hey guys make a long story short i recently burned my clutch so i was looking to buy a new one i have been looking at some Spect stage 2 clutch kit and i was wondering if you recomend me this clutch kit or another one. I usually use my 8 for DD but about every other week i take it to the track and do some racing/drifting
thanx

 

PM Charles R. Hill - he's a forum vendor, but from what I've read he will listen to your usage and recommend you the best solution he knows about, whether or not he will ultimately make a sale.

Also, wherever or whatever you buy, get an all-metal throwout bearing from Charles. It'll save you noise and aggravation....


(disclaimer: I've no business interests with Charles or BHR).

 

alright thanx man

 

i think the spec stage two would be fine for the street as well as hold up to the abuse of track use. spec clutches are of a nice quality.

 

I'm not sure you will really need stage II, but if you want it, I recommend going to charles R. Hill. He will help you out with choosing your best set up.

I have a stage 1 SPEC with 9lb flywheel and ACT counter weight and I love it.

 

^I also agree that u prob dont' need a state II a I will b plenty but like everyone else said BHR is the place to go

 

question, how many miles are on your car?

 

Don't need a heavy duty clutch unless your going FI
.

 

You just burnt your clutch? Or your clutch is slipping?

I've burnt my clutch a few times pulling outta school

 

and dont' need performance clutch unless ur gonna push quite a bit of HP on FI

 

I demand your milage!!!

 

54k and i was just thinking i would need it since im using it for the track/drifting so all u guys recomend stage 1?

 

i do plan on doing some minor mods later down the road but wat would be the down side of buying a stage II other than $$$?

 

^not really a downside except a little "harder" to drive as a DD nothing bad just not as practical

 

I dont know if you have bought your new clutch yet. But, mine just went out with about 80000 miles on it and I bought a 6 Puck Stage 3 SPEC clutch. If you're using it for drifting and stuff like that I would go with something a little higher then stage 1. I have a buddy with a 240sx who uses it for drifting and sometimes daily driving and if i remember right he has a stage 5 in it. just wanted to give you my thoughts on what your doing. But, just like 04RX8man said above is that it is going to be a little harder to push down. But, u'll adjust to it and won't even notice it after a while.

 

Talk to Charles R. Hill. And I don't think you will need anything over a Stage 1

Stage 1, 300 lb./ft.(approx 425+ h.p.), SZ481, full-face organic, sprung hub

Stage 2, 349 lb./ft.(approx. 500+ h.p.), SZ482, segmented Kevlar, sprung hub

Stage 2+, 389 lb./ft.(approx. 550+ h.p.), SZ483H, segmented carbon/Kevlar, sprung hub

Stage 3, 440 lb./ft.(approx. 600+ h.p.), SZ483, high-clamp plate, 4/6 puck, carbon/semi-met, sprung hub

Stage 3+, 492 lb./ft.(approx. 700+ h.p.), SZ483F, high-clamp plate, full-face carbon/metallic, sprung hub

Stage 4, 440 lb./ft.(approx. 600+ h.p.), SZ484, high-clamp plate, 3/4/6 puck, carbon/semi-met, solid hub

Stage 5, 582 lb./ft.(approx. 800+ h.p.), SZ485, high-clamp plate, rigid iron disc


What makes them unique is that the BHR design pressure plates are almost 4 lbs. lighter than standard all-steel units by using steel-faced aluminum for the pressure ring in the same fashion as we use in the flywheels. The pressure plate friction surfaces are also replaceable.