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Motor oil for the 8: what 'The Car Doctor' (and Castrol) say…

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Old 02-14-2007, 03:49 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by puch96
quick question.... out of curiosity...
I use Mazda brand oil from the dealership instead of the Motorcraft Syntec Blend stuff.

Any idea who makes the Mazda brand oil?
I was told it was Castrol but I can't say with certainty that it really is.
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Old 02-14-2007, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BunnyGirl
I was told it was Castrol but I can't say with certainty that it really is.
I emailed MNAO to see if they can tell me... On the bottle it says that it is distributed by Mazda North America, so I'm guessing they should know???
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Old 02-14-2007, 04:35 PM
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5w20 is the energy saving grade, that's why they use it.
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Old 02-14-2007, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tmak26b
#1 Why 5W-20 in North America only? FUEL MILEAGE. 5W-20 is the hybrid of oil, they suppose to give you a .2% gain in gas mileage compare to 5w-30. Personally now i know what it is, I will probably switch back to a 5w30 for more protection in the summer. Heck, even higher grades in the hot days.
Me too. In Spain Mazda uses 5W30 but this summer I'll put 10W40.

#2 Castro Synthetic (Syntec), they are actually not real synthetic fluid. They are based out of group III oil, not group IV or V oil like RP or Redline or Amsoil. There has been debates about Mobil 1, I am still waiting on answers from them. With all that said, it is a GREAT oil. The only thing that **** me off is that I was paying $6 a quart for non-synthetic oil.
LOL, and you think that is bad, Mazda here has his own brand "Dexelia" which is in fact a group III Total/Elf made oil and they charge 13€ (THATS ***17$***) a liter (a little more than a quart.) I'm buying Royal Purple on internet from the USA and with shipping AND custom taxes I'm still only paying 4€/liter less!!

#3 My personal experience, why would you pour $6 into the rotary engine every 1000 miles when you can do the same job with oil that is half the price. With the oil change interval like hte RX-8, I say go with a regular oil. I put 120K miles on my last rotary engine, it had 170K when I sold it. All I did was change oil every 3K, check it every 750 miles. It used about one quart per 1500-2000. The RX-8 is eating it at 750-1250 miles per quart
Wow, 170K miles! I'm also change the oil (myself) every 3000 miles now but the specified interval here (and what 95% of the users do) is 12.000 miles or once a year. I let 6000 miles pass before my last oil change and it was jet black.
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Royal Purple use Group IV oil.
You may be right, but some have speculated that RP is a III/IV blend which is becoming a more popular and is what M1 recently reformulated to after claiming to be pure group IV for so many years.

Synthetic groups designations (III, IV, and V) are all an "oil type" designation, not a "quality" designation. It is possible for a group III to be a better oil than a group V and vice versa, depending on the total package of the oil.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:08 PM
  #56  
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"Exactly, point made. My point is why bother with the risk in a rotary when Dino oils are perfectly fine as long as you change your oil every 3k. Don't get all butt hurt dude. I am just tired of people jumping on the sythetic band wagon. To my knowledge no one here is a chemical engineer. Oh, and the guy that works at your school is making 70k a year so who is really the idiot?"

Man I really hate to bust your bubble but having a degree doesnt really make anyone a "guru". Especially an oil guru. My guess is that this guy, he is all book smarts. No real hands on experince with engines. Has he taken apart any rotary engine that has used synthetic? I dont want to jump in the middle of this because there is alot of experiance from people who can vouch for their experiance on what is good and what is not so I wont. No one that buys a rotary doesnt necessarily jumps on the synthetic bandwagon. Alot of owners come to their own decision on what they put in their cars. And way the hell do we care if he makes 70k a year?
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:43 PM
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Yup, just change it every 3000 miles with a new Mazda oil filter. keep an extra quart in the car at every 1500 miles, you should be good for many miles. NA rotaries are reliable, the users are usually hte problem.

here is an email I received from Mobil 1

Thank you for your inquiry,

To meet the demanding requirements of today's
specifications (and our customers' expectations) Mobil 1 uses
high-performance synthetic fluids, including polyalphaolefins
(PAO, groupIV),
along
with a proprietary system of additives. In fact, each Mobil 1
viscosity
grade uses a specific combination of synthetic fluids and
selected
additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its unique
requirement.

