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note that the 5.1 isn’t listed in the description despite the title (the guy isn’t dumb 😉 ), but asking him about it is free, try not to get your hopes up though …
Made some headway on some logger stuff this week.. I'll do a proper post when it's actually all in car but I'm way too stoked on this to not post something.
So, logging data is easy. I have auto industry above standard CAN logging tools that I could just plug in to the vehicle, setup the laptop and off we go... buuuuuuuuuuut I wanted to make an autonomous logging system for the car that will always log when the car is on, and not take up room. tl;dr idiot proof so that when I am rushing around at the track, I don't have one more thing to forget about.
So Raspberry Pi it was. I already rocked one on my Subaru running off the shelf software with available drivers for cheap hardware. It just worked. Didn't have that for CAN... so I went experimenting with a few things. SocketCAN sucks, and I already had a Tactrix J2534 cable and some drivers I couldn't really ever get working.
Threw some python code together modifying some J2534 libs, and I got the dongle to communicate. I didn't have it polling though... so I went into the drivers, modified some C code, modified a lot of python.. and yeehaw we got it spitting data out.
Taking it a step further, being able to see info live on a screen is only so useful.. so I added some more code in to log it all into a format I can use my tools to review... it worked... way too well.
The end result for now, is basically cheap hardware that can log a full Mazda (and Subaru, I did test it on my GR STi) bus, and save the info to a file format I can use to professionally review. I need to add in a couple more things to handle errors, auto/start stop, log splitting and saving, status lights/etc, and some other housekeeping items but it's looking super rad so far. I will also want to hard mount this thing in a case I'll probably print out at some point too.
I also THINK I should be able to add some ECU PIDs and ABS module PIDs to the query and log list.. I just have no idea if the bandwidth of the Tactrix will be able to keep up.. we will see.
And now I have full access to my 10ms oil temp/pressure sensors I have on my display that I had thrown on the bus for this reason
So, I am still deciding how I want to do all of this, because integrating this stuff into something like a Solo or any "driver logger" is sort of tough. I think I want to keep all of this in the "car domain" and leave the driver logger in the "driver domain" out of sheer simplicity. Using both of those pieces of information separately, I can come to conclusions about driving and the car separately, and if need be.. resort to car data to sort out driver data and vice versa. In a perfect world, it would all be in the same device, in the same file, in the same time axis. Unfortunately, to get good driver data, you are spending a lot of money on a VBox or the like, which lacks in vehicle data. Right now I am heavy on the vehicle data with a bit of an engineering way to parse through data instead of an intuitive way. I'll figure out how to bridge that gap as time goes on.
But to answer your question:
I've got an accelerometer in my lap timer, which I can sync up to vehicle data manually if needed. The vehicle also has a lat G sensor, and a rate sensor.. which..I think contrary to older posts/findings IS on the vehicle CAN bus. If not, K line querying it is.
Having racing withdraws while we get pounded with some snow, so I stole someone else's video of their Track Mod E46 M3, and sync'd my in car with it. No idea why he kept going offline to brake, clearly you can see him braking before I am even off the gas in some places! Interesting perspective I had never seen before.
In regards to your issues with killing rear calipers.
I believe there are only 2 factories rebuilding the rear calipers in the aftermarket. One is Callahan/Powerstop and the other is Cardone and pretty much any you find are these or rebadged.
I had the same issues with Callahan/Powerstop calipers this passed year. They don't hold up. The Callahan calipers in my experience are typically painted gray, often with a sticky finish.
I think something fell off with quality this passed year either way, as I have used Powerstop calipers in prior years and they held up.
I have some of the Cardone calipers I am trying out at Chuckwalla in a few weeks, they have a tan glossy paint finish.
my deduction is the other car either has more lateral traction than yours or you’re simply not using the chosen line to full advantage
also that the wide line is not necessarily the fastest line if the speed gained is not sufficient relative to extra distance traveled
but mostly “seemed” like you weren’t really taking full advantage of the line being chosen, from the perspective of being a casual observer of a video.
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my deduction is the other car either has more lateral traction than yours or you’re simply not using the chosen line to full advantage
also that the wide line is not necessarily the fastest line if the speed gained is not sufficient relative to extra distance traveled
but mostly “seemed” like you weren’t really taking full advantage of the line being chosen, from the perspective of being a casual observer of a video.
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I'm 100% sure that's the case, first time at that track and I THINK this was the first session after only one session in the rain the day before?? Can't recall. I did run it a few times on my racing sim in a 350z though.
What I do recall is thinking this guy was gonna divebomb me every time he went off line to brake. You can actually see me checking mirrors in the last curve where he gets a bit slidy and then purposefully running wide assuming he was going for a dive. Fast and hard point by because I just wanted him gone at that point. He's in a track mod car, which is basically 2 classes up and should have lot more jam. I was definitely faster than him through plenty of twisty bits.. but yeah. He had the power.
I do also remember the car being quite bouncy at that track, which you can also see.
