PaPaBear

I am getting close to the end of my rope with Mazda. Re-built engine recently installed is hesitating 1000 through 1900 RPM's. Also smell something burning like oil, but no leaks. I took the car back yesterday. I asked how many re-builds that have been installed by my dealer that have come back. My Mazda Rep told me one other. When they installed my engine, I asked, how should I break the engine in. The Tech told me to run the hell out of it. I took others advice in this discussion group and treated the engine as I would any other new engine and drove it with care trying to keep my revs down. This obviously had no effect as this re-build is just as defective as the original after all the work has been done on it. New starter, new alternator, hell everything looks new under the hood. I wonder if anyone out there in this same situation has been successful in getting their RX-8 to run as it should.

RexApex

Don't know what you mean by hesitation, but the rotary doesn't really like running under load below 2k. 1900rpm is 7mph or so in 1st gear isn't it? I can't say my car ever ran smoothly at that speed. For that matter, most of the cars I've owned could hesitate idling under load.

NoTears316

I'm not mad at all. Hows your car doing? I drove mine to work today. Have a good one!

NoTears316

Financing a car for longer then the warranty, yeah technically he couldn't.

avwoody

There ya go Tears. Keep lashing out. Let that anger out. It should be theraputic for you!

AdRoCK3217

And what do you think takes longer to warm up - a block that has been sitting outside in 10-40* weather, or a block that has been sitting in a 70-80* garage, closed in all around, with no ventilation, wind, etc?


When in the garage, my car is completely warmed up in under 1 mile of driving under 3500rpm. When parked outside overnight, it takes at least 2-3 miles, driving under 3500rpm.

PaPaBear

The hesitation is almost like a piston engine missing. This means you have to ease the clutch a bit, which ultimately means more clutch wear. Before I took this car in for the 30,000 maintenance I could ease the clutch out without any hesitation. Now it's like you have to push the gas a little more and then press the clutch in a little and ease out. That was not the case prior to the maintenance and they told me that they had to make some changes in the roto or perhaps if necessary replace the engine under warranty. I do not want anything other than my baby to perform as it did prior to all this work being done. If these guys at Mazda cannot cure my 2004 problems, I will look at a new model and see what Mazda can do to ease the pain in putting me in a new RX8.
You see, I do not want anything else other than an RX8.
Thanks

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

my point was if he is pulling his car out of a heated garage and shutting it off right away because he thinks a garage temperature engine is "warm", then he's sadly mistaken

avwoody

Your point is understood however that was not the case except 1 time.
All other 12x were after the car had been driven awhile.

Razz1

Bad coils, water in fuel system

ASH8

Same thing came to me..

Load hesitation/dieing to is either fuel or electrics, if they have tested compression with reman engine and thats OK, then it cant be anything else.

God your dealer has replaced just about everything that effects fuel control/air mixture and its electrics..

Have they checked your fuel tank for contaminants even water, do you go to the same servo, same fuel, is the servo in a flood prone area.

Have you considered another dealer..

It must be bloody frustrating...Mazda NAO should step in here and replace your car if it can't be resolved.

Good luck.

BlueRenesis82

actually you were the one that maxed out the douchebag scale.

PhotoMunkey

Are they certain the intake is performing all of its various functions? Changing the intake runners while accelerating would do it. Also, have they looked at the throttle-by-wire sending unit at the gas pedal? This might not set a code, but a small electrical short in this device would play havoc with fuel delivery, and the ECM would simply think you were doing it with your foot.

PhotoMunkey

BTW-I live in the southwestern desert, and my car, which sits outside can be at operating temperature in just the distance around my housing complex, before reaching the main road. That's starting in the mid-50s in the mornings! I doubt warm-up is a culprit here. I'm leaning towards an electrical culprit.

Perhaps the plug or the wiring to the throttle control on the engine is faulty. Again, this might not set a code if it doesn't drop "out of value" completely. It could, however, allow the throttle plate to close and reopen, causing brief hesitations.

Question: Does it CONSISTENTLY act in the EXACT same manner in the EXACT location in the power band/gear? I.E. "I was driving normally in 2nd gear and as the needle passed 3500, the engine felt "flat", like it bogged down." This is different than "Oh, sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesn't."

BTW-About the flooding, did the car simply NOT start when cold? Again, perhaps, at cranking speed, a throttle pedal errant input could cause something funny to happen. I'm no master tech though, but I know that they follow checklists and IF something passes a test once, it doesn't mean that the part is good. It just means that it didn't fail at that particular time. Electrical gremlins are the worst to find as they deal with absurdly low voltage changes (0 to +5 volts usually) and even a momentary short can cause an ECU to "go into a protective mode" for a second until it figures everything is fine again. <Yoda On> Wierd disturbances in the Force, these new ECUs are... <Yoda Off>