idriverx8

Question#1
How much is the most people have been able to get?
Question#2
For auto cross what are people finding to be the best (fastest)alignment settings?

fastmike

We got almost 1 neg in front.
Left front is where the problem is with Shelbi's car.
Right front could get neg 1.5 and rears have a huge range.
Don't know what the fastest is yet.
We went back to the stock front bar and Mazdaspeed shocks.
Kinda a nice setup.
FM

Splan8

Legoken on here is firstplace inbstock in his local region. He is running stock alignment which in his case iszero up front and about 2 in the rear.

Stock everything else.


I have 1.4 in back and about 1.0 up front, I'll push a bit, but it's got the RB sways and springs.

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

Must be nice... -.8 front.

idriverx8

Wow I have -1.5 on all 4. I was going to try for more up front but it looks like Im probably maxed out(and lucky to where im at). I have the Racing Beat front sway with stock endlinks.

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

I hope with a few more miles on it we will see it gain a bit more... I think it had about 500 miles when we did it. I hope the koni has less gas pressure and that could also let it down a bit. On the other hand this car has almost exactly the same alingment as my C4 did, it worked ok.

fastmike

I played around while the car was on the rack and found out that the front gains alot of camber as the steering wheel turns..I forget our caster setting.
Suspension is NOT like my TT7 though which I can sorta lose caster to gain camber.
I have not realigned since Mazdaspeed shocks so I don't know where we are at now but it should be about the same but don't know about gas pressures stock shocks to MSpeed.
Shebli was in the car during alignment.
I am fatter so probably could of gained a little camber in that left front with me in it.
Not much you can do with pulling on things since both upper and lower front arms are mounted on one frame.
FM

John V

iTrader: (1)

But I'm guessing that your C4 had a much different camber curve at least in the back. Front may have been similar - don't know the geometry of the C4's front wishbones. Didn't the C4 have two trailing links in the back? I wouldn't think there would be a lot of camber gain through compression with that suspension. And with the C4 your alignment settings were probably biased towards being able to put down power early, whereas with the RX-8 that is not as much of a problem given the lack of torque.

Hopefully clyde will pop in here and answer the original poster, but all I know is that we need less camber in the back. We were fast this past weekend at our local test 'n tune but it rained and the V710s were never above room temperature.

Imp

What is the minimum camber we can have in the rear? I haven't been under the car yet to play with it.

--kC

John V

iTrader: (1)

I don't know either KC but there should be a large range. The eccentric bolt on the lower arm has a big fat cam on it. It wouldn't surprise me if you could get almost zero camber back there, not that you would want it. Our car is already lively on WOT coming out of corners and through slaloms, but I think it's because we have too MUCH negative camber - enough that the rear contact patch is greatly reduced.

JV

edj

I was only able to get -0.8 deg. negative camber on the front.

But it looks like the fronts gain 0.1 camber for each 1 deg of wheel angle turn,
at least for the first 4 degrees...hopefully that continues for the rest of the turn...

John V

iTrader: (1)

It should. The camber gain through wheel travel is determined by the caster angle which is fixed.

clyde

Caster is adjustable. I'll have to check, but I think that it was last set to 6.75 deg.

Front camber is interesting. There seems to be a lot of variation. I've seen or heard things for everywhere from about -0.7 max to about -1.6 max. rx8club member bmc was, IIRC, able to get -1.5 on his first alignment but only -1.0 on his second.

I don't know what I would have been able to get with the OEM shocks, but I was able to get -1.4 (give or take) after the Konis went on. Better than some, but certainly nothing special. And for anyone that's missed my previous posts about it, the protoype Yellows on my car dropped the ride height by about 11mm.

I meant to ask Barbara at the San Diego Tour what she was able to get with the Koni 28s, but it slipped my mind. It looked like her car was riding a bit higher than Jason's, but I don't think I saw them next to each other. If you're reading, Barbara...please feel free to chime in. :D

John V

iTrader: (1)

What I meant by "fixed" was that it was not something that changed through suspension or steering movement. But yeah, more caster equals more camber gain through steering rotation.

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

I think Barbara told me she went from like -1 to -1.4 after the shocks.

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the C4 only had about 5 caster and gained no camber on the way down, the bright guys at GM call it zero scrub, Same for the rear no gain. We hand -1 front and -2.5 rear. As far as power down it would pick up a front tire out of the corner. I sure miss tq.

Dark8

Won't help you BS'ers but here is what I'm running in STU:

Camber -1.5F/-1.5R
Toe 0 F/0 R
Caster 7 deg

That is with JIC coilovers and a >1.5" drop. There is still some room for more -camber on the front. Seems real neutral with -1.5 all around. I ran -1.7F and -1.0R last year and the car was just too tail happy.

legokcen

Wow, I actually got mentioned here by someone else. I haven't changed anything, but I've got -2 in the rear. The fronts are about 0.

Kurt Bob

Way to go Lego, you've "arrived"!

I'm in STU class with RB suspension. I'm running -1.5 degrees all around, with 6.6 degress caster. It seems pretty neutral. The funny thing is though, with my new Kumho MX's it is harder to find the car's limits. But that's OK too! :D