Hi folks,

Back again - me and dad have just finished removing old seized engine and fitted refurb block.

Did this over a few weeks due to time constraints and parts arriving etc.

We discovered one plug which wasn't connected as pictured below, would appreciate if someone could tell us what this is and where is goes as we couldn't seem to find anywhere for it.

Unknown connector: https://goo.gl/photos/D519ENH2gpG2YeYQ8


We are also having crazy electrical problems and I have already searched and found that this is 99% of the time caused by a bad ground so I have a diagram for us to check all these. If anyone has any other suggestions in relations to the crazy electrics below I'd be happy to hear them.

Got everything in place and did the first turn of the key - firstly the radio was turning off and on rapidly at the first turn of key, at the second point the dials were going crazy at times but eventually settled - turned the key and the engine turned, started and went for a short while then cut out. We were able to start the car again and it idled poorly for a short while before shutting off. I think the end result of our endeavour is that mechanically everything is sound, but electrically there is a big problem probably caused by something small. My dad is very mechanically and technically minded but not electrically minded.

On a side note everything electric was sound at time of engine seizing.

Video of car starting (can hear electrics in engine bay going crazy and fans randomly came on):
Car starting from inside car (dials are normal prior to turning key):
Car with key turned to on position showing sporadic dials and electrical noises from inside engine bay (some of the hum is from the battery charger as low battery was one of the thoughts):
And lastly I tried the hazard lights... like something out of a horror movie:
At this point I disconnected the battery, left it on charge and headed home for food and sleep.

Look forward to replies from you knowledgeable folks

 

That mystery connector might be to the knock sensor. Sensor body is right above the rear trailing plug....and it might shut down if it isn't happy with the knock reading.

 

Thanks that might just be it - looked at a tear down guide and seen this which is the connector.





May be able to get looking at car tomorrow, plug that in and check all the grounds - I did notice the grounding plate close to the nearside wheel was not flush as it should be.

Unbolt knock sensor from rear rotor housing. Remove spark plugs. Use a 24mm socket to remove the oil pressure sending unit.

 

Went through all the photos I've taken throughout the removal and install and found it... not sure what it is but it looks important...






Oil pressure switch might be the one as it is near one of the main oil pipes

 

It's for the oil pressure switch on that side of the engine towards the upper-rear end

(Ignore read marking on the hose, I found the pic on a web search for something else)

 

https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/0...H1-18-501.html


But you might be able to get an aftermarket one from a local parts store if yours is missing or broken

 

Ok so we are up and running and driving. Ground nut on front beam under air box just needed tightened. I got the oil pressure sensor plugged in and then the car started, ran Smokey and wouldn't idle and showed there was no thermostat reading... So we plugged it in and all is good.

1 error code which I will post a pic of if anyone knows what could fix this. The cooling fan codes are as the relays have been switched to a mod to make the fans come on earlier. I have noticed that the engine/centre above exhaust feel hotter on both the old engine and new than it used to... The only change done was upgrading the coils but i am not sure if this would cause the temperature increase. Cat is already gutted - OBD is showing temps of 850 degrees celsius on the cat temp sensor when driving (Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1,Sensor 1))

Have checked sensor is connected ok, because the oil pressure sensor was missed the wires are quite near which may be having an effect?

 

Did you bolt the knock sensor back to the block?

 

Pretty sure that doesn't cause a code? I always thought it would have to be be an open circuit; unplugged, broken wire, or fail internally for that.