lol seafoam
BearBlasterExtraordinair!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 731
Likes: 3
From: Haughton, Louisiana
anyone's car ever completely died after doing the seafoam n the next day it was fine?? i seafoamed it last summer n read the instructions step by step and followed it to the letter, then i drove it after 30mins n it stalled n shut off at a stop. ihad to push my car 5 blocks to my house lol, luckily the next day it was better now its just fine, n u feel the difference...
the other yellow meat
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 19
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so you guys stand by your sea foams and it works? i never had to do that to my pistons and i've never even heard of it until i got in this forum. i'm so relunctant to try, especially since I couldn't find it in the owners manual that this was recommended. oh well, i'll give it a world this week.
BearBlasterExtraordinair!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 731
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From: Haughton, Louisiana
It makes sense if you think about it. The side seals get stuck with a lot of carbon. Reving the car can only do so much. Using Seafoam gets rid of the gunk stuck in there.
It's kind of one of those things that nobody can really prove without a teardown before, putting it back together, doing it, and tearing it back down. But I'm pretty sure it's a good thing, with how much my car smoked after. Carbon is the enemy of the Renesis after all, and I burned a lot of it out yesterday.
It's kind of one of those things that nobody can really prove without a teardown before, putting it back together, doing it, and tearing it back down. But I'm pretty sure it's a good thing, with how much my car smoked after. Carbon is the enemy of the Renesis after all, and I burned a lot of it out yesterday.
so you guys stand by your sea foams and it works? i never had to do that to my pistons and i've never even heard of it until i got in this forum. i'm so relunctant to try, especially since I couldn't find it in the owners manual that this was recommended. oh well, i'll give it a world this week.
Mazda offers a service/kit that you can have them do or do it yourself. It called Zoom power cleaner and it's basically the same thing.
https://www.rx8club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142852
I have only done it once on my car in 124,000 miles. granted this motor only has 28k on it but hardly any smoke at all came out. I just did it for ***** and giggles because grungepup was doing it.
But This motor has been SOHN injecting 2 stroke, premixing, is never driven cold, and is red lined often all since day one so carbon should not be an issue.
I have only done it once on my car in 124,000 miles. granted this motor only has 28k on it but hardly any smoke at all came out. I just did it for ***** and giggles because grungepup was doing it.
But This motor has been SOHN injecting 2 stroke, premixing, is never driven cold, and is red lined often all since day one so carbon should not be an issue.
But This motor has been SOHN injecting 2 stroke, premixing, is never driven cold, and is red lined often all since day one so carbon should not be an issue.
I want to do this with a few of the guys that live out by me. 3-4 of us all at once with no wind, we would have the fire department down there in no time.
Video of my first time
Video of my first time
I want to do this with a few of the guys that live out by me. 3-4 of us all at once with no wind, we would have the fire department down there in no time.
Video of my first time
[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7kRx-WWDvc"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7kRx-WWDvc[url]
Video of my first time
[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7kRx-WWDvc"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7kRx-WWDvc[url]
Registered
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 287
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From: Altoona, Pa
I recommend that anyone that is planning on seafoaming, read through my before-and-after picture thread for what is actually happening inside your engine when you seafoam, and how things are different depending on how you do it.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/
I recommend that anyone that is planning on seafoaming, read through my before-and-after picture thread for what is actually happening inside your engine when you seafoam, and how things are different depending on how you do it.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/
A) Comparing the impact of letting the engine soak in seafoam vs ingesting it while it is running, letting it soak made almost zero impact. Ingesting while the engine was running made more than zero impact, but not substantial.
B) Ingesting distilled water while the engine was running had approximately the same impact as ingesting seafoam while the engine was running. (Seafoam also costs 100 times more per unit of measure than distilled water)
Mazda's decarb service soaks the engine, but they also do other stuff with oil injection and ECU changes during the process that we can't duplicate ourselves and I believe makes an impact on the result.
Ingesting LOTS of distilled water was still not making a remarkable improvement in the amount of carbon. It was making progress, but I figure I would have to have passed 10 gallons or so of it before I got significant carbon clearing around the seals. I wasn't willing try that much seafoam.
I highly suspect that a water injection kit that is installed and firing while driving for an extended period of time would be the best option for engine cleaning. Anything else tried in the driveway is mediocre at best.
