100,000 mile club
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Joined: Mar 2012
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I just bought my 04 8 3 weeks ago its got 99500 mi. It seems to not wanna start when its warm sometimes..if I push the gas when starting its fine.anyone got any advice for me? Also what's the deal with the 100000 mile warranty check and how do I get it done before I exceed my miles???? Thanks for the help
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 603
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From: Long Beach, CA
About to hit 123k on my original motor, original tranny, and original clutch in my 04 6spd!
Driven every single day for the past 4 years when I bought her second hand with 63k on the clock
Has survived 3 minnesota winters and counting
Coolant changed at 70k
Tranny and diff fluid changed at 80k with stock fluid, going to try that synchromesh stuff when i change again at 130k, 3rd and 4th are grinding a bit
Currently cleanin the intake valves and they are getting better, not exactly sure which one is sticking so im just cleanin and revin lol
Had to replace right side engine mount not long ago
Rotor tattoo on my left forearm to celebrate the 100k mark
On my second set of coils last replaced at 100k, going to replace at 125k or 130k and remount to front of engine bay
Replace the plugs every 5-10k
Been using valvoline 5w-20 conventional changed every 3k (thinking of going to 10w-30 next change)
Will start premixing asap
The motor has outlasted my clutch and ill have to replace it asap lol
Never revved it over 3k before operating temp is reached
Think i got all of what ive been doing, anyone got any suggestions if im missing something? Car has been great, i love it to death and she seems to just be getting better with age like a fine wine check out my youtube video of hitting the 100k mark youtube.com/tableoftisch cuz im a nerd lol
Driven every single day for the past 4 years when I bought her second hand with 63k on the clock
Has survived 3 minnesota winters and counting
Coolant changed at 70k
Tranny and diff fluid changed at 80k with stock fluid, going to try that synchromesh stuff when i change again at 130k, 3rd and 4th are grinding a bit
Currently cleanin the intake valves and they are getting better, not exactly sure which one is sticking so im just cleanin and revin lol
Had to replace right side engine mount not long ago
Rotor tattoo on my left forearm to celebrate the 100k mark
On my second set of coils last replaced at 100k, going to replace at 125k or 130k and remount to front of engine bay
Replace the plugs every 5-10k
Been using valvoline 5w-20 conventional changed every 3k (thinking of going to 10w-30 next change)
Will start premixing asap
The motor has outlasted my clutch and ill have to replace it asap lol
Never revved it over 3k before operating temp is reached
Think i got all of what ive been doing, anyone got any suggestions if im missing something? Car has been great, i love it to death and she seems to just be getting better with age like a fine wine
check out my youtube video of hitting the 100k mark youtube.com/tableoftisch cuz im a nerd lol-What method are you using to clean the intake valves? Are you getting a code which indicates one is not opening or closing?
-I can see cleaning the spark plugs at regular intervals, but why are you replacing them every 5-10K miles? I replaced mine at 30K, and while they could have used some cleaning, the gaps were still within spec and they could have gone another 10-20K. Replacing iridium plugs every 5,000 miles seems like a huge waste of money, and I've never seen anyone recommend such a thing...
Last edited by PeteInLongBeach; Mar 20, 2012 at 11:49 AM.
I just bought my 04 8 3 weeks ago its got 99500 mi. It seems to not wanna start when its warm sometimes..if I push the gas when starting its fine.anyone got any advice for me? Also what's the deal with the 100000 mile warranty check and how do I get it done before I exceed my miles???? Thanks for the help
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4
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The plug wires are fairly new. I planned on plugs n fuel sys clean I'm not sure if the starter has been replaced any idea how to check? I may just change the coils to be safe are they a dealer only part? The dealer that sold me the car didn't have much on the history
Addendum - Before you ask more questions, read these links:
New and Potential Owners, Start Here
Congratulations, You Got an 8
Last edited by Grace_Excel; Mar 21, 2012 at 04:16 AM. Reason: Added Links
Will drift for oil.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 73
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From: all over pennsylvania
A couple of questions:
-What method are you using to clean the intake valves? Are you getting a code which indicates one is not opening or closing?
-I can see cleaning the spark plugs at regular intervals, but why are you replacing them every 5-10K miles? I replaced mine at 30K, and while they could have used some cleaning, the gaps were still within spec and they could have gone another 10-20K. Replacing iridium plugs every 5,000 miles seems like a huge waste of money, and I've never seen anyone recommend such a thing...
-What method are you using to clean the intake valves? Are you getting a code which indicates one is not opening or closing?
-I can see cleaning the spark plugs at regular intervals, but why are you replacing them every 5-10K miles? I replaced mine at 30K, and while they could have used some cleaning, the gaps were still within spec and they could have gone another 10-20K. Replacing iridium plugs every 5,000 miles seems like a huge waste of money, and I've never seen anyone recommend such a thing...
I know its overkill to change plugs that often lol its an OCD thing of mine i guess :P
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
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From: Asheville NC
Im just over 137k on my 06 shinka, original engine, only replaced coils @ 93k and plugs and wires every 10-15k and oil (conventional 5w-20) every 3k. I've had the car since 72k, previous owner only changed plugs wires and oil.
I've seen a few members list their coils lasting 50,000 and some changed after 75,000 miles. I had my ignition coils (well as the wires) in the car for six years and at 141,000 miles before changing it; plugs were replaced at least every 30,000 miles, until recently, now every 10-15,000 miles. Regular oil changest at 3-4,000 miles.
