Accessing Top of Fuel Tank..
Thread Starter
wipe me down
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 825
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Accessing Top of Fuel Tank..
Okay so I have my car at a mechanic that a friend recommended. He just got my car today and he said that the fuel leak is at the top of the tank as far as he can tell. He said he is going to look for top access to the fuel tank through the wheel well, etc if possible so we don't have to remove the tank and put it back. Is this possible? Does anyone know?
He said that if the fuel tank needs to be removed, then the rear differential or part of it or something needs to be disassembled in order for the rear of the tank to drop out. Is he blowing smoke up my *** or is this true? This is becoming more frustrating then if just bumper damage had occurred.
He said that if the fuel tank needs to be removed, then the rear differential or part of it or something needs to be disassembled in order for the rear of the tank to drop out. Is he blowing smoke up my *** or is this true? This is becoming more frustrating then if just bumper damage had occurred.
If it is one of the valves or ports in the top of the tank you are going to have to drop it to get at them. AFAIK they aren't serviceable though...so the fix would be a new tank.
Most likely place for a leak would be the 2 inspection ports for the fuel pump and the pickup in the passenger side...those can be accessed from under the rear seat cushions
Most likely place for a leak would be the 2 inspection ports for the fuel pump and the pickup in the passenger side...those can be accessed from under the rear seat cushions
Thread Starter
wipe me down
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 825
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Should I tell him that? He's a nice conservative asian guy by the looks of it..he's called me twice. Which is what I want. However..he says it would cost $400 just to have the gas tank dropped and put back in. Is that really a reasonable price?? He's not going to do that until I tell him to, though..
It takes about 5 minutes to pull the rear seat bottoms and have a look under the covers ( 4 screws)
I would make sure that he looked there first.
When does the tank leak? If it is only when you fill the tank then the filler tube is likely. If it is all the time...then you might have a hole?? The ports in the top..and the pump ports aren't under fuel level except above about 1/2 tank
I would make sure that he looked there first.
When does the tank leak? If it is only when you fill the tank then the filler tube is likely. If it is all the time...then you might have a hole?? The ports in the top..and the pump ports aren't under fuel level except above about 1/2 tank
Thread Starter
wipe me down
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 825
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Haha he must be a smart guy because right after you posted that I called him and he was chuckling and he said he figured out he could access the top of the gas tank through the rear passenger seat and that the leak was the ring inside the fuel pump. He said the seal is $50 for the part and $100 to replace, and that that would fix the leak. $150 doesn't sound too unreasonable to me. He also said he'd install my front bumper for $100 if it was already painted.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 21,958
Likes: 115
From: portland oregon
you should make sure you have had the fuel tank recall 3305g stuff is done and if it hasnt then the leaking tank will probably be covered under that recall
one way to check try hitting these rpms sitting still in neutral and see what happens
PARTS INSPECTION
Check the parts in the list below for heat deformation or heat damage. If you find any deformed or damaged
parts by heat, replace the deformed or damaged parts. See Workhop manual for appropriate replacement procedures.
If during inspection, no damaged parts are found / or after replacement of any of the following parts, go
to FUEL TANK INSPECTION (Group1 Vehicles Only) or “C” AUTHORIZED MODIFICATION LABEL
INSTALLATION (Group 2 Vehicles Only):
1. Check the following parts for heat damage:
• Neutral Switch Connector / Harness Cover (for MT vehicle only).
• Rear O2 Sensor Connector / Harness Cover.
• Parking Brake Cable bellows covers.
• Plastic parking brake cable clip attaching the parking brake cables to the fuel tank metal insulator.
• Urethane pads located in bottom of cup holder (may shrink in size).
• Body grommets at the side of the rear frame, above the muffler.
• Back up light switch connector / harness cover
• Engine harness protector / cover
NOTE:
• Refer to the following figures to identify related parts.
After inspecting the parts listed above, if you find any heat deformed or heat damaged parts (even if only one
part was identified), inspect the plastic socket under the shift lever for heat deformation (6MT vehicles only). If
the plastic socket is deformed, replace the plastic socket. See Workshop manual section 05-11 MANUAL
TRANSMISSION. Poor shifting may result if the plastic seat is deformed by heat and not replaced.
Check the parts in the list below for heat deformation or heat damage. If you find any deformed or damaged
parts by heat, replace the deformed or damaged parts. See Workhop manual for appropriate replacement procedures.
If during inspection, no damaged parts are found / or after replacement of any of the following parts, go
to FUEL TANK INSPECTION (Group1 Vehicles Only) or “C” AUTHORIZED MODIFICATION LABEL
INSTALLATION (Group 2 Vehicles Only):
1. Check the following parts for heat damage:
• Neutral Switch Connector / Harness Cover (for MT vehicle only).