B) Ingesting distilled water while the engine was running had approximately the same impact as ingesting seafoam while the engine was running. (Seafoam also costs 100 times more per unit of measure than distilled water)
Mazda's decarb service soaks the engine, but they also do other stuff with oil injection and ECU changes during the process that we can't duplicate ourselves and I believe makes an impact on the result.
Ingesting LOTS of distilled water was still not making a remarkable improvement in the amount of carbon. It was making progress, but I figure I would have to have passed 10 gallons or so of it before I got significant carbon clearing around the seals. I wasn't willing try that much seafoam.
I highly suspect that a water injection kit that is installed and firing while driving for an extended period of time would be the best option for engine cleaning. Anything else tried in the driveway is mediocre at best.
A) Comparing the impact of letting the engine soak in seafoam vs ingesting it while it is running, letting it soak made almost zero impact. Ingesting while the engine was running made more than zero impact, but not substantial.
B) Ingesting distilled water while the engine was running had approximately the same impact as ingesting seafoam while the engine was running. (Seafoam also costs 100 times more per unit of measure than distilled water)
Mazda's decarb service soaks the engine, but they also do other stuff with oil injection and ECU changes during the process that we can't duplicate ourselves and I believe makes an impact on the result.
Ingesting LOTS of distilled water was still not making a remarkable improvement in the amount of carbon. It was making progress, but I figure I would have to have passed 10 gallons or so of it before I got significant carbon clearing around the seals. I wasn't willing try that much seafoam.
I highly suspect that a water injection kit that is installed and firing while driving for an extended period of time would be the best option for engine cleaning. Anything else tried in the driveway is mediocre at best.
B) Ingesting distilled water while the engine was running had approximately the same impact as ingesting seafoam while the engine was running. (Seafoam also costs 100 times more per unit of measure than distilled water)
Mazda's decarb service soaks the engine, but they also do other stuff with oil injection and ECU changes during the process that we can't duplicate ourselves and I believe makes an impact on the result.
Ingesting LOTS of distilled water was still not making a remarkable improvement in the amount of carbon. It was making progress, but I figure I would have to have passed 10 gallons or so of it before I got significant carbon clearing around the seals. I wasn't willing try that much seafoam.
I highly suspect that a water injection kit that is installed and firing while driving for an extended period of time would be the best option for engine cleaning. Anything else tried in the driveway is mediocre at best.
No.
The service ports are after the SSV valve point. The only viable way to clean those would be to disassemble the UIM to get down to them directly. A water/meth injection kit may help keep those clean, since it would be injecting far before them, but I doubt just water would and I wouldn't run water/meth injection even on a stock engine unless I compensated for the fuel quantity introduced, and that's a headache I don't think I'd be willing to deal with.
I'm in the market for another RX-8, and water injection is almost certainly going on first thing, with 'before' rotor pics and more taken at intervals to see the progress of any cleaning, or lack of it. My theory isn't really proven enough for my head yet, but I'm willing to test it.
The service ports are after the SSV valve point. The only viable way to clean those would be to disassemble the UIM to get down to them directly. A water/meth injection kit may help keep those clean, since it would be injecting far before them, but I doubt just water would and I wouldn't run water/meth injection even on a stock engine unless I compensated for the fuel quantity introduced, and that's a headache I don't think I'd be willing to deal with.
I'm in the market for another RX-8, and water injection is almost certainly going on first thing, with 'before' rotor pics and more taken at intervals to see the progress of any cleaning, or lack of it. My theory isn't really proven enough for my head yet, but I'm willing to test it.
Last edited by RIWWP; Jul 29, 2013 at 12:57 PM.
No.
The service ports are after the SSV valve point. The only viable way to clean those would be to disassemble the UIM to get down to them directly. A water/meth injection kit may help keep those clean, since it would be injecting far before them, but I doubt just water would and I wouldn't run water/meth injection even on a stock engine unless I compensated for the fuel quantity introduced, and that's a headache I don't think I'd be willing to deal with.
I'm in the market for another RX-8, and water injection is almost certainly going on first thing, with 'before' rotor pics and more taken at intervals to see the progress of any cleaning, or lack of it. My theory isn't really proven enough for my head yet, but I'm willing to test it.
The service ports are after the SSV valve point. The only viable way to clean those would be to disassemble the UIM to get down to them directly. A water/meth injection kit may help keep those clean, since it would be injecting far before them, but I doubt just water would and I wouldn't run water/meth injection even on a stock engine unless I compensated for the fuel quantity introduced, and that's a headache I don't think I'd be willing to deal with.
