100,000 mile club
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 464
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From: Tennessee
100,000 mile club
Yesterday my odometer gained a 6th digit and I'm still here to tell the tale. 100,000 miles and still zooming. I know I'm not the first and 5 years into first deliveries I'm sure there are many more out there.
Sound off 100k milers! Lets hear how things are going for your cars. We could give our basic stats and let others know how they can keep their Renesis spinning longer. Many many thanks to Expo1 and Mazmart for how much their thread helped us all !
2004 MT Titanium Gray base model. Currently stock. Same stock engine, Same stock transmission. Same stock every major thing.
Bought and delivered in Feb 2004.
First time on the track (autocross) Summer 2004
On the dyno in the summers of 2004, 2005, and 2006
First and only ECU mod was the Canzoomer unit. Left it on until this year.
Have run catless the last two summers to keep the heat down, to keep some miles off the stock cat, and to keep the neighbors awake.
Switched to 10w40 (Havoline deposit shield) oil in February 08 at approximately 85k miles.
Began premixing 2-3 ounces of Idemitsu per fill up (13 gallons) in August 2007.
Began using Techron cleaner fall 2006 to stave off carbon death and intake failure.
Swore off cheap no-name gas in 2006 shortly after averting disaster by using copious amounts of Techron and shifting on the buzzer.
Problems overcome:
Third intake valve began to stick summer 2006. I really thought it was the end. Lots of cleaner and extended high revs cleared it out after about 3 tanks.
Trans developed 2nd and 4th gear grinds around 50k miles. Was worried it was going south. BG Synchroshift worked. No grinds now at 100k.
Summer 2007, water in rear tail light. Drilled a tiny drain hole out of sight. Problem solved.
Summer 2007, began bucking and stalling in high heat (90 degree plus) and dying at red lights in 100+. Solution: premix, self made heat sink from simple sheet aluminum for coils, rear hood propped up about a 1/4 inch, rear hood weather strip removed, un-plumbed the heater hose to the throttle body, and removed the cat. It worked! Summer only mod, I return it to stock for Fall-Winter-Spring.
Spring 2008... car died
After much fear, anxiety and 5 minutes with a timing light I found the problem. #1 ignition coil was toast. Replaced at 85k. Still using the other 3 original 100k mile coils! Will probably replace in the coming weeks for kicks and giggles.
Summer 2008, Headlights beginning to yellow. Used off-the-shelf rubbing compound to bring it back to clear.
Normal maintenance:
Oil changed (Havoline deposit shield) about every 4-5k miles. 5w20 first 85k miles. 10w40 last 15k miles.
Trans fluid changed 18k, 53k, 63k, 72k switched to BG Synchroshift II (much much smoother)
Rear diff fluid changed at 63k.
Coolant changed at 53k.
Replaced front brake rotors and pads at 69k miles with DBA slotted rotors and Hawk pads.
K&N air filter cleaned twice a year.
Tires: 3 sets of Kumho 245/40, currently on Pirelli PZero Nero's... Love the Pirellis!
Headlights replaced twice. GE Silverstars do not last!
Things learned:
We've got a great car! The Renesis is a hardy little engine, but you have to listen for subtle changes in sound and power, investigate and act before it's too late. There are some good dealers out there, but most will not anticipate problems for you and by the time something is really wrong, it's too late. Take charge of your own car and take care of it on your own. It will thank you for miles to come.
Sound off 100k milers! Lets hear how things are going for your cars. We could give our basic stats and let others know how they can keep their Renesis spinning longer. Many many thanks to Expo1 and Mazmart for how much their thread helped us all !
2004 MT Titanium Gray base model. Currently stock. Same stock engine, Same stock transmission. Same stock every major thing.
Bought and delivered in Feb 2004.
First time on the track (autocross) Summer 2004
On the dyno in the summers of 2004, 2005, and 2006
First and only ECU mod was the Canzoomer unit. Left it on until this year.
Have run catless the last two summers to keep the heat down, to keep some miles off the stock cat, and to keep the neighbors awake.
Switched to 10w40 (Havoline deposit shield) oil in February 08 at approximately 85k miles.
Began premixing 2-3 ounces of Idemitsu per fill up (13 gallons) in August 2007.
Began using Techron cleaner fall 2006 to stave off carbon death and intake failure.
Swore off cheap no-name gas in 2006 shortly after averting disaster by using copious amounts of Techron and shifting on the buzzer.
Problems overcome:
Third intake valve began to stick summer 2006. I really thought it was the end. Lots of cleaner and extended high revs cleared it out after about 3 tanks.
Trans developed 2nd and 4th gear grinds around 50k miles. Was worried it was going south. BG Synchroshift worked. No grinds now at 100k.
Summer 2007, water in rear tail light. Drilled a tiny drain hole out of sight. Problem solved.
Summer 2007, began bucking and stalling in high heat (90 degree plus) and dying at red lights in 100+. Solution: premix, self made heat sink from simple sheet aluminum for coils, rear hood propped up about a 1/4 inch, rear hood weather strip removed, un-plumbed the heater hose to the throttle body, and removed the cat. It worked! Summer only mod, I return it to stock for Fall-Winter-Spring.
