Don't Flame Me, Advice for my big decision to buy an RX8
06-17-2009, 11:38 AM
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Don't Flame Me, Advice for my big decision to buy an RX8
The car will see use as a daily driver and a track toy ... I do approx 8-10 events a year as an instructor, so please tilt any advice toward the performance end of the spectrum
As addt'l background, I drove pretty much everything ... Elise, Z, Evo, STi, C6 Vette, Cayman, the new Genesis ... I'm going with the RX8 because the car has an incredibly balanced feel to it ala' Cayman and Elise, is not overpowered (Vette) thereby making it too easy to catch up and "hide" mistakes on track, and does not drive for me with fancy electronics to also oover up errors in my technique (EVO, STI)
I also enjoy working a rev happy engine in F1 fashion, and 0-60 in 6 seconds is plenty enuff fun ... again, it's really the road course handling prowess at an incredible value that sold me ... if someone tells you its not fast enough, reply "not on the dragstrip, but on the road course, it out handles exotics if you know how to put it to work"
It doesn't cost an arm and leg, (sorry, a concession to the new economy as I'd love to get a Cayman S) , and now there's a warranty extension on the engine removing that fear, and dang it, I can't dismiss of the real world need of occassionally but desperately needing a back seat for kid and kid friend logistics ... if I went with an Elise or Cayman or Vette I'd also need to pop for a daily driver, and I really don't want to own two cars
So there we are, some questions I have, and my apologies in advance as I'm sure these are posted here and there (sorry search ****'s), but I don't have the time to try and flush out and discern b.s. from fact
Q1 - What are the typical, proven modifications for the track? From the bang for the buck perspective is appreciated
Q2 - Are people running heavier 30 weight oil or pretty much using the factory "req'd" 0w20 for gas mileage sake?
Q3 - What's the general real world range for gas mileage?
Q4 - Any noteworthy trouble spots in certain model years (other than engine?) to avoid in the used car market? (I'd like to get a one or two year old car with 20-30k miles)
Q5 - Is the R3 package just the shizzle / "gotta have" or can I get there by adding what options / modifications?
Q6 - Are track people having a tight fit in the cockpit with a helmet on?
Thanks for any and all assistance, and congrats on a great car ... I have no loyalty to the brand, and short of having another $25k to spend, the RX8 is the best deal going for track carving!
As addt'l background, I drove pretty much everything ... Elise, Z, Evo, STi, C6 Vette, Cayman, the new Genesis ... I'm going with the RX8 because the car has an incredibly balanced feel to it ala' Cayman and Elise, is not overpowered (Vette) thereby making it too easy to catch up and "hide" mistakes on track, and does not drive for me with fancy electronics to also oover up errors in my technique (EVO, STI)
I also enjoy working a rev happy engine in F1 fashion, and 0-60 in 6 seconds is plenty enuff fun ... again, it's really the road course handling prowess at an incredible value that sold me ... if someone tells you its not fast enough, reply "not on the dragstrip, but on the road course, it out handles exotics if you know how to put it to work"
It doesn't cost an arm and leg, (sorry, a concession to the new economy as I'd love to get a Cayman S) , and now there's a warranty extension on the engine removing that fear, and dang it, I can't dismiss of the real world need of occassionally but desperately needing a back seat for kid and kid friend logistics ... if I went with an Elise or Cayman or Vette I'd also need to pop for a daily driver, and I really don't want to own two cars
So there we are, some questions I have, and my apologies in advance as I'm sure these are posted here and there (sorry search ****'s), but I don't have the time to try and flush out and discern b.s. from fact
Q1 - What are the typical, proven modifications for the track? From the bang for the buck perspective is appreciated
Q2 - Are people running heavier 30 weight oil or pretty much using the factory "req'd" 0w20 for gas mileage sake?
Q3 - What's the general real world range for gas mileage?
Q4 - Any noteworthy trouble spots in certain model years (other than engine?) to avoid in the used car market? (I'd like to get a one or two year old car with 20-30k miles)
Q5 - Is the R3 package just the shizzle / "gotta have" or can I get there by adding what options / modifications?