• Rear O2 Sensor Connector / Harness Cover.
• Parking Brake Cable bellows covers.
• Plastic parking brake cable clip attaching the parking brake cables to the fuel tank metal insulator.
• Urethane pads located in bottom of cup holder (may shrink in size).
• Body grommets at the side of the rear frame, above the muffler.
• Back up light switch connector / harness cover
• Engine harness protector / cover
NOTE:
• Refer to the following figures to identify related parts.
After inspecting the parts listed above, if you find any heat deformed or heat damaged parts (even if only one
part was identified), inspect the plastic socket under the shift lever for heat deformation (6MT vehicles only). If
the plastic socket is deformed, replace the plastic socket. See Workshop manual section 05-11 MANUAL
TRANSMISSION. Poor shifting may result if the plastic seat is deformed by heat and not replaced.
FUEL TANK INSPECTION (Group 1 Vehicles Only)
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Support the fuel tank using a transmission jack or suitable device.
3. Remove the front fuel tank strap bolts and loosen the rear fuel tank strap bolts 10 turns.
4. Lower the front of the fuel tank far enough to visually identify the horizontal fuel tank seam approximately 2”
above the edge of the lower heat shield at the hump in the fuel tank.
5. Check the area around the horizontal fuel tank seam for heat deformation or heat damage.
NOTE:
• Heat deformation / heat damage will be identified by wrinkling of the plastic fuel tank.
• If the fuel tank is deformed or damaged by heat, replace the fuel tank and the back-up light switch connector.
See Workshop manual section 01-14 FUEL TANK REMOVAL / INSTALLATION. The new fuel
tank comes with the heat insulation pad installed.
• If fuel tank is not deformed or damaged, see the following:
- Go to “FUEL TANK HEAT INSULATION PAD INSTALLATION (GROUP 1 VEHICLES ONLY)”.
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Support the fuel tank using a transmission jack or suitable device.
3. Remove the front fuel tank strap bolts and loosen the rear fuel tank strap bolts 10 turns.
4. Lower the front of the fuel tank far enough to visually identify the horizontal fuel tank seam approximately 2”
above the edge of the lower heat shield at the hump in the fuel tank.
5. Check the area around the horizontal fuel tank seam for heat deformation or heat damage.
NOTE:
• Heat deformation / heat damage will be identified by wrinkling of the plastic fuel tank.
• If the fuel tank is deformed or damaged by heat, replace the fuel tank and the back-up light switch connector.
See Workshop manual section 01-14 FUEL TANK REMOVAL / INSTALLATION. The new fuel
tank comes with the heat insulation pad installed.
• If fuel tank is not deformed or damaged, see the following:
- Go to “FUEL TANK HEAT INSULATION PAD INSTALLATION (GROUP 1 VEHICLES ONLY)”.
FUEL TANK HEAT INSULATION PAD INSTALLATION (GROUP 1 VEHICLES ONLY)
CAUTION: Use gloves when installing fuel tank heat pad insulation to avoid injury.
NOTE: Fuel tank will need to remain supported and in lowered position as outlined in “FUEL TANK INSPECTION”.
1. Position the parking brake cables out of the way by removing the bolt attaching the cable stay to the transmission
tunnel mounted above the power plant frame and directly in front of the fuel tank. Slide the cable
stay toward front of vehicle approximately 4” (100mm).
2. Center the heat insulation pad over the hump in the fuel tank metal insulator evenly between the body and
the tank.
3. Position left end of heat insulation pad (looking at front of tank) approximately 3/4” (20mm) from the center
line of the fuel tank strap.
NOTE:
• The working area to perform this procedure is limited. Make sure you double check the placement
of the heat insulation pad before installing the fuel tank and completing the repair.
4. Insert the bottom center of the heat insulation pad approx. 1/4” (5mm) between the hump in the fuel tank
and the metal insulator. Using a spatula or equivalent, tuck the heat insulation pad approx. 1/4” (5mm)
between the fuel tank and metal insulator. Do not wrinkle the pad. Note location of heat insulation pad for
next step.
5. Pull out ends of heat insulation pad from metal insulator, noting where best to place double-sided tape.
Attach double-sided tape on the both ends of the tank to attach the heat insulation pad temporarily. Tuck
heat insulation pad back in between metal insulator and fuel tank approx. 1/4” (5mm) as previously performed
in step 5. Ensure no gaps exist between the heat insulation pad and the metal insulator. Do not wrinkle
the pad. Reposition pad if necessary.
NOTE:
• Before attaching the tape, clean the surface of the tank with a cloth or equivalent.
• The purpose of the tape is to hold the heat insulation pad while installing the fuel tank into the
vehicle. The heat insulation pad will be sandwiched between the body and the fuel tank after
installation.