Spring 2008... car died
After much fear, anxiety and 5 minutes with a timing light I found the problem. #1 ignition coil was toast. Replaced at 85k. Still using the other 3 original 100k mile coils! Will probably replace in the coming weeks for kicks and giggles.Summer 2008, Headlights beginning to yellow. Used off-the-shelf rubbing compound to bring it back to clear.
Normal maintenance:
Oil changed (Havoline deposit shield) about every 4-5k miles. 5w20 first 85k miles. 10w40 last 15k miles.
Trans fluid changed 18k, 53k, 63k, 72k switched to BG Synchroshift II (much much smoother)
Rear diff fluid changed at 63k.
Coolant changed at 53k.
Replaced front brake rotors and pads at 69k miles with DBA slotted rotors and Hawk pads.
K&N air filter cleaned twice a year.
Tires: 3 sets of Kumho 245/40, currently on Pirelli PZero Nero's... Love the Pirellis!
Headlights replaced twice. GE Silverstars do not last!
Things learned:
We've got a great car! The Renesis is a hardy little engine, but you have to listen for subtle changes in sound and power, investigate and act before it's too late. There are some good dealers out there, but most will not anticipate problems for you and by the time something is really wrong, it's too late. Take charge of your own car and take care of it on your own. It will thank you for miles to come.
Last edited by musclecarconvrt; Oct 16, 2008 at 10:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 464
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From: Tennessee
He's as bad as Can
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,309
Likes: 3
From: Manchester, NJ
I am going to hit 125,000 miles this week. since I had the Mazmart Rebuilt installed back around 112,000 there have been no major issues. I still have the original CAT and 6-speed. Other than the elective engine rebuild these are the non maintenance items I have dealt with since 100,000.
Had to replace the rear O2 Sensor @ 119,500
A/C needed a recharge @ 120,045
Broke a Ft sway bar bracket @ 121,000 (bracket had 80,000 on it).
Had to replace the rear O2 Sensor @ 119,500
A/C needed a recharge @ 120,045
Broke a Ft sway bar bracket @ 121,000 (bracket had 80,000 on it).
Registered
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 7
From: Around
first: congrats on the 100k miles!
but do you realize that this is a high pressure area and air will force itself INTO the engine bay and compete for space and flow with the air coming from the front??
you should reinstall the rear seal and lower the hood to stock position!
rear hood propped up about a 1/4 inch, rear hood weather strip removed
you should reinstall the rear seal and lower the hood to stock position!
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Yep. I do realize that. It will even suck in stray leaves when your moving. The RX8 gets enough airflow at speed. It's the only time the side vents actually work. Removing the rear weather stripping and propping the hood up a little only works when you are stuck in traffic... and I was stuck in traffic almost every day last August in 100+ heat when I really needed it. Hence, the further explaination in my original post that mine is a summer only mod.
Epic post.
Yesterday my odometer gained a 6th digit and I'm still here to tell the tale. 100,000 miles and still zooming. I know I'm not the first and 5 years into first deliveries I'm sure there are many more out there.
Sound off 100k milers! Lets hear how things are going for your cars. We could give our basic stats and let others know how they can keep their Renesis spinning longer. Many many thanks to Expo1 and Mazmart for how much their thread helped us all !
2004 MT Titanium Gray base model. Currently stock. Same stock engine, Same stock transmission. Same stock every major thing.
Bought and delivered in Feb 2004.
First time on the track (autocross) Summer 2004
On the dyno in the summers of 2004, 2005, and 2006
First and only ECU mod was the Canzoomer unit. Left it on until this year.
Have run catless the last two summers to keep the heat down, to keep some miles off the stock cat, and to keep the neighbors awake.
Switched to 10w40 (Havoline deposit shield) oil in February 08 at approximately 85k miles.
Began premixing 2-3 ounces of Idemitsu per fill up (13 gallons) in August 2007.
Began using Techron cleaner fall 2006 to stave off carbon death and intake failure.
Swore off cheap no-name gas in 2006 shortly after averting disaster by using copious amounts of Techron and shifting on the buzzer.
Problems overcome:
Third intake valve began to stick summer 2006. I really thought it was the end. Lots of cleaner and extended high revs cleared it out after about 3 tanks.
Trans developed 2nd and 4th gear grinds around 50k miles. Was worried it was going south. BG Synchroshift worked. No grinds now at 100k.
Summer 2007, water in rear tail light. Drilled a tiny drain hole out of sight. Problem solved.
Summer 2007, began bucking and stalling in high heat (90 degree plus) and dying at red lights in 100+. Solution: premix, self made heat sink from simple sheet aluminum for coils, rear hood propped up about a 1/4 inch, rear hood weather strip removed, un-plumbed the heater hose to the throttle body, and removed the cat. It worked! Summer only mod, I return it to stock for Fall-Winter-Spring.
