Rx8 warranty ending soon
03-19-2013, 10:56 AM
#26
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Thats promising although the problems I've had only occur sometimes. The check engine lights comes on periodically and same with rough idle
03-20-2013, 12:44 PM
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My rx8 only have slight problems and threw no codes and failed the compression test. They already authorized a new engine and ordered it. I would definitely take yours in
03-20-2013, 10:13 PM
#30
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
03-21-2013, 02:18 AM
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Best decision i made last may 2 weeks prior to the end of the warranty!
The reman didn't cost me anything....and i received a full refund check for the compression tests performed prior to thenew engine replacement confirmation!
DO it!
The reman didn't cost me anything....and i received a full refund check for the compression tests performed prior to thenew engine replacement confirmation!
DO it!
03-21-2013, 09:57 PM
#34
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
I heard and read that you still have to pay some out of pocket expenses like the coils, plugs, and wires (not included with the warranty on the engine), and the catalytic (if i'm not mistaken)...so, that is going to be somewhere around a thousand dollars plus...
03-21-2013, 10:12 PM
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After watching a few short videos of rx8 acceleration youtube videos I noticed my engine was definitely bad. I had trouble getting up past 90 on flat ground and I though it was just terribly slow
03-21-2013, 10:38 PM
#37
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
03-21-2013, 10:55 PM
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03-23-2013, 12:38 AM
#39
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
03-23-2013, 07:36 AM
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Reliability with new or rebuilt engines is the luck of the draw. They're assembled by hand, so it just depends on how well the assembler does their job. That's both in deciding whethe to use new or used parts, and in how well they fit the seals. Also how much sealant they put between the parts...there are incidents of them using too much.
This site has enough tales of blown engines - new and reman - to make you throw up your hands in dispair. Pretty much like the tales of everything else on this car. Nobody outside of Mazda knows the actual statistics of failure. Just recognize that you've now got a blown engine, which puts you at zero, and Mazda will replace it with the best they can do.
You should download a copy of the service bulletin that goes along with the engine warranty. That should spell out details like whether Mazda covers the cost of the compression test.
Ken
03-23-2013, 03:26 PM
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If you mean things like updating the oiling system to something similar to Series II, no. That can't be done.
Reliability with new or rebuilt engines is the luck of the draw. They're assembled by hand, so it just depends on how well the assembler does their job. That's both in deciding whethe to use new or used parts, and in how well they fit the seals. Also how much sealant they put between the parts...there are incidents of them using too much.
This site has enough tales of blown engines - new and reman - to make you throw up your hands in dispair. Pretty much like the tales of everything else on this car. Nobody outside of Mazda knows the actual statistics of failure. Just recognize that you've now got a blown engine, which puts you at zero, and Mazda will replace it with the best they can do.
You should download a copy of the service bulletin that goes along with the engine warranty. That should spell out details like whether Mazda covers the cost of the compression test.
Ken
Reliability with new or rebuilt engines is the luck of the draw. They're assembled by hand, so it just depends on how well the assembler does their job. That's both in deciding whethe to use new or used parts, and in how well they fit the seals. Also how much sealant they put between the parts...there are incidents of them using too much.
This site has enough tales of blown engines - new and reman - to make you throw up your hands in dispair. Pretty much like the tales of everything else on this car. Nobody outside of Mazda knows the actual statistics of failure. Just recognize that you've now got a blown engine, which puts you at zero, and Mazda will replace it with the best they can do.
You should download a copy of the service bulletin that goes along with the engine warranty. That should spell out details like whether Mazda covers the cost of the compression test.
Ken
03-31-2013, 11:25 AM
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I have 05 MT as well, brought it to the dealership 2 weeks ago for a compression test and to check out a couple other things as i thought i was still under warranty. My test results were in the lows 6's for the front rotor and mid 7's for the rear. Dealer said anything below 7.5 is below spec. Now when he went to contact a mazda rep about the warranty and compression results the rep told him i was a couple weeks past the end of the factory warranty??? and you guys with 05's got your engines replaced just now still under warranty? I had to pay for the compression test too...
Last edited by rx8maine-iac; 03-31-2013 at 11:29 AM.
04-01-2013, 07:58 AM
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I have 05 MT as well, brought it to the dealership 2 weeks ago for a compression test and to check out a couple other things as i thought i was still under warranty. My test results were in the lows 6's for the front rotor and mid 7's for the rear. Dealer said anything below 7.5 is below spec. Now when he went to contact a mazda rep about the warranty and compression results the rep told him i was a couple weeks past the end of the factory warranty??? and you guys with 05's got your engines replaced just now still under warranty? I had to pay for the compression test too...
04-01-2013, 03:19 PM
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I got an extended warranty when I bought it so I'm still covered under that. Should only cost me $100 for a new engine. They are sending out one of their adjusters to see another compression test done and verify the low compression and then I should be all good. Ill let you guys know how I make out
04-01-2013, 04:26 PM
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I got an extended warranty when I bought it so I'm still covered under that. Should only cost me $100 for a new engine. They are sending out one of their adjusters to see another compression test done and verify the low compression and then I should be all good. Ill let you guys know how I make out
04-04-2013, 02:35 PM
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Engine was free no charge but then I asked the mechanic over the phone what oil do they use or reccommend and they said we use castrol synthetic blend???!!! I thought my warranty would be voided cause i used synthetic now they go and put some more in the new one?
04-04-2013, 02:43 PM
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Surprise!
It's what's we been telling people for... a decade now, and owners and mechanics and dealers have been misinterpreting for the entire time despite our best efforts.
