Quality Issues
05-22-2012, 02:25 PM
#26
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
Actually, check the original sale date. My 2005 was first sold in September of 2006, meaning that it's 3 year bumper to bumper didn't expire till September 2009, over 4.5 years after it was built.
It's likely that over half of the 2009s and higher sat on the lot for quite a while before being sold, as the sales figures were VERY low. You could easily still be in the warranty, but you will have to do the digging on that. Calling MNAO with the VIN is the surest way, and might get you some help with the paint as well. Otherwise, a dealer can run the VIN for the existing warranty left of each warranty type.
And yes, that is the clear paint protectant layer. It's still not very common for it to begin pealing or flaking, but it is a relatively easy and cheap fix to stop it from spreading and re-seal that area. Less than $200 or so at a body shop.
It's likely that over half of the 2009s and higher sat on the lot for quite a while before being sold, as the sales figures were VERY low. You could easily still be in the warranty, but you will have to do the digging on that. Calling MNAO with the VIN is the surest way, and might get you some help with the paint as well. Otherwise, a dealer can run the VIN for the existing warranty left of each warranty type.
And yes, that is the clear paint protectant layer. It's still not very common for it to begin pealing or flaking, but it is a relatively easy and cheap fix to stop it from spreading and re-seal that area. Less than $200 or so at a body shop.
05-22-2012, 02:26 PM
#27
Registered
That clear coat chipping looks brutal, do you know if the car was involved in any accidents?
05-22-2012, 02:29 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: RVA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keep in mind the warranty is from when the original owner purchased the car so it is still worth checking with Mazda just in case your car was a late build or sat on the dealer's lot for awhile before being sold.
That clear coat chipping looks brutal, do you know if the car was involved in any accidents?
That clear coat chipping looks brutal, do you know if the car was involved in any accidents?
05-22-2012, 02:30 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: RVA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea, I think I'm going to have to take a trip up to the dealership and have them look at all these issues in person. I've called, but you know how that goes. Just annoying to have to do this in the first 4K miles I put on a car.
05-22-2012, 03:03 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: RVA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So are you referring to clear coat, because I wasn't aware of any other kind of protective layer besides clear coat. Just seems pretty bad for it to start peeling off at 30K miles. I'm afraid I'll fix it there and then it will start somewhere else like the other side of the car. $200 isn't really a cheap fix either.
05-22-2012, 03:39 PM
#33
300 miles and u need to add 1/2 quart?
unless you redline it at every single light there is no way u burnt that much.
and for the cpaint crack/chip, u sure it wasnt a result of a crappy paint job after an accident? clean car fax dont mean ****. my original bumper is broken, but never had paint crack like that and its couple years older than yours.
and as for high fuel consumption, if you redline it too much and never use ur 6th gear, of course u gonna use a lot of gas, u do know that if u take a lets see sti that u had, keep it at 5-6k rpm in 2nd gear all the time u will burn more gas than rx8. its just how it is the more and higher u rev, more gas u burn.
your car obviously had a problem b4 u bought it, and it was never fixed. not trying to defend our car, the fact is most if not all of us, assume if the car is operating/treated properly, never experienced any problems that u have.
unless you redline it at every single light there is no way u burnt that much.
and for the cpaint crack/chip, u sure it wasnt a result of a crappy paint job after an accident? clean car fax dont mean ****. my original bumper is broken, but never had paint crack like that and its couple years older than yours.
and as for high fuel consumption, if you redline it too much and never use ur 6th gear, of course u gonna use a lot of gas, u do know that if u take a lets see sti that u had, keep it at 5-6k rpm in 2nd gear all the time u will burn more gas than rx8. its just how it is the more and higher u rev, more gas u burn.
your car obviously had a problem b4 u bought it, and it was never fixed. not trying to defend our car, the fact is most if not all of us, assume if the car is operating/treated properly, never experienced any problems that u have.
