383 Stroker RX8 hoping for 500+ hp and tq buld.
03-06-2010, 08:51 PM
#51
500 to the wheels is easy enough to do with a 383. 383 w/ 10.5:1 compression or so, decent cam, a nice intake and a 850 double pump should easily put you around 450-500.
11:1 w/ a big cam, spreadbore intake, and a 850 double pump or bigger would go 600+
03-06-2010, 08:53 PM
#52
500 to the wheel??
uhhhhh--dont know if i would want to do that without some real chassis bracing and swapping axles?
So the PPF will be completely gone right?
I really dont know what the diff will take? or the rear suspension for that matter.
Whoooo--getting the engine is will be a piece of cake compared as to what to do with the rest of it?
You the man dude--show us how! rooting for ya.
OD
uhhhhh--dont know if i would want to do that without some real chassis bracing and swapping axles?
So the PPF will be completely gone right?
I really dont know what the diff will take? or the rear suspension for that matter.
Whoooo--getting the engine is will be a piece of cake compared as to what to do with the rest of it?
You the man dude--show us how! rooting for ya.
OD
Better axles will be definitely needed. Diff probably won't happen(but that is just basing that off of FC TII and FD diffs). Rear suspension will probably be ok(might need to upgrade suspension links to the JIC pieces which are about $3500 for all of them).
03-06-2010, 09:12 PM
#53
According to Charles from BHR....You need to be concerned about the rear lateral links as they bend at 600. The PPF will break at about 420 but you will have a new one, anyway, or not one at all.
they also sale a set of axles that are good to 800 hp...and he said we wasn't sure about the diff holding up.
Well I'm still waiting on the motor mounts...so I still haven't gotten the motor in... But the problem I had with it binding was I had 2 rods in backwards and didn't realize it...well just cause I wasn't aware of it. But just for fun. I went ahead and threw it together without my cam that comes in sunday. Here's a idea what it looks like.
by the way I took this with my cell so quality isn't the greatest
Last edited by outinnowhere3193; 03-08-2010 at 09:00 PM.
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toniok (10-02-2017)
03-14-2010, 11:04 AM
#59
Yeah the motor mounts are made of 3/8 angle iron....that's what it started off as...from there it's a piece of 1/4 inch wrapped over the top of it...to make it look better and well that much stronger... I'll be painting them and lifting my car it's 2 inches back up and then maybe one more inch.
03-14-2010, 04:15 PM
#61
It's a Cavalier
Yah! I would like to see you just driving around in a couple of normal situations... idling and taking off from a stoplight, highway driving, a few twisties. it would be cool to see how it does in day to day situations with all that torque and power available.
03-14-2010, 08:55 PM
#63
YES lol there is no since in having a rough idling stroker motor that doesn't shake you at idle. lol I don't mind it. Everyone complains about the solid mount rotarty....and honestly I never did know the difference... I'm not picky. I like the feel of the power. I thought about poly but then I decided 500hp/tq I'd have to brace the motor well and I decided that the solid would be better. Besides the way I have it set in there...you can't raise the engine without removing the transmission. So to just change mounts you'd have to remove the transmission. So solid is better. I have stud head bolts as well...so if you do any type of work that has to do with the heads..... You guessed it the engine comes out.
03-15-2010, 10:52 AM
#67
no blower will be required...if this motor doesn't push out a easy 500 then I got something wrong. With the intake, heads, and cam I should push the easy 500. Only thing that could be possible would be the carb not big enough. But from the numbers I was running for cc and everything this 670 double pumper carb should have excellent throttle response and power the motor just right.
03-16-2010, 05:15 PM
#69
Well I talked to summit..and summit told me that they hope to get my cam in on thursday...so then they will mail it out to me. Clutch, and new 1974 aluminum nova radiator came in. So I'll be fitting it. I'm making new tie rod ends to keep away from tie rod bump steering. But all of that should be done within the next couple of days. I'll just be waiting on the cam to come in and she will be ready to fire and drive. I'll give the messurments for my driveshaft to my guy tomorrow and he'll have me a driveshaft thursday if not friday. But all in all only thing holding me up is my cam. I'll be starting a new thread explaining everything with cost.
03-16-2010, 06:25 PM
#71
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wow, this is one heck of a build.
can't wait to see the completed project / videos.
can't wait to see the completed project / videos.
03-16-2010, 07:10 PM
#72
no blower will be required...if this motor doesn't push out a easy 500 then I got something wrong. With the intake, heads, and cam I should push the easy 500. Only thing that could be possible would be the carb not big enough. But from the numbers I was running for cc and everything this 670 double pumper carb should have excellent throttle response and power the motor just right.
670 double pump should be fine for 500 ponies but you are going to be on the edge of the carb's fuel limits. If you would go to a 800 double pump, that'd last all the way to 725hp or so.
03-17-2010, 04:45 AM
#73
Tonight I finished...and yes I say tonight it's almost 6 in the morning..getting ready for bed lol. My steering was made and setup. As well as measuring out for my new driveshaft. I'll call summit when I get up to find out when my cam will be here. But when my cam gets in.... I'll be ready to put the motor in and fire it up. Car should be running and driving next week.
03-18-2010, 04:13 PM
#75
Flux never looks good but as long as the heats up it welds good...just looks like ****.
If you look you see the front which is like a triangle...then it goes over the top. That's two totally different pieces...but It's been welded... Grinded and welded again and then touched up with the grinder...and it looks like one piece and not two.
It's just that flux core and weld on top of weld that makes it all look like ****. But I'd rather have weld on weld and be shitty then one small pass