Mobil engineers are continually improving the product and the
Mobil1
formulation is improved frequently however it is still 100% synthetic.
Mobil1 motor oils are formulated and created like no other motor oil on
the market, it is very unique in nature and we are simply not willing
to
divulge any more information regarding our formulation than what is
stated above.

Consumers should focus on the end performance of a product not how we
get there. You don't pay for the basestock technology when you purchase
a $5-$6 qt. of motor oil, you pay for what the end product can give you
and deliver, it doesn't matter how you get there.

--
Thank you for choosing ExxonMobil products.
If you need further assistance, please contact ExxonMobil at
1-800-ASK-MOBIL

-Matt Jacob
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Old 02-14-2007, 08:08 PM
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I use Mobil 1 in my other cars. But not in my Rx8.
I am perfectly fine using regular dino oil and it's cheaper....
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Old 02-14-2007, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by puch96
I use Mobil 1 in my other cars. But not in my Rx8.
I am perfectly fine using regular dino oil and it's cheaper....
I would like to ask this to everybody like you.

Hey according to the logic of *Just change it every 3K miles you'll be fine* like some of the people here, if Dino oils are all that *perfectly* fine, why dont you just use it in ALL of your cars?

Since Dino oils are *as good* and *cheaper*. Why would you waste your money on Synthetic on even Non-Rotary Engine powered cars then ? Isnt that stupid ?
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Old 02-14-2007, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
I feel compelled to address certain issues in regards to the engine but especially about oils and which ones to use. There appears to be alot of speculation as to what is causing engine failures in the hotter climates and yet for some strange reason not many people are not willing to accept the high oil temperatures as the cause of the problem. This is what it is though so just accept it. I thought I'd list what I personally have found to work just fine in the rotary engine and then allow you to judge for yourself if you agree with me.

First off my choices of oils are these:
Conventional: Castrol and Havoline. That's it. Go check out the forum at www.bobistheoilguy.com I've actually liked and used both of these oils for some time now but only recently had confirmation by others that they were very good oils.

Synthetic: Amsoil and Royal Purple. I'm sure Redline is good too but I have no personal experience with it. I am very curious to try Shaeffers as in the tests I've seen it appears to be superior to all. I'll try this in the future.

Currently in all of my cars including the rotaries I am using Royal Purple 5W20. My Honda is supposed to use 5W20 but my rotaries typically use 20W50. I still use 5W20. I have had no problems whatsoever.

For oil fitlers I use Wix. They are easy to get and they are very nice. Tests have also proved them to be good as well. I wish I could find the link right now to the test.

Now as to the whole synthetic debate. Yes I use synthetic in my rotaries. They work great. I also don't want to hear the bs about how they are or are not usable in the older rotaries but are or are not acceptable in the Renesis engines. This is a crap excuse that Mazda tried to pass off when they couldn't make up their minds what to say. Synthetics work fine (better) in rotaries. They have less deposits in the engine and resist breakdown better. Don't be afraid to use them. Alot of people do. I found a Racing Beat catalog with alot of tech tips. I thought I'd share some of them for those of you who do not have the catalog. I'm going to focus on oil. Specifically in the areas of oil types and temperatures.

Page 66. Here are 2 paragraphs from "oil tips".

"Oil temperature is critical in rotary engines. Oil temperature entering the engine should never be allowed to exceed 210*F. While many factors affect oil temperature, oil cooler size and location are very important to consider. Roughly 1/3 of all engine heat rejected via the water and oil cooling systems goes out through the oil cooler. The oil cooler should get about 1/3 of the total cooling airflow."

"Another factor that inhibits heat transfer from oil is air bubbles that become trapped in the oil. Air acts as an insulator and reduces heat transfer. While rotaries have little tendency to foam the oil through windage in the oil pan, as do reciprocating engines, air is mixed with the oil as the oil moves through the rotors. By slowing the oil down as it returns to the pan, air is allowed additional time to separate from the oil. Our baffle plate is designed to perform this function."

It should be noted that the last sentence refers to the pre 3rd gen RX-7 cars as the 3rd gen and the RX-8 have a baffle built in. Thought those 2 paragraphs were interesting. Here's some excerpts from the "oil selection" part of the book.

Page 67. "Oil selection"

"The Mazda factory does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in their rotary engines- specifically addressing this issue in the "owners manual".

