Smileynh

For the most part, get good snow tires. Don't use the stock summer tires below 40 degrees(they are useless at 40 degrees F if they get wet, think car wash and onramp guardrail) or in snow unless you like body damage. That said I have 18" snows, maybe I should have 17's. I've only had one bad day. I turned onto the hill linked below at the top of main st. in nashua, nh. The road was 8 inches of semi-packed crud. The worst possible conditions. Because of traffic and the turn I had no momentum.

The 8 stopped and I was going nowhere with people just driving by me. I turned off all traction control and got the car to 30 mph without moving. Frustrated beyond belief and knowing people in the 1970's used to make it up this hill, RWD and w/o hightech snow tires. I tried again. 1st gear 30 mph, second gear to 55 still not moving, 3rd I hit 70/75mph and finally moved. Very slowly and with great drama up to the top of the hill.

My wife and her SUV have banned me from driving in crud. :P NH

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=e...HILbtS_kYdmLcg

Jethro Tull

iTrader: (6)

Well, there's the difference. I bought and insure my 8 as a recreational vehicle, not a DD.

The insurance is reasonable to begin with, both because the car is classed as 4-door sedan and my age (I finally made it to the 'good' demographic, lol). I'm allowed 5,000 miles a year insured as an RV.

When parked for the winter, collision coverage can be suspended, meaning a very minimal premium. If something comes up and I need the car after all, a phone call to the agent re-activates the collision coverage.


My DD is a '91 Explorer, long since paid for and minimally insured.
I drive slightly less than you. I've had my car for 17 months and still have less than 6600 miles on the odometer. In the Explorer, I commute less than 5,000 miles per year.

KKMmaniac

Jethro Tull - I'm with you on the rust concern. In fact, having had blistering appear on the inside rear fender edges and under the gas filler door at the seam, as well as rust in various seams of the underbody after driving my RX8 during three Minnesota winters, I'd say your concerns are well founded. Especially considering the number of times I washed the car to prevent this.

At least when I bought my RX8, nothing was indicated in brochures or other information about the car with regard to rust-proofing measures, which made me nervous. I think Mazda went on holiday on this point. (sorry to keep bitching about this but it's hard to have as much pride in an otherwise impressive vehicle when it's rotting away like an old chevy)

Jethro Tull

iTrader: (6)

I think some people tend to minimize the corrosive properties of brine. It can become extremely concentrated in the nooks and crannies, as the water evaporates, leaving the salt behind, to be added-to next time the car drives through salty slush. Any compromise to a "rustproofed" surface, a pit, scratch, abrasion-even a manufacturing defect- will allow the rust to establish a toe-hold.

Some cars also have a self-destructive rust problem built right in. Since the entire metal subassembly of the car functions as an electrical ground, sometimes electrolytic corrosion, enhanced by road brine, takes an accellerated toll. This kind of rust can progress at an alarming rate.

Nobody preaching "modern technological advances" in rustproofing can make me change my ways. I've been in manufacturing for 30 years, and I know there is no such thing as a corrosion-proof metal.

Thanks for that post, KKM. I'm keeping my 8 off the road in winter.

RotoRocket

iTrader: (1)

If you guys are noticing corrosion on the 8, you have a 10 year/100k mile warranty, right?

I know I do.

I will take a closer look at my car the next time I hoist it.

I am not saying you're right or wrong. If there's any corrosion on my 8, Mazda will fix it. There is a qualifier of 'rust through' that automakers attempt to make stick, but if you can show that this will be an inevitably as the main defense has failed, and catastrophic oxidation has beseiged the metal, you're 90% there.

I've been round and round with automakers on Magnusson-Moss, warranty and state 'lemon law' claims, personally, and on behalf of clients.

I won numerous cases against Toyota before they officially (but begrudgingly) acknowledged (and settled) their infamous engine sludge issue. By 'acknowledge,' I mean that they acknowledged the allegations, settled the claims, but never conceded the motor design suffered any design defect.

Jethro Tull

iTrader: (6)

I'll concede your point that an owner could come out on top if rust is presented as a covered warranty issue, but for me, the 90 or so days the car is off the road isn't a handicap. The roads are terrible anyway, and other drivers can't drive safely in snow. My Explorer has 4WD, gets mileage as good as the 8 (V-6), and is already rusted. I avoid the rust and sandblasting effects on the Mazda (this is probably going to be the last BN car I every buy and want it to last), don't have to pay for a second set of rims and winter tires, have peace of mind, and would prefer not having to go head-to-head with a manufacturer or dealer on a warranty issue.

But if I ever do, RR, I will definitely be contacting you for advice.

KKMmaniac

I'll have to check my warranty RotoRocket. I was told by the dealer (in late April) Mazda wouldn't cover my rust issue because my car is out of the warranty period. (the car was purchased July of 2003 and now has about 42,000 miles)

As far as repair is concerned, what can Mazda really do besides grind off surface rust and repaint? I think it would only be a matter of (a short) time before the rust would come back.