Q6 - Are track people having a tight fit in the cockpit with a helmet on?
Thanks for any and all assistance, and congrats on a great car ... I have no loyalty to the brand, and short of having another $25k to spend, the RX8 is the best deal going for track carving!
06-17-2009, 11:44 AM
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1: short shifter, tires, some people swear by sway and strut bars.
2: I use 5w30. NYGPS uses 50W1million or something. I forget. you can use heavier oil, and are encouraged to, to a point.
3: 16-18 mpg. 20 if you do a lot of highway.
4: 06 and later seem to be most trouble free but earlier ones with all tsb's done and good compression are fine.
5: meh.
6: Only if you're tall.
2: I use 5w30. NYGPS uses 50W1million or something. I forget. you can use heavier oil, and are encouraged to, to a point.
3: 16-18 mpg. 20 if you do a lot of highway.
4: 06 and later seem to be most trouble free but earlier ones with all tsb's done and good compression are fine.
5: meh.
6: Only if you're tall.
06-17-2009, 12:09 PM
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1: Cobb Accessport tuned by Mazdamaniac. This will net you some more power, and it helps w/ longevity of the car. I've heard good things about the BHR ignition system, which replaces the otherwise weak stock coils, which are known to start losing power after 20k miles or so. I love not having a catalytic converter, since they have been known to get clogged if your car runs hot, which the tuning will do. I've heard that shocks&springs/coilovers and sway bars do a lot for the car, but frankly, this car is very well balanced and rides nice in stock configuration.
2: I use 5w20 or 5w30. I've heard of some using lighter or heavier oil also.
3: I get 17 if I mash the pedal every chance I get. If I take it easier, I get 17-18. If I'm on the highway all day, I get 20-22. That probably has something to do with the tuning and lack of a cat.
4: I have an 05 and it's fine. Bang for your buck, get a used one with hardly any miles from someone on here.
5: The newer models of the rx-8 have a shorter final drive ratio, so you get a bit more off the line torque but less fuel economy. I test drove one and it was easier to take off, but I didn't notice much of a difference once you were going above 30. I haven't tried the r3 yet though, so I don't know how the recaro seats are.. I like the rims on it, but don't forget, tires for 19" rims are more expensive than 18's.
6: If you have a sunroof, it's a bit of a squeeze with the helmet. If you're tall, you will hit your head.
2: I use 5w20 or 5w30. I've heard of some using lighter or heavier oil also.
3: I get 17 if I mash the pedal every chance I get. If I take it easier, I get 17-18. If I'm on the highway all day, I get 20-22. That probably has something to do with the tuning and lack of a cat.
4: I have an 05 and it's fine. Bang for your buck, get a used one with hardly any miles from someone on here.
5: The newer models of the rx-8 have a shorter final drive ratio, so you get a bit more off the line torque but less fuel economy. I test drove one and it was easier to take off, but I didn't notice much of a difference once you were going above 30. I haven't tried the r3 yet though, so I don't know how the recaro seats are.. I like the rims on it, but don't forget, tires for 19" rims are more expensive than 18's.
6: If you have a sunroof, it's a bit of a squeeze with the helmet. If you're tall, you will hit your head.
06-17-2009, 12:10 PM
#4
1. already stated, if your clutch goes a flywheel isn't a bad option considering your in there anyway
2. i use 5w30 or 5w20 depending on the season
3. i get 16, my comute is 5 miles each way everyday. i usually get 18-20 on long trips. I think newer 16-22 mpg is pretty accurate. The original 18-24 mpg is off.
4. the 09 engines had modifications to improve longevity. An added oil injector was added to protect the apex seals. For convenience the oil gauge was moved to on top of the engine. There were other changes but those were the most notable.
I have an 04 model most of the problems associated with the car were handled in TSB's. I know that i have had about 75% of the TSB's performed and since they were done have not had a problem except for 1. The passenger side engine mount warps because of the heat from the exhaust. I had mine replaced at 30k and will need to do it again at 70K. The air conditioner on the 04 was underpowered, most models had this corrected early on, this was not handled under a TSB. I haven't had it happen, but some people have had the visor clips break repeatability even after having them replaced under a TSB. Models after 2005 didn't seem to be affected under most of the TSB's.
