Engine Failure! The Good Dealership, The Bad Service and the Ugly Incompetence
08-01-2013, 02:15 PM
#26
Rotary Evolution
coolant temps at 127C
that is only 260F!
intake temps a mere 183F
edit: ok nevermind, it appears to be calibrated in SAE versus metric without a designation.
i would disregard the Bxxx codes, they were probably erroneous from when the car was first started after a battery reconnect and the codes not cleared. i get strange communication codes all the time when replacing engines, but they should not have been lazy and cleared them.
not sure why the FLI would only read 10% and the gauge 50%. the ECU should be commanding the fuel level.
that is only 260F!
intake temps a mere 183F
edit: ok nevermind, it appears to be calibrated in SAE versus metric without a designation.
i would disregard the Bxxx codes, they were probably erroneous from when the car was first started after a battery reconnect and the codes not cleared. i get strange communication codes all the time when replacing engines, but they should not have been lazy and cleared them.
not sure why the FLI would only read 10% and the gauge 50%. the ECU should be commanding the fuel level.
Last edited by Karack; 08-01-2013 at 02:29 PM.
08-01-2013, 02:28 PM
#27
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coolant temps at 127C
that is only 260F!
intake temps a mere 183F
not sure why this was not brought up..
mmm, yeah. you're car is running a tad hot and no wonder it began misifiring, the coils and plugs were likely scorching hot as well and simply couldn't keep up. make sure the cooling system is free of air and that they installed the supplied new thermostat that comes with ALL reman engines. if it continues to run this hot the new engine will also get cooked, be sure the fans are working and that the undertray is installed.
i would disregard the Bxxx codes, they were probably erroneous from when the car was first started after a battery reconnect and the codes not cleared. i get strange communication codes all the time when replacing engines, but they should not have been lazy and cleared them.
not sure why the FLI would only read 10% and the gauge 50%. the ECU should be commanding the fuel level.
that is only 260F!
intake temps a mere 183F
not sure why this was not brought up..
mmm, yeah. you're car is running a tad hot and no wonder it began misifiring, the coils and plugs were likely scorching hot as well and simply couldn't keep up. make sure the cooling system is free of air and that they installed the supplied new thermostat that comes with ALL reman engines. if it continues to run this hot the new engine will also get cooked, be sure the fans are working and that the undertray is installed.
i would disregard the Bxxx codes, they were probably erroneous from when the car was first started after a battery reconnect and the codes not cleared. i get strange communication codes all the time when replacing engines, but they should not have been lazy and cleared them.
not sure why the FLI would only read 10% and the gauge 50%. the ECU should be commanding the fuel level.
08-01-2013, 02:30 PM
#28
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The fluid running is usually normal, coolant rushing through the heater core.
Do the ESS clean and reset anyway. That needs to be done on an engine replacement and even the techs sometimes forget.
If the cat wasn't also replaced, then that could easily be the cause of the misfire.
Do the ESS clean and reset anyway. That needs to be done on an engine replacement and even the techs sometimes forget.
If the cat wasn't also replaced, then that could easily be the cause of the misfire.
08-01-2013, 03:04 PM
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The fluid running is usually normal, coolant rushing through the heater core.
Do the ESS clean and reset anyway. That needs to be done on an engine replacement and even the techs sometimes forget.
If the cat wasn't also replaced, then that could easily be the cause of the misfire.
Do the ESS clean and reset anyway. That needs to be done on an engine replacement and even the techs sometimes forget.
If the cat wasn't also replaced, then that could easily be the cause of the misfire.
08-01-2013, 03:05 PM
#30
08-01-2013, 03:14 PM
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The notes on the invoice even say"Customer states that vehicle runs ruff w/ Cat Convert, He removed Cat converter, runs smoother, please advise". Granted, I gave them WAY more information than that, but at least there is some proof.
08-01-2013, 03:24 PM
#32
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Yeah, likely a fight with them, but if there is a chance you can get it replaced under the warranty, it's worth a shot.
They are technically correct in that it won't always cause a misfire, but it's certainly possible.
They are technically correct in that it won't always cause a misfire, but it's certainly possible.
08-01-2013, 03:43 PM
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Sorry, I meant to say that they said a glowing red cat does not always mean it is plugged or failing.
The argument there is that if it is hot enough to glow, it is hot enough to breakdown.
The argument there is that if it is hot enough to glow, it is hot enough to breakdown.
08-02-2013, 06:32 AM
#36
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When I had my cat replaced, I had a reasonable dealership. I drove there with a midpipe on and the cat in the trunk, the service advisor took a look inside, saw it was a wreck and ordered me a new one. They had to re-install the old cat briefly before putting the new one in to get the type of data you have above, but zero hassle.
Most dealerships aren't going to be this reasonable however.
Most dealerships aren't going to be this reasonable however.
08-02-2013, 12:51 PM
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Well, I dropped it off last night. On the way to the dealership it threw a flashing CEL 4 different times and the car lost power at one point.