I do think the RX8 is designed such that moisture (and salt) collects in areas the wash nozzle can't reach. I hope to pull the fuzzy fender liners off soon and have a look.

Descent

Question about winter tires-

Most people who say they're driving with winter tires are using 17"s. I was planning on getting some aftermarket wheels and using my stock 18"s for snow tires. Is 18" snows a bad idea?

amstarvid

I have used Dunlop wintersport M3's on 18" Kazera rims for 3 winters. We have a decent amount of snow here, and in my experience, had no problems. I understand the idea of 17"s to throw off more snow and all, but honestly if it's that deep, I don't think you're going anywhere. The ride height of the 8 limits you far quicker than tire size would. I didn't like the look of 17's, did some research, found that others were doing fine with 18's, and have not been sorry.

stingthieves

I have a set wheels with nuts and Blizacks - from my 08 that I junked in June

Ill sell them soon as I cannot find a decent new replacement 08 -

Anyone near Milwaukee that wants em before I put the set on ebay?

djkrazy

i live in chicago and my first year when i had my 8 i thought .... whatever i can drive it in the snow .... helllllll no ...... o\its ok when there is a little bit snow but there was a blizzard and i thought i can drive it ...... it took me 30 mins to go two houses over and another 30 mins to drive back to my house ..... backward and trust me ... the houses are right next to each other

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

It's all in the tires. The OEM tires are summer only. Get a good set of M&S All-Season or Snow tires and you are OK.

RotoRocket

iTrader: (1)

Okay, pursuant to my discussion with Jethro, I went and checked the warranty.

On all 8s so far, including '09 model year, corrosion warranty is 5 years/unlimited miles.

So, you'll be out of warranty 5 years +1 day from the date of original purchase. That sucks if you bought in July '03.

Here's how Mazda defines coverage: "Rust or Corrosion Warranty: This warranty covers the vehicle's sheet metal, and protects you from rust and corrosion that are severe enough to cause a hole - surface rust is not covered. However, if you keep your car washed and waxed rust shouldn't be a problem."

You still may be able to argue that the rust existed before you warranty ran out (the 5 years), and it would help if your dealer could somehow vouch for this, but yeah, your not in a good spot.

Guy Hollywood

Just bought my 04' in May of this year. Winter is coming soon and I had been wondering what I was going to do. This thread helped clear things up a little. However, my current tires are getting worn down, so I was thinking about replacing them soon. Should I buy new summer tires, AND a set of winter tires?? I could always just cut off one of my arms to pay for them all lol

altspace

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guy, welcome aboard. I live on Cape Cod. I have a set of 17" ASA wheels with Dunlop Winter Sports that work great in cold weather. If snow is too deep I use my Jeep. Hope to see you around. Introduce yourself in the regional thread.

greg985

great advice

djkrazy

my solution for driving in the winter with my rx8 ..... i bought a suv

Blackmobile R3

LMAO!

KKMmaniac

RotoRocket:

"...However, if you keep your car washed and waxed rust shouldn't be a problem."
That's right; it shouldn't be, sez I.

Yeah, it's a 5-year unlimited warranty for perforation. Other rust is covered under the general warranty which has long since expired. I bet if I had driven it the additional two winters there would be perforation. I think the 5-years is well timed to prevent legitimate claims.

Anyway, too bad for me. I'll just have to try to remove the rust and prime/undercoat the areas myself since Mazda won't admit this weakness.

Hear that Mazda? Try learning about corrosion preventitive measures, willya?

Robonaut

So, what exactly are "winter rims"?

Enquiring minds want to know.

djkrazy

stock rims .... if you are gonna do there snow tired route

ken-x8

Not a bad idea, but 17" is a better idea for two reasons. One is that a narrow taller tire will do better in snow than a wide one. The other (and probably bigger) is cost. If you're buying a set of winter tires and wheels, 17" is considerably cheaper than 18". Just go to Tire Rack's web site and compare the prices of the same tires in equivalent 17" and 18" sizes.

But if you're upgrading your wheels and will have the old ones laying around, that can change the cost balance.

Ken

neXib

I'm looking to buy some 18" wheels and blizzaks from the US for my car, if I love the rims I can change with summer wheels next year if I want. We don't have that many weeks with snow as I live near the coast, but due to slippery asphalt which gets undercooled they salt like a ton daily. 15km on the freeway and the car is grey on the sides. So I'm a bit concerned about the rustproofing. My car is a US import, and I don't know if they do less of this than they do with european production vehicles. Anyone got an idea? My car has no warranty as it is an import, so it's more important for me.

altspace

iTrader: (2)

Check out my winter/snow vids. http://altspacerx8.blogspot.com/

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Same here JT. I'm pretty **** about my 8's cleanliness in the Summer; I can't imagine all the cleaning that would be required in the Winter and especially difficult in freezing temps!!

That's what Jeeps are for.