05-22-2012, 03:54 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: RVA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
300 miles and u need to add 1/2 quart?
unless you redline it at every single light there is no way u burnt that much.
and for the cpaint crack/chip, u sure it wasnt a result of a crappy paint job after an accident? clean car fax dont mean ****. my original bumper is broken, but never had paint crack like that and its couple years older than yours.
and as for high fuel consumption, if you redline it too much and never use ur 6th gear, of course u gonna use a lot of gas, u do know that if u take a lets see sti that u had, keep it at 5-6k rpm in 2nd gear all the time u will burn more gas than rx8. its just how it is the more and higher u rev, more gas u burn.
your car obviously had a problem b4 u bought it, and it was never fixed. not trying to defend our car, the fact is most if not all of us, assume if the car is operating/treated properly, never experienced any problems that u have.
unless you redline it at every single light there is no way u burnt that much.
and for the cpaint crack/chip, u sure it wasnt a result of a crappy paint job after an accident? clean car fax dont mean ****. my original bumper is broken, but never had paint crack like that and its couple years older than yours.
and as for high fuel consumption, if you redline it too much and never use ur 6th gear, of course u gonna use a lot of gas, u do know that if u take a lets see sti that u had, keep it at 5-6k rpm in 2nd gear all the time u will burn more gas than rx8. its just how it is the more and higher u rev, more gas u burn.
your car obviously had a problem b4 u bought it, and it was never fixed. not trying to defend our car, the fact is most if not all of us, assume if the car is operating/treated properly, never experienced any problems that u have.
As for fuel consumption, I rarely ever redline the car. Maybe twice since I got it. I always use 6th gear when possible. I'm not 16 years old so I don't drive it like I stole it. I drive 7 minutes to work and home everyday so I'm not joy riding around the city or anything. Plus I live in the burbs where there are less lights than in a city.
Like I stated before the car drives fine and leaks no oil. So I don't see how you can say there was a problem before I bought it especially when it only had 27K miles on it and was service and sold to me from a dealership.
Again, you are using a condescending tone because you think I'm bashing RX-8's. I'm just stating the facts of my situation. If you can't reply with information that is of ANY use what so ever then just don't reply. I think I understand how an engine works and how rev's work with gas consumption.
05-22-2012, 04:01 PM
#37
just because the engine is not showing any kinds of external leaking it does not mean its not leaking oil internally. been there and done that on my fc which probably had a 25 year old engine with 212k on odo. when i open it the rubber in there just broke in pieces.
and when it happens, depends on how bad it is you migt not see or feel anything unusual.
you dont agreed it has a problem thats fine by me, you can check it at dealerships but if its oil control ring leak, they will not be able to find anything. only thing they can do is engine replacement(they are not allowed to open it at dealership, not like i would trust them anyway)
if the leak is not bad enough to cause a massive smoke at every startup, then the chances of u getting a replacement will be slim.
my fc engine smoke like **** if i dont drive it for a week or more, i let it sit for a month one time, when i start her up, it took a good 10 or 15 minutes before the smoke stops. car drives completely fine, oil consumption? oh man dont ask
thats why i said ur engine has a problem, just because it has 27k or 31k doesnt mean anything, **** happens all the time. happens to every manufacture out there
again, dont agreed? fine by me
and when it happens, depends on how bad it is you migt not see or feel anything unusual.
you dont agreed it has a problem thats fine by me, you can check it at dealerships but if its oil control ring leak, they will not be able to find anything. only thing they can do is engine replacement(they are not allowed to open it at dealership, not like i would trust them anyway)
if the leak is not bad enough to cause a massive smoke at every startup, then the chances of u getting a replacement will be slim.
my fc engine smoke like **** if i dont drive it for a week or more, i let it sit for a month one time, when i start her up, it took a good 10 or 15 minutes before the smoke stops. car drives completely fine, oil consumption? oh man dont ask
thats why i said ur engine has a problem, just because it has 27k or 31k doesnt mean anything, **** happens all the time. happens to every manufacture out there
again, dont agreed? fine by me
Last edited by nycgps; 05-22-2012 at 04:07 PM.
