Special Mazda tool to replace oil filter?
#1
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Special Mazda tool to replace oil filter?
I am ready to perform and oil change for the 1st time. I have never done it before and while reading thru the manual it says I need a special tool to replace the oil filter.
Any idea what this is all about?
Any idea what this is all about?
#3
The factory seal on the original filter can be rather tight. Some people have needed to get the aforementioned filter wrenches.
The only really special tool you need is a hand with an opposable thumb.
The only really special tool you need is a hand with an opposable thumb.
#4
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Some people like to poke a hole in the top of the filter with a screwdriver to let the oil drain better.
Mazda specific oil filter wrenches can be found at your local auto parts store next to the blinker fluid and muffler bearings.
Mazda specific oil filter wrenches can be found at your local auto parts store next to the blinker fluid and muffler bearings.
#10
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Normally, an oil filter should be hand tight. If it is not, a hole in the side, can be used with the screwdriver to "torque" the first quarter turn, as you now have a lever arm with which you can exert more rotational force. It's not the best way, but it is a way, that requires no additional tools. Usually, I reach in and turn it by hand.
#12
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Normally, an oil filter should be hand tight. If it is not, a hole in the side, can be used with the screwdriver to "torque" the first quarter turn, as you now have a lever arm with which you can exert more rotational force. It's not the best way, but it is a way, that requires no additional tools. Usually, I reach in and turn it by hand.
i really need to know.. i have read about it for while..
beers
#13
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The only reason I put a hole in the top is to let more of the oil drain out. I still get about a teaspoon worth of drippage, though. I hate that g#$&@mn inverted filter!!
#14
Normally, an oil filter should be hand tight. If it is not, a hole in the side, can be used with the screwdriver to "torque" the first quarter turn, as you now have a lever arm with which you can exert more rotational force. It's not the best way, but it is a way, that requires no additional tools. Usually, I reach in and turn it by hand.
#16
The trick I've found is to poke a hole when I start the drain, when it's all done stick an oil rag down around the bottom of the filter and as I twist it off take the rag with it. I've gotten oil leakage down to a minimum/non-existent.
#17
Once you get the old one off with whatever method mentioned above, buy a K&N Oil filter. The K&N filter has a normal hex bolt head on the end of the filter and if you couldn't get it off with your hand you can just use a socket set. Plus a K&N filter is a really great filter.
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I don't know of their filetering abilities, per se, but the frams with the sticky black handguard are easy to use by hand as well. I know my father's construction company ran Fram everything for years, but I haven't checked on them for my 8.
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I got a filter wrench and was able to remove the Mazda filter no problem.
I decided to go with the Fram filter PH6607 and Castrol GTX 10w-30. It needed EXACTLY 5qt's of oil because I have the Greddy oil pan.
I decided to go with the Fram filter PH6607 and Castrol GTX 10w-30. It needed EXACTLY 5qt's of oil because I have the Greddy oil pan.
#21
if you go buy yourself some "hp-1008" oil filters. made by k&n engineering. they have a nut at the top of the filter that you can easily fit a metric socket on.(as said above...except i gave you the k&n part number)
yamajj
yamajj
Last edited by yamajj; 10-17-2007 at 08:22 PM.
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#24
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I have used the screwdriver method probably about 10+ times. Usually the first oil change after a rebuild (when the motor is out of the car you tend to over torque it because it is SOO much easier to put on because you do not have to twist your arm through everything else when it is installed). I seem to do this on 1/2 of the rebuilds that I do and that first oil change can be a bitch
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