5. already stated
6. i'm 5'8" and have no problem with a sun roof although if you were 6' i would recommend not getting a sunroof. Take your helmet on the test drive.
2. i use 5w30 or 5w20 depending on the season
3. i get 16, my comute is 5 miles each way everyday. i usually get 18-20 on long trips. I think newer 16-22 mpg is pretty accurate. The original 18-24 mpg is off.
4. the 09 engines had modifications to improve longevity. An added oil injector was added to protect the apex seals. For convenience the oil gauge was moved to on top of the engine. There were other changes but those were the most notable.
I have an 04 model most of the problems associated with the car were handled in TSB's. I know that i have had about 75% of the TSB's performed and since they were done have not had a problem except for 1. The passenger side engine mount warps because of the heat from the exhaust. I had mine replaced at 30k and will need to do it again at 70K. The air conditioner on the 04 was underpowered, most models had this corrected early on, this was not handled under a TSB. I haven't had it happen, but some people have had the visor clips break repeatability even after having them replaced under a TSB. Models after 2005 didn't seem to be affected under most of the TSB's.
5. already stated
6. i'm 5'8" and have no problem with a sun roof although if you were 6' i would recommend not getting a sunroof. Take your helmet on the test drive.
Last edited by bsteimel; 06-17-2009 at 12:15 PM.
06-17-2009, 01:02 PM
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Sounds like if I can find an '06, have the service guys check its history, add suspension, I'll be in decent shape, at a value price with a good hunk of engine warranty left
Anyone happen to know if the R3 suspension has different spring rate or is it just the dampeners? I drove an anniversary edition that had Bilsteins, factory springs (uprated?) and it seemed like an ideal street / track compromise
I'll be getting a separate set of track wheels and tires, in 17"... so 18s are fine for daily use / looks
What's the 0-60 on this gen car with the taller rear gear?
I had seen posts where some we're getting near and low 20 mpg overall ... sounds like not too likely?
I'm 5'10 ... will be some funny looks stepping in with a helmet at the dealship
Thanks men, for all the intelligent comments and input
Anyone happen to know if the R3 suspension has different spring rate or is it just the dampeners? I drove an anniversary edition that had Bilsteins, factory springs (uprated?) and it seemed like an ideal street / track compromise
I'll be getting a separate set of track wheels and tires, in 17"... so 18s are fine for daily use / looks
What's the 0-60 on this gen car with the taller rear gear?
I had seen posts where some we're getting near and low 20 mpg overall ... sounds like not too likely?
I'm 5'10 ... will be some funny looks stepping in with a helmet at the dealship
Thanks men, for all the intelligent comments and input
Last edited by GTI-Guy; 06-17-2009 at 01:07 PM.
06-17-2009, 01:10 PM
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1) most bang for the buck is easily the AFE short shifter. the shift feel is soo improved with it. and also a mp/straightpipe. you can easily find cheap used ons on the forum
2)i use 5wX20 but have seens people use 5wx30 with no issues
3)typically i find that i get rougly 16 mpg and thats w, 60/40 city/highway driving
4)i hear the model years befoer 06 have had quite a few issues. i have a used 04 and havent had any problems yet (knocks on wood). i guess just make sure all the TSBs and recalls ahve been done as well.
5)i believe the r3 is just extra bling factor kinda thing. looks great, but im sure you can do without it. for track the sport package is the best i believe
6)only if you're tall...might have to **** your head to the side a little bit.
2)i use 5wX20 but have seens people use 5wx30 with no issues
3)typically i find that i get rougly 16 mpg and thats w, 60/40 city/highway driving
4)i hear the model years befoer 06 have had quite a few issues. i have a used 04 and havent had any problems yet (knocks on wood). i guess just make sure all the TSBs and recalls ahve been done as well.
5)i believe the r3 is just extra bling factor kinda thing. looks great, but im sure you can do without it. for track the sport package is the best i believe
6)only if you're tall...might have to **** your head to the side a little bit.
