Pure Conjecture As To How To Keep Renesis Healthy (YMMV): KISS Method
12-17-2013, 11:41 AM
#51
I don't agree with this. My experience says that overfilling the oil can be as bad as underfilling it. If it's slightly over, particularly on earlier cars, it's very easy for oil to travel through the filler neck breather hose and get sucked back through the air intake. This can gum up the filter, contaminate the MAF and throttle body, cause very rough running and has a small chance of causing serious engine damage. It's also a pain in the **** to clear up.
I would say best practice would be to keep oil about halfway between your top 2 marks, I.E around 2/3rds full.
I would say best practice would be to keep oil about halfway between your top 2 marks, I.E around 2/3rds full.
12-17-2013, 09:44 PM
#52
.
For those who wonder why the Renesis fails, I have for YEARS opined that the problem was/is loose tolerances in the OEM builds and I am fairly certain that those Renesis engines which have been properly clearanced and built have a far lower failure rate than do the factory builds or even the reman engines. For my own builds, the N/A and boosted engines seem to run and last equally well and the only time I have had major issues is when I have tried anything but OEM parts.
On the other hand, I don't expect people reading my opinions to believe me or care about what my opinons may be anyway as I am not a "high profile" engine builder. I do have a lot of BHR engines running around, though.
For those who wonder why the Renesis fails, I have for YEARS opined that the problem was/is loose tolerances in the OEM builds and I am fairly certain that those Renesis engines which have been properly clearanced and built have a far lower failure rate than do the factory builds or even the reman engines. For my own builds, the N/A and boosted engines seem to run and last equally well and the only time I have had major issues is when I have tried anything but OEM parts.
On the other hand, I don't expect people reading my opinions to believe me or care about what my opinons may be anyway as I am not a "high profile" engine builder. I do have a lot of BHR engines running around, though.
12-18-2013, 03:47 PM
#53
for example the side seal tolerance on the older engines (i'm more familiar with those) is 0.002"- 0.010" which is a big range, really if its apart and you're measuring its more like 0.002" - 0.004"
so you can build an engine in spec, and it still can be all over the place.
12-19-2013, 01:36 PM
#54
big difference in leakage area!
pretty sure a piston engine wouldn't run right with 0.030" ring gaps...
12-19-2013, 07:08 PM
#55
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I think 0w30 synthetic oil is the best oil for the Mazda rotary engine. It gets slightly better gas mileage
and cleaner emissions than a 5w20. It provides better engine protection than a 5w20 and because it is a thin zero weight oil it enables a clean burn in the combustion chamber without leaving deposits.
and cleaner emissions than a 5w20. It provides better engine protection than a 5w20 and because it is a thin zero weight oil it enables a clean burn in the combustion chamber without leaving deposits.
12-19-2013, 10:02 PM
#56
I think 0w30 synthetic oil is the best oil for the Mazda rotary engine. It gets slightly better gas mileage
and cleaner emissions than a 5w20. It provides better engine protection than a 5w20 and because it is a thin zero weight oil it enables a clean burn in the combustion chamber without leaving deposits.
and cleaner emissions than a 5w20. It provides better engine protection than a 5w20 and because it is a thin zero weight oil it enables a clean burn in the combustion chamber without leaving deposits.
"... We therefore recommend a quality 10/40 or 20/50 oil, the latter for racing and spirited driving."
RX-8 Recommendations | Pettit Racing
12-22-2013, 09:03 AM
#57
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I follow the book. Can't keep it more simple than that. 100k here, no problems of any kind. 5W20 every 5k, all fluids, filtration, etc are factory stuff, B coils last forever, don't wind it out cold, and don't shut it down cold. I drive at least 10 miles per outing. Keep an eye on the oil level. That's it!
01-08-2014, 03:13 PM
#58
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Mazda's 1991 victory at the Le Mans 24 hour endurance race proved that a synthetic lubricated rotary engine could be just as reliable if not more reliable than a piston engine.
However this racing engine used 2 different synthetic oils. A heavy weight 4 stroke synthetic oil for the engine and a lightweight 2 stroke synthetic oil for the combustion chamber.
Recently with the invention of clean burning zero weight synthetic oils, Mazda engineers where able to develop a universal synthetic 0w30 rotary engine oil that
However this racing engine used 2 different synthetic oils. A heavy weight 4 stroke synthetic oil for the engine and a lightweight 2 stroke synthetic oil for the combustion chamber.
Recently with the invention of clean burning zero weight synthetic oils, Mazda engineers where able to develop a universal synthetic 0w30 rotary engine oil that
01-11-2014, 02:30 PM
#61
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The advantage of a universal 0w30 synthetic oil is that there is no danger of misapplication. As soon as everyone starts using the official Mazda Synthe-Renesis oil or a good clean burning 0w30 equivalent, rotary engines will make a comeback because rotary engines will be just as reliable if not more reliable than piston engines. However if Mazda dealers continue to suppress clean burning 0w30 synthetic oil technology the rotary engine will die because of the reliability problems and the fuel efficiency problems of 5w20 petroleum oil..
01-11-2014, 02:35 PM
#62
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The advantage of a universal 0w30 synthetic oil is that there is no danger of misapplication. As soon as everyone starts using the official Mazda Synthe-Renesis oil or a good clean burning 0w30 equivalent, rotary engines will make a comeback because rotary engines will be just as reliable if not more reliable than piston engines. However if Mazda dealers continue to suppress clean burning 0w30 synthetic oil technology the rotary engine will die because of the reliability problems and the fuel efficiency problems of 5w20 petroleum oil..
Cooling system failures are a BIG problem. So is lugging the engine around at low speed all day every day. So is not topping off the oil at all. So is ignition failure that causes fuel wash. So is cat failure that stresses the seals. Etc... How would a 0w30 synthetic rotary oil help any of those?
Also, all consumer automotive oil is "synthetic", and all of it is petroleum based. Oils that are labeled "synthetic" just take longer to break down than oils that are not labeled "synthetic". It's just a marketing label that has nothing to do with actual properties of the oil.
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