I just joined the 100K mile club yesterday!! WOOT! Mine is a 2004 tiGrey and I bought the car used at 16K miles. Since I bought the car, I have premixed my gas with full synthetic BelRay Si-7 two stroke. That is really the only special thing I do to my car. I do typical 3-4K mile oil changes. For the first 30K miles, I used 5-20, then switched to 5-30. No very large issues overall (knock on wood). I recently got my water pumped replaced, got a new radiator as there was a small lead and the expanded coolant reservoir.. The only real annoying thing is my tail lights that has the fish bowl problem. Need to get some good silicone adhesive. I took my car in for a compression test, and everything read normal!
well, here is a pic below.
well, here is a pic below.
Lincoln, NE
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
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From: Kansas City, MO
I have 151,000 miles on mine and have never changed the coils or plugs or wires and it runs good. It is starting to have longer than normal starts ESP when warm and when I it reaches operating temp after first starting it still feels brand new but then once it's warmed up the car has a surge at 4500 rpm and then doesn't seem to have any more power. It's weird cause it's fine when first driving but after driving awhile it starts up with that problem. The only other thing too is that when I have my ac on and come to a stop and idle my car has died before and also when I don't have the ac on I have noticed the idle fluctuates some then will settle to normal.. Anyways other than that stuff I just change the oil and fluids and it's been a great car. Winter here in the Midwest sucks but that's the price you pay huh? Glad I could share and I liked reading your posts and hearing about your cars as well.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 464
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From: Tennessee
I have 151,000 miles on mine and have never changed the coils or plugs or wires and it runs good. It is starting to have longer than normal starts ESP when warm and when I it reaches operating temp after first starting it still feels brand new but then once it's warmed up the car has a surge at 4500 rpm and then doesn't seem to have any more power. It's weird cause it's fine when first driving but after driving awhile it starts up with that problem. The only other thing too is that when I have my ac on and come to a stop and idle my car has died before and also when I don't have the ac on I have noticed the idle fluctuates some then will settle to normal.. Anyways other than that stuff I just change the oil and fluids and it's been a great car. Winter here in the Midwest sucks but that's the price you pay huh? Glad I could share and I liked reading your posts and hearing about your cars as well.
Are you still in your original factory engine? Wow... That's pretty much up there rx8t20046spd! Like musclecarconvrt or anyone here with the right knowledge will mention, a brand new set of coils, plug wires, and spark plugs should be in order. I'm surprised you haven't noticed a blinking CEL which usually mean a misfire. Redline the heck out of it and you'll see what it is. In addition, try to clean your ESS and MAF sensors; the ESS reset should be performed as well after you do all these changes.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; Jun 28, 2012 at 10:46 AM.
Lincoln, NE
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Ok that is a question for you then. I saw a eBay package that consisted of plugs wires coils all NGK I believe for 259.00 Is that a good deal or can you recommend something better? I have read bhr is a good brand for coils. But what about plugs and wires? Thanks
Lincoln, NE
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Are you still in your original factory engine? Wow... That's pretty much up there rx8t20046spd! Like musclecarconvrt or anyone here with the right knowledge will mention, a brand new set of coils, plug wires, and spark plugs should be in order. I'm surprised you haven't noticed a blinking CEL which usually mean a misfire. Redline the heck out of it and you'll see what it is. In addition, try to clean your ESS and MAF sensors; the ESS reset should be performed as well after you do all these changes.
Yes, the ESS reset is performed by doing the brake stomp. If you provide your VIN to MAZDA, they would be able to give you lists of any updates performed. The reflash should have been updated every time the car was serviced. But since was is still in warranty? If not, you may have to pay for that, unless you can convince them to do it free of charge; msp16 is the latest, I believe.
Lincoln, NE
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17
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From: Kansas City, MO
Ok thanks for the tip I'll have to call them. And to the person that has 166,666 miles that's awesome! I truly believe with care these engines are bullet proof and can last a lot more miles.
Also I see you tire pressure light is on too. I have been driving with mine on for years. I'm thinking that either some idiot at the shop fucked one if not all of them up on a tire swap. Or they are poorly designed and not holding up to the conditions such as hot/cold/condensation. Etc.... And to buy new ones and replace?...... No thanks I know how to use a tire pressure gauge once a week ....lol
Would someone be able to answer my question from a recent post on this thread about coils wires and plugs? Thanks so much.
Also I see you tire pressure light is on too. I have been driving with mine on for years. I'm thinking that either some idiot at the shop fucked one if not all of them up on a tire swap. Or they are poorly designed and not holding up to the conditions such as hot/cold/condensation. Etc.... And to buy new ones and replace?...... No thanks I know how to use a tire pressure gauge once a week ....lol
Would someone be able to answer my question from a recent post on this thread about coils wires and plugs? Thanks so much.
Last edited by rx8t20046sp; Jul 9, 2012 at 09:28 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,319
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From: NYC
Also I see you tire pressure light is on too. I have been driving with mine on for years. I'm thinking that either some idiot at the shop fucked one if not all of them up on a tire swap. Or they are poorly designed and not holding up to the conditions such as hot/cold/condensation. Etc.... And to buy new ones and replace?...... No thanks I know how to use a tire pressure gauge once a week ....lol
So now I think it's a worthwhile feature; you might want to get them working. They're entirely reliable.
My '05 is only at 64,700 miles, but I swear that it's like a brand new car. No rattles, nothing broken, no rust (even after salt laden roads in winter here), clutch feels brand new, not a single electrical or electronic problem of any kind, pulls as strong from 1st through 6th as it did from the day I drove it off the lot.
This car has been tied with my 1994 Civic EX manual as the most trouble free car I've ever owned. When I peruse these forums, if I didn't know any better, I'd think I was the exception.
I can't find a replacement for it after test driving over a dozen cars, because there's nothing else out there that has as good a balance for me (a few cars that cost twice what I paid new for my RX-8 literally sucked), so I gave up trying, and am going to keep this car for the looooong stretch.