No, I have never heard of the knock sensor being an issue on these cars.

Fuel trims?
AFR?
MAF rate?
Did you check your injector wiring?
Did you check your injector grommets/cups/o-rings?

He can't get it to idle to get idle data.

How long total have you run the car? After I rebuilt my engine, I had to hold the throttle open from 2k-4k for like 10 minutes to keep it from dying. Eventually, it would idle. A few idling session later and the car would start, run, and idle like normal.... Car now pulls clean up to 8,200 with a ton of boost.

I would first start with a compression test using a regular tester and find out whats the highest compression you make in each rotor housing. Then I would hook a timing gun up to each spark plug wire to make sure you are getting normal spark at each plug.

Glws.

You really do need to do a compression test on it, even if its not the a rotary specific one. Hold the valve open and watch the needle. Just see if all the bumps are the same between faces and between front and rear rotors.

I think we all suspect what its going to tell you...but...its better than guessing.

Also, how much air is being forced out of the PCV when its running? That'll tell you something too.

100+ psi per face would be a good start. 90+ ok maybe for a fresh rebuild. Lower than that is cause for concern.

From my experience, anything above 90 psi on each rotor and you should be able to idle ok. Anything less than 80 psi and it will be hard to start. These numbers were on a REW, which is only 9:1.

You say you are discharging a thick white smoke, I would think after 20-30 minutes that all of the assembly lube would be burned off. It could be a water seal that didn't seal right, or maybe an oil control ring issue....

Have you checked fuel pressure?

That doesn't mean the pressure is within spec. If you keep striking out, I would get a cheap gauge and check it to be sure.

I mean. That sounds like a botched rebuil. Oil is supposed to stay in the engine regardless of what you do.

Time to get on the horn with the yahoo that rebuilt it and ask them WTF

Late update on rebuild
 

Update one the engine .Props to you guys .I took it back to the yahoo that built it and they found a cracked oil seal .they are coming good for it and replacing the seal and the rear iron because it got scratched from the cracked seal

Anyone have a rear iron for a 04 that's In very good shape . preferred in Canada

I'm back
 

So I literally just got the engine back yesterday. But now have all new issues. The light that looks like a red car with a key in it flashes fast when key turns to on and car doesn't turn over or even try to. My obd doents sync and i can't seem to get the oil needle to move with the 20 brake stomp. Do I need the dealer to flash the ecu?

Is this still the original ECU?
The fast flashing is the antitheft immobilizer system not liking the key you're using. The dealer could fix, but try another key if you can. It's weird that it would forget its key though...

Original ecu and original key. And I only got one key when I purchased the car unfortunately. Also clutch petal goes to the floor and stays there. I have to pick it up by hand.tried bleeding but nothing comes out of bleed screw except air. Was bleeding for 5 mins maybe still no fluid coming out. So Dead master or slave?

I mean that tells me the hydraulic line isn't even connected or the whole system is empty. I would start with the slave. The master would be leaking fluid all over the place and behind the clutch pedal if was that compromised. Did the shop put the engine back in or you did it yourself?

This is the second time putting the engine in. The first time was fine but they botched the rebuild and this time it's the clutch and the security light flashing. (so far). Also this is a diff engine that was running good but they did a V8 swap (puke). So they took this good engine and replaced all seals and gaskets with full rebuild kit. It's a Well established shop to I should say