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Finally got around to half of my ignition maintainence. XD
Anyone ever broken one of those ******* plastic elbow joints that connect to (I believe) the secondary air pump hoses that lead to UIM/throttle body accordion? had to makeshift with a metal joint for now but it works until I figure out where to get one. ******* plastic **** I swear to god I ALWAYS break something XD.
Finally got around to half of my ignition maintainence. XD
Anyone ever broken one of those ******* plastic elbow joints that connect to (I believe) the secondary air pump hoses that lead to UIM/throttle body accordion? had to makeshift with a metal joint for now but it works until I figure out where to get one. ******* plastic **** I swear to god I ALWAYS break something XD.
Your throttle body looks a little oily. Just a tip you should clean it out.
Lol, yeah i did wipe it down a bit but it wasnt too bad. I will be back in there for coil packs soon so maybe i will get more down and dirty with it then
Reinstalled the Konis after having the OEM dampers on there for 10 months or so and had an alignment done. Looking forward to my SCCA Track Night up in Jersey on Wednesday.
Also washed and waxed. Last time was probably September. It's garaged, so it didn't look that bad, but she needed it! Now I have to clean the inside.
Edit: Also installed foam around the radiator. (With that huge AC condenser blocking 95% of the radiator, no wonder water temps aren't great)
Also enlarged the vent holes behind the oil coolers. Pretty easy to do with a utility knife.
Anyone ever broken one of those ******* plastic elbow joints that connect to (I believe) the secondary air pump hoses that lead to UIM/throttle body accordion? had to makeshift with a metal joint for now but it works until I figure out where to get one. ******* plastic **** I swear to god I ALWAYS break something XD.
Simple question. My 8 is hard to start and does not idel. Has lots of power but stalls if you let it try and idel. Mazda says low compression but did not do a test they just did a diagnostic and figured its gotta be low compression. What do you guys think
If Mazda dealer came ot the conclusion that it is low compression (and you paid the ~$99 USD for the testing) - they should have given you proof (run the compression test). You could go back and negotiate (let's say) $0 to $65 to have the compression test performed since you already paid the Dx fee.
I hit a good size rock a year ago and I think the strut was hurt and lowering it made it go. Bought the new struts and getting them installed! I already miss her :'(
Same here! It must be a vacuum leak as I cleaned, changed and inspected everything when putting the engine back in. The weird thing is when I had my old, low compression engine, it would do the same thing when I was able to get it running.
A while back (so long ago, I don't remember when), I bought some 12" led strips. I got them for footwell lights and did some rather extensive design for wiring them, including diodes and relays. Long story short the design was a bust. I ultimately put 2 led strips on each side, one on the parking lights and the other on the courtesy lights.
I'd be lying if I I said that seeing The Fast and The Furious tomorrow, wasn't a bit of a motivating force.
Overheating in an S2 (or S1 for that matter) is not a function of radiator foam alone. There is at least one other contributing factor. Stuffing a bunch of foam around the radiator in addition to what is already there is masking the other problem. Indeed, some air is supposed to make it around the radiator to cool the engine bay.
The main culprits typically are:
1. Faulty thermostat that does not open completely
2. Dirty radiator fins that need to be flushed with water
3. Weak or otherwise faulty fans
4. Obstruction or build-up in the system likely caused by old coolant and/or the use of Water Wetter
It is true that the 8's cooling system is not the strongest in the world, but it will function properly in triple digit heat if it is well-maintained.
Thanks for the input, items 1 & 2 I need to take a look at before I go springing for a new radiator. I have done multiple coolant flushes since getting my reman engine, but this radiator has 120k miles on it now, and has seen 2 remans...
I have found that my fans are quite effective at bringing the temperature down when I am stopped. My problem happens at sustained high load while at highway speed. On the foam, I merely want to make sure that the foam that is supposed to be there has not gone missing.
What happens when your S2 overheats? When it does, what mods and fluid type, and level do you have/use?
Nothing happens because once it gets above 225F, I start actively managing engine load/ AC usage to bring the temps down. Bone stock, running 50/50 FL-22/water mix. Coolant level was just a hair below L, so I added a bit of water.
Motohegg, make sure you aren't introducing air through a loose drain hose, bleeder valve, or somewhere else. one track event isn't going to add that much air unless there was some other major malfunction, like no brakes at all. If the "old ****" was still in an unopened bottle, it probably isn't the problem. If it was open, then yeah, not good.
I agree. Air is coming in from somewhere else like the bleeder itself or the hose. Make sure the bleeder is only opened as much as necessary for fluid to begin to flow and that your hose has a tight seal on the bleeder. A Liter of fluid is almost enough to flush the entire system. There is no way you could have that much air in the system, and one track day is certainly not enough to create enough steam to do that--even on old fluid. Your pedal would go to the floor with that much air.
It took me three times to finally do it, but I finally re-homed my RX-8 after shopping for a proper buyer. After getting my 4Runner, I started seeing my 8 under it's cover much too much, and thought someone else should enjoy this ride. Up here in the mountains of Arizona, the 4Runner was clearly the more suitable vehicle. So after 2 1/2 years of ownership, I put it on CL and found a buyer in the Phoenix area that had enough car experience to treat the 8 right and continue its legacy of well-cared ownership.
Final selling price: $6200. Miles: 72000 (of which only 44k on the replaced engine). Money saved on insurance: $50/mo.
Pioneer AVH-4000NEX head with Bose system included. Hope she enjoys it. I suggested to her to join this forum as well.
Motohegg, make sure you aren't introducing air through a loose drain hose, bleeder valve, or somewhere else. one track event isn't going to add that much air unless there was some other major malfunction, like no brakes at all. If the "old ****" was still in an unopened bottle, it probably isn't the problem. If it was open, then yeah, not good.
wankelbolt and Steve, I'll definitely check the bleeder screw. Maybe it was too loose!?? But I'd think brake fluid would seep past the threads if it were that loose - I had that happen before. I'll also check the tube that goes from the bleeder screw to the bottle.
And yes, I wasn't thinking straight before my track night I guess and used fluid that had been open for a while after originally only using part of it and then putting it back on the shelf. I won't say how old that fluid probably was.
It was bizarre. The bubbles just kept coming. I'm pissed that I wasted a whole liter on just one corner. Live and learn.
06-18-2016, 09:09 PM
Cruising in the north Georgia mountains