Dunno, it's cool, you don't typically get a good third person view of your racing.
So first time I stumbled across your thread, and first of all, its extremely inspiring seeing a average to poor condition (rust wise at least) rx8 performing so well for you. I am hoping I can also go the Copart route this spring and build a cheap car. But thats at the wife's discression since it would sit in our driveway all the time and I have another rx8 in the garage that just sits on jackstands.
Very cool seeing the electronics and 3D printing tech put into your processes. I am familiar with circuitry and basic board layout but you obviously have a great handle on it. 3D printing on the other hand I have been doing for a long time and am heavily involved with that hobby. Actually for your intake bracket cracking, infill increase may not add much for strength, but if you increase your outer wall thickness, use lower layer heights (0.10mm instead of 0.20mm) and bump temps up 10-20C you should have a much stronger part. You may know this already but just a friendly 3D printing tip.
Also I am curious to what sims you play? Would be great to play with someone if ever interested (really only ACC right now), it would also be cool to pick your brain a bit on getting a track-prepped rx8 build going.
Lastly your commentary in the thread is awesome. Its not just a progress update and self-made bullet list of stuff to do and done like most threads, keep it up.
So first time I stumbled across your thread, and first of all, its extremely inspiring seeing a average to poor condition (rust wise at least) rx8 performing so well for you. I am hoping I can also go the Copart route this spring and build a cheap car. But thats at the wife's discression since it would sit in our driveway all the time and I have another rx8 in the garage that just sits on jackstands.
Very cool seeing the electronics and 3D printing tech put into your processes. I am familiar with circuitry and basic board layout but you obviously have a great handle on it. 3D printing on the other hand I have been doing for a long time and am heavily involved with that hobby. Actually for your intake bracket cracking, infill increase may not add much for strength, but if you increase your outer wall thickness, use lower layer heights (0.10mm instead of 0.20mm) and bump temps up 10-20C you should have a much stronger part. You may know this already but just a friendly 3D printing tip.
Also I am curious to what sims you play? Would be great to play with someone if ever interested (really only ACC right now), it would also be cool to pick your brain a bit on getting a track-prepped rx8 build going.
Lastly your commentary in the thread is awesome. Its not just a progress update and self-made bullet list of stuff to do and done like most threads, keep it up.
Thank you for the kind words! Like I think I've mentioned about 1000 times, it's important for me (and I think everyone) to have a medium to reflect on the things they do, this is the way I do for all things RX-8 related.
The RX-8 was definitely worse off than I intended it to be, but accepting the fact it's never going to look like a minty fresh show car, nor a 100% thought out Grand AM/IMSA/etc car helps me get through the painfulness of how shitty it is, hah! I would definitely recommend Copart if you're after a cheapy car. Great deals to be had, even not not cheapy cars.
I think you're right on the money with the 3D printing advice. I also think me design just sucks ***, but it's super easy to just hit "go" on the printer instead of actually redesigning it. Not great, but I'll get to it eventually haha.
I've got Asseto Corsa I've used to get some local tracks, but I mainly race on iRacing. Been out of it for a bit lately with all my house projects and needing ANOTHER PC to run my VR setup. I've got plenty of graphics cards in my mining rig I could steal from, but I just haven't gotten another board together for it. I think the latest GRIDLIFE iRacing series may convince me to upgrade my general purpose desktop CPU and steal some components from that to put on another board though :D
If you're an iRacing person I would def reccomend some of the Gridlife series. Lots of fun to be had.
Small update, got some work done on the car that isn't a sunroof delete. Just me and some power tools bonding. Seized bushings on this car are no more! I'm happy I can finally adjust the camber and toe.
Bonus "Lift Incoming" post!
Got myself a Bendpak XPR-10S, should be good for 10,000lbs. Just checked my concrete and I've got 6 inches of it, so we are ready to go. Hoping to get the posts up next weekend.
Thank you for the kind words! Like I think I've mentioned about 1000 times, it's important for me (and I think everyone) to have a medium to reflect on the things they do, this is the way I do for all things RX-8 related.
The RX-8 was definitely worse off than I intended it to be, but accepting the fact it's never going to look like a minty fresh show car, nor a 100% thought out Grand AM/IMSA/etc car helps me get through the painfulness of how shitty it is, hah! I would definitely recommend Copart if you're after a cheapy car. Great deals to be had, even not not cheapy cars.
I think you're right on the money with the 3D printing advice. I also think me design just sucks ***, but it's super easy to just hit "go" on the printer instead of actually redesigning it. Not great, but I'll get to it eventually haha.
I've got Asseto Corsa I've used to get some local tracks, but I mainly race on iRacing. Been out of it for a bit lately with all my house projects and needing ANOTHER PC to run my VR setup. I've got plenty of graphics cards in my mining rig I could steal from, but I just haven't gotten another board together for it. I think the latest GRIDLIFE iRacing series may convince me to upgrade my general purpose desktop CPU and steal some components from that to put on another board though :D
If you're an iRacing person I would def reccomend some of the Gridlife series. Lots of fun to be had.
