Too Good to Be True???
salvaged title means you may never be able to trade it into a dealer and you'll never get anything near blue or black book value. Notwithstanding, if you are going to keep the car FOREVER, and I do mean FOREVER, and it is mechanically sound with all the recalls, etc. done you should be okay.
Financially--it'd be better to pay extra for a clean title but, like I said, if this does not bother you (some cars that are stolen and not damaged get "totaled" (Salvaged) and some are totalled when the damages exceed the value of the car).
Financially--it'd be better to pay extra for a clean title but, like I said, if this does not bother you (some cars that are stolen and not damaged get "totaled" (Salvaged) and some are totalled when the damages exceed the value of the car).
These are all good ideas to buy the car i want, but i think i will be better off buying a clean title and buyin a car from a personal seller. The part about getting the loan how good of a credit do u have to have to get a lone from aproximately $20,000. I think the credit is in the 600s but i dunno which bank like Chase, Washington Mutual, etc....
The credit score affects the APR. 600 or less = higher rates. The ability to get a loan is generally more a question of what kind of credit history you have.
i.e. - if you're 16-18 and have yet to ever have any bills/credit cards in your name, you have no credit history. If this is you, you'll likely need someone to co-sign for the loan.
If you have a few years of credit history you should be able to get a loan, and it becomes a Q of credit score (based on what is in your credit history) to determine the APR. (assuming you are not some deadbeat who owes $$$ all over the place & have collections agencies calling, that is
)
There are other factors, but that's the really bare bones gist of it.
i.e. - if you're 16-18 and have yet to ever have any bills/credit cards in your name, you have no credit history. If this is you, you'll likely need someone to co-sign for the loan.
If you have a few years of credit history you should be able to get a loan, and it becomes a Q of credit score (based on what is in your credit history) to determine the APR. (assuming you are not some deadbeat who owes $$$ all over the place & have collections agencies calling, that is
)There are other factors, but that's the really bare bones gist of it.
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