Highest Mileage RX-8
02-02-2010, 10:10 AM
#126
Goat rider
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol, I guess I'm the idiot.
I had 2 rotorhead friends check it out for me. They shot video with their camera phone for me. It fired right up, and you could tell that something was going on with either the clutch or trans.
Oh, and I paid nowhere near the asking price.
Oh, and another friend is the Mazda rotary tech at the local dealer, and it going to check it out once it gets here. If there is something internally wrong with the engine, I get $1000 back.
But what do I know, I am a rotary noob.
I had 2 rotorhead friends check it out for me. They shot video with their camera phone for me. It fired right up, and you could tell that something was going on with either the clutch or trans.
Oh, and I paid nowhere near the asking price.
Oh, and another friend is the Mazda rotary tech at the local dealer, and it going to check it out once it gets here. If there is something internally wrong with the engine, I get $1000 back.
But what do I know, I am a rotary noob.
02-02-2010, 11:54 AM
#127
Best Ever
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought the car from Miami, it is being shipped to TN.
I explained to him that if the engine is popped or has very low compression, I am going to have to rebuild it. Since he states that it 'runs perfect' and has 'no smoke' I asked that he guarantee the integrity of the engine. We agreed that once it is here, if it fails a Mazda Compression test, he has to eat some cost for me to rebuild, $1000 is what I get refunded in that circumstance.
And the plan is to DD it. Once I have gone through everything.
So many people afraid to get their hands dirty.
The car was offered at $5950.00 OBO. I paid much less (including shipping). Even if I have to rebuild/replace the engine, replace the clutch, replace the broken tail light, replace the missing Homelink mirror, replace the missing remote, and fix the 2 dents it has, I am still coming out WAY ahead of what they retail for around here.
The cheapest ones in my area are around $8000. They are all automatics, or have accident history.
This is the car, I am sure it is the same one.
I explained to him that if the engine is popped or has very low compression, I am going to have to rebuild it. Since he states that it 'runs perfect' and has 'no smoke' I asked that he guarantee the integrity of the engine. We agreed that once it is here, if it fails a Mazda Compression test, he has to eat some cost for me to rebuild, $1000 is what I get refunded in that circumstance.
And the plan is to DD it. Once I have gone through everything.
So many people afraid to get their hands dirty.
The car was offered at $5950.00 OBO. I paid much less (including shipping). Even if I have to rebuild/replace the engine, replace the clutch, replace the broken tail light, replace the missing Homelink mirror, replace the missing remote, and fix the 2 dents it has, I am still coming out WAY ahead of what they retail for around here.
The cheapest ones in my area are around $8000. They are all automatics, or have accident history.
This is the car, I am sure it is the same one.
02-02-2010, 01:11 PM
#129
Best Ever
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quick question (that I couldn't find the answer to)
How would I tell if this engine is original or a reman? I know how to check on 13B/T/REW but I have not messed with a Renesis before this.
Is there a 'heat' tag on it somewhere? I would like to verify the mileage!!!
Also, I am contemplating just putting in the new engine. Taking this one apart might be insightful for what's inside a REALLY high mileage Renesis!!
How would I tell if this engine is original or a reman? I know how to check on 13B/T/REW but I have not messed with a Renesis before this.
Is there a 'heat' tag on it somewhere? I would like to verify the mileage!!!
Also, I am contemplating just putting in the new engine. Taking this one apart might be insightful for what's inside a REALLY high mileage Renesis!!
02-02-2010, 02:25 PM
#130
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe the thread is the highest mileage rx-8. I'm not sure why people with fresh new cars , or "undropped *****", if you will, are posting. I only have 71,000 miles, and am quickly adding onto it, but I still consider it somewhat young. After the warranty extension, I have faith that Mazda has built a car that will last for at least 200,000 miles, with proper maintenance and some part replacements here and there. But it still bums me out sometimes putting miles on it so quickly.
unless you consider the engine to be one of those parts. "at least 200k" aint going to happen.
02-02-2010, 04:11 PM
#132
Quick question (that I couldn't find the answer to)
How would I tell if this engine is original or a reman? I know how to check on 13B/T/REW but I have not messed with a Renesis before this.
Is there a 'heat' tag on it somewhere? I would like to verify the mileage!!!
Also, I am contemplating just putting in the new engine. Taking this one apart might be insightful for what's inside a REALLY high mileage Renesis!!
How would I tell if this engine is original or a reman? I know how to check on 13B/T/REW but I have not messed with a Renesis before this.
Is there a 'heat' tag on it somewhere? I would like to verify the mileage!!!
