When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Moved the trans out of the way and popped in the aluminum Isuzu driveshaft. It fits without rubbing the heat shield, ppf, or any other component. Things are working out as planned which is very nice.
Now to get the driveshaft shortened, finish off the ppf and complete the trans and engine mounts.
Not sure if your still around with this, but you need to weld in cross bars between those tubes to trinangulate the loads. It has to bending a lot without them. In fact it needs a 3rd bar to form a triangle with the cross bars to be a proper PPF. It also needs to mount rigid instead of that pivot bushing to function correctly.
Not sure if your still around with this, but you need to weld in cross bars between those tubes to trinangulate the loads. It has to bending a lot without them. In fact it needs a 3rd bar to form a triangle with the cross bars to be a proper PPF. It also needs to mount rigid instead of that pivot bushing to function correctly.
.
There's an 1/8" plate welded between the bars and runs the full length of the torque arm. That plate basically turn it into an I-beam. The bushing is required because the differential is on bushings. It can not be welded to the crossmember because the differential is allowed movement because of it's bushings. The front of the torque arm needs some freedom of movement because of this. A rigid joint could crack and fail. I'm doing the exact same thing on my Isuzu swap. All that bar needs to do is hold the angle of the diff and take the torque.
Last edited by kickerfox; Jan 11, 2018 at 10:40 AM.
Curious for updates. I did a jz fc swap and this looks a little more involved, just interested if it is finished or what.
It's moving along, slowly but surely. Drivetrain is mounted in the car and everything is lined up pretty perfectly. I pulled it out to get some slave cylinder and pilot bearing details buttons up, then I can mount everything again and start working on plumbing all the systems.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Not sure if your still around with this, but you need to weld in cross bars between those tubes to trinangulate the loads. It has to bending a lot without them. In fact it needs a 3rd bar to form a triangle with the cross bars to be a proper PPF. It also needs to mount rigid instead of that pivot bushing to function correctly.
.
As kicker mentioned the ppf is more like an I-beam now. I thought I had pics of it but I guess I'll need to snap some new ones.
Don't forget the diff is mounted in the car on a couple of pivot style bushings.
Since my pff doesn't attach directly to the transmission I had to put in a rigid cross member that the ppf and transmission both mount to.
Cool. People don't realize how much time and effort goes into an actual build. My JZ FC took 2 years to get perfect exactly everything how I wanted it and my LS FC after that took 6 months which is a really basic swap. These things just take time but you really feel accomplished when you get it done.
That being said, the ls fc is the last swap I'll do; running out of youth and time.
I wish I could devote more time and money into this project on a daily basis, but I'm making progress when I'm able to at least. It's a big learning experience for me having to fabricate, or design something to be fabricated when I can't find a part to serve the purpose. But it does feel great to build something to solve an issue so I can move onto the next thing. At least now I'm at a point where it feels like any progress I make now is significant and puts me that much closer to driving it.
