Well considering I have had the problem once, and many rough starts, I will be telling them I have had power issues.

Though when I told them before, the service guys didnt look to concerned.

Where do you get your service Zoom? I go to Royal Moore, since its right next to my house, but I'm thinking I should take it to where you go, since ur the man and all.

 

With the anticipated recall, should those of us with RB oil cooler/ AC screens remove them first?? I'm thinking (hoping) it shouldn't matter for this or any warranty work.

 

mazda has a small screen covering the 06 rad now... it would not be needed to remove the rad to remove the motor...

doubt it would be a problem..

beers

 

There are two separate issues: hard to start and lack of power.

If you read the dealer procedures, all cars get new spark plugs unless the car is new or the plugs have been replaced in the last 12 months. I guess it would be good to mention that the car has is hard to start and you'd like the new plugs.

Second is the loss of power and that follows the flow chart in the procedures.

 

Perform test drive lasting at least 20 minutes following these guidelines:
- Drive vehicle on city streets at speeds below 45 mph.
- Air conditioning and fan speed on max.
- Accelerate at very light throttle keeping shift points below 3000 RPM.

After 10 minutes stop vehicle in a parking lot, M/T in neutral and A/T in drive for one minute, and monitor
engine RPM using the DATALOGGER PID.
- At the 20 minute mark, stop the vehicle in a parking lot, M/T in neutral and A/T in drive for one minute,
and monitor engine RPM using the DATALOGGER PID.
- Safely accelerate the vehicle at wide open throttle (M/T shift at 8000 RPM) to the legal speed limit.
2. Did you experience any of the following during the test drive?
• Engine stall
• The vehicle has a severe lack of power
• The RPM PID drops to below 700 RPM during the one minute stops.
NO – Proceed to REPAIR PROCEDURE “D” PCM REPROGRAMMING
YES – Engine replacement required, complete ENGINE REPLACEMENT PARTS ORDER FORM and refer to PARTS INFORMATION section for engine ordering process.

I'm going to be doing this with my own car this week.

 

So I am confused as to what you are saying.
Stop car and Idle for 1 minute ,,,How do you get to the 20 minute mark? Seems to be 19 minutes unaccounted time in there,,,,
Before I floor the car to 8000 RPM
If my car idled for 20 minutes and I floored it after that it would have a severe case of PRE-DETONATION like crazy.
I would more than likely need an engine after that test.
If you could be a little bit more specific on this procedure that would help.

 

Hmmmm....I wonder if I drop by the dealer and show them all the documents that zoom posted if they'll work on it this week. They have my car as it is, and I might as well just leave it with them until its all fixed.

 

what is the low-idle problem like? mine stumbles down to like 500rpm for a pop or two as it idles on warm days. but i live in a cold climate... so who knows.

 

The recall covers 2006 models produced up until June 1st. Do you suppose they have even built ones after June with the 2007 models just around the corner? If not, then this really means that all 2006 models are being recalled too.

 

Well that's what the PDF for the dealers specified.

When I was reading the driving test initially, I was confused. I read it, like you, as a chronological test, but I think that you are supposed to do all these things while driving the car for 20 minutes. And at the 10 and 20 minute marks, you're supposed to idle the car for a minute not from the 10 minute mark to the 20 minute mark.

 

They are hard at work RE-building them.

Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7w0p6...elated&search=

 

Nice find!

 

Ah the beauty of it all..... this elegant engine simply goes round and round... while all those damn piston engines always have to go up and down and thrash about constantly...

 

Very cool video. It didn't look like the oil and water seals between the housings were in place. Perhaps they are just much thinner on the Renesis then what I expected. (I've rebuilt a 12A, and I remember them being visible once installed.)

BTW, where do I get the rotor assembly jig. I want one!

 

I want to save that into my pc, know where I can download the file?

 

You can save the link but I haven't found a way to download the video itself.

Not sure where it is other than there. Has to be somewhere.

 

thanks, I know a couple of guys have it here, but cant remember who

 

In reference to Olddragger's comment on the need for gauges...


I third that! I don't know why Racing Beat can think of these things but the manufacturer cannot?! I mean Mazda's been doing rotary for how many years now!

 

That's an old video guys.

I'm starting to worry more than I was before. I have experienced a very erratic idle and almost a stall only twice since 10/03. Both times were after idling awhile, then accelerating. The engine seemed to stumble to the point of almost stalling, then it returned to normal. Never stalled, but the behavior was odd. No codes were thrown, so I replaced the plugs. Maybe I have coil issues. I'll check those next I guess. So, with only two occurances in 45K worth of miles, maybe I will just get the flash only. Any thoughts?

 

they would still but just at the normal rate and not this higher rate

 

hahaha you might ask Jim Mederer wwhere they got the IDEA for the MOP modification I did. they tested a FI Renesis for Mazda and it had a Modified MOP that RB copied... but as Jim will also tell you- its un neccesary except for possibly high boostd cars because Mazda can program the factory MOP to literally FILL the engine with oil.

but yes it took them awhile to find the root cause for this issue and then determine that modifying the MOP profile in certain situations would remedy the issue and THEN TO GO THRU CARB AND EPA CERTIFICATION because changing the MOP profile can alter emissions. the recerts alone can take 6-8 months. hence why car were having PCMs sent to Irvine for programming int he mean time.

 

Herzog Meier

 

i hear ya. and like i said before i have been investigating this since 2005 and understand the issue as well as anyone outside of mazda techs and swoope but i have this .... feeling. but no substantiated info yet

 

Nemesis, I've had the same thing...I have about 29K. I have an 04, and in the last year, I'd count maybe only 3 times, where the car suddently rumbles, shakes as if it will stall, then returns to normal. This is after stopping in traffic, or at a light. I can't remember if it was especially hot though. But those 3 times were spread out over months, it wasnt a repetitive thing really.

Other than this, my car has been fine...no lack of power. I have the new plugs and starter, and it starts fine for the most part. Every once in a while it cranks a few ticks longer than normal.

 

Thats it - I have the new plugs, starter etc. also. Over three years, this has only happened twice. I'm glad, and sad, that someone else has experienced this. I'm researching mine.