Strange noise high RPMS , power issue
01-20-2018, 01:59 PM
#27
You may want to do a capture when the strange noise is happening. AFR, ignition timing, knock count, cat temp, IAT temp, coolant temp, RPM.
IAT temp looks normal. I suppose it showed high in previous examples through combination of hot engine bay at idle and poor intake design.
But that said, I think it's also time to get your hands dirty and find that vacuum leak.
IAT temp looks normal. I suppose it showed high in previous examples through combination of hot engine bay at idle and poor intake design.
But that said, I think it's also time to get your hands dirty and find that vacuum leak.
Last edited by Loki; 01-20-2018 at 02:07 PM.
01-22-2018, 01:41 PM
#29
I was thinking of getting the front 02 sensor replaced first. So far i've already changed MAF and fuel pump. If its same readings after replacement of 02 sensor, then its probably a bad hose, vacuum leak like you say?
01-22-2018, 02:32 PM
#30
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
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Correct method:
Incorrect method:
Your MAF rate being low is unlikely to be caused by an O2 sensor.
Low MAF rate is typically indicative of a vacuum leak or low-compression. Based on that, you should search for a vacuum leak and get a compression test. Replacing the front O2 sensor may just end up being $200 wasted.
- Troubleshoot/Diagnose
- Throw parts at it.
Incorrect method:
- Throw parts at it
- Troubleshoot/diagnose
- Throw more parts at it.
Your MAF rate being low is unlikely to be caused by an O2 sensor.
Low MAF rate is typically indicative of a vacuum leak or low-compression. Based on that, you should search for a vacuum leak and get a compression test. Replacing the front O2 sensor may just end up being $200 wasted.
01-23-2018, 05:02 PM
#31
Correct method:
Incorrect method:
Your MAF rate being low is unlikely to be caused by an O2 sensor.
Low MAF rate is typically indicative of a vacuum leak or low-compression. Based on that, you should search for a vacuum leak and get a compression test. Replacing the front O2 sensor may just end up being $200 wasted.
- Troubleshoot/Diagnose
- Throw parts at it.
Incorrect method:
- Throw parts at it
- Troubleshoot/diagnose
- Throw more parts at it.
Your MAF rate being low is unlikely to be caused by an O2 sensor.
Low MAF rate is typically indicative of a vacuum leak or low-compression. Based on that, you should search for a vacuum leak and get a compression test. Replacing the front O2 sensor may just end up being $200 wasted.
Is there any other readings i can check?
Last edited by kanie12; 01-23-2018 at 05:18 PM.
01-23-2018, 07:01 PM
#32
No amount of readings are going to change the fact that your LTFT is high, indicating a vacuum leak. If the dealer won't help you, any decent mechanic can search for the leak and help solve at least that part. So can you, it requires no skills beyond watching a youtube video or two.
01-24-2018, 06:49 AM
#33
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
Posts: 3,606
Received 649 Likes
on
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Where are you located? Anywhere near Chicago? If you can limp it to my place, I'll help you.
Otherwise, here's a good how-to on the two best methods of finding vacuum leaks.
How to Find a Vacuum Leak - Smoking Out Vacuum Leaks
You can do this in a parking space with just a can of carb cleaner.
Otherwise, here's a good how-to on the two best methods of finding vacuum leaks.
How to Find a Vacuum Leak - Smoking Out Vacuum Leaks
You can do this in a parking space with just a can of carb cleaner.
01-24-2018, 10:34 AM
#34
Where are you located? Anywhere near Chicago? If you can limp it to my place, I'll help you.
Otherwise, here's a good how-to on the two best methods of finding vacuum leaks.
How to Find a Vacuum Leak - Smoking Out Vacuum Leaks
You can do this in a parking space with just a can of carb cleaner.
Otherwise, here's a good how-to on the two best methods of finding vacuum leaks.
How to Find a Vacuum Leak - Smoking Out Vacuum Leaks
You can do this in a parking space with just a can of carb cleaner.
01-24-2018, 11:41 AM
#35
Reason for low maf reading at idle is probably your intake design , it's also why your IATs are insanely high and probably why you have high rpm power loss . I would replace that stupid intake with a stock one before you attempt to look for any other problems !
01-25-2018, 11:59 AM
#37
01-25-2018, 01:59 PM
#38
Wow what a load of bullshit. The dealer clames the engine is completely done. They said they could diagnose thie easily since the speedo is on 200000km and these engines only lasted maximum 70000km. Also they claimed the engine could not be repaired or overhauled, that the parts fort that do not exist.