Also, I am contemplating just putting in the new engine. Taking this one apart might be insightful for what's inside a REALLY high mileage Renesis!!
Paul.
02-02-2010, 05:59 PM
#133
Best Ever
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's the thing, what if it wasn't replaced/rebuilt by Mazda? Then it will not show up anywhere.
The Autocheck and Carfax did not have anything to suggest it was rebuilt, and the previous paperwork hasn't shown up yet.
But I will PM you!
The Autocheck and Carfax did not have anything to suggest it was rebuilt, and the previous paperwork hasn't shown up yet.
But I will PM you!
02-02-2010, 07:07 PM
#134
Dooky Booty
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: So Cal baby!
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh yeah, i got 91k on mine right now. So far I changed the clutch, spark plugs, and coils. My car runs faster now then the day I bought it. Turns out my coils been bad for quite some time now. When I replaced them it fixed my hard start problem.
Last edited by mike0615; 02-02-2010 at 07:23 PM.
02-03-2010, 08:01 AM
#137
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't see why "ain't going to happen". My 1988 convertible FC went over 200k and was still running when I traded it in. That car was made in the late 80's with old tech, I don't see why this rotary won't last over 200k. Is the turbos on this thing too much of a strain on the engine or something?
oh yeah, i got 91k on mine right now. So far I changed the clutch, spark plugs, and coils. My car runs faster now then the day I bought it. Turns out my coils been bad for quite some time now. When I replaced them it fixed my hard start problem.
oh yeah, i got 91k on mine right now. So far I changed the clutch, spark plugs, and coils. My car runs faster now then the day I bought it. Turns out my coils been bad for quite some time now. When I replaced them it fixed my hard start problem.
The warranty extension had little to do with Mazdas confidence in the engine, more so to prevent a class action lawsuit due to the failed engines.
Last edited by Shoafb; 02-03-2010 at 08:07 AM.
02-03-2010, 08:06 AM
#138
I'm at 64,000 miles now. The car might get driven once every couple of weeks being it is not my daily driver, the rest of the time it sits under the car cover. I just had compression tests done and the the dealer said the car was in perfect condition (can't recall the compression numbers, I have the paperwork filed away). He told me that the engines fail due to heavy carbon build up and as long as you rev the engine high and drive the car as it was meant to be driven, "like you stole it", the car will last for ever. The service manager said he has a few customers with over 100,000 miles on their 8.
02-03-2010, 09:03 AM
#139
Best Ever
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just got some info from Paul:
A Mazda reman was installed on 01/04/05. 29039 miles. A catalytic converter was installed on 10/25/06 119062 miles.
So not the original motor
That still means the engine has 160,000 potential miles. Not bad.
A Mazda reman was installed on 01/04/05. 29039 miles. A catalytic converter was installed on 10/25/06 119062 miles.
So not the original motor
That still means the engine has 160,000 potential miles. Not bad.
02-03-2010, 09:22 AM
#140
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm at 64,000 miles now. The car might get driven once every couple of weeks being it is not my daily driver, the rest of the time it sits under the car cover. I just had compression tests done and the the dealer said the car was in perfect condition (can't recall the compression numbers, I have the paperwork filed away). He told me that the engines fail due to heavy carbon build up and as long as you rev the engine high and drive the car as it was meant to be driven, "like you stole it", the car will last for ever. The service manager said he has a few customers with over 100,000 miles on their 8.
of course he told you that.... he works for the dealer...
While I am not screaming all engines will fail early..... saying you expect at LEAST 200k before a problem is a bit of an overstatement.
02-03-2010, 10:19 AM
#141
Drive it until you need a new one.
Remember... with that high milage the car was always on the highway and not in stop and go traffic.
Don't worry ObeeWanKanobee....
Remember... with that high milage the car was always on the highway and not in stop and go traffic.
Don't worry ObeeWanKanobee....
02-03-2010, 11:13 AM
#142
Goat rider
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought the car from Miami, it is being shipped to TN.
I explained to him that if the engine is popped or has very low compression, I am going to have to rebuild it. Since he states that it 'runs perfect' and has 'no smoke' I asked that he guarantee the integrity of the engine. We agreed that once it is here, if it fails a Mazda Compression test, he has to eat some cost for me to rebuild, $1000 is what I get refunded in that circumstance.
And the plan is to DD it. Once I have gone through everything.
So many people afraid to get their hands dirty.
The car was offered at $5950.00 OBO. I paid much less (including shipping). Even if I have to rebuild/replace the engine, replace the clutch, replace the broken tail light, replace the missing Homelink mirror, replace the missing remote, and fix the 2 dents it has, I am still coming out WAY ahead of what they retail for around here.
