Another New Owner
#26
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After starting bring the RPM's to about 2000-2500 and hold it for 10-15 sec
Before parking the car (turning it off), rev the engine to 2000-2500 RPM's for 10-15 sec . Turn the key off while the RPM's are still up
These 2 things should keep the engine lubricated
A third thing is REDLINE the car when you drive it.. Don't be afraid to drive your 8 as it was ment to be driven .. They didn't give it all those RPM's for nothing ... This will clean up some of the build up and prevent future build up..
These are remedies you can do yourself And don't cost you anything. Compression test should cost about $120, as it is not covered be warrantee.. Which I think is retarded, because if they offered a compression test, with the warrantee, they could prevent and better mitigate bad engines. Hope this helps.
#28
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I never heard anything like that about a warrantee. I Have a bumper to bumper warrantee and was able to get dealer service, immediately. In my opinion, the other guys are right .. Compression could be an issue. Ignition coils as well .. If the starter is engaging I would say that is probally not the issue. Automatic 8's are notorious for issues due to the nature of how the engine works ... Automatics are hard to drive as intended, and most of the time they arnt maintained properly.. Granny driving causes build up in the engine. Some things Id suggest are:
After starting bring the RPM's to about 2000-2500 and hold it for 10-15 sec
Before parking the car (turning it off), rev the engine to 2000-2500 RPM's for 10-15 sec . Turn the key off while the RPM's are still up
These 2 things should keep the engine lubricated
A third thing is REDLINE the car when you drive it.. Don't be afraid to drive your 8 as it was ment to be driven .. They didn't give it all those RPM's for nothing ... This will clean up some of the build up and prevent future build up..
These are remedies you can do yourself And don't cost you anything. Compression test should cost about $120, as it is not covered be warrantee.. Which I think is retarded, because if they offered a compression test, with the warrantee, they could prevent and better mitigate bad engines. Hope this helps.
After starting bring the RPM's to about 2000-2500 and hold it for 10-15 sec
Before parking the car (turning it off), rev the engine to 2000-2500 RPM's for 10-15 sec . Turn the key off while the RPM's are still up
These 2 things should keep the engine lubricated
A third thing is REDLINE the car when you drive it.. Don't be afraid to drive your 8 as it was ment to be driven .. They didn't give it all those RPM's for nothing ... This will clean up some of the build up and prevent future build up..
These are remedies you can do yourself And don't cost you anything. Compression test should cost about $120, as it is not covered be warrantee.. Which I think is retarded, because if they offered a compression test, with the warrantee, they could prevent and better mitigate bad engines. Hope this helps.
#30
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Totally worth the possible cost.
Make sure you get the numbers!
Something like this:
Rotor1: 7.2, 7.1, 7.3
Rotor2: 7.5, 7.3, 7.4
260rpm
Insist that you get them!
#32
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The compression test is the critical one that you need to know and will provide the answer to most of your questions. I'd honestly just insist on that first. If you just say: "I don't know what is wrong", I'm betting that they will just hook up an OBD2 scanner, see that the engine isn't reporting anything, and tell you "everything seems fine!" Dealers are notorious for that.
#34
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The compression test will give you the health of the engine and the starter, which are the two most highly suspected parts at the moment. IF both are fine, then you know that the problem must be ignition or battery related, and comparatively, that is cheap and simple, even if the dealer doesn't want to acknowledge it.
If the test shows a problem with either the engine or the starter though, then well, you have found the problem and warranty should presumably cover it (I don't know the details of your warranty or the fine print).
If the test shows a problem with either the engine or the starter though, then well, you have found the problem and warranty should presumably cover it (I don't know the details of your warranty or the fine print).
#35
So I dropped the car off. Apparently the car doesn't have any problems starting today... but the car did leave me stuck at a mall parking garage that was about 7 miles away from home and it was fully warmed up before shutting off, and it took 30 minutes for me to start my car while stuck in front of a gas pump.
I hope they find something especially since when I was warming up my car while I finished breakfast the car was making a "clicking" noise...
This dealership used car specialist is making me frustrated.
P.S. I did ask for a compression test but he kept saying he was not able to and I told him I pay for that service. I hope it gets done.
I hope they find something especially since when I was warming up my car while I finished breakfast the car was making a "clicking" noise...
This dealership used car specialist is making me frustrated.
P.S. I did ask for a compression test but he kept saying he was not able to and I told him I pay for that service. I hope it gets done.
#37
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Insist on it. Honestly, even if they refuse to pay for it under warranty, I'd whole heartedly recommend paying the $90 to $180 charge for it. If it's got good compression, you have paid a tiny amount of money to know your engine is good. If it's a dying engine, you have instant leverage on the warranty company to get them to replace it (and legally they would have to pay for the test at that point too).
Totally worth the possible cost.
Make sure you get the numbers!
Something like this:
Rotor1: 7.2, 7.1, 7.3
Rotor2: 7.5, 7.3, 7.4
260rpm
Insist that you get them!
Totally worth the possible cost.
Make sure you get the numbers!
Something like this:
Rotor1: 7.2, 7.1, 7.3
Rotor2: 7.5, 7.3, 7.4
260rpm
Insist that you get them!
This is the way to HANDEL this now.....
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