Check Engine light
#26
Rotary Wanker
You DO know the reason you're getting the TPMS light is because the wheel sending units weren't transferred to the winter tires. As for the CEL, considering the dealer changed out your plugs, maybe one of them had a misfire. That would trigger a light too.
Last edited by Ericok; 01-12-2008 at 12:29 AM.
#27
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Thanks for the info on the plugs. I didn't really think about those as they were changed this past Monday.
#28
You can try to disconnect the negative side of the battery for ten minutes. While it's off, go step on the brake pedal for awhile to bleed anything left in the system and then hook it back up and go for a drive. It might do the trick or it may take two or three drive cycles.
#29
Dialn24 - I might have missed it, but did you get the CEL code? if you don't notice any difference in performance, and it's a solid CEL light, then it's something that errored and subsided.
1. Get the CEL code, if it came on or was blinking on startup, then it might have been a sensor getting high emmissions, or something as silly. You would definitly notice a misfire if it stumbled on startup, since you didn't mention that or difference in performance, it's most likely a sensor that triggered at the fault tolerance...
2. It's nice to check the whatifs if you don't have an immediete moment to get the CEL code, since you JUST bought it, you can also bring it by the dealer to have it pulled if there isn't an autozone or a Schucks that will let u use there scanner for free.. "the scanner also clears CEL lights".
3. this is want the bumper to bumper warrenty is for, to cover all the parts that didn't get caught during inspection at assembly. Since you bought it new i'm sure the lemon law can come into effect if you start having MAJOR malfuctions.
4. the solid CEL will go away if the sensor doesn't alarm after about 10 start cycles, or if no other sensors trigger.
It's the blinking CEL is when you should pull over and drop the rpm's, that's a sign of potential part damage to either something on the engine or a critical part /brakes,transmission... etc.
once the kinks get worked out on your no0b car, you should be happy... until i pass you slide ways
Last piece of advice, don't post bitching about the car, post issues... alot of people here are here because we care about our car. regardless of the kinks that need to be worked out on the Renesis engine (you've yet to experience i think). Please be specific to the issue, and we'll do our best to help instead of flamming yer **** :D
Have a good weekend!
1. Get the CEL code, if it came on or was blinking on startup, then it might have been a sensor getting high emmissions, or something as silly. You would definitly notice a misfire if it stumbled on startup, since you didn't mention that or difference in performance, it's most likely a sensor that triggered at the fault tolerance...
2. It's nice to check the whatifs if you don't have an immediete moment to get the CEL code, since you JUST bought it, you can also bring it by the dealer to have it pulled if there isn't an autozone or a Schucks that will let u use there scanner for free.. "the scanner also clears CEL lights".
3. this is want the bumper to bumper warrenty is for, to cover all the parts that didn't get caught during inspection at assembly. Since you bought it new i'm sure the lemon law can come into effect if you start having MAJOR malfuctions.
4. the solid CEL will go away if the sensor doesn't alarm after about 10 start cycles, or if no other sensors trigger.
It's the blinking CEL is when you should pull over and drop the rpm's, that's a sign of potential part damage to either something on the engine or a critical part /brakes,transmission... etc.
once the kinks get worked out on your no0b car, you should be happy... until i pass you slide ways
Last piece of advice, don't post bitching about the car, post issues... alot of people here are here because we care about our car. regardless of the kinks that need to be worked out on the Renesis engine (you've yet to experience i think). Please be specific to the issue, and we'll do our best to help instead of flamming yer **** :D
Have a good weekend!
#30
last part. If the dealer starts becoming ******** for you bringing your 'warrentied' car by as a due diligent owner vs a negligent owner. then find a new dealer, get to know the mechanics...
Unfortunatly this is a Ferrari type car that requires the same type of maintenance in order to have fun.
Unfortunatly this is a Ferrari type car that requires the same type of maintenance in order to have fun.
#31
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Dialn24 - I might have missed it, but did you get the CEL code? if you don't notice any difference in performance, and it's a solid CEL light, then it's something that errored and subsided.
1. Get the CEL code, if it came on or was blinking on startup, then it might have been a sensor getting high emmissions, or something as silly. You would definitly notice a misfire if it stumbled on startup, since you didn't mention that or difference in performance, it's most likely a sensor that triggered at the fault tolerance...
2. It's nice to check the whatifs if you don't have an immediete moment to get the CEL code, since you JUST bought it, you can also bring it by the dealer to have it pulled if there isn't an autozone or a Schucks that will let u use there scanner for free.. "the scanner also clears CEL lights".
3. this is want the bumper to bumper warrenty is for, to cover all the parts that didn't get caught during inspection at assembly. Since you bought it new i'm sure the lemon law can come into effect if you start having MAJOR malfuctions.
4. the solid CEL will go away if the sensor doesn't alarm after about 10 start cycles, or if no other sensors trigger.