06-17-2009, 01:25 PM
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Didn't see a separate sport package on Mazda's site (for '09's of course), what does that option offer? R3 wise, yes, I'm not a real fan of all the aero stuff, more interested in robbing the parts bin (or finding used) stock suspension pieces
06-17-2009, 01:46 PM
#8
You could bring your 0-60 consistently under 6 without forced induction if:
- You have the BHR Ignition coil set, headers, midpipe, exhaust, CAI, pulleys, afe shortshift, lw flywheel, taller gear ratio, and tune with MazdaManiac's Cobb AP maps. '
- Do like 200-300+ pounds in weight reductions
06-17-2009, 01:46 PM
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Q1 - As what everyone else has said. AFE short shifter, suspension mods, and intake wise just grab a K&N filter.
Q2 - I use 5W-20
Q3 - Between 16-18 for me
Q4 - Yes!, please when you are test driving the car find a place in the test drive which is open and you can run the car in high rpms after said 3-4 minutes of normal operating use. You want to check the gears shifting from 3rd to 4th above 7k RPMS. You want to make sure there is NO grinding. I just bought my 8 and going through issues with the dealer and Mazda its such a pain..
Q5 - ehh
Q6 - I'm 6'0 and I havent tracked yet or had a helmet on while I was driving. But I can tell you this without having my seat a little ways reclined my head rubs the headliner. Thats with the sunroof of course.
Q2 - I use 5W-20
Q3 - Between 16-18 for me
Q4 - Yes!, please when you are test driving the car find a place in the test drive which is open and you can run the car in high rpms after said 3-4 minutes of normal operating use. You want to check the gears shifting from 3rd to 4th above 7k RPMS. You want to make sure there is NO grinding. I just bought my 8 and going through issues with the dealer and Mazda its such a pain..
Q5 - ehh
Q6 - I'm 6'0 and I havent tracked yet or had a helmet on while I was driving. But I can tell you this without having my seat a little ways reclined my head rubs the headliner. Thats with the sunroof of course.
Last edited by adamwzl; 06-17-2009 at 01:48 PM. Reason: typo
06-17-2009, 01:55 PM
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Q2 - I use 10w40. I recently had my car serviced by guys who build and race Mazdas. One guy has an RX-8 that he uses for fun on weekends and runs 10w40 in winter and 20w50 the rest of the year. I would recommend nothing less than 10w30 unless you live somewhere where it gets REAL cold. Even then, I would only use 5w30 during your coldest couple months.
Q3 - Not sure on exact mileage. I would say around 17 or 18.
Q4 - The engine is covered for 8 years/100k and the powertrain for 5 years/60k. I would stay away from the 2004's. Lots of great deals on 2005's right now. You'll pay a premium of $2000-3000 for a 2006.
Q3 - Not sure on exact mileage. I would say around 17 or 18.
Q4 - The engine is covered for 8 years/100k and the powertrain for 5 years/60k. I would stay away from the 2004's. Lots of great deals on 2005's right now. You'll pay a premium of $2000-3000 for a 2006.
06-17-2009, 01:55 PM
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The RX-8 "sport" is the cheapest rx8 you can possibly purchase new and is also the lightest. Most luxury features are removed. Such as DSC and TCS, bose stereo, leather, heated seats, heated mirrors etc..
