Decisions Decisions...need HELP
12-26-2011, 08:40 PM
#1
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Decisions Decisions...need HELP
Guys and gals, I need some discussion here to help me make a big decision. EDIT 01.01.12: KEEPING THE 8....Need help with all the repairs.
I've had some minor and a couple major problems with the 8 over the last 18 months and need some help deciding if I should fix it up and keep it or move on to a new car.
-2004 Black RX8 bought in March 2004. 75,800 miles.
-New engine at 66,000 miles (November 2010) after spending a few hundred dollars before they decided to replace it.
Problems:
-shaking steering wheel in the morning/sluggish steering once in a while...dealer insists it is the "electronic steering gear motor/module" and not the wiring harness. ($2100)
-back tires hitting wheel wells on very minor bumps/pavement height change. I think probably the struts ($700)..possibly front need to be done also
-2 new front tires ($400)
-some form of 75000 mile service (fluids, etc)...($160 for 3 fluids)
-front bumper clips broken/underside panels loose...replace bumper/lip/panels? ($500+)
Couple things that have been out for a while but I just deal with it:
-gas gauge stops at 1/4 tank, no light so I have to make sure and get gas shortly after it gets there.
-coolant level light on due to stuck gauge
Do I put this kind of money into an 8 year old RX8 that might have more problems in the not too distant future? Or can I count on the 8 to make it at least 2 or 3 more years to make this worth it?
There are a lot of people that talk about the RX8, especially the 2004 models, as becoming too expensive to maintain. I've never kept a car this long before and dont want to be running to the repair shop every 6 months (like i have been for a couple years already).
Thanks in advance
I've had some minor and a couple major problems with the 8 over the last 18 months and need some help deciding if I should fix it up and keep it or move on to a new car.
-2004 Black RX8 bought in March 2004. 75,800 miles.
-New engine at 66,000 miles (November 2010) after spending a few hundred dollars before they decided to replace it.
Problems:
-shaking steering wheel in the morning/sluggish steering once in a while...dealer insists it is the "electronic steering gear motor/module" and not the wiring harness. ($2100)
-back tires hitting wheel wells on very minor bumps/pavement height change. I think probably the struts ($700)..possibly front need to be done also
-2 new front tires ($400)
-some form of 75000 mile service (fluids, etc)...($160 for 3 fluids)
-front bumper clips broken/underside panels loose...replace bumper/lip/panels? ($500+)
Couple things that have been out for a while but I just deal with it:
-gas gauge stops at 1/4 tank, no light so I have to make sure and get gas shortly after it gets there.
-coolant level light on due to stuck gauge
Do I put this kind of money into an 8 year old RX8 that might have more problems in the not too distant future? Or can I count on the 8 to make it at least 2 or 3 more years to make this worth it?
There are a lot of people that talk about the RX8, especially the 2004 models, as becoming too expensive to maintain. I've never kept a car this long before and dont want to be running to the repair shop every 6 months (like i have been for a couple years already).
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Pinhy; 01-01-2012 at 05:26 PM. Reason: updated list
12-26-2011, 11:38 PM
#3
1.) How much do you like the car?
2.) Can you afford to sell it (or trade it in) and get another car you enjoy just as much?
3.) Need to troubleshoot that steering problem further, and be sure it's a $2100 repair. That really seems like the only significant issue.
It's really a personal decision. I love my 8 so much, that I'm not sure I see the day that I part with her. It's been a long long time since I've had a car that was more about fun than practicality.
2.) Can you afford to sell it (or trade it in) and get another car you enjoy just as much?
3.) Need to troubleshoot that steering problem further, and be sure it's a $2100 repair. That really seems like the only significant issue.
It's really a personal decision. I love my 8 so much, that I'm not sure I see the day that I part with her. It's been a long long time since I've had a car that was more about fun than practicality.
12-27-2011, 08:28 AM
#4
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monchie: I had to google "pinay" to find out what it means, and No. pinhy = pin high (golf term)
wingznut:
1. love the car still (if it would behave).
