100,000 miles!
05-31-2012, 07:20 PM
#51
Fred N.
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I am in Dallas, TX with my car being serviced at Town East Mazda in Richardson. It's a used car so who knows what I have. Thought about Freeman Mazda but my wife told me the service dept was better at Town East.
I can fill it at the pump and then roughly 3 - 4 gallons of computeted fuel burn, it looks low. Burning another 2 gallons..., I'm on fumes accorrdinging to the gas guage. Sounds like a cell not reporting. Do not want to test it out.
-Fred
I can fill it at the pump and then roughly 3 - 4 gallons of computeted fuel burn, it looks low. Burning another 2 gallons..., I'm on fumes accorrdinging to the gas guage. Sounds like a cell not reporting. Do not want to test it out.
-Fred
05-31-2012, 07:24 PM
#53
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Is your only issue the gas gauge? You started with asking about engine replacement and rebuild?
Have you considered that your gas gauge might just be out of calibration? Like the needle itself is shifted ~45 degrees counter clockwise. If the fuel gauge is actually moving as you burn fuel, then it's probably not the sender. 3-4 + 2 is 5-6. A normal RX-8 will have the light come on with a fill up of about 13 gallons. So if you are moving half the gauge in ~6 gallons, that's about right for the range of motion, just pointing in the wrong quadrant.
If your gauge actually is pointing wrong, it suggests a prior owner or dealer was back there messing with something, which worries me. We have had some odometer fraud and CEL blocking pop up on used RX-8s in recent history.
Have you considered that your gas gauge might just be out of calibration? Like the needle itself is shifted ~45 degrees counter clockwise. If the fuel gauge is actually moving as you burn fuel, then it's probably not the sender. 3-4 + 2 is 5-6. A normal RX-8 will have the light come on with a fill up of about 13 gallons. So if you are moving half the gauge in ~6 gallons, that's about right for the range of motion, just pointing in the wrong quadrant.
If your gauge actually is pointing wrong, it suggests a prior owner or dealer was back there messing with something, which worries me. We have had some odometer fraud and CEL blocking pop up on used RX-8s in recent history.
05-31-2012, 07:51 PM
#54
Fred N.
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Old RX-8
Thanks
Last night, I hit 100,000 miles. Bought this car in Aug 2005, sunlight silver, she still looks beautiful to this day.
I will keep this brief:
-I love this car
-I've done the oil changes myself, 5w-20 castrol gtx
-My drive is mostly hwy so I average 22-23 mpg
-I am no professional, I do not track nor care to. Even after 5.5 years of having her, I am still an amateur at this.
-The brakes are just NOW squealing so I am shopping around for good prices, but it seems everyone is around $400 for the whole job.
-I did a tranny flush at 70k, got the MSP-16 recall done. (Correct me if I have the name wrong)
-I redline her at least once every time I drive her
-I have the SP2 exhaust and AEM CAI. No other modifications really.
-My left lower speaker went out at about 65k? I just replaced it with another from a local audio shop. The sound is not the same compared to the Bose, but I could care less for audio in this car.
-Right side mirror was broken by someone leaning on it, replaced at about 90k.
-I've had one accident where guy T-boned me in my rear right tire side, I thought she was gone forever, but LOOK AT ME NOW
-I am no car mechanic, not a technical person, I just know how to do basic maintenance.
Other than that, here's to another 100k miles!
I will keep this brief:
-I love this car
-I've done the oil changes myself, 5w-20 castrol gtx
-My drive is mostly hwy so I average 22-23 mpg
-I am no professional, I do not track nor care to. Even after 5.5 years of having her, I am still an amateur at this.
-The brakes are just NOW squealing so I am shopping around for good prices, but it seems everyone is around $400 for the whole job.
-I did a tranny flush at 70k, got the MSP-16 recall done. (Correct me if I have the name wrong)
-I redline her at least once every time I drive her
-I have the SP2 exhaust and AEM CAI. No other modifications really.