06-17-2009, 02:01 PM
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The car will see use as a daily driver and a track toy ... I do approx 8-10 events a year as an instructor, so please tilt any advice toward the performance end of the spectrum
As addt'l background, I drove pretty much everything ... Elise, Z, Evo, STi, C6 Vette, Cayman, the new Genesis ... I'm going with the RX8 because the car has an incredibly balanced feel to it ala' Cayman and Elise, is not overpowered (Vette) thereby making it too easy to catch up and "hide" mistakes on track, and does not drive for me with fancy electronics to also oover up errors in my technique (EVO, STI)
I also enjoy working a rev happy engine in F1 fashion, and 0-60 in 6 seconds is plenty enuff fun ... again, it's really the road course handling prowess at an incredible value that sold me ... if someone tells you its not fast enough, reply "not on the dragstrip, but on the road course, it out handles exotics if you know how to put it to work"
It doesn't cost an arm and leg, (sorry, a concession to the new economy as I'd love to get a Cayman S) , and now there's a warranty extension on the engine removing that fear, and dang it, I can't dismiss of the real world need of occassionally but desperately needing a back seat for kid and kid friend logistics ... if I went with an Elise or Cayman or Vette I'd also need to pop for a daily driver, and I really don't want to own two cars
So there we are, some questions I have, and my apologies in advance as I'm sure these are posted here and there (sorry search ****'s), but I don't have the time to try and flush out and discern b.s. from fact
Q1 - What are the typical, proven modifications for the track? From the bang for the buck perspective is appreciated
Springs, sways, dampers for handling. Cobb AP (from mazdamaniac), lightweight clutch (BHR has a 8.98lbs one), short throw shifter (axial flow engineering), 4.777s (for 08 and older) and that's really the only thing worth the points for the track, but you can also look at BHRs Yukon coils and a catless midpipe
Q2 - Are people running heavier 30 weight oil or pretty much using the factory "req'd" 0w20 for gas mileage sake?
People swear either way. This is more of a personal decision call. Check some older threads for background (search)
Q3 - What's the general real world range for gas mileage?
city-14-16 highway18-23 It will improve with cobb AP
Q4 - Any noteworthy trouble spots in certain model years (other than engine?) to avoid in the used car market? (I'd like to get a one or two year old car with 20-30k miles) Avoid 04/05 if there isn't an extensive documentation of it's repair/TSB history
Q5 - Is the R3 package just the shizzle / "gotta have" or can I get there by adding what options / modifications?
IIRC, the R3 is slower than previous years (because of weight reasons), but should come out being slightly better handling. You can buy mods for cheap to build up to R3 level in handling
Q6 - Are track people having a tight fit in the cockpit with a helmet on?
Thanks for any and all assistance, and congrats on a great car ... I have no loyalty to the brand, and short of having another $25k to spend, the RX8 is the best deal going for track carving!
As addt'l background, I drove pretty much everything ... Elise, Z, Evo, STi, C6 Vette, Cayman, the new Genesis ... I'm going with the RX8 because the car has an incredibly balanced feel to it ala' Cayman and Elise, is not overpowered (Vette) thereby making it too easy to catch up and "hide" mistakes on track, and does not drive for me with fancy electronics to also oover up errors in my technique (EVO, STI)
I also enjoy working a rev happy engine in F1 fashion, and 0-60 in 6 seconds is plenty enuff fun ... again, it's really the road course handling prowess at an incredible value that sold me ... if someone tells you its not fast enough, reply "not on the dragstrip, but on the road course, it out handles exotics if you know how to put it to work"
It doesn't cost an arm and leg, (sorry, a concession to the new economy as I'd love to get a Cayman S) , and now there's a warranty extension on the engine removing that fear, and dang it, I can't dismiss of the real world need of occassionally but desperately needing a back seat for kid and kid friend logistics ... if I went with an Elise or Cayman or Vette I'd also need to pop for a daily driver, and I really don't want to own two cars
So there we are, some questions I have, and my apologies in advance as I'm sure these are posted here and there (sorry search ****'s), but I don't have the time to try and flush out and discern b.s. from fact
Q1 - What are the typical, proven modifications for the track? From the bang for the buck perspective is appreciated
Springs, sways, dampers for handling. Cobb AP (from mazdamaniac), lightweight clutch (BHR has a 8.98lbs one), short throw shifter (axial flow engineering), 4.777s (for 08 and older) and that's really the only thing worth the points for the track, but you can also look at BHRs Yukon coils and a catless midpipe
Q2 - Are people running heavier 30 weight oil or pretty much using the factory "req'd" 0w20 for gas mileage sake?
People swear either way. This is more of a personal decision call. Check some older threads for background (search)
Q3 - What's the general real world range for gas mileage?
city-14-16 highway18-23 It will improve with cobb AP
Q4 - Any noteworthy trouble spots in certain model years (other than engine?) to avoid in the used car market? (I'd like to get a one or two year old car with 20-30k miles) Avoid 04/05 if there isn't an extensive documentation of it's repair/TSB history
Q5 - Is the R3 package just the shizzle / "gotta have" or can I get there by adding what options / modifications?
