kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Cooling goodies have arrived!


Step 1: buy an EFIDude (data logger) and get baselines on the street
http://picasaweb.google.com/filip.cr...DudeDataLogger





Step 2: buy the Mazsport cooling fan mod and get data

sorry forgot to take pics of it new-in-box

it was about 10 degrees cooler that day, but as you can see the before was at freeway speeds while the after was at a full stop and still much cooler



Step 3: brake ducting by Tripoint Engineering using Speesource/Mazdaspeed kit
http://picasaweb.google.com/filip.craciun/BrakeDucting


If you look at the web album you'll see the driver's side is routed differently because of the auto-leveling sensor...I think I'm just gonna have them remove it and re-do the ducting...what do you guys think?



Step 4: go to the track and get track-temp baseline (where the Mazsport mod won't do crap) -- going to Buttonwillow tomorrow!!!
http://www.redlinetrackevents.com/event_mazfest_08.htm




Step 5: buy a REmedy water pump, install it and get new data
http://picasaweb.google.com/filip.cr...EmedyWaterPump





Step 6: buy a BHR radiator, install it and get new data
http://picasaweb.google.com/filip.craciun/BHRRadiator

It's beautiful Ray...thanks!



I will post before and after data logs in .dat and .csv format each time I go to the track...I will only install the radiator first, then track the car, then install the water pump and track it again...I'll try to go to Buttonwillow each time, but not sure I'll be able to...might throw an autocross in there, not sure yet.

Hopefully by the end of summer we'll all have a better idea if the radiator and water pump yield positive results at the track. I'm sure they are benefitial on the street, as the Mazsport cooling fan mod has already shown.

EDIT: I've switched the order of the radiator and water pump mods.

Rotary__Rocket

these are all the mod i am going to do for the summer
please keep us updated..thanks in advance

p.s. i bought a mazsport cooling mod, but it didnt make it on time, and i am going to willow spring on monday =(

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

nice ---we await
olddragger

Schimmle

Subscribed. I can't wait!

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Had a really fun day at Buttonwillow!
Two of my friends joined me (along with my girlfriend), one in a stock Lotus Exige, the other in a stock BMW 135i.
It was my first time at the track and we ran configuration 13 CCW.

I clocked a 2:22.038.
I'm (4a) on the timesheets.
Nothing to brag about but a good starting point.
At least I clocked the best time of the day between the three of us.




I collected lots of data for the cooling quest.
The car definitely overheated and spilled a little coolant, so this serves as a perfect baseline to compare future track days against.
The highest temp I got was 240.8 F!




Here's a link to the Picasa album: http://picasaweb.google.com/filip.cr...12Buttonwillow

I am also uploading two lap videos to the Picasa album (each in 2 parts)...they will be at the end of the album. The first pair is RX8 vs. 135i. The second pair is just a clean lap where I don't run into any traffic.

The .dat files and .csv files are too large to attach here. Where should I go for free file hosting??

Enjoy!

swoope

iTrader: (5)

this was before the installation of the h20 pump and rad?

beers

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

good thread kinchu . These are the mods i'm thinking about as well (except for the Mazsport fan mod ) so look forward to seeing how you get on ......

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Yes, this is sort of a "baseline"...before the radiator and water pump...the only cooling mod is Mazsport cooling fan control kit which shouldn't have much of an effect at the track where the fans woudl already be at full speed anyway.

The coolant is 30/70 (if I recall correctly) with 1 bottle of Water Wetter.

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!
I wanna post up the EFIDude logs...do you know a trustworthy and free file bank site?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

wow,

we have a lot of stuff in common..

i am amazed that you got to 240 with the cooling mod! what was the air temp.. how long were the sessions?

btw, like the brake stuff!

beers

Spin9k

Great project...will be looking forward to the results, esp the water pump, and brake ducts. I have a set of ducts myself but hadn't figured out how to run the tubing so never installed. I'm interested in (details and pics inside bay and in wheel well of) how you run both sides / what you use for tubing and any temp changes obtained. With my current thru-the-front-wheelwell ducts I never exceed upper 300s tracking as measured after a session.