-My left lower speaker went out at about 65k? I just replaced it with another from a local audio shop. The sound is not the same compared to the Bose, but I could care less for audio in this car.
-Right side mirror was broken by someone leaning on it, replaced at about 90k.
-I've had one accident where guy T-boned me in my rear right tire side, I thought she was gone forever, but LOOK AT ME NOW
-I am no car mechanic, not a technical person, I just know how to do basic maintenance.
Other than that, here's to another 100k miles!
05-31-2012, 09:14 PM
#56
05 whitewater rx8
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well in the eyes of my friends who called me an idiot for buying an rx8 and it would blow up at 60k i am a success story. I just clocked over 60k and I bought it at 45k. only have done regular oil changes and upgraded the brakes to drilled and slotted rotors with dust an noise free ceramic pads. I think my old pads and rotors were pretty good still, just ugly.
Last edited by SamPappas; 05-31-2012 at 09:19 PM.
05-31-2012, 10:02 PM
#58
05 whitewater rx8
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you don't get a "new" engine, you get a reman, which could very well be worse off than your current engine. if I was at 99k with good compression I would be happy.
06-01-2012, 04:14 PM
#60
Fred N.
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Outside of the dreaded flooded engine that I keep reading about, is there any thing different about an RX-8 that I should be concerned with? This will be my daughters first car soon so I want to make as easy on her as possible. Flush brake and cooling fluids, etc.
06-01-2012, 05:22 PM
#61
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Perhaps you should check out the common myths debunked and truths about our car here: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/
I wrote it up, so re-typing it here seems like largely a waste of time, because you would still have to read it here as read it there.
06-10-2012, 08:54 PM
#62
THE BITCH IS DEAD
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Wow
Just thought I'd chime in
So I filled up Wednesday night, 13.3 gallons, as always. Today the light came on at 315 miles!
That is about 23 mpg!
Now, my commute is 90% hwy and I cruise at 65, but still glad to be getting better than the "revised" epa estimates of 16/22.
So I filled up Wednesday night, 13.3 gallons, as always. Today the light came on at 315 miles!
That is about 23 mpg!
Now, my commute is 90% hwy and I cruise at 65, but still glad to be getting better than the "revised" epa estimates of 16/22.
06-10-2012, 09:56 PM
#63
anyway, if i had good compression and never had any issues then i wouldnt either.
to my knowledge... alot of the remans sucked in 04 and 05 and then quality control stepped in and got significantly better.
correct me if im wrong, but dont you get any kind of warranty on that reman thats put in? if it goes out in 5k miles then clearly you shouldnt pay for a new engine, unless its another dick move by mazda.
06-12-2012, 07:37 PM
#64
Fred N.
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Getting ready for a 60,000 mile service on our used RX-8 which according to paperwork, appears to have been a lease car. Plan to include a drivers side request switch and door handle since the switch is gone/shot and the handle mechanism is worn out and has a lot of play in it.
Outside of a general inspection of the car at the Mazda service center and oil/filter change, is there anything else that can help with keeping the car in service for a long time? Transmission, flush the anti-freeze/coolant and brake fluids are things that I done to extend the life of older cars?
I would like at least 120,000 miles. The cars body is in great shape
Outside of a general inspection of the car at the Mazda service center and oil/filter change, is there anything else that can help with keeping the car in service for a long time? Transmission, flush the anti-freeze/coolant and brake fluids are things that I done to extend the life of older cars?
I would like at least 120,000 miles. The cars body is in great shape
06-12-2012, 07:41 PM
#65
05 whitewater rx8
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new to me,
anyway, if i had good compression and never had any issues then i wouldnt either.
to my knowledge... alot of the remans sucked in 04 and 05 and then quality control stepped in and got significantly better.
correct me if im wrong, but dont you get any kind of warranty on that reman thats put in? if it goes out in 5k miles then clearly you shouldnt pay for a new engine, unless its another dick move by mazda.
anyway, if i had good compression and never had any issues then i wouldnt either.
to my knowledge... alot of the remans sucked in 04 and 05 and then quality control stepped in and got significantly better.
correct me if im wrong, but dont you get any kind of warranty on that reman thats put in? if it goes out in 5k miles then clearly you shouldnt pay for a new engine, unless its another dick move by mazda.