Mazda CAN NOT void your warranty because you use synthetic oil. The specific line in question is "Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil". This is not a prohibition against it, and when pressed Mazda released a statement to the effect of: "We have not tested it, so we can't recommend it." This is a lack of a positive recommendation for, which does not mean that it is an active recommendation against.
It just means that they won't tell people that they should use synthetic. They won't tell you that you can't either.
Any dealer that tells you otherwise is misinterpreting the statement, same as you just did.
Oil analysis test on this forum show that non-synthetic oils tend to lose their viscosity around 2,500 miles since last change, where as synthetics hold up longer and produce less bearing wear.
The theorizing about synthetic vs non synthetic burning quality is largely just theory mongering, since no one has bothered to actually test which one burns cleaner.
It's what's we been telling people for... a decade now, and owners and mechanics and dealers have been misinterpreting for the entire time despite our best efforts.
Mazda CAN NOT void your warranty because you use synthetic oil. The specific line in question is "Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil". This is not a prohibition against it, and when pressed Mazda released a statement to the effect of: "We have not tested it, so we can't recommend it." This is a lack of a positive recommendation for, which does not mean that it is an active recommendation against.
It just means that they won't tell people that they should use synthetic. They won't tell you that you can't either.
Any dealer that tells you otherwise is misinterpreting the statement, same as you just did.
Oil analysis test on this forum show that non-synthetic oils tend to lose their viscosity around 2,500 miles since last change, where as synthetics hold up longer and produce less bearing wear.
The theorizing about synthetic vs non synthetic burning quality is largely just theory mongering, since no one has bothered to actually test which one burns cleaner.
04-04-2013, 02:50 PM
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Surprise!
It's what's we been telling people for... a decade now, and owners and mechanics and dealers have been misinterpreting for the entire time despite our best efforts.
Mazda CAN NOT void your warranty because you use synthetic oil. The specific line in question is "Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil". This is not a prohibition against it, and when pressed Mazda released a statement to the effect of: "We have not tested it, so we can't recommend it." This is a lack of a positive recommendation for, which does not mean that it is an active recommendation against.
It just means that they won't tell people that they should use synthetic. They won't tell you that you can't either.
Any dealer that tells you otherwise is misinterpreting the statement, same as you just did.
Oil analysis test on this forum show that non-synthetic oils tend to lose their viscosity around 2,500 miles since last change, where as synthetics hold up longer and produce less bearing wear.
The theorizing about synthetic vs non synthetic burning quality is largely just theory mongering, since no one has bothered to actually test which one burns cleaner.
It's what's we been telling people for... a decade now, and owners and mechanics and dealers have been misinterpreting for the entire time despite our best efforts.
Mazda CAN NOT void your warranty because you use synthetic oil. The specific line in question is "Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oil". This is not a prohibition against it, and when pressed Mazda released a statement to the effect of: "We have not tested it, so we can't recommend it." This is a lack of a positive recommendation for, which does not mean that it is an active recommendation against.
It just means that they won't tell people that they should use synthetic. They won't tell you that you can't either.
Any dealer that tells you otherwise is misinterpreting the statement, same as you just did.
Oil analysis test on this forum show that non-synthetic oils tend to lose their viscosity around 2,500 miles since last change, where as synthetics hold up longer and produce less bearing wear.
The theorizing about synthetic vs non synthetic burning quality is largely just theory mongering, since no one has bothered to actually test which one burns cleaner.
04-04-2013, 02:59 PM
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Keep in mind one fact: Your stock oil system is trying to use 1 oil for 2 entirely different jobs:
1) Lubricate the e-shaft bearings (High pressure, high heat, high sheer environment)
2) Cool and lubricate the side seals (No pressure, incinerating heat, low sheer environment)
No, the viscosity of the oil that you inject into the housing to cool the side seals has no impact on how long the side seals or apex seals last. The fact that it is dirty 4-stroke is FAR FAR FAR more harmful to the seals than the viscosity or type.
If you want to help make your seals last longer, then convert to injecting only clean 2-stroke oil via a SOHN adapter. 2-stroke oils are designed to lubricate even as they are burned off. 4-stroke is not designed to be burned at all.
The type and viscosity of oil in your engine only really matters for the bearings on the e-shaft, with the sheering and stress that it sees. For that, our engines are closer to diesel engines in how abusive it is on the crankcase oil. Diesel oil actually does well, although if you use it with a cat in your exhaust it will kill your cat quite fast. Synthetics hold up better than non synthetics.
Synthetic Mobile 1 0w40 has consistently had the best oil analysis results from members here.
1) Lubricate the e-shaft bearings (High pressure, high heat, high sheer environment)
2) Cool and lubricate the side seals (No pressure, incinerating heat, low sheer environment)
No, the viscosity of the oil that you inject into the housing to cool the side seals has no impact on how long the side seals or apex seals last. The fact that it is dirty 4-stroke is FAR FAR FAR more harmful to the seals than the viscosity or type.
If you want to help make your seals last longer, then convert to injecting only clean 2-stroke oil via a SOHN adapter. 2-stroke oils are designed to lubricate even as they are burned off. 4-stroke is not designed to be burned at all.
The type and viscosity of oil in your engine only really matters for the bearings on the e-shaft, with the sheering and stress that it sees. For that, our engines are closer to diesel engines in how abusive it is on the crankcase oil. Diesel oil actually does well, although if you use it with a cat in your exhaust it will kill your cat quite fast. Synthetics hold up better than non synthetics.
Synthetic Mobile 1 0w40 has consistently had the best oil analysis results from members here.