2. I've test driven a few cars and talked numbers and was planning to get the Hyundai Genesis Coupe. But as much as I love the 8...no.
3. That's what people keep saying, but I was back at the dealer yesterday asking if it could possibly be the wiring harness and they say no, they are sure its the motor.
wingznut:
1. love the car still (if it would behave).
2. I've test driven a few cars and talked numbers and was planning to get the Hyundai Genesis Coupe. But as much as I love the 8...no.
3. That's what people keep saying, but I was back at the dealer yesterday asking if it could possibly be the wiring harness and they say no, they are sure its the motor.
12-27-2011, 09:03 AM
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if money is tight you could always cheap out on some of the fixes for now suchas:
-2 new front tires ($400) buy cheapo tires for now, when i was out of a job my tires were showing the threads so i got some cheap 100 dollar tires to hold me over.
-some form of 75000 mile service (fluids, etc)...($300??) if you are just going to change the fulids do it your self, they are not really that hard to do.
-front bumper clips broken/underside panels loose...replace bumper/lip/panels? ($500+) duct tape, zip ties, jb weld, all good temperary solutions.
as far as mho if the car w/o the repairs is worth more than the cost of the repairs then its worth do the repairs and keeping the car. (i keep cars for 10+ yrs)
-2 new front tires ($400) buy cheapo tires for now, when i was out of a job my tires were showing the threads so i got some cheap 100 dollar tires to hold me over.
-some form of 75000 mile service (fluids, etc)...($300??) if you are just going to change the fulids do it your self, they are not really that hard to do.
-front bumper clips broken/underside panels loose...replace bumper/lip/panels? ($500+) duct tape, zip ties, jb weld, all good temperary solutions.
as far as mho if the car w/o the repairs is worth more than the cost of the repairs then its worth do the repairs and keeping the car. (i keep cars for 10+ yrs)
12-27-2011, 09:13 AM
#6
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Problems:
-shaking steering wheel in the morning/sluggish steering once in a while...dealer insists it is the "electronic steering gear motor/module" and not the wiring harness. ($2100)
-back tires hitting wheel wells on very minor bumps/pavement height change. I think probably the struts ($700)..possibly front need to be done also
-2 new front tires ($400)
-some form of 75000 mile service (fluids, etc)...($300??)
-front bumper clips broken/underside panels loose...replace bumper/lip/panels? ($500+)
-shaking steering wheel in the morning/sluggish steering once in a while...dealer insists it is the "electronic steering gear motor/module" and not the wiring harness. ($2100)
-back tires hitting wheel wells on very minor bumps/pavement height change. I think probably the struts ($700)..possibly front need to be done also
-2 new front tires ($400)
-some form of 75000 mile service (fluids, etc)...($300??)
-front bumper clips broken/underside panels loose...replace bumper/lip/panels? ($500+)
Struts would not cause the tires to hit the wheel wells. Something else is going on. Are you running stock wheels & tires? Has the rear suspension been damaged or modified?
12-27-2011, 11:08 AM
#7
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As mentioned, the Steering and "struts" are the big problems. All the other stuff is just "on top of the big problems, I have all these other things to do" items that add up to quite a bit more $$
I've read the threads on the steering. The good input there is why I have asked both the service manager and the tech that worked on the car if there is any chance it is the harness....they both say no. I even told them if it is the harness they will get this work and more from me b/c i will keep the car...if it is bigger, I will probably be getting a new car (not a Mazda). I've gone to this dealer for 7 years, so I trust them (as much as a dealer can be trusted anyway).
I have been running 19's for a few years now on aftermarket springs that are about 1" low. But this banging on even the smallest bumps is relatively new. It would need to be checked,struts were my guess.