06-13-2012, 05:38 AM
#67
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Anyone with a Mazda service receipt has the warranty printed on the back. When Mazda does a parts replacement from their inventory on your car, there is a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty on the parts and labor. So if your engine was replaced BEFORE the 7yr 88,000 mile mark on your Odometer, then this warranty covering the engine completely overlaps with the core warranty. If your engine was replaced AFTER 7yrs 88,000 miles but BEFORE 8yrs 100,000 miles, then the 1yr 12,000 mile warranty will extend the overall warranty a bit beyond the core warranty.
For example my engine was replaced in March at 95,935, and about 5.5 years into the warranty. I crossed 100,000 miles a week or so ago, so the core warranty is out. However, I still have that service warranty until March 2013 (1 year after service) or 107,935 miles.
For example my engine was replaced in March at 95,935, and about 5.5 years into the warranty. I crossed 100,000 miles a week or so ago, so the core warranty is out. However, I still have that service warranty until March 2013 (1 year after service) or 107,935 miles.
06-25-2012, 07:12 PM
#68
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HEAT is murder
I am at about 135,xxx miles and today the temperatures were 100+ here in Houston for a majority of the day. I was busy running errands all day and I noticed the car was just sluggish after a lot of driving. I'm assuming it was the heat because the sluggishness began in the afternoon. I was making a lot of short trips which I know this car hates. That is not a fact, just my personal experience. It died on me once just sitting at the stoplight. I had to give her more gas than normal or she would just choke up or barely move. I'm guessing she just needs to cool down over night and should be fine by morning. This heat is really getting bad down here, I saw at least 4 cars stripped on the side with their hoods popped smoke just spewing out.
06-26-2012, 07:11 PM
#69
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So the car was somewhat better this morning, she didn't die out at the stoplights, idle is still rough. Came home from work today and unplugged the battery, connected it back and the problem still persists, however, now it is dying as soon as I turn it off or if I'm in neutral at a standstill. I have to gas it to keep her running.
Once I get her on the freeway and cruising @ 65 mph, I'm good. But this idle is definitely an issue.
Once I get her on the freeway and cruising @ 65 mph, I'm good. But this idle is definitely an issue.
06-26-2012, 07:26 PM
#70
Well, the ECU relearns the fuel trim once you disconnect the battery. You need to run the car at least three or four cycles. A cycle consiste of starting the engine while it's cold, let it idle until the temperature reads normal, turn the engine off and wait until the engine cools again before restarting it. That constitutes as one cycle. If you restart the engine while it's warm, the idle will drop. It may take you about 24 hours to do this. You just need to be patient. You will know when ECU have completed the "relearn" when the idle initally start at 1750 or above and hear the Air Pump start at initial start when the engine is cold.
06-28-2012, 07:29 PM
#71
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Well, the ECU relearns the fuel trim once you disconnect the battery. You need to run the car at least three or four cycles. A cycle consiste of starting the engine while it's cold, let it idle until the temperature reads normal, turn the engine off and wait until the engine cools again before restarting it. That constitutes as one cycle. If you restart the engine while it's warm, the idle will drop. It may take you about 24 hours to do this. You just need to be patient. You will know when ECU have completed the "relearn" when the idle initally start at 1750 or above and hear the Air Pump start at initial start when the engine is cold.
So I've disconnected and run it through a few cycles, but still same symptoms:
-loss of power
-rough idle
-engine dying at stops
Any other suggestions?
06-28-2012, 08:46 PM
#73
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Car mileage is at 135,100 miles. I had the plugs, wires and coils changed @ 129,537 miles. And there is a CEL as of now. I'm thinking overheating as well, but unsure
Last edited by skhmund; 06-28-2012 at 09:09 PM.
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