6. Slowly raise the fuel tank back into position and reattach the straps to hold fuel tank in place.
7. Confirm that the bottom end of the heat insulation pad is properly inserted between the fuel tank and the
metal insulator.
8. Reinstall the parking brake cable stay for the parking brake cable onto the original position.
• Tightening Torque: 18.6–25.5 Nm
CAUTION: Use gloves when installing fuel tank heat pad insulation to avoid injury.
NOTE: Fuel tank will need to remain supported and in lowered position as outlined in “FUEL TANK INSPECTION”.
1. Position the parking brake cables out of the way by removing the bolt attaching the cable stay to the transmission
tunnel mounted above the power plant frame and directly in front of the fuel tank. Slide the cable
stay toward front of vehicle approximately 4” (100mm).
2. Center the heat insulation pad over the hump in the fuel tank metal insulator evenly between the body and
the tank.
3. Position left end of heat insulation pad (looking at front of tank) approximately 3/4” (20mm) from the center
line of the fuel tank strap.
NOTE:
• The working area to perform this procedure is limited. Make sure you double check the placement
of the heat insulation pad before installing the fuel tank and completing the repair.
4. Insert the bottom center of the heat insulation pad approx. 1/4” (5mm) between the hump in the fuel tank
and the metal insulator. Using a spatula or equivalent, tuck the heat insulation pad approx. 1/4” (5mm)
between the fuel tank and metal insulator. Do not wrinkle the pad. Note location of heat insulation pad for
next step.
5. Pull out ends of heat insulation pad from metal insulator, noting where best to place double-sided tape.
Attach double-sided tape on the both ends of the tank to attach the heat insulation pad temporarily. Tuck
heat insulation pad back in between metal insulator and fuel tank approx. 1/4” (5mm) as previously performed
in step 5. Ensure no gaps exist between the heat insulation pad and the metal insulator. Do not wrinkle
the pad. Reposition pad if necessary.
NOTE:
• Before attaching the tape, clean the surface of the tank with a cloth or equivalent.
• The purpose of the tape is to hold the heat insulation pad while installing the fuel tank into the
vehicle. The heat insulation pad will be sandwiched between the body and the fuel tank after
installation.
6. Slowly raise the fuel tank back into position and reattach the straps to hold fuel tank in place.
7. Confirm that the bottom end of the heat insulation pad is properly inserted between the fuel tank and the
metal insulator.
8. Reinstall the parking brake cable stay for the parking brake cable onto the original position.
• Tightening Torque: 18.6–25.5 Nm
The revised PCM calibrations will change throttle control in order to prevent thermal damage due to exhaust
overheating while the vehicle is stopped, and engine RPM is high for an extended period of time. There are two
PCM logic modes that have been modified to prevent extended high engine RPM while the vehicle is stopped.
ELECTRONIC THROTTLE FAILSAFE MODE
If the PCM detects a problem with the electronic throttle control system, the PCM failsafe mode will fix the
engine RPM to 2700. This is to allow limited driving even when throttle control does not exist.
- FAILSAFE MODE PRIOR TO PCM PROGRAMMING
PCM fixes engine RPM at 2700 until ignition is switched off. The PCM will remain in failsafe mode until
the malfunction has been repaired.
- FAILSAFE MODE AFTER PCM PROGRAMMING
When the PCM is in failsafe mode, the PCM will default to 2700 RPM to allow the vehicle to be driven if
there is an electronic throttle error. However, the PCM will cut the failsafe mode and RPM will default to
1100 when the following conditions have been met for more than 5 minutes:
• Engine temperature more than 140°F.
• Transmission in neutral or park.
• Vehicle speed is less than 2 MPH.
FREE REV MODE
When the engine RPM is held at high levels and the vehicle is stopped, the PCM will reduce the engine RPM to
prevent thermal damage.
- FREE REV MODE PRIOR TO PCM PROGRAMMING
RPM is limited to 2500 to prevent overheating when the conditions below are met for more than 5 seconds.
• Shift lever is in N position and/or the clutch pedal is stepped on (AT vehicle: the shift lever is in P or N
position)
- Temperature of coolant is 221°F or more.
- Engine RPM is 5,000 or more.
• When the engine RPM is 1100 or less, and/or the temperature of coolant becomes 212°F or less, PCM
returns to the normal control mode.
- FREE REV MODE AFTER PCM PROGRAMMING
The PCM will reduce RPM to 900 if the throttle is held above certain RPM levels (free-reving) for predetermined
time periods under the following conditions:
• Engine temperature more than 140°F.
• Transmission in neutral or park.
• Vehicle speed is less than 3 MPH.