I've read the threads on the steering. The good input there is why I have asked both the service manager and the tech that worked on the car if there is any chance it is the harness....they both say no. I even told them if it is the harness they will get this work and more from me b/c i will keep the car...if it is bigger, I will probably be getting a new car (not a Mazda). I've gone to this dealer for 7 years, so I trust them (as much as a dealer can be trusted anyway).
I have been running 19's for a few years now on aftermarket springs that are about 1" low. But this banging on even the smallest bumps is relatively new. It would need to be checked,struts were my guess.
12-27-2011, 11:34 AM
#8
It's honestly how much you love the car.
People buy 18 year old Rx-7s and pay a lot to maintain them because they love the car.
If you feel your 7-8 year old Rx-8 is too old and doesn't deserve regular maintenance that's up to you.
Also, keep in mind, if you purchased your car in 04, then it's most likely paid off so it'd be a lot cheaper to pay a bit and keep it going rather than dishing out thousands for a new car to only have it depreciate $6,000 within the first year.
People buy 18 year old Rx-7s and pay a lot to maintain them because they love the car.
If you feel your 7-8 year old Rx-8 is too old and doesn't deserve regular maintenance that's up to you.
Also, keep in mind, if you purchased your car in 04, then it's most likely paid off so it'd be a lot cheaper to pay a bit and keep it going rather than dishing out thousands for a new car to only have it depreciate $6,000 within the first year.
12-27-2011, 01:42 PM
#9
Get a used steering rack off of a wreck with no front end damage....I got a spare a long time ago for $150 
Go look for the front clip parts you need at the same time
Buy 2 qts of tranny fluid ( Synthetic = about $20..Redline MT90 is nice) and 2 qts of Diff fluid aslo about $20.
You should lubricate the caliper slides on your brakes as well
Otherwise you are likely good to go for a while
Go look for the front clip parts you need at the same time Buy 2 qts of tranny fluid ( Synthetic = about $20..Redline MT90 is nice) and 2 qts of Diff fluid aslo about $20.
You should lubricate the caliper slides on your brakes as well
Otherwise you are likely good to go for a while
12-27-2011, 03:08 PM
#10
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Yeah, I thought so... The stock bump stops are designed to limit suspension travel so tire contact with the wheel well cannot happen, regardless of the strut/damper condition ... well, assuming factory-spec hubs, wheels, tires, springs, etc. This issue is more related to those modifications than the strut condition.
12-27-2011, 03:33 PM
#11
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I haven't gotten into the air box removal and checking the harness. I really dont like taking apart my car without someone with some know-how (and tools) along side. Any advice on a cheap place to take it and have them do it?
My overall diameter of the tires is actually less than stock, so that shouldn't be the problem. Like I said, it was fine for the longest time.
Add to the list above (a couple items I forgot all about since I have just been ignoring it):
-gas gauge stops at 1/4 tank, no light so I have to make sure and get gas shortly after it gets there.
-coolant level light on due to stuck gauge
My overall diameter of the tires is actually less than stock, so that shouldn't be the problem. Like I said, it was fine for the longest time.
Add to the list above (a couple items I forgot all about since I have just been ignoring it):
-gas gauge stops at 1/4 tank, no light so I have to make sure and get gas shortly after it gets there.
-coolant level light on due to stuck gauge
Last edited by Pinhy; 12-27-2011 at 04:12 PM.
12-27-2011, 04:32 PM
#12
The steering issue WILL BE FIXED by replacing the wiring harness. It costs $108. Replacing the rack will also do it, but thats just silly. (simple cleaning of the harness may fix it, but may not. just replace it and be done with it.) I'm not trying to bash experienced technicians, but they simply follow the factory repair workup - which usually tells them that the EPS module or the rack itself is to blame, when time and time again it's been shown that just cleaning or replacing the harness takes care of it.
If you read all the reports on this site carefully, I don't believe there has ever been a case where it was conclusively due to something other than the harness. People get confused because when you replace the rack you replace the harness along with it, so they wrongly think the rack was the problem.
There, we just saved you $2000 - keep the lovely car!
