how bad is it to hold at redline
06-29-2005, 10:15 AM
#26
how to implement heel-toe technique varies greatly from person to person, as each person have different foot size and different levels of foot/eye coordination :D
i use the 'ball of foot on brake, blip throttle with side of foot/heel' technique, my foot's not wide enough to cover both pedals with just my toes :o
i use the 'ball of foot on brake, blip throttle with side of foot/heel' technique, my foot's not wide enough to cover both pedals with just my toes :o
06-29-2005, 10:16 AM
#27
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Not that many people actually use their heel since you have to have good flexibility and/or get your right knee under the wheel. I use the outside edge of my foot, about halfway back from my toes. I put my toe up near the top of the brake pedal, and roll my shoe up over the top of the pedal a little bit.
06-29-2005, 11:09 AM
#28
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How many blips of the throttle in the double clutch method? 2 or 1?
(see the discussion above)
Do some people double clutch on upshifts? Why? That seems silly with today's cars.
(see the discussion above)
Do some people double clutch on upshifts? Why? That seems silly with today's cars.
Originally Posted by tuj
If you haven't tried double-clutching, give it a go. It makes down-shifting much smoother than a single-clutch rev-match technique, and its more forgiving of being a bit off on the revs. With the double-clutch method, you can rev slighly higher than you will be in the lower gear and still be very smooth, whereas with the single-clutch technique, you must be slower with the clutch release if you are off on the revs a little bit.
Try both (without doing heel-toe) and see which one feels smoother to you. Then, try doing it while heel-toe'ing. I used to use the single-clutch method for all my downshifts (including heel-toe) but I've found the double-clutch method to be so much smoother that I use that now for almost all my downshifts (including heel-toe). The only time I don't double-clutch is if the braking zone is short and there is not enough time to press the clutch twice.
Remember, the whole point of rev matching is to be smooth, and the whole point of heel-toe is to accomplish rev-matching while braking. Therefore, if you can feel any change or distruption in the chassis while you heel-toe, you aren't being smooth.
Some people will say that double-clutching is stupid on a modern trans with syncros. However, the syncros are responsible for spinning the layshaft of the transmission up to the same speed as the driveshaft. If you're rev's are off (too high or too low), when you connect the engine back to the layshaft by releasing the clutch, the car will lurch.
If you use the double-clutch technique, both the engine and layshaft spin at the same speed when you rev the engine (because the shifter is in neutral and the clutch released). Then, when you move the shifter into the lower gear, you can feel it slip in when the layshaft and driveshaft speeds match. This is why you can rev slighly higher than necessary and still be smooth. By waiting for the shifter to slip nicely into gear, you are letting the layshaft spin down to the same speed as the driveshaft. And since you spun up the layshaft with the engine, the speed of the engine is still about the same as the layshaft, so when you let out the clutch, everything is smooth. I should mention that this whole process takes only about as long as it takes to pump the clutch twice once you master it.
Try both (without doing heel-toe) and see which one feels smoother to you. Then, try doing it while heel-toe'ing. I used to use the single-clutch method for all my downshifts (including heel-toe) but I've found the double-clutch method to be so much smoother that I use that now for almost all my downshifts (including heel-toe). The only time I don't double-clutch is if the braking zone is short and there is not enough time to press the clutch twice.
Remember, the whole point of rev matching is to be smooth, and the whole point of heel-toe is to accomplish rev-matching while braking. Therefore, if you can feel any change or distruption in the chassis while you heel-toe, you aren't being smooth.
Some people will say that double-clutching is stupid on a modern trans with syncros. However, the syncros are responsible for spinning the layshaft of the transmission up to the same speed as the driveshaft. If you're rev's are off (too high or too low), when you connect the engine back to the layshaft by releasing the clutch, the car will lurch.
If you use the double-clutch technique, both the engine and layshaft spin at the same speed when you rev the engine (because the shifter is in neutral and the clutch released). Then, when you move the shifter into the lower gear, you can feel it slip in when the layshaft and driveshaft speeds match. This is why you can rev slighly higher than necessary and still be smooth. By waiting for the shifter to slip nicely into gear, you are letting the layshaft spin down to the same speed as the driveshaft. And since you spun up the layshaft with the engine, the speed of the engine is still about the same as the layshaft, so when you let out the clutch, everything is smooth. I should mention that this whole process takes only about as long as it takes to pump the clutch twice once you master it.