Also they said the compression test would not work correctly for this car, since its a rotary... OMFG.... I i have new engine since 2011 which has done aprox 65000km and have no starting issues.
01-25-2018, 05:06 PM
#42
I checked this DIY that was linked.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3094/how-to-find-a-vacuum-leak/ . Even if I do find the leak, I still need a qualified dealer to fix it 😑
"Yes, this is dangerous, especially if you consider your eyebrows important. There's not supposed to be an ignition source on the engine anywhere, but once in a blue moon, a stray spark or an overheated exhaust manifold can make the carb cleaner flare up. You've been warned." SERIOUSLY? After I'm done testing, the engine will catch on fire.
Last edited by kanie12; 01-25-2018 at 05:16 PM.
01-26-2018, 08:51 AM
#43
Lol you're not going to catch fire any more than you'll get an electric shock working on a computer.
You could at least do a visual inspection. All you're looking for is a hose that's not connected to anything or a nipple that has no hose going to it. Since you have that Typhoon intake, the VFAD nipple under the throttle body, or the line from it would be my top suspects.
You could at least do a visual inspection. All you're looking for is a hose that's not connected to anything or a nipple that has no hose going to it. Since you have that Typhoon intake, the VFAD nipple under the throttle body, or the line from it would be my top suspects.
01-26-2018, 11:33 AM
#44
Lol you're not going to catch fire any more than you'll get an electric shock working on a computer.
You could at least do a visual inspection. All you're looking for is a hose that's not connected to anything or a nipple that has no hose going to it. Since you have that Typhoon intake, the VFAD nipple under the throttle body, or the line from it would be my top suspects.
You could at least do a visual inspection. All you're looking for is a hose that's not connected to anything or a nipple that has no hose going to it. Since you have that Typhoon intake, the VFAD nipple under the throttle body, or the line from it would be my top suspects.
Last edited by kanie12; 01-26-2018 at 11:36 AM.
01-29-2018, 02:42 PM
#45
Here is some pics of the plugs that were recently replaced:
Last edited by kanie12; 01-29-2018 at 03:25 PM.
01-29-2018, 03:54 PM
#46
Those plugs ran pig rich, so that confirms the symptoms.
Here's the thing to check: on the underside of the throttle body, sort of above the blue/black ignition coils on the 2nd picture, but aft, there is a nipple that is out of sight. My bet is it is either not plugged, or the hose going to it is not plugged.
Here's the thing to check: on the underside of the throttle body, sort of above the blue/black ignition coils on the 2nd picture, but aft, there is a nipple that is out of sight. My bet is it is either not plugged, or the hose going to it is not plugged.
01-29-2018, 05:04 PM
#47
Those plugs ran pig rich, so that confirms the symptoms.
Here's the thing to check: on the underside of the throttle body, sort of above the blue/black ignition coils on the 2nd picture, but aft, there is a nipple that is out of sight. My bet is it is either not plugged, or the hose going to it is not plugged.
Here's the thing to check: on the underside of the throttle body, sort of above the blue/black ignition coils on the 2nd picture, but aft, there is a nipple that is out of sight. My bet is it is either not plugged, or the hose going to it is not plugged.
01-30-2018, 03:32 PM
#49
Oh dear .............
In other news ... do as Loki suggested and check that hose with the green and white check valve on it you can see in your picture . Is the far end of that hose plugged ? Or is it still connected to the VFAD valve .... if it's connected to the valve and the other valve port isn't plugged ....that's a vac leak !
In other news ... do as Loki suggested and check that hose with the green and white check valve on it you can see in your picture . Is the far end of that hose plugged ? Or is it still connected to the VFAD valve .... if it's connected to the valve and the other valve port isn't plugged ....that's a vac leak !
Last edited by Brettus; 01-30-2018 at 03:45 PM.
01-30-2018, 05:14 PM
#50
Oh dear .............
In other news ... do as Loki suggested and check that hose with the green and white check valve on it you can see in your picture . Is the far end of that hose plugged ? Or is it still connected to the VFAD valve .... if it's connected to the valve and the other valve port isn't plugged ....that's a vac leak !
In other news ... do as Loki suggested and check that hose with the green and white check valve on it you can see in your picture . Is the far end of that hose plugged ? Or is it still connected to the VFAD valve .... if it's connected to the valve and the other valve port isn't plugged ....that's a vac leak !
Last edited by kanie12; 01-30-2018 at 05:25 PM.