The cheapest ones in my area are around $8000. They are all automatics, or have accident history.
This is the car, I am sure it is the same one.
I explained to him that if the engine is popped or has very low compression, I am going to have to rebuild it. Since he states that it 'runs perfect' and has 'no smoke' I asked that he guarantee the integrity of the engine. We agreed that once it is here, if it fails a Mazda Compression test, he has to eat some cost for me to rebuild, $1000 is what I get refunded in that circumstance.
And the plan is to DD it. Once I have gone through everything.
So many people afraid to get their hands dirty.
The car was offered at $5950.00 OBO. I paid much less (including shipping). Even if I have to rebuild/replace the engine, replace the clutch, replace the broken tail light, replace the missing Homelink mirror, replace the missing remote, and fix the 2 dents it has, I am still coming out WAY ahead of what they retail for around here.
The cheapest ones in my area are around $8000. They are all automatics, or have accident history.
This is the car, I am sure it is the same one.
You also going to need at least a new drivers seat, new steering wheel or a cover, pass seat maybe, new shift ****, new carpet (maybe) and sun visors. I have seen the car in person and heard it run. I hope the guy holds to his word for you. good luck.
That RX8 if I got it, everything would of been sold of as parts to bring down the cost of the car even more rims, glass, sunroof, Nav, brakes, dash, cluster ect ect. Then I would of turned it into a non street legal track car. I didn't think it would sell so fast lol. No biggie tho, still working on a spec miata car so I got time to find something later.
Last edited by Trekk; 02-03-2010 at 11:34 AM.
02-03-2010, 05:02 PM
#143
Rotarys Own My Life
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
good ole N/A fc3s
I'm about to hit 86k on mine...clutch and throwout bearring are somewhat weak...this was my first winter with it, sense its starting to warm back up some, starting it seems to take its sweet time now...I believe new coils might be due some day.
Somtimes my throttle misses too like it wants to stall for a split second whenever I start from a stop....hope the fuel pump is okay.
I'm about to hit 86k on mine...clutch and throwout bearring are somewhat weak...this was my first winter with it, sense its starting to warm back up some, starting it seems to take its sweet time now...I believe new coils might be due some day.
Somtimes my throttle misses too like it wants to stall for a split second whenever I start from a stop....hope the fuel pump is okay.
Last edited by hkspoweredrx8; 02-03-2010 at 05:09 PM.
02-04-2010, 06:52 AM
#144
Best Ever
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got lucky, the local junk yard I always deal with just got in a 2005 RX-8 that has been hit one the front right corner. He quoted me $250 for the seats, door cards, visors, and homelink mirror, and steering wheel. Another $50 for the tail light.
So looks like I will be converting the whole interior to black instead of the two tone.
02-04-2010, 07:19 AM
#145
Why are there so many comments here from people who have not passed 100k or even 150k? We need to hear from more people who are at 180 plus and see how many people have never replaced an engine at 140k plus.
Paul.
Paul.
02-04-2010, 08:20 AM
#146
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Start a 140k + on original engine Poll? Could list 100 and 120k in the poll as well for kicks.
02-05-2010, 11:03 AM
#147
Best Ever
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright guys, car is here, and quite clean contrary to what Trekk had to say.
196K+ and she fires right up, as long as it is in neutral.
I took a quick look at under the dash, and low and behold: broken clutch pedal!!!!!!
I am about to start a new thread on this car.
196K+ and she fires right up, as long as it is in neutral.
I took a quick look at under the dash, and low and behold: broken clutch pedal!!!!!!
I am about to start a new thread on this car.
02-07-2010, 11:20 AM
#149
«ΩLi√∑RX8™...
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Brentwood, NY
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i've got about 85k on my 8, no known problems, runs great, only thing is that it vibrates on idle...im glad to hear from all of you guys that the RX8 can last up until 200k...
02-07-2010, 11:49 AM
#150
I am fully aware of the problems, that is how I got it much cheaper than what he was asking.
I got lucky, the local junk yard I always deal with just got in a 2005 RX-8 that has been hit one the front right corner. He quoted me $250 for the seats, door cards, visors, and homelink mirror, and steering wheel. Another $50 for the tail light.
So looks like I will be converting the whole interior to black instead of the two tone.
I got lucky, the local junk yard I always deal with just got in a 2005 RX-8 that has been hit one the front right corner. He quoted me $250 for the seats, door cards, visors, and homelink mirror, and steering wheel. Another $50 for the tail light.
So looks like I will be converting the whole interior to black instead of the two tone.