If you read all the reports on this site carefully, I don't believe there has ever been a case where it was conclusively due to something other than the harness. People get confused because when you replace the rack you replace the harness along with it, so they wrongly think the rack was the problem.
There, we just saved you $2000 - keep the lovely car!
Last edited by elysium19; 12-27-2011 at 04:35 PM.
12-27-2011, 07:40 PM
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You have a long list above that most of them can be done by yourself but you mention you don't like taking things apart.
It will be expensive if someone will do it for you.
Sell it if your planning to get a brand new one, otherwise fix it.
It will be expensive if someone will do it for you.
Sell it if your planning to get a brand new one, otherwise fix it.
12-27-2011, 10:43 PM
#14
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
12-28-2011, 08:01 AM
#15
All of the above stuff, and...
I just unplugged my coolant level sensor, the bottle is the problem. Check the water when you check the oil.
I am curious as to the type of springs installed. Some are better than others. Springs may be worn. I seem to remember people having problems with S-Tech awhile back. Subi folks as well. Springs are not hard, they are just work.
Gotta run.
I just unplugged my coolant level sensor, the bottle is the problem. Check the water when you check the oil.
I am curious as to the type of springs installed. Some are better than others. Springs may be worn. I seem to remember people having problems with S-Tech awhile back. Subi folks as well. Springs are not hard, they are just work.
Gotta run.
12-28-2011, 08:09 AM
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Hi all I'm a new member and I'd like some advice before dipping my toe into buying a used Mazda RX-8. Can anyone advise on what to look for as far as problems go. Is there areas I should be aware of? IE when does the engine need (new timing belt if there is one?) extra care in order not to fall over?
I've already noticed on one of the threads that someone had to fit a new engine @ 66,000 miles??? my current Peugeot a 407(I've had 5 over the last 35 yrs) is still running @ 139,000 miles with no major repair work done on it-
I have full service history and all have been done at the correct time spans)
Surely an RX-8 if driven with due care and attention can match a Peugeot?
I've already noticed on one of the threads that someone had to fit a new engine @ 66,000 miles??? my current Peugeot a 407(I've had 5 over the last 35 yrs) is still running @ 139,000 miles with no major repair work done on it-
I have full service history and all have been done at the correct time spans)
Surely an RX-8 if driven with due care and attention can match a Peugeot?
12-28-2011, 02:42 PM
#17
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Joe, 2 things:
1. Start reading the stickies ... you have a lot to learn
2. Don't hijack another topic with random questions. Start a new topic, or find one that fits your questions.
1. Start reading the stickies ... you have a lot to learn
2. Don't hijack another topic with random questions. Start a new topic, or find one that fits your questions.
12-28-2011, 04:28 PM
#18
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I am leaning toward keeping the car and fixing it up. First item will be the steering wheel shake. I am going to take advice of those above and check the wiring harness. I MAY even give this a try myself.
Next will be checking out the springs/struts. Probably at Tires Plus as they have the lifetime warranty struts I would get if that is the culprit. (Or should I go to the dealer and have them do the check? Maybe they would do the check free and let me know?
Keep the good input coming guys! You've already saved me $30k by talking me into keeping the 8 instead of buying a 2012 Genesis Coupe. I am hoping swoope, Maniac and RotaryGod swing by here and have some input on what to do for each problem....like Elysium19 and a couple others did.
Last edited by Pinhy; 12-28-2011 at 05:01 PM.
01-01-2012, 05:24 PM
#20
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Well, I've started doing some pricing research with a couple shops, but I'm just not sure which projects I could do myself and save some money. Also some parts could be ordered myself and maybe save some there too:
-IF it winds up being the struts, are these our rear struts? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...content=value4 I have a quote from Midas and they want $180 each for (I think) these.
I changed fluids at 35k miles and Midas charged me: Trans $60, Differential $50, Brake $50. Is changing these fluids about as easy as changing the oil (not that Ive changed the oil on this car, used to do it myself on previous car, but I had garage and tools to use). Should I do all 3 of these now?
