Sammytcl, would really like to see a list of your mods.




I'm curious about this. What mix were you running in your radiator before?

For racing, I think many would think to go just distilled water and 2 or 3 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter.

 

70/30 distiilled water/ coolant and one bottle of redline w/w. I just switched to the dei radiator coolant. I also put it in my a/w inter cooler---no more foam probs. It has a different inconsistency than redline/rp and the rest i have seen. i also have the mazmart water pump.
olddragger

 

I have zero foaming/bubbling/overflow since switching to Evans NPG-R

I'm not FI either, but I had the problem prior and so does everyone else regardless

 

GReddy turbo Kit with custom cold air intake
Custom wastegate vacuum re-route
Synapse Blow-Off Valve
GReddy oil pan
Mazsport Interceptor-X EMS
Race pipe (catalytic converter deleted)
HKS Hi-Power Exhaust
Koyo radiator
Mazsport cooling fan kit
ARC racing coolant
Lightweight racing battery relocated to trunk
Apexi ground system
Cusco oil catch tank
Mazsport Ignition Solution
Idemitsu 20w50 turbo rotary synthetic engine oil
Idemitsu racing rotary premix
Mazdaspeed rotary-shaped engine oil cap
Autopower 4-point roll cage
Mazdaspeed front strut brace
Custom 6-point front strut brace
Autoexe lower sub-frame braces
Mazdaspeed rear strut brace
JIC rear strut brace
Tanabe front and rear sway bars
Beat Rush Transmission & Differential Mounts
Tein Flex coilovers with Electronic Damping Force Controller
Front Brembo 4-piston big brake kit
Rear Project Mu 2-piece SRC-Pro brake rotors
Project Mu B-Force rear pads
Wedsport TC105N 18x9.5 +35 Front & Rear
Toyo R-88 265-35-18 front & rear
VIS v-speed carbon fiber hood
RE-Amemiya carbon fiber front spoiler with carnard
OEM side flairs with Carbon Fiber Overlay
Carbon fiber trunk
Carbon fiber adjustable rear wing spoiler
Carbon fiber MS rear diffuser
Custom front grill mod for more air to intercooler
Custom mod on front reinforcement for more air to intercooler
Recaro SPG with Bride seat mount
Personal steering wheel
Works Bell quick release
Boss steering wheel hub
Takata 5-point racing seat belt
Custom center gauge pod
Defi gauges (boost, oil temp, water temp)
JVC 7" DVD Unit
Blitz R-Vit DS Engine Data System
GReddy Pro-fec B Spec II boost controller
Innovate wide-band O2 gauge
Aspec titanium shift ****

 

what lightweight battery--i tried one but it seemed the electric power steering was pulling it down.
With all that bracing i bet that dang thing vibrates when you hit the rough!
Lol.
My Innovate gave it up in 1 and 1/2 days--what power source did you use?
olddragger

 

Thanks.

 

can't say i know anything, but woudn't a custom made water sprayer made to spray water on the radiators help alot during WOT?

 

Yes, it would! Some cars even have that, stock Of course there are some more practical ways of improving the cooling and not worrying about yet another fluid container to check..

 

Sure would, but then you have to figure out the extra weight you would be carrying around in the car with you, plus figure out the odds of it breaking and dumping water all around your tires, which would of course happen when you are in a high speed braking zone.

 

just add a water meth system
olddragger

 

Most people use Nitrous for that.

CO2 is cheaper but it will bog your engine if the intake sucks it in.

 

Any turbo rotary is going to be more difficult to keep cool on a road course. Do some research into what us RX7 guys do to manage heat and apply similar steps to the 8.

 

sorry to threadjack, but i've been trying to look into that product.
thats the moonshine waterless coolant...correct?
i have no idea why they call it moonshine. its not some alcoholic brew...

anyways, i understand its a waterless system. so is this more like a light oil type fluid, or some kind of super synthetic 100% ethylene glycol/propylene glycol mix?

what are the benefits other than (if its a propylene/ethylene glycol blend) that it can raise the boiling point. and being waterless, it won't contaminate or corrode metals and create a current draw with age...?

i'm pretty sure the cons with using this is that with higher boiling point, if you're not careful on temp monitoring, severe motor damage can occur if you overheat.
but what motor doesn't sustain damage when overheated?

thanks for ur input,
trochoid

 

I'm pretty sure the higher boiling point is a pro not a con. Sure you can get the coolant temps higher if you're not careful, and you don't want to be operating in those higher temps continuously, but at least the coolant is still liquid and taking heat away from the engine - giving you an extra "buffer" or time to back off.. Whereas once the coolant boils the heat transfer ability drops off sharply and you can say bye bye to your engine since all that extra heat has nowhere to go....

 

and dont run it in a street car---you dont need it.
OD

 

the temp you see on the gauge is simply the combined coolant temp, it's not representative to what the temperature is at some localized area, such as the hottest spot on the water jacket side of the rotor

by not boiling it stays in contact with this spot and helps carry the heat away, which will increase reliability and engine life

it may even exacerbate a coolant temp build-up issue in a sub-par heat exchanger system because of it's effectiveness, in the end it always comes down to how effective the radiator is, but the bottom line IMO is you're better off with it regardless in a comp/track car because again, the overall coolant temp is not indicative to what's actually happening at the water jacket surface

 

totally agree Team---if you are tracking etc its a good thing to have---we still even with the good water jacket design around the lead plugs, get the heat stress cracks in the housing around the lead plug hole. Since i do track and running a 70/30 ratio i have been thinking about this for the exact reasons you mention, but i havent decided yet.
Some people just think because this stuff doesnt boil etc then it is ok to run the engine at a hotter temp----wrong---dont do that. Speed Source backs totally off if their coolant temps get to 230F.
It is not just the radiator--although again i totally agree that it is the heart of the system, but it is also the placement and the amount of flow that can get through the radiator. That is somewhat of a problem for the 8. It is fixable.
Going to have to re-review your writeup on the Evans.
olddragger

 

SOme pics in this thread of track temps in an N/A car. Thats 239F.

 

I must be missing something. Water does not exist in liquid form over 212F, at that point it becomes steam. How are people getting readings of 220+?

 

Pressure.

 

Oh. Gotcha.

 

We can run the cooling system up to .9 BAR (over atmospheric) in stock for or even higher with a different rad cap (I use a 1.1 BAR cap).

So, at 1.1 BAR (over atmo), the boiling point of pure water is 250°F

 

Please excuse my physics and chemistry but I thought that water was incompressible? I'm sorry...we just got done learning this.