Hopefully they will do the right thing and get it taken care of...I'll keep the thread updated.
Hopefully they will do the right thing and get it taken care of...I'll keep the thread updated.
08-05-2013, 11:06 AM
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The only update I got over the weekend is that they are looking into the cat. They also felt the need to inform me that the coils were "O'Reilly Coils". Not sure why that warrants a comment as I've used parts like that on cars for years.
08-12-2013, 01:54 PM
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I finally got a call back from the dealer. They said they checked out the Cat, coils, wires, plugs, coolant pressure and compression. All came back fine and the compression was "Within Limits". After further testing it was revealed that one of the secondary injectors is failing. They recommend replacing both, which of course, is on my dime. $869 plus tax. I'm not exactly happy right now, especially since the previous call was that the compression seemed low and they were waiting on the tech line.
08-12-2013, 05:53 PM
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What RPM? Those are failing if your starter speed is ~270rpm or more. They are barely passing (face #2 on the 2nd rotor) if your starter speed is ~250-260rpm. They are acceptable if your starter speed is 200-230rpm. They are good if your starter is under 200rpm.
(Rough numbers, altitude can shift it as well)
(Rough numbers, altitude can shift it as well)
08-13-2013, 08:53 AM
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What RPM? Those are failing if your starter speed is ~270rpm or more. They are barely passing (face #2 on the 2nd rotor) if your starter speed is ~250-260rpm. They are acceptable if your starter speed is 200-230rpm. They are good if your starter is under 200rpm.
(Rough numbers, altitude can shift it as well)
(Rough numbers, altitude can shift it as well)
I'm not looking forward to $900 for injectors on the second bank. Is there a good DIY? I ran a few searches, but I didn't come across anything definitive. Also, is there a recommended brand?
08-13-2013, 10:28 AM
#44
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If they adjusted for altitude, then they ran it through the calculator, which adjusts it to 250rpm as well. So you pass, though one rotor face isn't all that far. It's a mediocre engine at the moment.
Pretty sure you can do far better than $900. Removing the Upper Intake Manifold (curved black plastic piece) is a bit irritating, but not hard. Needs a few creative tools, like a flex joint for the bolt back by the firewall and something that can get up under the bottom brakes behind the throttle body. The injectors are sitting under that, and should be easily replaceable.
Our injectors aren't cheap, but they aren't $900 either. Contact Mazmart to see what price he can give you.
Pretty sure you can do far better than $900. Removing the Upper Intake Manifold (curved black plastic piece) is a bit irritating, but not hard. Needs a few creative tools, like a flex joint for the bolt back by the firewall and something that can get up under the bottom brakes behind the throttle body. The injectors are sitting under that, and should be easily replaceable.
Our injectors aren't cheap, but they aren't $900 either. Contact Mazmart to see what price he can give you.
08-13-2013, 10:35 AM
#45
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If they adjusted for altitude, then they ran it through the calculator, which adjusts it to 250rpm as well. So you pass, though one rotor face isn't all that far. It's a mediocre engine at the moment.
Pretty sure you can do far better than $900. Removing the Upper Intake Manifold (curved black plastic piece) is a bit irritating, but not hard. Needs a few creative tools, like a flex joint for the bolt back by the firewall and something that can get up under the bottom brakes behind the throttle body. The injectors are sitting under that, and should be easily replaceable.
Our injectors aren't cheap, but they aren't $900 either. Contact Mazmart to see what price he can give you.
Pretty sure you can do far better than $900. Removing the Upper Intake Manifold (curved black plastic piece) is a bit irritating, but not hard. Needs a few creative tools, like a flex joint for the bolt back by the firewall and something that can get up under the bottom brakes behind the throttle body. The injectors are sitting under that, and should be easily replaceable.
Our injectors aren't cheap, but they aren't $900 either. Contact Mazmart to see what price he can give you.
08-13-2013, 10:39 AM
#46
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Injectors aren't firing during the compression test, so no, it won't make any difference on compression.
See the compression test post in my new owner's thread for a breakdown of what numbers mean what (roughly).
I was contemplating building a color coded chart to make it a bit easier for people, so maybe I'll do that.
See the compression test post in my new owner's thread for a breakdown of what numbers mean what (roughly).
I was contemplating building a color coded chart to make it a bit easier for people, so maybe I'll do that.
08-13-2013, 11:28 AM
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I spoke to the mechanic, those numbers were BEFORE Altitude adjustment. So after running them through the calc, they would be:
8.6, 8.2, 8.6
8.6, 8.0, 8.2
Those numbers look a lot better and I will be getting a print out of the numbers to verify.
8.6, 8.2, 8.6
8.6, 8.0, 8.2
Those numbers look a lot better and I will be getting a print out of the numbers to verify.
08-14-2013, 08:45 AM
#50
Rockie Mountain Newbie
Was your engine already replaced recently, when you first got your car, or by the previous owner?
Since it's McDonald where you took your car to, I'm willing to bet that they did in fact screw up the altitude correction.
BC.