Loki

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

Question I'm asking myself: given the stock brake force balance, does it make sense to go with lower performance brake pads in the rear? I'm looking at running something like DTC60 in the front and HP+ or DTC 30 (if I can find them) in the rear (at the track).

Up till now I've run HP+ front and back and I like the resulting even brake distribution (i.e. the rear is doing the right among of work for me). So, with higher performance pads, would you recommend going with different pads, or just DTC60 all around?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

The rear choices you listed would typically be considered too extreme of a difference. DTC-30 will come in much sooner than DTC-60 and will wear fast at those higher asphalt track temps. HT-10 would be considered more usual with DTC-60 on the front. Some might even use DTC-60 on the rear too depending on the situation, or HT14/HT10 or DTC-70/DTC-60 combinations.

There are some old threads here on the same subject ...

bulletproof21

ive been using the DTC-60 front HT-10 rear for a couple years now and cant wait for the rears to wear out so I can go back to DTC-60's front and rear. I get tail wiggle under extreme braking that I dont like and didnt get so much with the same compound on both ends.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I run DTC-60 front and rear and have liked the result.

I ran HT-10 in the rear for a while with DTC-60 in the front...and really didn't notice much if any difference when I went to the 60's front and rear

Loki

iTrader: (1)

This is exactly what I noticed when I ran HP+ front and HPS rear and was trying to avoid. Will go with 60s all around. Thanks!

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I'm running the same compound F&R too (different brand) I prefer it over a bias

TANKERG

There is a possibility that it's not your brakes and that it's you. In those conditions the slightest movement of the steering wheel while you are bracing yourself can cause that. Try having the lightest grip/touch on the wheel while braking and don't use your arms to brace yourself and see if it goes away.

When I have that problem, I open my hand and palm the wheel and the car tracks straight.

Redshift

iTrader: (2)

I've always run the same compound front and rear. I find the car has a decent bias stock, so why over think it?

127 T-Rx8

I love my RX8. I have to change the brake pads soon and wanted to upgrade so I can use them for a solo/autocross event. What would you recommend? I have not made any changes to the car yet. Thank you for your help.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

There is no single answer, depends on skill level, tires, how much you like dust, etc. research.

sblethen

iTrader: (3)

I assume you have ABS still hooked up. If you do THAT is your brake bias. No need to try and out think it. Also note that brakes work in different temp ranges better. That is the only reason to change pads. Mazda already figured this out (just like most engineers) and made the rear brakes smaller. If your really using the brakes then you should get pretty good temps front to rear.

So in short you really should have the same pads front to rear, if your using a less aggressive pad on the rear your over working the fronts and not maximizing your opportunity.

I have spoken directly with hawk and the dtc-60 is the way to go. If your racing and getting the temps needed to make them work. They also Lasted the entire 12hr at NJ turning 1:34-1:36 lap times on street tires.

Stephen

PS: I get my pads through Andrew racing. Good guy, a racer, and located down the street from hawk in Ohio. Tell him I sent you. (No he doesn't sponsor me, but he always gets what I need fast!)

sblethen

iTrader: (3)

Oh and andrew racing helped create that chart above, they can give you a recommendation on what pad to use.

kbrewmr2

Hawk HPS is what I'd try if I was in your shoes. Mild upgrade over stock, bit better heat capacity enough to be "ok" on track (at least for me), but not so overkill as to suck on the street or suck ice cold at the start of an autox run.

YMMV though.

etzilon

Very interesting, sblethen... No issues trail braking, etc? I have been using Cobalt Friction but might use some contingency buddy bucks and switch to DTC60s all around.

sblethen

iTrader: (3)

No issues at all. Without the abs and Hoosiers you need to be careful not to lock up a tie. With abs hammer on them! (We use the abs with the street tires) only real issue not discussed its the rotors take a beating. After 1 session you will start to see heat cracks.

Stephen

etzilon

Got it. I run aftermarket discs so that should help. For NASA, discs is a free mod (calipers are not).

Thanks!

Loki

iTrader: (1)

So I couldn't find rear DTC60s in time for last weeekend, so went with DTC60 front, HT10 rear. LOVE love love the combination, the modulation response is fantastic, and speaking as a heavy trail braker, it was appreciated :P

Will try 60's in the rear when the 10's wear out, probably in a month or so.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

etzilon

You go through a set of rear brake pads in one month? I must not be braking enough.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Loki

iTrader: (1)

My 2 local tracks are hard on brakes: Saint-Eustache and Mont-Tremblant. Maybe I lied, the rears should last more than a month, but based on the 2 days I've done so far, I don't think they'll make it to September.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Running with DSC not fully disengaged would result in faster rear pad wear, but I'd hope you wouldn't be running with it not fully turned off using those pads

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You will be surprised how long they will last. They are orders of magnitude better that HP+ or other street/track compromise pads. I got 6 days or about 20 hours out of the 60's last set

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Alright, how about I report back on this thread when the fronts and rears run out.
One thing I forgot to mention: my club requires more than 50% pad at the start of any event, so 'finished' to me comes much earlier. It's kind of annoying, but we do catch people trying to go on without a safe margin of material on the pads. Had one guy with some fancy Mercedes talking smack until we realized his OE brake pads had 1 mm left. He wasn't happy.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

That's a stupid rule for the most part...but if you have even 1/3 left they will likely pass cause it's difficult to tell how much they started with

It's a rule that is for people that don't do there own maintenance.....like the Mercedes guy

TANKERG

What can happen when you don't check your pad thickness.