Can everyone give me the version on the deflood that you used, cause I cant seem to get the problem fixed. Im not car savy but Im triyng to save myself 150 dollars what the dealer said he would charge to fix it.

 

Auto or Manual.............

 

im having the same problem on a manual 8 any suggestions help

 

In before the searchers

 

Search for deflooding procedure. I don't feel like writing today...lol

 

New Coils,

Then it will not flood.

 

Well I won't flame for once.....However I've written this exact response multiple time.

1: Remove Spark Plugs
2: Remove Fuel pump relay
3: crank 10sec at a time till all excess fuel is removed(out spark plug holes)
4: Reinstall Plugs and relay
5: start normally

*Could squirt a TINY TINY amount of oil in the spark plug holes to help seal up the combustion chamber. If you are confused about this don't even try it.

**I am in no way responsible for you messing up

 

You know...there is a DIY (do it yourself) for this...

 

I bought a 2004 RX-8 about a year ago, I changed the oil but forgot to change the spark plugs. I had to move my car for some tree trimming and shut it off before allowing it to run for an extended period of time. My car has been flooded for 3 days now and I can't seem to get it started. I was able to reach one of the spark plug cables and when I pulled it off the terminal I noticed that the terminal had rust on it. I already bought new NGK plugs. My question is could the rusty spark plugs been the major problem this entire year and is this evidence that they have never been changed. The car has 89000 miles on it and never really performed to my expectations (slow take and lack of power in first gear). The car also had a rough idle. Or am I in store for something a little more sinister. I'll post pictures when I get them out. I have a limited knowledge of rotary engines or engines at all.

 

If you have that many miles, and do not know if the plugs and coils have been changed, change both. Then see how it does.

Also, for a short move, let it at lest run for a minute then quickly rev to 3,000 RPM and turn off the key. That will cut fuel, and the spin down should get most of the gas out of the rotors.

 

I changed the plugs and I'm going to need new wires. The battery didn't have enough cold cranking amps to start it so I used a marine battery with 950 cold crank amps. It took the better part of 3 hours with that battery put it didn't die. It still ran like crap for about an hour. The new plugs made the car run better than it ever had.

 

After 6 years and 67,000 miles I get to try this out for myself. Fingers crossed.

Last time I drove it to work, ran fine and strong.
Plugs/coils/wires have less then 6000 miles FWIW.
Sunday I moved it from the driveway to the garage, and shut it down. Last night it wouldn't start. While cranking it sure seemed like it turned fast...hmmm. Popped a couple times not enough to light up. Smelled gas. Tried some ether, but no go.

In a few minutes I'll go pull the plugs and clear it out.

Fingers crossed.....

Update....

Pulled bottom plugs.
Pulled wires out of coils.
Removed fuel pump fuse.
Cranked it 1 minute; plenty of gas was in the chambers.
Waited 10 minutes.
Cranked it again 1 minute; not much gas but some.
Waited 10 minutes.
Cranked it again 1 minute; no gas.
Looked at plugs; not bad looking.
Put plugs back in, reconnected wires & re-installed fuse.
Cranks but no start.
Sure seems to spin fast; never spun that fast before.

Next I'll charge it, replace all 4 plugs and check for spark. If that doesn't work its off to the dealer.
I can't help but to wonder about the fast cranking speed all of a sudden.

 

I remember that sound well from my old RX-7. The next day I was buying a new engine.

 

Spin nice and fast with no compression Deflood it and the compression should come back