It's the blinking CEL is when you should pull over and drop the rpm's, that's a sign of potential part damage to either something on the engine or a critical part /brakes,transmission... etc.
once the kinks get worked out on your no0b car, you should be happy... until i pass you slide ways
Last piece of advice, don't post bitching about the car, post issues... alot of people here are here because we care about our car. regardless of the kinks that need to be worked out on the Renesis engine (you've yet to experience i think). Please be specific to the issue, and we'll do our best to help instead of flamming yer **** :D
Have a good weekend!
1. Get the CEL code, if it came on or was blinking on startup, then it might have been a sensor getting high emmissions, or something as silly. You would definitly notice a misfire if it stumbled on startup, since you didn't mention that or difference in performance, it's most likely a sensor that triggered at the fault tolerance...
2. It's nice to check the whatifs if you don't have an immediete moment to get the CEL code, since you JUST bought it, you can also bring it by the dealer to have it pulled if there isn't an autozone or a Schucks that will let u use there scanner for free.. "the scanner also clears CEL lights".
3. this is want the bumper to bumper warrenty is for, to cover all the parts that didn't get caught during inspection at assembly. Since you bought it new i'm sure the lemon law can come into effect if you start having MAJOR malfuctions.
4. the solid CEL will go away if the sensor doesn't alarm after about 10 start cycles, or if no other sensors trigger.
It's the blinking CEL is when you should pull over and drop the rpm's, that's a sign of potential part damage to either something on the engine or a critical part /brakes,transmission... etc.
once the kinks get worked out on your no0b car, you should be happy... until i pass you slide ways
Last piece of advice, don't post bitching about the car, post issues... alot of people here are here because we care about our car. regardless of the kinks that need to be worked out on the Renesis engine (you've yet to experience i think). Please be specific to the issue, and we'll do our best to help instead of flamming yer **** :D
Have a good weekend!
As far as the CEL, it's on solid and the car seems to be running fine. It's probably no big deal. I checked the gas gap and put it back on yesterday. ON my way to work this morning, I also stopped and got gas as I seen in the manual low fuel or the gas cap can cause this. Basically, it came on yesterday when I started as I left work. Never went out and is a solid light, it's not blinking.
As far as people liking their cars, that's totally cool. I've had a 300ZX, 350Z, and now an RX8. I get these issues behind me, I think this car has a strong chance to be my favorite one. I'm just frustrated with having issues on a brand new car. I starting to think those are more dealer oriented then car oriented though. How they didn't notice the lights being wrong is beyond me (I'm not totally convinced this isn't an adjustment issue the more I think about it. I just am not sure the tech knew what the hell he was doing). Granted, I guess I should have made more of an issue instead of asking about it and taking their word of how they looked. That was my mistake.
Last edited by Dialn24; 01-12-2008 at 05:18 PM. Reason: .......
#32
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Same thing happened to me. Second day I had the car I got a CEL. Took it to the dealer, turned out I had a faulty CAT from factory. They changed it no problem and it was all good from then.
#34
Seriously.. FML..
You're saying the TPMS light doesn't turn on or you don't have any installed? Weird thing with my TPMS light is that it turns on when the weather has drastically changed from hot to cold. I'm guessing its normal because of the cold air.. It turns off after awhile.
#35
Out of NYC
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and I check my tires pressure every 3-4 weeks. its very steady within the 1+/- psi range.
The driver side always lose more air than the passenger side tho. maybe by an extra 0.5 psi or so.
Oh by the way I keep all my tires inflated @ 33 psi. not the Stock 32 that Mazda recommends.
if you're tires loose a lot of air within a short period of time, I suggest you to check the valve stem. Cuz when I first got my car, 1 of them failed. replaced, nothing happen ever since.
if its too high or too low, check to see if you hit a nail somewhere. and what kind of air you put in. Cuz if I pump air around my exhaust, the air will not be a steady, but hey, thats just what I've observed.
Last edited by nycgps; 01-13-2008 at 12:14 AM.
#37
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
52 ure tire would have blown
Its more like around 36 or 37. it should be within the 5 psi +/- range.
well, for me it is.
everytime my tpms warning came on was the time that I hit some nail ... over the 2 yrs something ownership, it cost me 1 brand new tire and maybe 5 repairs ....
#40
Out of NYC
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i correct myself.. dont want to give out bad info...
it is 49psi..
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-04-1374a.pdf
beers
it is 49psi..
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-04-1374a.pdf
beers
cuz I swear it went off once when it was like 39 psi ~~~
o well. Im ok with it.
#41
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I remember a thread were we were discussing this because someone was inflating(or their tire person inflated) their tires to about 52psi and they couldn't understand why they had the TPMS light!
I swear, we finally convinced them to go let pressure out and at least run somewhere between 32 and 37.
