MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

Hello, I came on the forum a couple months ago asking about a automatic to manual swap. I have since done this swap and had been diving the car as a 4 port 6 speed car. I recieved a new reman 6 port engine on tuesday. I did the engine change and I seem to be having some wiring issues. Most of the wiring is pretty simple/obvious as to where is goes, but the injector wires and the coolant temperature sensor seem to be throwing me. I finished the car and It runs as if it is cross wired. I double checked my plug wires and replaced the plugs. Also, my temerature hand is not working in the car, which leads me to believe there is something crossed up. I have an extra plug that I can not figure out what it goes to, its a gray plug as are the injector and temperature sensor plugs. So my question is how do I define the injector and temperature sensor wires from the rest? And has anyone else had a issue with an extra plug in? I have looked the engine over countless times (while it was out and setting in the cradle) and could not find another place for it to plug in. One other thing, I noticed that both rotor housings appear to be the same which means they are both tap'd for what appears to be a knock sensor above the plugs. Does the 6 port require 2? It has been about 2 months since I tore the old 6 port down and can not remember part of this, so if anyone has help I would greatly appreshiate it. Sorry for the poor written article, I was typing as it came to me LOL :-)

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

Bump. Now that I rewired the injectors my car is idleing decent, but the when i add more acceleration to it, it's shooting flames out the pipes about a foot to 3 foot out, yeah! Still need to know about the knock sensors and need any info on how I can fix this problem.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Throw up a couple of pictures..that will help us figure it out...where is the "un-plug"

MrWankler

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Alright so I went threw the wiring again, started it and took some video. I AM SORRY about the video flipping... Wasnt thinking about it at the time haha! Any help would be greatly appreshiated!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlGWnWtk9SE

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You definitely have some issues....

re-check wiring...

Do you have a scan tool? Check for codes....
What are the ST and LT trims....

What do you have for injectors?

Check for vac leaks....

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

Just bumping this up to keep this alive as we still need answers. As of now the car does not start at all, it will act like it, but wont actually take. Refer to video in above post. --MR

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

I would recheck yoru injhector wiring and make sure you ahve the right injectors in the right spots. I myself had the injectors riss crossed and was having starting issues and some similer issues to this. If you dont have a wiring diagram to show you which wires go to which injectors i can post up the colors for ya. once i verified the fuel side of things then i would move on to other troubleshooting

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

Another thought, that "other plug" if it goes to the OMP and its not plugged in it will not let you go over a certain REV. Kinda like a fail safe mode. If you posted up a pic of the plug and wiring its attached to someone could prolly let ya know where it goes.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There are so many potential areas that it could be this is difficult to tell you where to start

Re-check all the wiring....did you figure out what the extra plug was yet?

What did you do RE: wiring ..use the engine harness and the ECU from the donor car? If it cranks it shouldn't be the immobilizer....

double and triple heck your wiring..if you need a wiring dia I have the .pdf that should cover most of it...it's an 04 dia..but most will be the same

Did you scan for codes???

PS: I would seem you are running really rich and have flooded it..so that will be a problem as well

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

I did figure out what the extra plug went to... It was the temperature sensor wire (somehow I over looked it) But yea I have a wiring diagram from ALLDATA that I have checked the injectors by. I had the intake off of it 5 times checking it yesterday. I double and triple checked the wiring but still have found nothing that seems to be out of whack. One thought however is this... I had my car set up as a 4 port 6 speed car, while I was doing this I was using the same 6 port ECU that I am currently running in the car. By anychance could my ECU have addapted or remapped its self in an attempt to accomadate the 4 port engine which was running very lean? So what I am thinking is this... If the ECU recognized it as running lean, then could it have adapted and changed the fuel curve to a much richer setting. Intern this would make it put to much fuel threw it with the correct engine...? The ECU has non volitile memory which means it will story past info... Anyone think this could be whats goin on? I used between 1/8-1/4 tank of fuel threw about 5-6 miles...