TIME / RPM HELD FOR PCM TO DEFAULT TO IDLE
Engine RPM Time
+8500 + 10 Seconds
3000-8500 + 2 Minutes
1300-3000 + 5 Minutes
EXAMPLE:
• Engine running at operating temp, trans in "N" & stopped. Hold RPM at 4000, after 2 minutes have
elapsed at this RPM, the engine will return to idle regardless of throttle input. Throttle will return
after accelerator pedal is fully released, or ignition is shut off.
overheating while the vehicle is stopped, and engine RPM is high for an extended period of time. There are two
PCM logic modes that have been modified to prevent extended high engine RPM while the vehicle is stopped.
ELECTRONIC THROTTLE FAILSAFE MODE
If the PCM detects a problem with the electronic throttle control system, the PCM failsafe mode will fix the
engine RPM to 2700. This is to allow limited driving even when throttle control does not exist.
- FAILSAFE MODE PRIOR TO PCM PROGRAMMING
PCM fixes engine RPM at 2700 until ignition is switched off. The PCM will remain in failsafe mode until
the malfunction has been repaired.
- FAILSAFE MODE AFTER PCM PROGRAMMING
When the PCM is in failsafe mode, the PCM will default to 2700 RPM to allow the vehicle to be driven if
there is an electronic throttle error. However, the PCM will cut the failsafe mode and RPM will default to
1100 when the following conditions have been met for more than 5 minutes:
• Engine temperature more than 140°F.
• Transmission in neutral or park.
• Vehicle speed is less than 2 MPH.
FREE REV MODE
When the engine RPM is held at high levels and the vehicle is stopped, the PCM will reduce the engine RPM to
prevent thermal damage.
- FREE REV MODE PRIOR TO PCM PROGRAMMING
RPM is limited to 2500 to prevent overheating when the conditions below are met for more than 5 seconds.
• Shift lever is in N position and/or the clutch pedal is stepped on (AT vehicle: the shift lever is in P or N
position)
- Temperature of coolant is 221°F or more.
- Engine RPM is 5,000 or more.
• When the engine RPM is 1100 or less, and/or the temperature of coolant becomes 212°F or less, PCM
returns to the normal control mode.
- FREE REV MODE AFTER PCM PROGRAMMING
The PCM will reduce RPM to 900 if the throttle is held above certain RPM levels (free-reving) for predetermined
time periods under the following conditions:
• Engine temperature more than 140°F.
• Transmission in neutral or park.
• Vehicle speed is less than 3 MPH.
TIME / RPM HELD FOR PCM TO DEFAULT TO IDLE
Engine RPM Time
+8500 + 10 Seconds
3000-8500 + 2 Minutes
1300-3000 + 5 Minutes
EXAMPLE:
• Engine running at operating temp, trans in "N" & stopped. Hold RPM at 4000, after 2 minutes have
elapsed at this RPM, the engine will return to idle regardless of throttle input. Throttle will return
after accelerator pedal is fully released, or ignition is shut off.
Thread Starter
wipe me down
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 825
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs, CO
so you're saying I shoulda taken it to my mazda dealership? I tried to avoid them since it was caused by an accident and I figured they'd rape me with the price.
Should I have them take a look at it for that recall in the future? I have to take it to them for the rear tail light condensation and AC.heat **** anyways =P
Should I have them take a look at it for that recall in the future? I have to take it to them for the rear tail light condensation and AC.heat **** anyways =P
so you're saying I shoulda taken it to my mazda dealership? I tried to avoid them since it was caused by an accident and I figured they'd rape me with the price. Should I have them take a look at it for that recall in the future? I have to take it to them for the rear tail light condensation and AC.heat **** anyways =P
The new pump retainer ring is about 45 bucks, takes about 30 minutes to remove seats, remove ring, inspect pump seal, replace ring, replace seat (seats pop in/out. It's the retainer ring that takes all the time). Buck and a half part/labor isn't unfair. The only thing I'd want to know is why it started leaking in the first place, because the chief cause is someone fragging the fuel retainer ring trying to remove it without a proper tool, and a hammer and screwdriver are not proper tools. Even with a three or four point ring tool, it's an excercise in patience get get the ring off without breaking it. Any more questions, get in touch with Charles Hill at Black Halo Racing.
Last edited by zenrx8; Dec 18, 2010 at 06:59 AM.
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,255
Likes: 8
From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
At least you searched. Now if you start looking at the dates, from those searches, your golden.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JimmyBlack
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades
273
Feb 10, 2020 10:23 PM
05rx8mazda
RX-8 Parts For Sale/Wanted
18
Nov 28, 2015 09:42 AM
Touge
Canada Forum
0
Sep 1, 2015 10:47 PM