My low side will go off at 26psi, and I don't really wanna find the high side, but safe to assume it's right around 49-50psi as swoope says. He was involved in that whole thread fiasco as well if I remember correctly.
I swear, we finally convinced them to go let pressure out and at least run somewhere between 32 and 37.
My low side will go off at 26psi, and I don't really wanna find the high side, but safe to assume it's right around 49-50psi as swoope says. He was involved in that whole thread fiasco as well if I remember correctly.
#44
Extraordinary Engineering
Thanks for the info. Won't be able to get the code this weekend and am going to the dealer soon (when the parts come in) for the light issue.
As far as the CEL, it's on solid and the car seems to be running fine. It's probably no big deal. I checked the gas gap and put it back on yesterday. ON my way to work this morning, I also stopped and got gas as I seen in the manual low fuel or the gas cap can cause this. Basically, it came on yesterday when I started as I left work. Never went out and is a solid light, it's not blinking.
As far as people liking their cars, that's totally cool. I've had a 300ZX, 350Z, and now an RX8. I get these issues behind me, I think this car has a strong chance to be my favorite one. I'm just frustrated with having issues on a brand new car. I starting to think those are more dealer oriented then car oriented though. How they didn't notice the lights being wrong is beyond me (I'm not totally convinced this isn't an adjustment issue the more I think about it. I just am not sure the tech knew what the hell he was doing). Granted, I guess I should have made more of an issue instead of asking about it and taking their word of how they looked. That was my mistake.
As far as the CEL, it's on solid and the car seems to be running fine. It's probably no big deal. I checked the gas gap and put it back on yesterday. ON my way to work this morning, I also stopped and got gas as I seen in the manual low fuel or the gas cap can cause this. Basically, it came on yesterday when I started as I left work. Never went out and is a solid light, it's not blinking.
As far as people liking their cars, that's totally cool. I've had a 300ZX, 350Z, and now an RX8. I get these issues behind me, I think this car has a strong chance to be my favorite one. I'm just frustrated with having issues on a brand new car. I starting to think those are more dealer oriented then car oriented though. How they didn't notice the lights being wrong is beyond me (I'm not totally convinced this isn't an adjustment issue the more I think about it. I just am not sure the tech knew what the hell he was doing). Granted, I guess I should have made more of an issue instead of asking about it and taking their word of how they looked. That was my mistake.
#45
Seriously.. FML..
Hmm. I always do inflate them when the light turns on. But I've noticed it just turns off when the weather is back around 70-80F. And on some morning when it's about 40F, the light is on. But yea, I need to check the psi.. Don't want to be running on low..
#46
Registered
If it was just a loose cap, it will take several drive cycles to clear, so you can't diagnose it just by snugging the cap. Always read the code before deciding what to do.
Ken
#47
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CEL came on as soon as you started the car? Then it's an evaporative system leak, most likely the gas cap. The car does the test while it's off, and if it flunks the light will come on immediately when you start. There are several TSBs (one of which gets treated as a recall) on this. MSP-13. Search the forum for P0455 and you'll learn more than you ever need to know about it.
If it was just a loose cap, it will take several drive cycles to clear, so you can't diagnose it just by snugging the cap. Always read the code before deciding what to do.
Ken
If it was just a loose cap, it will take several drive cycles to clear, so you can't diagnose it just by snugging the cap. Always read the code before deciding what to do.
Ken
Thanks for the info Ken.
Yes, it came on when I started it, but it just stayed illuminated instead of going off. Been like that ever since. I checked the cap, it wasn't loose. Since then, I've filled up and put the cap back on also.
#49
Registered
I had the same thing happen. Fortunately, I've got a scanner. After an anxiety-filled drive home (What if it's the self-destruct warning? Did Desmond sneak in and activate the fail-safe?) I plugged the scanner in and read P0455. Searched here and got all the poop.
I cleared the code myself. Shortly afterwards (and I forget which order) I got a recall notice and I had the dealer change the cap when Zoomy was in for an oil change.
Ken
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CEL came on as soon as you started the car? Then it's an evaporative system leak, most likely the gas cap. The car does the test while it's off, and if it flunks the light will come on immediately when you start. There are several TSBs (one of which gets treated as a recall) on this. MSP-13. Search the forum for P0455 and you'll learn more than you ever need to know about it.
If it was just a loose cap, it will take several drive cycles to clear, so you can't diagnose it just by snugging the cap. Always read the code before deciding what to do.
If it was just a loose cap, it will take several drive cycles to clear, so you can't diagnose it just by snugging the cap. Always read the code before deciding what to do.
Does anyone actually know, through actual experience, how long it takes for the light to clear itself? WILL it clear itself?
Is there a simple way to reset the computer if not?
I know I should take it into the dealer, but if that's all it is, I'd rather not lose the car for a day or whatever.