The 3D printing parameters are just in the slicer, not modiflying the actual 3D model. Super easy but I get it.
As for mining, yeah I wish I didn't sell my setup back in 2017, dumb dumb move.
I only play maybe once a week, but am on ACC (Assett Corsa Competizione) couldn't handle the cost of getting into iRacing. Currently 3D printing a racing wheel for my cheap *** setup actually.
I'll keep watching the thread. Your garage / barn setup makes me extremely jealous. Some day.
Small update/question.. been too cold to make more progress on the sunroof delete panel, and I've already gassed my house once by putting down a gel coat on the sunroof, so it was promptly moved outside. hah.. but I noticed this the other day when the thought of roof bracing came up. When I swapped out the roof skin on my Impreza for a non sunroof skin (years ago) I had to add in 3 support bars that weren't present on the sunroof models as the sunroof acted as a brace.
Looked at the Mazda parts, and what do ya know.. an extra brace.
Looking at the sunroof, it definitely is pretty flimsy.. so I am wondering if this is just a support structure to be able to secure the non-sunroof roof into the place, or if it's actually a structural part. The bends in the metal make it sure seem like it is to me, but I am a software guy.
Going back to my Impreza example, two of the 3 roof bars were just there to support the roof skin, and only one was truly added chassis stiffening. From all of the sunroof delete posts I could find on the forum/internet it didn't seem like anyone has done much to add in extra bracing when removing the sunroof assembly. I am wondering if this is something I should be concerned about?
My first thought is no.. but my second thought is that is would be pretty simple to create a small aluminum brace to bolts into the gusset plates where the sunroof assembly does, so maybe worth the evening to toss something in??
Small update/question.. been too cold to make more progress on the sunroof delete panel, and I've already gassed my house once by putting down a gel coat on the sunroof, so it was promptly moved outside. hah.. but I noticed this the other day when the thought of roof bracing came up. When I swapped out the roof skin on my Impreza for a non sunroof skin (years ago) I had to add in 3 support bars that weren't present on the sunroof models as the sunroof acted as a brace.
Looked at the Mazda parts, and what do ya know.. an extra brace.
Looking at the sunroof, it definitely is pretty flimsy.. so I am wondering if this is just a support structure to be able to secure the non-sunroof roof into the place, or if it's actually a structural part. The bends in the metal make it sure seem like it is to me, but I am a software guy.
Going back to my Impreza example, two of the 3 roof bars were just there to support the roof skin, and only one was truly added chassis stiffening. From all of the sunroof delete posts I could find on the forum/internet it didn't seem like anyone has done much to add in extra bracing when removing the sunroof assembly. I am wondering if this is something I should be concerned about?
My first thought is no.. but my second thought is that is would be pretty simple to create a small aluminum brace to bolts into the gusset plates where the sunroof assembly does, so maybe worth the evening to toss something in??
Anyone have any insight/opinions?
I'd definitely put something in its place IMO, Shouldn't be too difficult and the pillar design is why the rx'8 has such a rigid chassis. Mind as well not compromise their design.
It’s braced, just differently to account for the sunroof. You could maybe argue it being stiffer even, but I’m not suggesting it is. Just that it’s a much more extensive amount of bracing based on appearance. So the sunroof panel itself didn’t need to be any stiffer than necessary with it being supported fully.
I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to put another brace bar across the opening after sealing it, but whether it’s needed or not likely depends on how rigid the filler panel and it’s mounting is.
I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to put another brace bar across the opening after sealing it, but whether it’s needed or not likely depends on how rigid the filler panel and it’s mounting is
The filler panel will be made by me, so we can assume a 0 add to stiffness haha. Roll bar may also help.. however definitely bracing in different location.. :shrug:
I'll see what I can make. I think I have some aluminum that's really close to the right length/width to bolt on to those guusets for the sunroof.
Anyone else made a brace for their sunroof delete?
Did you consider an aluminum sheet metal panel the same basic shape as the opening, but with a slightly larger perimeter, drilled, and riveted to the exterior? It would be a little aero disturbance, but fairly minor imo. I saw one like this on an FC RX7 and it made a lot of sense to me rather than trying to fill the hole and seal it that way. I think that one had a thin gasket that made it stick up a little higher, but I’d just get a heavy-duty industrial silicone sealer/glue and use that to seal it instead.
Did you consider an aluminum sheet metal panel the same basic shape as the opening, but with a slightly larger perimeter, drilled, and riveted to the exterior? It would be a little aero disturbance, but fairly minor imo. I saw one like this on an FC RX7 and it made a lot of sense to me rather than trying to fill the hole and seal it that way. I think that one had a thin gasket that made it stick up a little higher, but I’d just get a heavy-duty industrial silicone sealer/glue and use that to seal it instead.
That's my backup plan for when my carbon fiber insert plan fails miserably
12-04-2021, 01:05 PM
