RX8 - 20b swap / part II
02-06-2010, 05:55 AM
#26
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hi paul! just pm'ed. thanks!
before i weld, i also wanted to ask you fine gentlemen whether this oil diagram looks correct. one member told me that the two holes on oil pedestal are BOTH inlets to the engine, while another told me one is out & one is in. just wanted to confirm.
before i weld, i also wanted to ask you fine gentlemen whether this oil diagram looks correct. one member told me that the two holes on oil pedestal are BOTH inlets to the engine, while another told me one is out & one is in. just wanted to confirm.
02-06-2010, 08:06 AM
#28
alright so it looks like you are starting this at the right time, john!
buy me a plane ticket and ill bring everything i can and come help ( no job, no gf, few needs ) haha
and yea that other post on the fuse box needs to be connected (one is positive one is negative its all one big circle connected directly to the battery harness. you should need to change much on that side of the car as the 20b still uses the same type of starter, alternator, and a battery)
ill bring every wire off my car if i need to and i got plenty of other things you might need that your buddy scott threw away or sold on ebay.
buy me a plane ticket and ill bring everything i can and come help ( no job, no gf, few needs ) haha
and yea that other post on the fuse box needs to be connected (one is positive one is negative its all one big circle connected directly to the battery harness. you should need to change much on that side of the car as the 20b still uses the same type of starter, alternator, and a battery)
ill bring every wire off my car if i need to and i got plenty of other things you might need that your buddy scott threw away or sold on ebay.
02-06-2010, 07:35 PM
#30
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hey thanks paul & team! got the electrical system pdf. i have no clue what i'm looking at now, but i shall figure it out.
i spent majority of the day trying to weld aluminum. i'm getting the hang of it just now. i wasted about 10 hours because my welder doesn't really work @ 110v although the salesperson said it should. i hooked it up to dryer 220v and things are definitely looking up. and i'm completely snowed in. my front door doesn't even open
this also means that i haven't done anything to the car today
patrick, you have pm.
i spent majority of the day trying to weld aluminum. i'm getting the hang of it just now. i wasted about 10 hours because my welder doesn't really work @ 110v although the salesperson said it should. i hooked it up to dryer 220v and things are definitely looking up. and i'm completely snowed in. my front door doesn't even open
this also means that i haven't done anything to the car today
patrick, you have pm.
02-07-2010, 06:40 AM
#31
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say helllooo to self-tapping screws! this was probably the easiest thing you could do on a car. any advice on stuff that absolutely need some rubber bushings for vibration reduction would be appreciated though 
Last edited by stickmantijuana; 02-07-2010 at 06:42 AM.
02-07-2010, 07:20 AM
#32
Rob gonzalez
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02-07-2010, 12:40 PM
#33
Uncontrollable drifter
Hey, I wouldn't leave the Haltech ecu there, it could easily get damaged rain-car washing. Make a sealed box to put it in. Also, on the pedestal diagram-1 line goes into the oil filter and the other line leads oil out of the filter. On the side of the filter base there a line with a banjo bolt that screws in there-that line goes to the the first inlet on the side of the 1 oil cooler and the outlet goes to the other oil cooler(considering that they are in series like the stock) and the outlet of the second oil cooler goes to the front aluminum housing(return). Hope this clears things up if someone hasn't help you yet.
02-07-2010, 04:12 PM
#35
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on the pedestal diagram-1 line goes into the oil filter and the other line leads oil out of the filter. On the side of the filter base there a line with a banjo bolt that screws in there-that line goes to the the first inlet on the side of the 1 oil cooler and the outlet goes to the other oil cooler(considering that they are in series like the stock) and the outlet of the second oil cooler goes to the front aluminum housing(return). Hope this clears things up if someone hasn't help you yet.
rgonza or anyone with 20b with remote mount oil filter, could you confirm? my adapter block is cut so that both holes of the oil pedestal are coming from one common chamber.
as for the ecu, i'll mount it inside. thanks!
02-07-2010, 04:17 PM
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hello! would you let me know which of the wires from the OEM rx8 ECU box you have connected? I'm using haltech e11v2... i have haltech sensor pack & 3 bar MAP sensor. i don't know which one of the original rx8 wires to use to make the car run like yours 
i'm going to cut out all the wires i don't need next weekend.
i'm going to cut out all the wires i don't need next weekend.