I've seen 234 deg engine temps from my dude on track w/80deg ambient and was getting a bit of overflow as well. But a question...do you have the front lower appearance pkg or the oem std black undertrim? My thought is the OEM is better (more) cooling area than with the appearance pkg as I never in the preceeding 3.5 yrs had any issues until I put that on. Not really sure but it's all I can come up with so just a thought.

Also have the RB race flash, so fans are on sooner, but I haven't noticed anything really, and it won't help on track anyway, you can only cool as much as you can cool, thermostat allowing. Love to get a lower temp thermostat if I could ever find one.

altiain

iTrader: (3)

A lower temp thermostat really isn't going to help on the track. All it does is open the t-stat at a lower tmeperature. On the track you're running hot enough that the OEM t-stat is fully open already, so a lower temp one won't make a difference.

If you live in a warm climate, you could potentially remove the t-stat altogether. This removes a big restriction in the flow to the radiator (the t-stat). The downside is that you'll always be pushing coolant through the radiator, but in a hot climate that shouldn't matter. Alternately, you could remove the t-stat before heading to the track and reinstall it once you get back home.

altiain

iTrader: (3)

kinchu007, that brings up a good point. If you're interested, you could datalog two different sessions at the same track day, one with the t-stat in place, one with it removed, and see if that has any impact on peak coolant temps. Unlike some of the other mods you're planning to test, this one is free and easily reversible.

NgoRX8

iTrader: (1)

nice experiment. i need to look toward a cooling quest as well.. haha

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

I wind her out all the way to redline every time. I'm still working on trying to shift at 8500 instead as I really don't see a benefit in going to 9k. Other people have pointed this out and I agree with them that it just creates heat for no reason.

The air temp was right around 100. It got to 104 at one point according to my trusty Mazda amb. temp digital display



I did get a sort of baseline rotor temp at Laguna Seca a couple months ago. I was running just over 300 in the front after the cool down lap (seems low to me).

But I'm not sure when I'll be at Laguna Seca again. It's very far and very $$$$. For now I'll just have to use rotor/pad wear and warpage as the best indicator as that's what really matters in the long run anyway. And in that area it's "so far so good" as I didn't warp the rotors this time around like I did at Laguna Seca. I also switched from Axxis Ultimates to Engless CCX in the front which helped a lot.

Sorry I couldn't be more scientific about the ducting before/after.



Do you have a link to a DIY for thermostat removal? If it looks easy I'd be willing to try it.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Sugest you pm mazda maniac before you try taking out the thermostat . May not be a good idea - something to do with water bypassing back to engine instead of going through the rad .

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

altiain

iTrader: (3)

Care to share a link? Water should only bypass back to the engine when the t-stat is closed. What you're suggesting doesn't make any sense.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

have a read of this altain

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=267

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=268

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Tripoint have tried another go at the whole thing and although it looked very promising at first...



it just didn't work out. As soon as they put the car on the ground, the control arm crushed the aluminum piece, as evidenced in the pics. Total carnage!



RX-8: 1! Aluminum Duct: 0!

They have found a solution which they are implementing now, wherein the aluminum piece runs underneath the CV boot, so hopefully part 3 will be successful. Will post pics of it tomorrow when I get the car back.

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Here is part 3...



Hopefully this will work...I will take a closer look when I pick the car up tomorrow.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Thats a lot of ducting man--you having that much heat/problems with braking?
OD

Spin9k

I think the answer is to ring up the SpeedSource guys and see how they do the ducting.

Razz1

You can not compare your first post.

10 degrees cooler will account for the difference.

have you ever taken a statistics class?

kinchu007

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, unfortunately I blue-ed my stock rotors then warped a set of Centric Premiums (Stoptech blanks). I could work on my braking, but I'd rather just do the ducting. It really seemed to help at Buttonwillow to have it.


Yeah, if this incarnation doesn't work I will do just that.


Can you please explain what you mean? I feel like I'm in trouble all of a sudden. I have lots and lots of EFIDude data by now for street driving and it's very consistent. The fans going at full speed will keep the car at or around 218 all day long with street driving. It's obvious that at the track heat soak occurs and that's why temps have reached over 240. This makes sense, think about it. Cooling system only shows it's weakness when it cannot keep temps below 240 (the point where the stock gauge starts moving up).

EDIT: According to MM, the point where the stock temp gauge starts moving is actually 231F...I'm sure he's right...sorry about the error