05-22-2012, 04:03 PM
#38
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
Note: Try to avoid taking offense to NYCGPS's posts 
2nd note: None of your issues are related to this, but your described style of driving the 8 is going to start causing problems at some point down the road. Carbon buildup is one of the biggest killers of rotary engines, and lots of low RPM driving will allow this carbon buildup to surpass reasonable levels, create sealing problems for the engine, and accelerate seal wear. It needs to run up to redline under load from time to time to help clear carbon and keep it clear. This doesn't mean constantly do that either, as you will start introducing other issues related to heat build up. It's a balanced selection of using both driving types that is needed.
After a winter of not being able to go full throttle under load, I can feel how much worse the engine is running, and on a clear dry day being able to take it out and really give it a wankle spanking produces a noticeably smoother idle, smoother revs.
2nd note: None of your issues are related to this, but your described style of driving the 8 is going to start causing problems at some point down the road. Carbon buildup is one of the biggest killers of rotary engines, and lots of low RPM driving will allow this carbon buildup to surpass reasonable levels, create sealing problems for the engine, and accelerate seal wear. It needs to run up to redline under load from time to time to help clear carbon and keep it clear. This doesn't mean constantly do that either, as you will start introducing other issues related to heat build up. It's a balanced selection of using both driving types that is needed.
After a winter of not being able to go full throttle under load, I can feel how much worse the engine is running, and on a clear dry day being able to take it out and really give it a wankle spanking produces a noticeably smoother idle, smoother revs.
05-22-2012, 04:09 PM
#39
Not normal for the paint.
I have an 04 that stays out in the sun, constantly gets hit by flying objects (pebbles and pieces of tire) on the road, and my paint still looks pretty damn good.
On another note...I wish I had to add oil between oil changes :/
I have an 04 that stays out in the sun, constantly gets hit by flying objects (pebbles and pieces of tire) on the road, and my paint still looks pretty damn good.
On another note...I wish I had to add oil between oil changes :/
05-22-2012, 04:30 PM
#45
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
If you break down the causes of engine failure, it can not have an impact on a few (cat failure, cooling system failure), can negatively impact a few more (side seal spring warp and overheating from extended high RPM), and there is anecdotal evidence from engine teardowns that extended low RPM lugging does indeed cause severe carbon buildup (which we know causes apex seal wear problems). This is primarily from engines off of automatic transmission cars, where we can presume (due to the nature of the transmission controller) that the vast majority of it's life was spent in lower RPMs. This continues the same thought lines as carbon problems in prior rotaries as well as even the carbon problems in piston engines (although piston engines are far less susceptible to failure because of carbon, due to where it builds up)
05-22-2012, 04:36 PM
#46
Registered
OP said interior was in sad shape for mileage. That's the first indication that previous owner was a slob and didn't care much for his/her car. I'd have walked away.
Mine is an 06 (manufactured 05) with 12k on the odo, parked outdoors half the time in snow, rain, baking sun. Still looks new. All it takes is sealant twice a year (spring and fall).
Mine is an 06 (manufactured 05) with 12k on the odo, parked outdoors half the time in snow, rain, baking sun. Still looks new. All it takes is sealant twice a year (spring and fall).
05-22-2012, 04:37 PM
#47
If you break down the causes of engine failure, it can not have an impact on a few (cat failure, cooling system failure), can negatively impact a few more (side seal spring warp and overheating from extended high RPM), and there is anecdotal evidence from engine teardowns that extended low RPM lugging does indeed cause severe carbon buildup (which we know causes apex seal wear problems). This is primarily from engines off of automatic transmission cars, where we can presume (due to the nature of the transmission controller) that the vast majority of it's life was spent in lower RPMs. This continues the same thought lines as carbon problems in prior rotaries as well as even the carbon problems in piston engines (although piston engines are far less susceptible to failure because of carbon, due to where it builds up)
05-22-2012, 04:48 PM
#48
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
05-22-2012, 10:27 PM
#49
Thanks for the pics. That is a bad paint job... Whether it's from the factory or not, would have to be determined by a body shop. Any quality body shop should be able to give you a quick answer to that question.
You say it's in front of the rear wheel? Do you have a shot of it further back so we can get some perspective?
You say it's in front of the rear wheel? Do you have a shot of it further back so we can get some perspective?
Last edited by Wingznut; 05-22-2012 at 10:35 PM.