I'm in the market for another RX-8, and water injection is almost certainly going on first thing, with 'before' rotor pics and more taken at intervals to see the progress of any cleaning, or lack of it. My theory isn't really proven enough for my head yet, but I'm willing to test it.
Yes, the BHR throttle body spacer is what makes the most amount of sense for any injection system, water, water/meth, or nitrous. It's why they made it.
Yes, any injection system is going to give you classing problems for any race series. A very few allow water injection only, I don't believe any allow water/meth. I don't think the SCCA allows anything.
Yes, any injection system is going to give you classing problems for any race series. A very few allow water injection only, I don't believe any allow water/meth. I don't think the SCCA allows anything.
Yes, the BHR throttle body spacer is what makes the most amount of sense for any injection system, water, water/meth, or nitrous. It's why they made it.
Yes, any injection system is going to give you classing problems for any race series. A very few allow water injection only, I don't believe any allow water/meth. I don't think the SCCA allows anything.
Yes, any injection system is going to give you classing problems for any race series. A very few allow water injection only, I don't believe any allow water/meth. I don't think the SCCA allows anything.
Oh also, is it ok to submerge the tube in the seafoam if I use the method of keeping the engine running? And does it still produce the lovely toxic cloud?
Last edited by bladeiai; Jul 29, 2013 at 02:12 PM.
RIWWP, wasn't it you that had compression come back in spec after the dealer performed a de-carb procedure?
If I remember the manual right, they difference at the dealer is they max out the oil injection rate after the procedure to avoid turning a freshly degreased engine. I would be surprised if that made a difference in the net effectiveness. Anyone with a MM AccessPort can replicate that, there is a max oil map.
So if we assume that Seafoam is basically the same as the Mazda stuff, there must be a usecase where it helps with the basic procedure. Right? I feel we're missing something here.
If I remember the manual right, they difference at the dealer is they max out the oil injection rate after the procedure to avoid turning a freshly degreased engine. I would be surprised if that made a difference in the net effectiveness. Anyone with a MM AccessPort can replicate that, there is a max oil map.
So if we assume that Seafoam is basically the same as the Mazda stuff, there must be a usecase where it helps with the basic procedure. Right? I feel we're missing something here.
Although, keep in mind that that much volume isn't getting atomized very well at all, which is going to reduce the amount of impact it's going to have.
The smoke cloud is almost always just from the seafoam just burning off while sitting in the exhaust. There was a bit of smoke, but minimal, when ingesting it while running. No noticeable exhaust smoke on water/meth or just water.
RIWWP, wasn't it you that had compression come back in spec after the dealer performed a de-carb procedure?
If I remember the manual right, they difference at the dealer is they max out the oil injection rate after the procedure to avoid turning a freshly degreased engine. I would be surprised if that made a difference in the net effectiveness. Anyone with a MM AccessPort can replicate that, there is a max oil map.
So if we assume that Seafoam is basically the same as the Mazda stuff, there must be a usecase where it helps with the basic procedure. Right? I feel we're missing something here.
If I remember the manual right, they difference at the dealer is they max out the oil injection rate after the procedure to avoid turning a freshly degreased engine. I would be surprised if that made a difference in the net effectiveness. Anyone with a MM AccessPort can replicate that, there is a max oil map.
So if we assume that Seafoam is basically the same as the Mazda stuff, there must be a usecase where it helps with the basic procedure. Right? I feel we're missing something here.
Yes, see the pic thread linked above, I have 1 compression test pre-decarb, 3 post-decarb by the dealer, and compression steadily increased.
Yes, they increase the oil injection, though I don't think it's a flash map change, but an actual mode the ECU goes into.
I just looked up the procedure, and there is indeed one very big difference. The decarb that Mazda introduces into the engine is being introduced as a spray through a vacuum hose. If you have ever messed around with decarb spray vs liquid seafoam, you would see the difference this could easily make. Decarb spray is very cold and it's under pressure, both of which could easily assist breaking carbon free from the surface underneath (temp due to different expansion rates of the materials). As it's being sprayed into a vacuum line, some of this is certainly mitigated, but it is a very noticeable difference.