IIRC, the R3 is slower than previous years (because of weight reasons), but should come out being slightly better handling. You can buy mods for cheap to build up to R3 level in handling
Q6 - Are track people having a tight fit in the cockpit with a helmet on?
Thanks for any and all assistance, and congrats on a great car ... I have no loyalty to the brand, and short of having another $25k to spend, the RX8 is the best deal going for track carving!
Last edited by Transam kid 01; 06-17-2009 at 02:04 PM.
06-17-2009, 02:10 PM
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Q1 - I havnt tracked/auto-x'd mine enough to know for sure, but brakes & tires would be the best from all ive heard. This car is pretty much set to go for track use as-is, minus maybe brake pads unless you are very serious
Q2 - I do 5-30
Q3 - I get ~17 overall, mostly city
Q4 - dunno
Q5 - dunno, but the seats are great on the R3
Q6 - I'm 6'3", and have some trouble, but I have the leather/power seats and sunroof which both take away headroom. I can fit, but i kinda have to stick my head into the area just below the sunroof glass. I do fit ok into the sport model (cloth seat, no sunroof) though. Take your helmet with you when you try out the car just to check.
Q2 - I do 5-30
Q3 - I get ~17 overall, mostly city
Q4 - dunno
Q5 - dunno, but the seats are great on the R3
Q6 - I'm 6'3", and have some trouble, but I have the leather/power seats and sunroof which both take away headroom. I can fit, but i kinda have to stick my head into the area just below the sunroof glass. I do fit ok into the sport model (cloth seat, no sunroof) though. Take your helmet with you when you try out the car just to check.
06-17-2009, 02:30 PM
#19
Seems to be some confusion about the "sport" model. Well, it is confusing, but if you are looking for a track car you may want this info:
04-05: The sport model was one trim level up from the base model. It added DSC/TCS, HID headlights and foglights. It has no sunroof and cloth seats. This is what I have.
06-08: The base model was renamed the sport model. To add the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs, you had to add the performance package.
09: The sport model is still the base but there is no longer a performance package to add. The touring model adds the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs (along with a 6 disc changer and homelink mirror), but not a sunroof like previous years. That is the closest to the original sport model with the 09s.
04-05: The sport model was one trim level up from the base model. It added DSC/TCS, HID headlights and foglights. It has no sunroof and cloth seats. This is what I have.
06-08: The base model was renamed the sport model. To add the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs, you had to add the performance package.
09: The sport model is still the base but there is no longer a performance package to add. The touring model adds the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs (along with a 6 disc changer and homelink mirror), but not a sunroof like previous years. That is the closest to the original sport model with the 09s.
06-17-2009, 03:34 PM
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Seems to be some confusion about the "sport" model. Well, it is confusing, but if you are looking for a track car you may want this info:
04-05: The sport model was one trim level up from the base model. It added DSC/TCS, HID headlights and foglights. It has no sunroof and cloth seats. This is what I have.
06-08: The base model was renamed the sport model. To add the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs, you had to add the performance package.
09: The sport model is still the base but there is no longer a performance package to add. The touring model adds the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs (along with a 6 disc changer and homelink mirror), but not a sunroof like previous years. That is the closest to the original sport model with the 09s.
04-05: The sport model was one trim level up from the base model. It added DSC/TCS, HID headlights and foglights. It has no sunroof and cloth seats. This is what I have.
06-08: The base model was renamed the sport model. To add the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs, you had to add the performance package.
09: The sport model is still the base but there is no longer a performance package to add. The touring model adds the DSC/TCS, HIDs and fogs (along with a 6 disc changer and homelink mirror), but not a sunroof like previous years. That is the closest to the original sport model with the 09s.
I'll be doing the standard mods (better pads, fluid, steel brake lines, K & N, etc), but would like to know about using the factory uprated suspension items on a base 06 RX8 ... are their unique springs to the higher perf models in addition to the Bilstein's? Unique suspension bushings?