02-07-2010, 05:02 PM
#37
You don't need the OEM injector wiring, or the OEM coil wiring....
Depending on what you want to function from the stock car...
You might need the MAF and MOP and ECT wiring intact, as well as the ESPS wiring and some way to make the PCM see the signal from the ES.
If you use the traction control/DSC/ABS system....you need most of the stock wiring to at least fake a reasonable signal....and likely the stock throttle body...
You need to do a bit of planning before you start cutting out the wiring....better to leave it and clean it up later when you have everything working
Depending on what you want to function from the stock car...
You might need the MAF and MOP and ECT wiring intact, as well as the ESPS wiring and some way to make the PCM see the signal from the ES.
If you use the traction control/DSC/ABS system....you need most of the stock wiring to at least fake a reasonable signal....and likely the stock throttle body...
You need to do a bit of planning before you start cutting out the wiring....better to leave it and clean it up later when you have everything working
02-07-2010, 08:09 PM
#38
Rob gonzalez
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Stick, is just only an adapter block to relocate the oil filter 2" to front. use a 12a oil filter adapter from rx7 first gen.
hey this is what i had thought originally, but i heard that both holes on the oil pedestal are inlets. one is going to oil pressure regulator and the other to the engine... meaning, they're both one chambers from the filter... opinions are split 50/50, so i don't know how to go about it.
rgonza or anyone with 20b with remote mount oil filter, could you confirm? my adapter block is cut so that both holes of the oil pedestal are coming from one common chamber.
as for the ecu, i'll mount it inside. thanks!
rgonza or anyone with 20b with remote mount oil filter, could you confirm? my adapter block is cut so that both holes of the oil pedestal are coming from one common chamber.
as for the ecu, i'll mount it inside. thanks!
02-07-2010, 08:13 PM
#39
Rob gonzalez
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Stick, dont cut any wire yet, i,m goin to send to you a wiring diagram . to conect the oem ecu with e11v2. do you have autocad?
hello! would you let me know which of the wires from the OEM rx8 ECU box you have connected? I'm using haltech e11v2... i have haltech sensor pack & 3 bar MAP sensor. i don't know which one of the original rx8 wires to use to make the car run like yours i'm going to cut out all the wires i don't need next weekend.
i'm going to cut out all the wires i don't need next weekend.
02-07-2010, 10:46 PM
#40
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no autocad.. i have wiring pdf's. they're harness stuff. it'd be nice to know which plugs are which. if you have a simplified diagram, i'd love to see it. i can't fit the 12A filter housing because it's too close to the firewall... that's why i need to relocate it...
thanks as always!
thanks as always!
02-08-2010, 01:35 AM
#41
Uncontrollable drifter
02-09-2010, 07:36 PM
#44
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hey patrick, thanks! my car's now 2ft under snow (as pictured), so in this weekend, i'll take some photos and post them here.
as of today, i tig welded my welding cart from scrap metals. i'll weld on some more cable management stuff & filler rod stands this weekend (ran out of steel). it holds two argon tanks & my tig welder.
as of the not powering up issue, i noticed that the 120AMP main fuse is missing. i placed an order. it should be here by thursday.
as of today, i tig welded my welding cart from scrap metals. i'll weld on some more cable management stuff & filler rod stands this weekend (ran out of steel). it holds two argon tanks & my tig welder.
as of the not powering up issue, i noticed that the 120AMP main fuse is missing. i placed an order. it should be here by thursday.
02-09-2010, 08:24 PM
#45
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damn!!! im going to work now for snow haha i plan on doing a 20b swap where did you get your motor and tranny and ecu and everything did it all cometogether from a jdm swap shop or something
02-09-2010, 09:57 PM
#46
Hey...you're a doctor? The old "work your newly-boarded *** off for a year to payy off the debt" trick... I remember you talkin about how this car was a dream you've had for a while.....I'm 1/2 way through med school and I can sympathize, I'm sure that after putting crazy car plans off for another 5 or 6 years I'm going to build something sick as well :-) Good luck with 20B reloaded!
02-10-2010, 04:31 AM
#47
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If you had the stock trigger wheel setup...and the MOP hooked up electrically it should work. I have a Haltech on my Renesis setup and that's what I did..I have a custom Hall effect sensor for the Haltech and the stock trigger wheel running the rest of the car. The wiring caused a few headaches...but it works good now
i'm just getting into the whole fabricating world.. it's really fun.