If you have ever taken anything carbon caked, like a set of spark plugs, and soaked them in seafoam you would see how little is happening from simple soaking. I soaked a set of plugs for over 24 hours ones, and there was a slight haze of carbon in the seafoam by the end, but no perceptible change in the amount of carbon on the plugs and the carbon wasn't any easier to remove.
So yes, I agree that there is something missing when we do it in our driveways.
Code:
CARBON REMOVAL PROCEDURE WARNING: PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN USING ENGINE CLEANER. WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES WHEN HANDLING. ENGINE CLEANER IS FLAMMABLE. NOTE: It IS NECESSARY to perform CARBON REMOVAL when REPAIR PROCEDURE "B" is performed. If vehicle started when performing REPAIR PROCEDURE "A", it IS NOT NECESSARY to perform CARBON REMOVAL. An assistant may be necessary while performing this procedure. Approximately half a can of engine cleaner will be used per vehicle during this repair. 1. Cleaner kit comes with engine cleaner (A) and engine cleaner spray hose (B). NOTE: Engine cleaner spray hose (B) is not used for this procedure and can be discarded. The can of engine cleaner (A) will have a red plastic spray tube attached to it. This red spray tube will be used for this procedure. 2. Cut a piece of electrical tape 2" (5cm) long and wrap around the end of the red spray tube. 3. Cut a length of 1/8" inside diameter (ID) vacuum hose (obtained locally) to 27" (70cm). Insert tape wrapped end of red spray tube into vacuum hose and use a tie wrap to hold in place 4. Disconnect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (ESPS) B1-27 connector. NOTE: This will cut fuel injection and spark while performing the procedure. 5. Remove the front vacuum plug or PCV vacuum hose from the passenger side of the lower intake manifold NOTE: 2006 model year and later vehicles have PCV vacuum hoses attached to these ports for the PCV system. Disconnect these hoses from the lower intake manifold ports one at a time when performing this procedure. These hoses do not need to be plugged once disconnected. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to service both vacuum ports at the same time. Perform procedure for front port, then perform procedure for rear port. 6. Attach the vacuum hose end into front port nipple. NOTE: Ensure the vacuum hose is securely connected to the nipples to prevent the hose from becoming detached while spraying engine cleaner. 7. Attach the red spray hose end into the spray nozzle of the engine cleaner. Use care not to push down on the nozzle when inserting to prevent the can from spray cleaner. 8. Have an assistant crank the engine. While cranking the engine, simultaneously depress the spray nozzle of the engine cleaner for a duration of 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, stop spraying and cranking at the same time. DO NOT depress accelerator pedal while cranking. 9. Wait a minimum of 30 seconds and repeat STEP 8 for the same port. 10. Remove the vacuum hose from the lower intake manifold nipple. 11. Reconnect PCV vacuum hose or install vacuum plug to front nipple. 12. Repeat STEPS 5-11 for rear nipple. 13. Allow the engine cleaner to soak for at least 1 hour before starting engine. 14. Connect ESPS connector B1-27. 15. Attempt to start engine without depressing accelerator pedal. 16. Keep engine running between 1500-2000 RPM until engine speed has stabilized. Maintain this engine speed until all smoke has dissipated and / or engine has come to full operating temperature. CAUTION: Do not race the engine during warm-up, this may cause catalyst damage. 17. Rev engine from idle speed up to 6,000 RPM, then release throttle immediately until RPM returns to idle speed. 18. Repeat 20 times with vehicle in Park (AT) or neutral (MT). 19. Connect M-MDS to vehicle and ID vehicle. 20. Using DATALOGGER, select MOP POS# 21. Perform METERING OIL PUMP (MOP) simulation test. 22. Using DATALOGGER, select MOP POS# and RPM.
Last edited by RIWWP; Jul 29, 2013 at 03:56 PM.
Hexrx
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 246
Likes: 1
From: Riverside, CA
I just looked up the procedure, and there is indeed one very big difference. The decarb that Mazda introduces into the engine is being introduced as a spray through a vacuum hose. If you have ever messed around with decarb spray vs liquid seafoam, you would see the difference this could easily make. Decarb spray is very cold and it's under pressure, both of which could easily assist breaking carbon free from the surface underneath (temp due to different expansion rates of the materials). As it's being sprayed into a vacuum line, some of this is certainly mitigated, but it is a very noticeable difference.
Do you think that this might make the difference between what the dealer uses and the liquid seafoam? I also add a few ml's of premix after I have let the car warm up then finish preforming the procedure .