Are you turning your engine off correctly!?!? I'm sure 95% of you are not!
05-04-2006, 08:09 AM
#101
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I know that the two or three other people that I have seen do this procedure do it incorrectly, so that may be the case with others that have tried it and still ended up flooded.
Despite what the manual or other materials might say, you need to kill the motor before the revs reach idle. That is to say, while it is still winding down from 3k or so and passing 1500 RPM or above.
If you wait for it to hit idle again, the PCM starts shooting a ton of fuel to smooth the idle out and maintain the cold-start enrichment. The anti-buck routine is still running when it is winding down and the injectors are cut, so this is when you want to kill the EFI.
Despite what the manual or other materials might say, you need to kill the motor before the revs reach idle. That is to say, while it is still winding down from 3k or so and passing 1500 RPM or above.
If you wait for it to hit idle again, the PCM starts shooting a ton of fuel to smooth the idle out and maintain the cold-start enrichment. The anti-buck routine is still running when it is winding down and the injectors are cut, so this is when you want to kill the EFI.
05-04-2006, 01:25 PM
#103
I'm with MazdaManiac with this one (after re"search"ing the issue on the forum when I first purchased the car). My dealer also told me to always rev to 3K and shut down while there, but he's a sales guy and has never owned a rotary and told me several other incorrect things during the same conversation (this is my 2nd, I used to own an FD, although that had a turbo timer, so the shut off procedure was obviously different). So, if the engine is not warmed up to normal operating temp, I rev to 3K (no higher) for 10 seconds, let revs fall and turn the key right before 1.5K. If the engine is warm, I shut it off like I would any other car.
05-06-2006, 02:19 PM
#104
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I know that the two or three other people that I have seen do this procedure do it incorrectly, so that may be the case with others that have tried it and still ended up flooded.
Despite what the manual or other materials might say, you need to kill the motor before the revs reach idle. That is to say, while it is still winding down from 3k or so and passing 1500 RPM or above.
If you wait for it to hit idle again, the PCM starts shooting a ton of fuel to smooth the idle out and maintain the cold-start enrichment. The anti-buck routine is still running when it is winding down and the injectors are cut, so this is when you want to kill the EFI.
Despite what the manual or other materials might say, you need to kill the motor before the revs reach idle. That is to say, while it is still winding down from 3k or so and passing 1500 RPM or above.
If you wait for it to hit idle again, the PCM starts shooting a ton of fuel to smooth the idle out and maintain the cold-start enrichment. The anti-buck routine is still running when it is winding down and the injectors are cut, so this is when you want to kill the EFI.
04-21-2017, 12:22 PM
#105
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If you read that handy little booklet on how to operate you vehicle, the MAN-U-AL (I know its a foriegn word for some) it states that one should rev to 3.5k for 1 second and shut off to let excess fuel and emmisions spin out of the engine via enursia, in order to prevent flooding upon next start up. This is also a preventative measure when your engine has not been run long enough to reach proper operating temps.
Its all there in your manual... if this is news to you, you obviously need to go read it.
Its all there in your manual... if this is news to you, you obviously need to go read it.
But solid info, well said.
04-21-2017, 12:25 PM
#106
04-21-2017, 04:44 PM
#108
Registered
this is nothing new....i heard about this even when i had my RX7...somebody made this up to sound cool...but its actualy bad for the engine...
The manual did say rev at 3000 rpm for 10 seconds when your engine is still cold then let the needle go to idle then shut it off...this is to reduce risking flooding the engine...someone probably read this and thought it be cool just doing it all the time and make himsound like a rotary expert...but actually has no basis
The manual did say rev at 3000 rpm for 10 seconds when your engine is still cold then let the needle go to idle then shut it off...this is to reduce risking flooding the engine...someone probably read this and thought it be cool just doing it all the time and make himsound like a rotary expert...but actually has no basis
Last edited by jorlanjm; 04-22-2017 at 10:38 AM.
05-11-2017, 10:26 AM
#109
To me this sounds like total bullshit. When the engine is warm, the housing and rotors are so hot that they simply evaporate any left gasoline on the surfaces. As you shut down the engine, it doesn't shut down within an rpm. It takes a small second to completely stop rotating. Takes it that the engine spins 800rpm on idle, which is /60 = 12 times per second / 3 = A face of the rotor rotates 4 times 360 degrees in the housing.
I would believe that sucking in air without fuel and pushing this air without fuel 4 times would be sufficient to push out any unburnt fuel, if there even was any excess fuel because the engine runs stoic on Idle, so...
I have only flooded my engine once, and that's when I moved the car literally 5 meters and the engine ran for 5 seconds. The housing and rotors themselves were still cold and soaked in gasoline from the extra rich mixture. Now only then it makes sense to do this. But if the engine ran for already 1 minute, you can freely shut it down without revving it like a stupid ricer. I frequently start my car cold at the office, drive 500 meters / 1 minute and park the car at the supermarket for like 5 to 10 minutes. It starts even better than it does at the office.
Dealerships are full of tools themselves. I had one admit that they rely on information from RX8Club and were like "hurr durr, your engine lost compression", because they couldn't start it. Neither could I, so I disconnected the battery and reset the ECU. Reconnected the battery and the car started on a whim. Dealership was flabbergasted, because they couldn't identify that there is a faulty sensor that makes the car run richer than it should, and by resetting it to factory defaults it ran just fine. Until it relearned again...
I would advise anyone spending money on an escort instead of dealerships, because then atleast you get fucked the right way.
I would believe that sucking in air without fuel and pushing this air without fuel 4 times would be sufficient to push out any unburnt fuel, if there even was any excess fuel because the engine runs stoic on Idle, so...
I have only flooded my engine once, and that's when I moved the car literally 5 meters and the engine ran for 5 seconds. The housing and rotors themselves were still cold and soaked in gasoline from the extra rich mixture. Now only then it makes sense to do this. But if the engine ran for already 1 minute, you can freely shut it down without revving it like a stupid ricer. I frequently start my car cold at the office, drive 500 meters / 1 minute and park the car at the supermarket for like 5 to 10 minutes. It starts even better than it does at the office.
Dealerships are full of tools themselves. I had one admit that they rely on information from RX8Club and were like "hurr durr, your engine lost compression", because they couldn't start it. Neither could I, so I disconnected the battery and reset the ECU. Reconnected the battery and the car started on a whim. Dealership was flabbergasted, because they couldn't identify that there is a faulty sensor that makes the car run richer than it should, and by resetting it to factory defaults it ran just fine. Until it relearned again...
I would advise anyone spending money on an escort instead of dealerships, because then atleast you get fucked the right way.
05-11-2017, 12:30 PM
#110
The Michigan "WANKEL"
this is nothing new....i heard about this even when i had my RX7...somebody made this up to sound cool...but its actualy bad for the engine...
The manual did say rev at 3000 rpm for 10 seconds when your engine is still cold then let the needle go to idle then shut it off...this is to reduce risking flooding the engine...someone probably read this and thought it be cool just doing it all the time and make himsound like a rotary expert...but actually has no basis
The manual did say rev at 3000 rpm for 10 seconds when your engine is still cold then let the needle go to idle then shut it off...this is to reduce risking flooding the engine...someone probably read this and thought it be cool just doing it all the time and make himsound like a rotary expert...but actually has no basis
05-12-2017, 05:57 AM
#111
Yes. I get so tired of hearing this. Even the service person at the dealer told me to always do this. Yet my 2009 RX-8 manual clearly states that it's only necessary when the engine has not fully warmed up, which is easy to tell with the variable redline on the tach in the Series II.
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