Any other advice on where I should buy parts? Get service done? Links to threads you guys know about that may help?
Again, thanks for all the help.
-IF it winds up being the struts, are these our rear struts? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...content=value4 I have a quote from Midas and they want $180 each for (I think) these.
I changed fluids at 35k miles and Midas charged me: Trans $60, Differential $50, Brake $50. Is changing these fluids about as easy as changing the oil (not that Ive changed the oil on this car, used to do it myself on previous car, but I had garage and tools to use). Should I do all 3 of these now?
Any other advice on where I should buy parts? Get service done? Links to threads you guys know about that may help?
Again, thanks for all the help.
01-17-2012, 02:01 PM
#21
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UPDATE: I ordered the struts, then got lucky and met a mechanic that does work on the side. He and I (mostly he) put the struts and original springs on this weekend.....much better!
Meanwhile, I took the airbox off and cleaned and greased the P/S connectors. No change. Time to order the harness. (dealer still swears it wont help...hope he's wrong).
If I decide to do fluids myself (with help of course), what EXACTLY, and how much of each, do I need to order? dannobre mentioned above that Redline MT90 Trans fluid is good. If I am just doing a drain & flush, is synthetic the way to go even if the stuff in there isnt?
thanks again.
Meanwhile, I took the airbox off and cleaned and greased the P/S connectors. No change. Time to order the harness. (dealer still swears it wont help...hope he's wrong).
If I decide to do fluids myself (with help of course), what EXACTLY, and how much of each, do I need to order? dannobre mentioned above that Redline MT90 Trans fluid is good. If I am just doing a drain & flush, is synthetic the way to go even if the stuff in there isnt?
thanks again.
01-17-2012, 03:18 PM
#22
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UPDATE: I ordered the struts, then got lucky and met a mechanic that does work on the side. He and I (mostly he) put the struts and original springs on this weekend.....much better!
Meanwhile, I took the airbox off and cleaned and greased the P/S connectors. No change. Time to order the harness. (dealer still swears it wont help...hope he's wrong).
If I decide to do fluids myself (with help of course), what EXACTLY, and how much of each, do I need to order? dannobre mentioned above that Redline MT90 Trans fluid is good. If I am just doing a drain & flush, is synthetic the way to go even if the stuff in there isnt?
thanks again.
Meanwhile, I took the airbox off and cleaned and greased the P/S connectors. No change. Time to order the harness. (dealer still swears it wont help...hope he's wrong).
If I decide to do fluids myself (with help of course), what EXACTLY, and how much of each, do I need to order? dannobre mentioned above that Redline MT90 Trans fluid is good. If I am just doing a drain & flush, is synthetic the way to go even if the stuff in there isnt?
thanks again.
In regards to the fluids, there is a link somewhere on the forun to the factory specs manual. I also believe you can find that info in the car manual as well. I've used Redline MT90 on my truck for years with great results.
BTW, Redline MT90 is synthetic oil. I think that's all they sell on that series - i believe. And it's quite expensive, so be ready to spend some $$$ in oil!!
01-27-2012, 10:19 PM
#23
late to the show here, but if cleaning the contacts does not do it i doubt the updated harness will. there is another tq box modual in the steering i think i would give paul at mazmart a call and ask if he has it..
the tiens are low, get ride of them.. think i might be around more. send me another pm. or email me at my screen name gmail.
as to the fuel gauge issue. hat is an odd one. have not seen that yet. but it is easy to pull the pump and tap the gauge floats to see if that does it.. btw, i have the fuel pump tool..
beers
the tiens are low, get ride of them.. think i might be around more. send me another pm. or email me at my screen name gmail.
as to the fuel gauge issue. hat is an odd one. have not seen that yet. but it is easy to pull the pump and tap the gauge floats to see if that does it.. btw, i have the fuel pump tool..
beers
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