fan

Long story short: I've emailed a dealership and heard back from the internet sales guy. He quoted me a price that is 6% over invoice. Not horrible since the other dealership in town claims the 8's have such high demand they are selling for MSRP only.

Now, he didn't say "6% over", he just said "I can sell it for $26XXX"

Really I'll be happy with 4%. When I email him back, should I actually say "4% over" or just calculate that actual number and quote that.

It seems to me that knowing the invoice makes you sound like an "informed consumer" but I've read several stories where people will quote the invoice to a salesman, and they will get into an arguement, claiming that invoice # is false. Should I just avoid that altogether and give the $$ amount?

Also, if I say I want 4%, is this guy going to then come back with 5%? In other words, even though I really want 4%, should I say I want 3%?

Thanks

spdspappy

Print out the dealer invoice price w/ all the options from kbb & then offer him dealer invoice for what he has on his lot that you like (it's almost always a better deal when it's alread on the lot). If he won't do it, someone else will... My coworker went to the place I bought mine from and bought a Touring w/ spoiler, 6-disc changer (stock), 10 disc CD/MP3 changer (aftermarket, they paid for parts & labor), and cargo net for $28200. It may be worth a drive somewhere else if they won't deal... Remember, walking out (or acting like you are going to) can work wonders...

Outlaws eXtreme

Wow that's a great price then, a brand new GT with 10 disc, spoiler, 10 disc CD/MP3 changer, and cargo for 28.2 is great price. That's below invoice based on Edmunds.

If the dealer gets pissed at you for knowing the invoice price, then screw him and move on. It's not like there is only ONE dealer in the world.

S3/P3/E2

Actually, the KBB invoice price is only slightly over what Mazda lists the as their S-plan (employee/partner) price spec sheet - a whopping $26 difference. The KBB numbers also match those of several other reputable auto sources (to include the numbers directly from my credit union and bank). Remember, the dealer is also going to get 2% back in dealer holdback from Mazda after the sale; so if you pay 3% over invoice, they're going to make 5% total. Personally, I'd calculate the 3% over price and offer that. They're making 5% profit on the deal (about $1300), and that's quite fair. As many others have said in other threads here, if the dealer isn't willing to make that deal, then another will (even if you have to drive a little way to get there). $500 is $500 any way you look at it, and you can certainly drive 200 miles on a tank of gas for less than $30.

https://www.fordpartner.com/Common/PDF/Mazda2004.pdf

spdspappy

That was a Touring for that price, not a GT. It's still an awesome deal though.

mjd

You may also want to try mycar.com. Here, for $20 you will essentially put the 10 dealers nearest you in a bidding war against each other to offer you a car at the lowest possible price. The dealers pretty much do the negotiating for you, so you don't even need to speak to one until the end when your price is settled. The best thing is after the bidding is over, you are under no obligation to buy the car, so you can change your mind risk-free.

spdspappy

I've never heard of it. I wouldn't do it unless a bunch of other people have heard of this site & know it to be reputable. Otherwise, you may be out of $20...

mjd

I tried it once right as the RX-8 came out and I got the lowest price of $1500 over dealer invoice which was not that bad considering that the car is a new model and there were some dealers that were actually marking the car up. I wasn't really ready to buy then, but I just wanted to try it out. It is a very legitimate website. I'll be ready to buy soon and in the next month or so, I'll try it again. Since it will be the winter here in the midwest, I would expect to get something right near dealer invoice, considering the 8 is not really a winter car and there are tons of them sitting around here in WI.

fan

Thanks guys, things are going pretty well sofar. I've already gotten a dealership to match the "true market value" on edmunds.com, which is right around 4%. This is a lot easier than a thought. The internet makes car buying so much better :D

Question: From this link on edmunds about holdbacks:
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/incentives/holdback/

"Your best strategy is to avoid mentioning the holdback during negotiations. Mention holdback only if the dealer gives you some song-and-dance about not making any money when you know that isn't true."

Do you agree with this? Now that I've gotten 4%, I'm shooting for 3%. Should I just hint at it? Something like: "Assuming you got this car on the lot recently, I think this would work out to be a pretty good deal for both of us."

Thanks

Genshie

Dude, you should shoot for 1 or 2%. That is still a percentage over the price (supposed) that they paid for they car (which is probably lower). Plus on top of that is the holdback. I would definitely shoot for 3%, I'd even go for 1 or 2% so you know for a fact your worst case fallback is 3%. Drive it hard, it is end of year, they need to sell. What I would do if I were you is go in there, say you want 1% over, let them laugh in your face, then walk out. Wait till after christmas (if you can) until the 30th or 31st, and then walk back in. Magically you will have your 1%, if they havent already called you!!

Happy Rotoring,

Kurt G.

fan

Yeah I think 3% is the best I'm gonna get. I had 1 dealer tell me he would give me 1% if I'd get a standard (and that was without any dealing at all. I probably could have gotten it for invoice from him after some haggling), but I have to get an auto because of the wife factor. The autos are few and far between around here.

We already sold our other car, and carpooling with the wife is a pain, so waiting until Christmas (or after) isn't really an option. Thanks for the advice though.

I'm content with 4% (which I've already been offered), and getting 3% is just a bonus, so things should work out OK.

S3/P3/E2

Well, as another member put it before - a good deal on a new car is one in which you're satisfied about how much you paid. Individuals will have varying degrees of sucess in negotiating with a dealer based on timing and the willingness for the dealer to sell the car. Take the 3% if they'll buck for it, otherwise know that 4% is still well below MSRP and a better deal than many early buyers got. Merry Christmas and happy motoring!

Outlaws eXtreme

Exactly, I bought my car for $300 bucks under invoice after the college grad rebates, low financing, and no matter what, I'm going to be happy because the 8 is a fun vehicle to drive. Besides, my motto is... "You can always make more money, you can't buy those moments of joy though."

fan

Oh yeah, I forgot, I'm eligible for the College Grad rebate.

How does that work exactly? Can I iron out the deal via email and never tell them about being eligible. Then once the price is solid, mention the rebate once I actually go in. Then I don't have to worry about them taking that into account when negotiating price.

Do I just get the forms from the dealership and mail them in? I've read on here that the dealership takes it out immediately as part of the downpayment, so I'm confused.

spdspappy

The grad rebate makes no difference in terms of negotiating. That comes from Mazda, not out of the dealership's pocket.

Outlaws eXtreme

Just mention it after the deal is being signed and you got a firm price. The dealer could careless since it's not their profit you're cutting into. I just brought my diploma for them to copy... easier and faster.

fan

well I got my 3%. With the $500 rebate, I'll end up paying $300 over invoice. :D

spdspappy

Glad you're happy. Congrats... Pics!

S3/P3/E2

Excellent! I had a feeling you would if they were eager to offer the 4% in the first place. Glad to hear you got a good deal on the one you were looking for!