LOL I'm actually trying to figure out where this bolts onto! The one thing I didn't label......

 

Speaking of Labeling! I forgot where this goes and it's the only thing i didnt label......

 

Didn't do anything but managed to capture this picture at a red light.

 

Overheating in an S2 (or S1 for that matter) is not a function of radiator foam alone. There is at least one other contributing factor. Stuffing a bunch of foam around the radiator in addition to what is already there is masking the other problem. Indeed, some air is supposed to make it around the radiator to cool the engine bay.

The main culprits typically are:

1. Faulty thermostat that does not open completely
2. Dirty radiator fins that need to be flushed with water
3. Weak or otherwise faulty fans
4. Obstruction or build-up in the system likely caused by old coolant and/or the use of Water Wetter

It is true that the 8's cooling system is not the strongest in the world, but it will function properly in triple digit heat if it is well-maintained.

 

So the OBD2 says it is at 230F (110C - correct)? Does the temperature indicator move up as well? My first thoughts are: (1) that your overheat situation is coolant quality related (diluted or too concentrated if it is FL-22 or something else if your're using aftermarket), (2) internal wetted coolant surface areas in the radiator and block/core areas are fouled (not sure what the Mazda approved flush is to ensure you do not muck up the coolant seals and metal surfaces), or (3) the coolant flow rate is lower than spec (due to blockages or even impeller blade pitting).

The science behind it is: heat transferred = h * A * (delta T). The most important is the surface area and the H (h=heat transfer coefficient which is related to flow and surface thermal conductivity - fouling). Engines are all designed due the BAE/SAE standards to withstand a large temperature difference even in static (stop/go traffic) conditions on the hot and cold sides. FL-22 coolant (not diluted and regularly replaced) should prevent fouling. However if the previous owner didn't replace with FL-22 or used aftermarket coolant the h has changed. An aftermarket radiatior or cooling fan mafunction/change will also play a role.

More info at:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...24088155,d.bGs

 

Drove to work

 

I modified and mounted my undertray last night. I've also tapped a new drain plug into the pan and changed out my Turbo oil drain fitting with one that has an o ring build in.

Before that i had to replace two coils (both leading).

Busy
busy

Travis

 

I got mine Dyno, a little disappointing, but it was a heart-breaker Mustang Dyno. Got 165whp or so, but I think it was the premix lowering the octane and the Dyno reading about 5 or 10% lower, will have to take it somewhere else to get a second opinion. For those of you that know a whole lot more than me, take a look at the chart and see what you think about the 2 dips, one at 6.5k and the second at about 8k, what do you guys think? Clutch? The car has the original clutch with 34k miles.

 

Put the block on engine bracket and aligned transmission.

 

Redline!!!!!

 

Knock sensor. It bolts to the rear housing below the oil filler opening you can see in the picture

 

Thats a pretty normal looking dyno for a stock 8. The curve is normal...the 2 dips are when the intake tract valves open. The numbers aren't even that bad for that type of Dyno

 

Cool, thanks for clarifying . Makes me feel a little better as I thought my car felt fine or even better compare to other 8's I've driven.

 

Try downshifting when maintaining same speed next time - higher rpm but lower load will allow for more coolant circulation while producing almost the same amount of heat

 

Replaced air filter with an afe permanent one. Cleaned maf sensor with crc.

 

Did a compression test today and it's not so good.
2004 99,350 miles on original engine. coils, plugs, and wires replaced 3 months ago less than 1k miles on them.






front




rear

 

i threw on some new tires on her. the rear driver side i was through the steel belts and into them on the passenger side.

additionally, i got the new sway bar end links installed. there was no unthreading them, as they the nut was solid rusted on. i ultimately had to cut off and grind down the nut to get them off.

 

MY ENGINE HAS A SERIOUS PROBLEM OF PRESSURE !!!!
Here in Cyprus i asked 2 mechanics that can fix it and the amount they are telling me is very high. 4000 Euros !!!!
My mazda is 2004 6 speed transmition manual.
I found an engine for an automatic RX8 in a very very good contrition only 800 euros with 11000 km only on it. ( the car crashed and the engine is actually new)
Is it suitable for my RX8 or is very different and i will have problems????

Pls tell me your opinions

Thnx in advance
Costas

 

My rx8 is at mechanic and i need same information's pls !!!!
MY ENGINE HAS A SERIOUS PROBLEM OF PRESSURE !!!!
Here in Cyprus i asked 2 mechanics that can fix it and the amount they are telling me is very high. 4000 Euros !!!!
My mazda is 2004 6 speed transmition manual.
I found an engine for an automatic RX8 in a very very good contrition only 800 euros with 11000 km only on it. ( the car crashed and the engine is actually new)
Is it suitable for my RX8 or is very different and i will have problems????

Pls tell me your opinions

Thnx in advance
Costas

Pls sent me personal msg thnx

 

Changed my transmission and differential fluid. First changed them a little over 2 years ago at 12,900 miles and yesterday again at 41,800 miles. Redline MT90 75W90 GL-4 and Redline 75W90 GL-5 from Amazon.

Some ugly pics there with the metal shavings caught by the magnet. The last picture is of the trans fluid after it was drained into the plastic pan.

The fluids have one solid season of autocrossing. I didn't really do any autocrossing last year and saw pretty much all highway commuting miles with some DC traffic. This year just been driving around town since my new job is only a few minutes from my house.

I've got an SCCA Track Night in a couple of weeks in NJ, so doing some maintenance.

 

motohegg, that's normal metal bits on your drain plugs. The fluid in the pan looks a bit milky, like maybe there is some water contamination, but always hard to tell from a picture. If it shift fine I wouldn't sweat it.

Today I ordered new side seals for my diff. I have a leak, I think I nicked one when I swapped in the replacement diff. It's not bad, but leaks right onto the exhaust which smells wonderful after a hard run on the track...

 

Wankelbolt, cool. Thanks. Yeah, everything seems to be working smoothly. No issues that I can tell.

I like your signature. I also have a VR Sport 6MT ('11) with manual cloth seats, NO: sunroof, fancy stereo, TC, SC.

 

Put on the racing beat header which was rough but at least I have something shiny in the bottom of my engine for everyone to not see

 

Replaced the A/C amplifier this afternoon.

I was having the cold-warm-cold cycling issue. The car is an early-04 VIN that fell into the 07-002/04 TSB. But since the car is out of warranty, the dealer told me it would be at least $500. So I picked up a used a/c amplifier for $50 and replaced it myself.

It has definitely made a difference. But I still have compressor cycling when fan speed is 1-3. Oddly though no cycling when on 4. But it no longer gets as warm. I'm thinking I could still have a bad sensor, or possibly the controls. Going to drive it around a few days in this lovely Arizona heat and decide if I need to dig further.

Oh and the damn part is a PITA to reach. Particularly the back screw. But then I think I'm used to that kind of thing now on the RX8.

 

Today i fixed two holes in my oil pan that were causing some serious leaks. luckily it just happened yesterday and noticed it quickly before leaking too much