TheColonel

Forgot to say...

If you end up really liking drag racing, by all means don't sell the 8. Go pick yourself up a cheap Z28 or Trans AM for drag racing. You can build massive power for very little money. My father has an '02 Z28 that we pumped up to around 400hp for well under $2000. Just avoid the entire 3rd generation of those cars, though. The changing emissions laws and the gas prices killed the power on them for years.

adrian-1

Yup, Reaction time has nothing to do with ET. example: My reaction was 1.3sec and my ET was 13.6mph (turbo'd 8).
Reation time is important in bracket racing.

Hornet

It's not entirely hopeless! You could try to find out exactly what RX8PR did to his and what his buddy did too! The last numbers I saw him quote him and his friend's are over 300whp on the Renesis. The only thing is I believe there is some custom work involved with them getting those numbers so it would more than likely be kinda expensive to duplicate what he did! Here is a link but to find his most recent numbers is going to take some digging since the thread is over 25 pages!

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/first-rx8-puerto-rico-greddy-273hp-53002/


*Edit: Actually I just looked at the thread and Manuel's latest numbers are on page 25 but you still will probably have to dig for his friends numbers which were higher than his!

gh0st

as far as i can recall, i think everyone with 280+ whp renesis cars have all had traction problems or were inexperienced at drag racing. we really dont know what the car can do with current max tuning potential.

denward

Hornet

That can be said for a lot of cars with that kind of power (think lbs per hp). I'm sure people have trouble at first with a lot of the more powerful V8s at least till they figure it out. It's probably moreso the drivers needing time to adjust to the extra power! I guess wheel hop could be a problem too since people get it stock!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ok guys-- like the name implies---i have a LITTLE experience with this. Would you believe a sub 14 sec 1/4 with a n/a, non nitrous rx 8?
1st requirement--practice (as said RT does not equel E.T. but it sure wins races)
2- gearing and unsprung weight )if lucky can get the 4.77 OR go with a 225 (or thereabouts)/35 17" tire or even better- BOTH), light rims, light flywheel, etc, dont forget to pu the skinniest(much less rolling resistance) tires/wheels you can find on the front (and careful on the braking) expect to be in 4th gear at the finish line(lots of shifting!)
3- get good exhaust( catless system) (turbo x looks promising)
4- Revi intake
5- If you have the money get the Interceptor and TUNE, if you are just drag racing and don't have that much get the CZ and TUNE
6- at least put the rb sway bar on the back as it really helps with the wheel hop.

get all that an you will have a car capable of a sub 14.
Now drop a 55-75 shot nitrous(since you are tuning anyway) and you can break 13!
let the discussion begin.
olddragger

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You forgot a couple Mr Dragger

7 - good shocks properly tuned, launch traction & wheel hop is largely dependent on effective suspension damping

8 - loose as much static weight as possible; racing seats can be worth 40 - 50#, header & midpipe/hi-flow cat & straightpipe rear can get you over 50#, RacingBrake BBK is 24#, plus some of the other stuff you already listed/implied

9 - spare parts, clutch/transmission/differential, especially with big sticky rear rubber

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Mr Team,
Agreed-- if available get a 90/10 shocks for the front(to keep the wgt transferred) and 10/90's in the rear--but then again traction is not a BIG problem for this car. I havent seen really bad wheel hop with the stock set up and heavier rear bar.
On the weight issue you can also remove the rear seats 25#, chunk the battery and buy at braille --approx 10-15#,take off the a/c belt--
it all depends where you want to stop.
Spare parts---yep--especially since this car wasn't really designed for the strip. Dont know how much the diff /shaft/axles /trans or clutch can take.
rotor on
olddragger

Avalonstar

Thanks for the tips guys, I'm starting to build a list of what to buy... but unfortunately, some mods, like the REVi, are illegal in California - and I don't want to go through that whole thing of risking my car getting a ticket for not being emmisions legal.

Since this might be my only time at the strip, I'm looking for mods that'll help me in the everyday as well. Things like taking out my rear seats are sort of out of the question... I mean, it's seems like so much work for only one day of drag racing... but then again, I haven't done this before.

adrian-1

rear seats are easy and take 5mins tops.... bottom pads snap right up, back rests have 2 screws each.
I may take mine out next time I go to the strip.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

yep then you can see the gas tanks you are sitting on top of!
Aval--look up stock intake mods. do a search. it's pretty easy to do a cai from the stock setup. some helpful hits like taking out one screen in the intake system etc. without tuning though this is going to be a low 14 sec car.
Also change trans/dift fluids to red line ot royal purple synthetics. point on the weight-- do as much as you can-- i have seen people forget to take the jack and tow hooks out --that along removes about 10lbs.
good luck man and be careful---main thing is to have FUN with it. You will win some and you will loose some.
Merry Christmas all
olddragger

Razz1

I have yet to see a BBK that weighs less than stock.

Can you direct us to the manufacturer?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you just missed out on the pre-sale for 1/3 off

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-25/looking-2-piece-brake-rotors-76063/

IZoomZoomI

The intake looks relatively stock if you pop your hood up. The intake is really subtle in terms of sound, so it won't give them any cause to pull you over. If you have a catless exhaust then I be bit worried. But an intake mod is the least of you worries.

Crazy Rx-8 Driver

R/T only matters when you are in Bracket racing or 'heads' up racing.

when the light turns green and your tires begin to move off of the pads is your R/T (reaction to the light)


the MOST important times on your time slip is your 60 ft time. high 1.8's to low 2.0's will yield you a solid 14 second run. when light turns green till you cross the 60ft mark.

if you get 2.1-2.4 land... you'll be in the 15 second world.

the next important number is your MPH. this is your TRUE track time. if you run a 110MPH with 17secs... does this mean you have a 17 sec car? no.. you have a 110mph car on the 1/4 mile.


your E/T is measured once you launch. Most tracks you can sit there when the light turns green and not move and you'll still get a nice time... however.. it will effect your 60ft time and R/T.



so put it all together you want the best times for everything.

low 60ft time.
high MPH,
low E/T
**during heads up** low R/T






**** huge advice for rookies on the track****
DO NOT WARM UP YOUR STREET TIRES!!!!

they are not slicks. so they do not need to be warmed up. it will only cause you to slip at your launch.

just drive around the burnout pit and just launch it like usual at 5k