In 1979, Racing Beat began testing Amsoil synthetic lubrication products. Without a doubt, synthetic oils do perform well in extreme heat (over 300*F) and extreme cold (below 32*F), but by the nature of Mazda's rotary engine, the oil temperature never exceeds 250*F without severe engine damage due to other factors. In Southern California, we have difficulty seeing the low temperature benefits: however, when we put synthetic lubricants in the engine, transmission, and differential in our IMSA GTU race car, we immediately saw what we later found to be a common result: The oil temperature dropped 5* to 10*F for the same operating conditions. This is apparently due to two factors: reduced friction between sliding surfaces, and reduced foaming. As we continued to use synthetic oil products it became clear that they genuinely reduce wear."

That should take care of those arguments.

Page 67 continued...

In the '90s we tested Royal Purple Synthetic oil. In the very first test, this oil added more than 1% HP on a highly developed race engine. Since then we have seen that improvement and more in other applications, along with the low wear and reduced operating temperatures. There are 3 concerns with synthetic oils: 1) Higher cost; 2) the fact that it inhibits break-in period (so use mineral oil during the break in period); 3) and the fact that there is the potential for problems if you change to synthetic oil after years of using mineral oil. These problems are two-fold. First, synthetics sometimes cause rubber seals to swell after years of immersion in mineral oil, and second, synthetics tend to be high detergent by their nature, so changing to synthetics after many years of mineral oil use can cause beneficial carbon deposits to be scoured away, leading to high oil consumption. We believe that these are the reasons that Mazda does not recommend synthetics- even though their race team uses them."

The interesting thing about that paragraph is that it expresses several concerns that people have. As far as causing o-rings to swell, this may have been true at some point in the past but the Renesis seals are a different compound than earlier seals and will not swell. They are more tolerant. We don't want carbon deposits. We want less of them. Don't feel they are beneficial to you. They aren't. This was referring to older piston engines that have bad seals and are only being kept alive by the sealing that their carbon deposits have. They got this way due to carbon in the first place so just don't allow them to buildup in your engine.

Here is a neat passage on page 68 under their "oil pressure and temperature adapter". This sentence is extremely relevant.

"Normal oil temperature varies quite a bit depending on the operating conditions, but usually stabilizes between 140*F and 200*F. If the temperature exceeds 210*F, reduce the load on the engine immediately or shut it off. Continued operation above 210*F may damage the engine."

Back to oils again. This time from page 71.

"Racing Beat has recommending the use of synthetic oils in rotary applications for several years. Our research has found that synthetic oils provide superior friction reducing between sliding surfaces, reduced foaming, and lower oil temperatures. We have tested several different synthetic oils and have found that while most offered improved wear and lower oil temperatures, none offered any horsepower gains... except Royal Purple!"


I've been telling people what I personally like. Now I'm backing up my reasons with proof from others. By no means am I telling you that you should absolutely do it my way. Make your own decisions. As far as the engine failure debate, this should give some people something to think about in terms of their oil temperatures. There was one preson with dual oil coolers that recorded oil temps of 240+ degrees F. He had stated cruising oil temps closer to the low 200-210 range. This peak number scares me personally but people have said it isn't a bad thing. Think again! I really wonder what temps the single cooler guys are getting? Unfortunately to monitor oil temps, you need to install an aftermarket oil temp gauge. I wish more people would. I don't have one on my RX-7 but that car has much better oil cooling than the RX-8 so I'm not too concerned. What does this high oil temp mean for everyone? It means your oils will break down faster than in most other cars. Change them often along with the filters. Also use a good oil that resists breakdown and windage to help prolong the inevitable. Use a good synthetic. You know which one I like.

That's the end of my rant for now but please everyone do some oil research and come to your own conclusions for the right reasons.

IF I want to trust somebody on something, I'll make sure that the person Im listening to has ACTUAL EXPERIENCE in the field, not someone who just *famous*

In this case, if u want me to trust somebody, I will trust a well known rotary specialist like RacingBeat. Who was KNOWN to the public that they've been working on Rotary Engine for over 20-30 years. Not *oh this guy got his degree blah blah saids* and *oh my friend he is also oil guru blah blah blah saids*
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Old 02-15-2007, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
I would like to ask this to everybody like you.

Hey according to the logic of *Just change it every 3K miles you'll be fine* like some of the people here, if Dino oils are all that *perfectly* fine, why dont you just use it in ALL of your cars?