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

O yea, and if you could send me the pdf file I would appreshiate it greatly :-)

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Reset the ECU and you can rule that out...The limit of the fuel trims is +/- 20 % or so...so it should run in that realm if there is nothing else going on

Do you have a scan tool????????

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

http://www.mediafire.com/?nmrqtbgj2ro Engine control .pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/?5nn4qqnmm5o wiring .pdf

MrWankler

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I have like a 150 dollar el cheapo scan tool... it wont connect to the car. So I have a guy comming down in about a hour that has a MAC Genisis (if I spelled it correctly)... So we are gonna see what codes are thrown and try to eliminate that.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

That will help for sure...if there are no codes it gets trickier...but you can look for fuel trims and other things that can point to things you want to check

Are you sure the injectors are correct..none have been altered or anything?

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

I dont want to say im 100% sure, but I would say 99%... I have checked them several times, hopefully the codes will turn up some insight into the issue. I feel like im on my way to being a RX8 mechanic! lolz

Mawnee

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

Alright, so I fixed the problem and car runs great, I mis read the wiring diagram... Only issue I have rite now is that the idle is a bit rough... Not terrible but seems like it has maybe a vacum leak. I was wondering what the vacum hose that is located behind the throttle body on the intake goes to? (if you are looking at the engine from the front it will be on the right side of the intake... I believe it has a T on it... But yea I would say that my car has successfully been converted from a automatic to a 6 speed... and yea why would you bring up past posts man? I did the swap which is a much larger undertakeing that most on this forum would undertake, no disrespect intended but yea everyone knows that it is true. I GREATLY appreshiate everyones help!!! would have been tough without RX8club... So now my debait is should I powder coat my wheels gloss or matt black?!?!?! and 75 shot or 100 shot?

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

If your talking about the plastic nipple molded into the bottom driver side of the intake by the TB, that would go to the factory VFAD. If you have the stock airbox removed, jsut cap the nipple coming off the intake and call it good.

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

Alright, So the car runs good, but as I said before it has a rough idle and will die on occasion. I checked the codes today and it showed a random misfire, vacum leak, and running lean... Alright so here is what im thinking... I have a AEM cold air intake, I pluged it into a mac mentor and it showed the ambient air temp as being -40... So I swapped mAf sensor (had an extra) and it showed being fine on the computer. Showed about 60 degrees after changing it (I had been using the other mAf sensor before and it ran fine) So does the AEM cold air intake come with a mAf sensor that puts more fuel to the engine... with it showing a ambiant air temp of -40 it would be putting more fuel to the engine. With it showing a lean code it makes me wonder if this is the cause? Also, I know the problem with the vacum leak (as in the earlier post Phish helped me out there) I just need to go get a cap to put on it and stop it. Im assuming the random misfire is due to the idle dropping low and it almost dieing therefore in theory I believe I have all my issues solved. So let me know if you agree or disagree with what I have said. Also I am kinda looking to buy the GT kit to put on the car if anyone has one they want to sell... Also, I have ALOT of parts due to having a parts car so hit me up if you need anything (I have one sunvisor but it is supposed to be sold... I know this is common). I will sell parts cheap! Local pick up only...

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

No MAF shoudl be giving readings that are off to my knowledge. It should always read correctly as car as air temp goes.

what color is your parts car and where are you located.

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

I am from central kentucky, the parts car is black, only panel on it that is good (without being either fixed or painted) is the driverside rear door. It was spun out and swapped ends, didnt take like one real good hit, just took it all around. Also, does anyone have a pic of a red car with the factory wheels that have been powder coated? lol I have googled it but came up with nothing. Does anyone have experiance with the stick on blackout covers or does someone offer an actual plastic one?

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

You know how hard it is to find a Nordic Green parts car lol.

As far as your pic. i am sure there are pics on the forum. I would try searching over the apearace/cosmetic section.

MrWankler

iTrader: (3)

Nortic green? dang... I have never saw one in real life. I have the red chinka (I believe is what is called... metalic red...)