Spring 2008... car died After much fear, anxiety and 5 minutes with a timing light I found the problem. #1 ignition coil was toast. Replaced at 85k. Still using the other 3 original 100k mile coils! Will probably replace in the coming weeks for kicks and giggles.
Summer 2008, Headlights beginning to yellow. Used off-the-shelf rubbing compound to bring it back to clear.
Normal maintenance:
Oil changed (Havoline deposit shield) about every 4-5k miles. 5w20 first 85k miles. 10w40 last 15k miles.
Trans fluid changed 18k, 53k, 63k, 72k switched to BG Synchroshift II (much much smoother)
Rear diff fluid changed at 63k.
Coolant changed at 53k.
Replaced front brake rotors and pads at 69k miles with DBA slotted rotors and Hawk pads.
K&N air filter cleaned twice a year.
Tires: 3 sets of Kumho 245/40, currently on Pirelli PZero Nero's... Love the Pirellis!
Headlights replaced twice. GE Silverstars do not last!
Things learned:
We've got a great car! The Renesis is a hardy little engine, but you have to listen for subtle changes in sound and power, investigate and act before it's too late. There are some good dealers out there, but most will not anticipate problems for you and by the time something is really wrong, it's too late. Take charge of your own car and take care of it on your own. It will thank you for miles to come.
Sound off 100k milers! Lets hear how things are going for your cars. We could give our basic stats and let others know how they can keep their Renesis spinning longer. Many many thanks to Expo1 and Mazmart for how much their thread helped us all !
2004 MT Titanium Gray base model. Currently stock. Same stock engine, Same stock transmission. Same stock every major thing.
Bought and delivered in Feb 2004.
First time on the track (autocross) Summer 2004
On the dyno in the summers of 2004, 2005, and 2006
First and only ECU mod was the Canzoomer unit. Left it on until this year.
Have run catless the last two summers to keep the heat down, to keep some miles off the stock cat, and to keep the neighbors awake.
Switched to 10w40 (Havoline deposit shield) oil in February 08 at approximately 85k miles.
Began premixing 2-3 ounces of Idemitsu per fill up (13 gallons) in August 2007.
Began using Techron cleaner fall 2006 to stave off carbon death and intake failure.
Swore off cheap no-name gas in 2006 shortly after averting disaster by using copious amounts of Techron and shifting on the buzzer.
Problems overcome:
Third intake valve began to stick summer 2006. I really thought it was the end. Lots of cleaner and extended high revs cleared it out after about 3 tanks.
Trans developed 2nd and 4th gear grinds around 50k miles. Was worried it was going south. BG Synchroshift worked. No grinds now at 100k.
Summer 2007, water in rear tail light. Drilled a tiny drain hole out of sight. Problem solved.
Summer 2007, began bucking and stalling in high heat (90 degree plus) and dying at red lights in 100+. Solution: premix, self made heat sink from simple sheet aluminum for coils, rear hood propped up about a 1/4 inch, rear hood weather strip removed, un-plumbed the heater hose to the throttle body, and removed the cat. It worked! Summer only mod, I return it to stock for Fall-Winter-Spring.
Spring 2008... car died
After much fear, anxiety and 5 minutes with a timing light I found the problem. #1 ignition coil was toast. Replaced at 85k. Still using the other 3 original 100k mile coils! Will probably replace in the coming weeks for kicks and giggles.Summer 2008, Headlights beginning to yellow. Used off-the-shelf rubbing compound to bring it back to clear.
Normal maintenance:
Oil changed (Havoline deposit shield) about every 4-5k miles. 5w20 first 85k miles. 10w40 last 15k miles.
Trans fluid changed 18k, 53k, 63k, 72k switched to BG Synchroshift II (much much smoother)
Rear diff fluid changed at 63k.
Coolant changed at 53k.
Replaced front brake rotors and pads at 69k miles with DBA slotted rotors and Hawk pads.
K&N air filter cleaned twice a year.
Tires: 3 sets of Kumho 245/40, currently on Pirelli PZero Nero's... Love the Pirellis!
Headlights replaced twice. GE Silverstars do not last!
Things learned:
We've got a great car! The Renesis is a hardy little engine, but you have to listen for subtle changes in sound and power, investigate and act before it's too late. There are some good dealers out there, but most will not anticipate problems for you and by the time something is really wrong, it's too late. Take charge of your own car and take care of it on your own. It will thank you for miles to come.
Sticky!!!!!
This does need to become a sticky. There have been people with over 100k for years now ON THEIR ORIGINAL MOTORS TOO. The hardest to achieve this will be the very gently driven automatics unfortunately.
Paul.
Paul.
kevin@rotaryresurrection
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 61
From: east of Knoxville, TN
My car had 117,800 miles on it before I did the MT swap. It was an early build 04 Automatic, lady owned until 110k, mostly highway miles commuting daily about 100 miles. Original engine, reman trans. Still started perfectly (albeit a little slowly after 2-3 seconds) idled without issue (mild vibration normal to these cars) and drove fine until I did the swap. I havent had time to tear the auto/4port core engine down yet to look inside.