Since Dino oils are *as good* and *cheaper*. Why would you waste your money on Synthetic on even Non-Rotary Engine powered cars then ? Isnt that stupid ?
It's very simple, you can go longer with synthetic oil than dino oil. Here is a problem, the rotary BURNS oil. You don't get the cost benefit at all with synthetic in the RX cars. As far as protection goes, I havent seen any rotaries felling due to lack of engine wear protection. Lastly, there are less parts in the rotary engine than a piston engine!
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Old 02-15-2007, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by tmak26b
It's very simple, you can go longer with synthetic oil than dino oil. Here is a problem, the rotary BURNS oil. You don't get the cost benefit at all with synthetic in the RX cars. As far as protection goes, I havent seen any rotaries felling due to lack of engine wear protection. Lastly, there are less parts in the rotary engine than a piston engine!
Havent seen any ? *Sigh*

The recent recall HAS somethign to do with the side housing wear out. you can say that it has to do with Mazda's programming and nothing to do with Synthetic oil really.

And REMEMBER, there's some oil in the system if you just drain from the pan. about what 3 quart left?
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
I would like to ask this to everybody like you.

Hey according to the logic of *Just change it every 3K miles you'll be fine* like some of the people here, if Dino oils are all that *perfectly* fine, why dont you just use it in ALL of your cars?

Since Dino oils are *as good* and *cheaper*. Why would you waste your money on Synthetic on even Non-Rotary Engine powered cars then ? Isnt that stupid ?
Well, my other 2 cars have about 150k miles on them. Plus, I drive around 130 miles everyday to work.... Therefore, I like to put something a little better and that it will last longer for longer oil change intervals.

As for the 8, it is practically a new car (6900 miles). I can't find any justification as to why I should spend the extra money for something that the car doesn't need.
Yes, you are right to a point.... I should use regular oil for my other cars as well. But why should I spend the extra money??.... and on top of everything, it will be stupid to spend the extra money knowing that Mazda does not recomend synthetics..

Anyway.... I guess only time will tell. When we open up some Rx8 engines with 150k miles on them or so.... then we can compare one oil vs. the other.
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:31 PM
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NYCGPS,

Blah, Blah, Blah. Someone that works in a lab developing motor oil has plenty of credentials to back up their opinions. You have studied oil for six months? Did you study at MIT or some other credited university? No, you probably read bullshit posted on the internet by other idiots. Bottom line is this:

The difference between dino oils and synthetics for daily use does not justify the cost. There are so many brands, blends, types, etc. that it is impossible for you to have a truely educated point on this. I know you would like to think you do, but you don't. I don't care how many engines someone has taken apart, it does not make them an expert in engine oil. There are so many variables that most people couldn't even comprehend. How was the engine driven, what environment was it run in, how often did they change the oil, what types of oil were used during it's lifecycle, was it modded, etc., etc., etc.

I have rebuilt more engines than I can remember and some have been clean when taken apart and some have looked crappy. People would tell me, yes I used this brand of gas and this brand of oil but then the engine looked like **** when disassembled. Then another person would say he used whatever gas was cheapest and used whatever oil was on sale and his engine looked great after almost 100,000 miles. Can it be explained? Too many variables. An engine is an engine. If you are a well educated engineer you will under stand the principals of any engine. Sure ther are plenty of people that are intelligent enough to understand the basic principles and maybe even more if they have done extensive research but they still cannot compare to seasoned industry vet. People don't get the rep of being a "guru" of anything for no reason.

I am a seasoned, well educated, well paid member of the Healthcare IT world and I do see myself as a "guru" of certain practice management software packages but ther is no way I could be a computer "guru" because there are just so many facets of IT and it is ever changing.

Bottom line, IMO, you don't know ****.
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Old 02-15-2007, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by puch96
Well, my other 2 cars have about 150k miles on them. Plus, I drive around 130 miles everyday to work.... Therefore, I like to put something a little better and that it will last longer for longer oil change intervals.

As for the 8, it is practically a new car (6900 miles). I can't find any justification as to why I should spend the extra money for something that the car doesn't need.
Yes, you are right to a point.... I should use regular oil for my other cars as well. But why should I spend the extra money??.... and on top of everything, it will be stupid to spend the extra money knowing that Mazda does not recomend synthetics..