Also can someone go more in depth as to what the Cobb AP is ... an ECU program, correct? If an ECU mod that dealers are tuned into looking for, with this engine's history, I'd think they use that as a ready reason to deny warranty work
Finally, any unique issues / special tools needed to do a brake job ... I'm regularly doing pads & rotors
Good info all, thanks again
06-17-2009, 03:48 PM
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For the brakes, you need the standard brake tool to turn the rear pistons back in see here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-how-change-your-rear-brake-pads-172382/
The fronts require you have a skinnier 17mm open end wrench to get the calipers off... some you can find at the store will do the trick, I ground down one to make it fit
Pretty easy other than those 2 details
I am pretty sure the springs, shocks were the same on all 6 speed models (sport suspension)
The fronts require you have a skinnier 17mm open end wrench to get the calipers off... some you can find at the store will do the trick, I ground down one to make it fit
Pretty easy other than those 2 details
I am pretty sure the springs, shocks were the same on all 6 speed models (sport suspension)
06-17-2009, 04:13 PM
#22
Q1: I don't track the car much but would look into - Sway bars and ignition coil upgrades.
Q2: Yes, I run 10w30 and some people who really race the car are using 10w40. This is fine to run because this heavy weight oils are run in Australia and Europe. US runs 5w20 because of emission concerns. Also some engines that were tore down showed ware in the bearing running 5w20 so higher weight is recommended. Just don't tell Mazda.
Q3: City 11 to 16 MPG depending on the congestion. I get 13 MPG in Chicago city streets. Highway will be on average 18 to 22 depending how fast and how aggressive you drive. The car is a gas hog.
Q4: Just the engine mostly in 04s and some 05s. The oil metering fix that was suppose to remedy this came out in early 06 so I would consider late model 05 safe. The new models have better oiling but premixing does seem to be a good idea. I have started to do it myself. From tear downs the oiling system appears inadequate and undoubtedly contributed to the engine failures.
Q5: I don't know but the new model does have a few upgrades which make it a better car. New transmission(2nd gear on the oil one is a weak point), different diameter half shafts, 2 piece drive shaft among other which are nice to have but I dislike the new styling.
Q6: I'm 5'10" and when I sit the seat back pretty upright I only have a inch between my head and ceiling but I do have a sun roof. If you drive in a reclined position you obviously have more room.
Q2: Yes, I run 10w30 and some people who really race the car are using 10w40. This is fine to run because this heavy weight oils are run in Australia and Europe. US runs 5w20 because of emission concerns. Also some engines that were tore down showed ware in the bearing running 5w20 so higher weight is recommended. Just don't tell Mazda.
Q3: City 11 to 16 MPG depending on the congestion. I get 13 MPG in Chicago city streets. Highway will be on average 18 to 22 depending how fast and how aggressive you drive. The car is a gas hog.
Q4: Just the engine mostly in 04s and some 05s. The oil metering fix that was suppose to remedy this came out in early 06 so I would consider late model 05 safe. The new models have better oiling but premixing does seem to be a good idea. I have started to do it myself. From tear downs the oiling system appears inadequate and undoubtedly contributed to the engine failures.
Q5: I don't know but the new model does have a few upgrades which make it a better car. New transmission(2nd gear on the oil one is a weak point), different diameter half shafts, 2 piece drive shaft among other which are nice to have but I dislike the new styling.
Q6: I'm 5'10" and when I sit the seat back pretty upright I only have a inch between my head and ceiling but I do have a sun roof. If you drive in a reclined position you obviously have more room.
06-17-2009, 04:28 PM
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Good info, thanks again
I think from poking at the subject, I'd really want to do premix for track days (reminds me of having my old 2 stroke motox bikes)
For those that do this, we just measuring out a quantity of oil for a full tank, dumping in and doing some herky-jerky stuff to dilute it out?
I think from poking at the subject, I'd really want to do premix for track days (reminds me of having my old 2 stroke motox bikes)
For those that do this, we just measuring out a quantity of oil for a full tank, dumping in and doing some herky-jerky stuff to dilute it out?