El Kabong

I had exactly this problem. It took me two hours to get that nut back in place. Much cursing. Wife forbidding me to work on my car again.

My bracket came from Race Roots with that left-hand hole drilled out a little bit oversize. The hole still wasn't in the right place.

Race Roots: Please fix this! The left-hand hole can't be made any bigger because the tab is too small (there won't be enough "meat" left if you make the hole any bigger). Biggen that tab, make the hole another 1/16 larger. Save my marriage.

Now, of course, the clutch switch is not engaging, and I don't want to tighten those nuts any more for fear of snapping that stud. That would be a major PITA. So this morning I had to start the car by pressing that switch by hand as I start the car. Great anti-theft device, but impractical for daily driving.

Anyone have any ideas about that switch?

Core

iTrader: (1)

i ordered from your site; not sure what happened since my card did not get charged and i also did not receive the product or shipping info. was the product out of stock? i sent an email asking about the a full clutch kit recently. if the product was not ordered is there something happening with the product? i noticed the latest threads pointing to issues with the clutch engaging?

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Answer to the neutral safety switch is below, I posted it in the last page.

Core

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good thanks Grace, I'll call Raceroots in the morning and finalize my order then. I'm glad everything is covered in this thread.

Core

iTrader: (1)

Just received the clutch pedal kit with clutch line cable from Race Roots .. I'll let everyone know how it goes ..

Core

iTrader: (1)

just installed the clutch pedal and clutch line kit from race roots through performance by jax in sterling va .. it feels real stiff and nice now definitely worth the buy if your clutch snapped or is wobbly.

ktec

iTrader: (2)

Hi Race Roots,

Are you still around? I tried installing your pedal kit but the brackets don't sit flush with the assembly, so before I drill into it I want to confirm if this needs to be replaced or is ok. Bracket on top is off

CV270043

Recently had a professionally reinforced(welded) pedal fail around the welds and wasn’t able to get any warranty option due to the welds not failing but the metal itself tearing.
I used an old failed pedal that was welded by a local shop to replace the now broken pedal temporarily. I figured it could fail in the future so I purchased race roots brace. Received it and followed the instruction. Fairly easy to look at the parts and figure out how it went together. Placing the box like brace inside of the pedal assembly took some time to place properly but once placed inside I placed the outer brace and used the recommended drill bit size to make the hole. Lined it up so that the drill bit was in perpendicular to the brace wall and not get snagged on the outer brace. Once drilled putting the bolt and nut on each side wasn’t too hard after threading the nut on the inside of the assembly. Installation didn’t give me issues either line up on the first go. When pushing against the master cylinder posts it pushed the cylinder into the engine bay and once you fasten the top bolt on the assembly you just need to go to the engine bay and jiggle the cylinder against the firewall. After that just bolt it up and your done. Took me about 1 hr of working on it. Didn’t feel a huge improvement but that’s likely due to my pedal not currently failing. Virtually no play left or right though.

Kimura

Just picked one of the complete bracket and pedal assemblies up to replace a wobbling (left and right movement) and snapping pedal. Installation was pain free but some awkward positions were required to get at everything. Watch it you don't drop a nut behind the dead pedal or you'll have to remove that too. I replaced the clutch master cylinder as well. Everything feels incredibly solid now. I am glad I came across this before simply replacing my old one.