Anyway.... I guess only time will tell. When we open up some Rx8 engines with 150k miles on them or so.... then we can compare one oil vs. the other.

Exactly, perfect point.
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by puch96
Well, my other 2 cars have about 150k miles on them. Plus, I drive around 130 miles everyday to work.... Therefore, I like to put something a little better and that it will last longer for longer oil change intervals.

As for the 8, it is practically a new car (6900 miles). I can't find any justification as to why I should spend the extra money for something that the car doesn't need.
Yes, you are right to a point.... I should use regular oil for my other cars as well. But why should I spend the extra money??.... and on top of everything, it will be stupid to spend the extra money knowing that Mazda does not recomend synthetics..

Anyway.... I guess only time will tell. When we open up some Rx8 engines with 150k miles on them or so.... then we can compare one oil vs. the other.
Mazda does not recommend synthetic is just a cover their *** marketing crap. If Im Mazda I'd probably done the same thing. Cuz its easy to blame everything. Problems with OLD synthetic from 30 yrs ago has long been resolved. People are SOoooo parnoid when they see the word *Synthetic*

Well, its already been 30 something years, time will tell ?
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
NYCGPS,

Blah, Blah, Blah. Someone that works in a lab developing motor oil has plenty of credentials to back up their opinions. You have studied oil for six months? Did you study at MIT or some other credited university? No, you probably read bullshit posted on the internet by other idiots. Bottom line is this:

The difference between dino oils and synthetics for daily use does not justify the cost. There are so many brands, blends, types, etc. that it is impossible for you to have a truely educated point on this. I know you would like to think you do, but you don't. I don't care how many engines someone has taken apart, it does not make them an expert in engine oil. There are so many variables that most people couldn't even comprehend. How was the engine driven, what environment was it run in, how often did they change the oil, what types of oil were used during it's lifecycle, was it modded, etc., etc., etc.

I have rebuilt more engines than I can remember and some have been clean when taken apart and some have looked crappy. People would tell me, yes I used this brand of gas and this brand of oil but then the engine looked like **** when disassembled. Then another person would say he used whatever gas was cheapest and used whatever oil was on sale and his engine looked great after almost 100,000 miles. Can it be explained? Too many variables. An engine is an engine. If you are a well educated engineer you will under stand the principals of any engine. Sure ther are plenty of people that are intelligent enough to understand the basic principles and maybe even more if they have done extensive research but they still cannot compare to seasoned industry vet. People don't get the rep of being a "guru" of anything for no reason.

I am a seasoned, well educated, well paid member of the Healthcare IT world and I do see myself as a "guru" of certain practice management software packages but ther is no way I could be a computer "guru" because there are just so many facets of IT and it is ever changing.

Bottom line, IMO, you don't know ****.
I want scientific prove, not Guidelines from Auto companies that came out from someone else's mouth. not *my friend's is oil guru*. not *I build alot of engines* blah blah blah

sesoned ? well educated ? , well paid member of Healthcare IT world and I do see myself as a guru ? of certain pratice management software packages because there are so many facets of IT and it is ever changing ? thats just one way to say *I suck in IT because Im lazy and slow so I cant keep up*

*Dont tell me you cant even afford the 15 bux extra per oil change, if you really cant, I suggest you to sell ur car, you dont deserves one. and I have some tips for you, public transportation is cheap, worry-free. no hassle.* (edited, too confusing I admit)

Yeah its just so funny that all you people who said no synthetic or whatever becaue Mazda said so, next thing I know is that I see all these aftermarket crap on the car. Fine even u dont have any Im pretty sure no one will ever 100% listen to Mazda's words. say, do everything at a dealership ? I dont think so.

Does one have to study @ MIT in order to know these stuff? Nope, knowledge is everywhere, internet is a good source, but I still prefer to read books. ahh but I guess you're too *smart* to understand that.

I never said I doubt that guy's oil knowledge, but I just doubt about his Rotary Knowledge. The stuff he said came straight from Mazda's Manual.

You're just load of crap, be a tough guy on the internet dont mean **** to me.