06-29-2005, 11:19 AM
#29
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Double-clutching you still only blip the throttle once. The difference is that you do it with the clutch released and the shifter in neutral rather than doing it with the clutch in.
Double-clutching was used on upshifts in semis and non-syncro cars. Instead of bliping the throttle in neutral, you would wait for the revs to drop so you could engage the next gear. No real point to doing that nowdays on upshifts. Syncros are good at slowing things down, but they are not as good at speeding things up.
Double-clutching was used on upshifts in semis and non-syncro cars. Instead of bliping the throttle in neutral, you would wait for the revs to drop so you could engage the next gear. No real point to doing that nowdays on upshifts. Syncros are good at slowing things down, but they are not as good at speeding things up.
06-29-2005, 11:50 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by rx8pilot
do you have some kind of fuel cut-off mod that non of the rest of us have? (in a sarcastic tone)... if you do let us know where you got it and how much. otherwise..don't post b.s. when we all know what the rev cutoff is.
sorry..in a bad mood tonight. lol
sorry..in a bad mood tonight. lol
(I can hit 95-96 mph in 3rd gear)
06-29-2005, 12:50 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by tuj
Double-clutching you still only blip the throttle once. The difference is that you do it with the clutch released and the shifter in neutral rather than doing it with the clutch in.
Double-clutching was used on upshifts in semis and non-syncro cars. Instead of bliping the throttle in neutral, you would wait for the revs to drop so you could engage the next gear. No real point to doing that nowdays on upshifts. Syncros are good at slowing things down, but they are not as good at speeding things up.
Double-clutching was used on upshifts in semis and non-syncro cars. Instead of bliping the throttle in neutral, you would wait for the revs to drop so you could engage the next gear. No real point to doing that nowdays on upshifts. Syncros are good at slowing things down, but they are not as good at speeding things up.
Normally with the double clutch it's
1. brake in and held whole time
2. press clutch pedal down
3. shift to neutral
4. clutch pedal up
5. blip throttle
6. clutch pedal in
7. down shift
8. clutch up
9. release brake pedal
06-29-2005, 02:18 PM
#32
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My waterpump was leaking (w/o my knowledge) and dealership replaced it under warranty. Service told me that it's not Mazda's fault, it's two things:
1. Waterpump (3rd party manufactured) wasn't very strong.
2. Engine that runs up to 9,000 rpms puts so much stress on the waterpump no matter how strong the waterpump could be.
I happen to blip to 9K almost at least twice a day. He didn't tell me not to spin it that hard, but he just told me to watch out for leaks so they may repair it quickly before problems come up.
1. Waterpump (3rd party manufactured) wasn't very strong.
2. Engine that runs up to 9,000 rpms puts so much stress on the waterpump no matter how strong the waterpump could be.
I happen to blip to 9K almost at least twice a day. He didn't tell me not to spin it that hard, but he just told me to watch out for leaks so they may repair it quickly before problems come up.
06-29-2005, 02:37 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by Machan
so is this correct then for the heel and toe doubleclutch downshift?
Normally with the double clutch it's
1. brake in and held whole time
2. press clutch pedal down
3. shift to neutral
4. clutch pedal up
5. blip throttle
6. clutch pedal in
7. down shift
8. clutch up
9. release brake pedal
Normally with the double clutch it's
1. brake in and held whole time
2. press clutch pedal down
3. shift to neutral
4. clutch pedal up
5. blip throttle
6. clutch pedal in
7. down shift
8. clutch up
9. release brake pedal
Also, depending on how much you love your transmission, the whole thing can actually be done without using the clutch at all, but I wouldn't recommend it.
06-29-2005, 05:22 PM
#36
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Me too
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
My rev limiter is set at 9500 also. He is not b.s.ing you, some of us got lucky.
(I can hit 95-96 mph in 3rd gear)
(I can hit 95-96 mph in 3rd gear)
Mine is also set at 9500.
06-30-2005, 06:03 AM
#37
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actually if you keep your car at redline and something breaksdown, Mazda mostlikely to tell you you been abusing the car and basically kill your warranty. you are not supposed to drive the car like a sports car, drive it like you got a van or a mazda 6 piece of junk.
06-30-2005, 07:28 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
My rev limiter is set at 9500 also. He is not b.s.ing you, some of us got lucky.
(I can hit 95-96 mph in 3rd gear)
(I can hit 95-96 mph in 3rd gear)
06-30-2005, 09:17 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by r0tor
The real rpms are only 9000 when you are seeing 9500 rpm... the tach lies a bit
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