Fan mod - track test
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Fan mod - track test
The following chart shows two track sessions of about 14mins each . In the first session both fans were on full for the whole time . In the second session both fans were turned on at 98deg C and off at stock Mazda switch point . Ambient temp was about 18deg C and the track is a very high speed one with a long straight where I was reaching up to 225km/hr .
Note how much longer the temps take to rise when the fans are always on and the highest temp reached is approx. 2-3 deg less .
Relevant cooling info :
running redline water wetter and antifreeze at approx 15%
20% Underdrive pulley
Synthetic oil
piggyback ems with afrs around 13
Note how much longer the temps take to rise when the fans are always on and the highest temp reached is approx. 2-3 deg less .
Relevant cooling info :
running redline water wetter and antifreeze at approx 15%
20% Underdrive pulley
Synthetic oil
piggyback ems with afrs around 13
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Red Devil , yes I'm controlling them with my piggyback .....
In hindsight I should have done the second test with the fans disconnected all together . That would really have shown the difference .
In hindsight I should have done the second test with the fans disconnected all together . That would really have shown the difference .
nice! validates what we have been saying all along, the damn radiator is at too much on a angle and too much stuff right behind it to flow good without some assistance
Nice work!
Olddragger
Nice work!
Olddragger
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
if the radiator is oriented at a smaller angle it would then have less area/volume all else being equal, that will hurt more than it will help
the real issue is that it doesn't have enough volume for it's given area to sustain continuous WOT situations. It needs to be much thicker (increased volume, lower fluid velocity, more time for fluid to disperse heat to the outer surfaces), which is addressed with the Mazda Motorsports radiator.
the real issue is that it doesn't have enough volume for it's given area to sustain continuous WOT situations. It needs to be much thicker (increased volume, lower fluid velocity, more time for fluid to disperse heat to the outer surfaces), which is addressed with the Mazda Motorsports radiator.
What if it was vertical? and had a relocation kit that would move it up front more? if you can that is.
it would have a much better flow---also would help if all the "stuff" behind it could be removed. It also helps a little to remove the front bucktooth on the airdam and to NOT use screens.
all said and done on a 80F day normal suburb driving coolant temps 180F, oil temps at 165F I have the rb flash that turns on the fan early and the mazmart water pump.
Of course all of that is about to change.
OD
all said and done on a 80F day normal suburb driving coolant temps 180F, oil temps at 165F I have the rb flash that turns on the fan early and the mazmart water pump.
Of course all of that is about to change.
OD
^Thank you.
So how do I ditch this?

Its under the intake box. I'm going to take off my front bumper and see what I can ditch next weekend.
So how do I ditch this?

Its under the intake box. I'm going to take off my front bumper and see what I can ditch next weekend.
Last edited by DOMINION; Oct 28, 2007 at 01:22 AM.
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