Last edited by nycgps; 02-15-2007 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Mazda does not recommend synthetic is just a cover their *** marketing crap. If Im Mazda I'd probably done the same thing. Cuz its easy to blame everything. Problems with OLD synthetic from 30 yrs ago has long been resolved. People are SOoooo parnoid when they see the word *Synthetic*

Well, its already been 30 something years, time will tell ?
30 years ago rotary engines were at it's beginning stages. Technology has changed drastically and the quality of materials also changed... ... so have the oil refinement procedures I'm assuming....
40 years ago people smoked like crazy, and all the illnesess caused by it were not well known then.... now with reasearch and technological advances doctors are finding out how bad smoking is for the health....
Point is, things change.

I personally think that synthetic oils are a great breakthrough in the way oil is processed and the advantages of it. People will use whatever oil they please and that's the beauty of this country.

...another quick point.... Maybe Mazda is covering their *** "marketing crap", but think of something.... ...People in this contry like to buy stuff. Have you ever thought sometimes that the oil companies (which rule the world by the way) use "marketing crap" as you call it to sell you the most expencive bottle of oil telling you how wonderful for your engine it is even though it is not really needed. After all, you will be the idiot spending more of your money and the "marketing crap" guys will be cashing in based on all the idiots like you.

Please note, don't take it personal... but there are a lot of different ways to perfume the pig.
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Dont talk to me about does not justify the cost blah blah blah, If you cant even afford like what 15 bucks extra per oil change, you shouldnt even own a car.
Now this doesn't make a lot of sence....????
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:08 PM
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Tough guy on the internet? WTF does that mean? Dude, you cannot even type. That last post was hilarious. Why don't you go take some english lessons and then come talk to me. I won't even attempt to respond to your lameness. I guess you know everything there is to know about whatever your profession is. Let's just agree to disagree.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by puch96
30 years ago rotary engines were at it's beginning stages. Technology has changed drastically and the quality of materials also changed... ... so have the oil refinement procedures I'm assuming....
40 years ago people smoked like crazy, and all the illnesess caused by it were not well known then.... now with reasearch and technological advances doctors are finding out how bad smoking is for the health....
Point is, things change.

I personally think that synthetic oils are a great breakthrough in the way oil is processed and the advantages of it. People will use whatever oil they please and that's the beauty of this country.

...another quick point.... Maybe Mazda is covering their *** "marketing crap", but think of something.... ...People in this contry like to buy stuff. Have you ever thought sometimes that the oil companies (which rule the world by the way) use "marketing crap" as you call it to sell you the most expencive bottle of oil telling you how wonderful for your engine it is even though it is not really needed. After all, you will be the idiot spending more of your money and the "marketing crap" guys will be cashing in based on all the idiots like you.

Please note, don't take it personal... but there are a lot of different ways to perfume the pig.
I know what you mean, Im not taking this personally just a very friendly discussion.

but there are some idioits here who just want to bash synthetic without any SCIENTIFIC proof to back themself up. All I saw was *he said* *oh that guy said* *oh Mazda said* all the time.

Again, I believe in what RotaryGod said, experience is better than 10000000 "expert's" opinion. I cant say Im expert, far from it, only what 25K miles, yep very little, but I never had a problem, not to mention all the others who have been using Synthetic for YEARS on prior 13B engines without any problems. so whats the problem ? there.

Again I agreed that Dino is fine, but idiots around here please dont bash stuff that you've had no experience before.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Tough guy on the internet? WTF does that mean? Dude, you cannot even type. That last post was hilarious. Why don't you go take some english lessons and then come talk to me. I won't even attempt to respond to your lameness. I guess you know everything there is to know about whatever your profession is. Let's just agree to disagree.
Sorry but I dont feel like to proofread my stuff.

but Im just gonna say it again, you have nothing to back urself up, enuff said.
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by puch96
Now this doesn't make a lot of sence....????
I mean

"Dont tell me that You cant even afford maybe 15 something bucks extra for an oil change(synthetic oil does cost more), if you cant, dont drive"
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
I mean

"Dont tell me that You cant even afford maybe 15 something bucks extra for an oil change(synthetic oil does cost more), if you cant, dont drive"
Yeah... I know what you meant... but what does being able to spend 15 extra bucks per oil change have to do with being able to drive or not?

Why spend the extra money...
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Old 02-15-2007, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Sorry but I dont feel like to proofread my stuff.

but Im just gonna say it again, you have nothing to back urself up, enuff said.
Don't fall into your own trap now...... DO YOU HAVE ANYTHING TO BACK YOURSELF UP OTHER THAN WHAT PEOPLE THINK AND SAY?
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