LS, I replied to exactly what Joker wrote, he said and I quote "
PROBLEM motor needs to move "7" inches back to connect tranny to rear diff". There was a hint of humour in my reply. I do not think the 3 P's were used in this swap attempt.

 

Guess the person in the backseat could do the shifting. Lets not be too literal.

 

hey sooo yea,, im using the oem drive shaft the oem metal "tail shaft" oem tranny and adapter,,,,,


okay so with the "tail shaft" connected to the rear diff the tranny/engine combo did not reach as the oil pan was catching on the k member, know that the new pan is fitted i should be able to connect the "tail shaft" to the tranny then with the engine crane adjust the height and hood clearance i need and fabricate some engine mounts

then vacuum lines coolant lines, wiring harness and ignition

 

here is the motor lifted out so i can remove the tranny and change oil pans


here is a pic of the 1jz and 2jz(rear sump) oil pans side by side


and here is the rear sump (2jz) oil pan installed

 

in preparation of fitting everything together to finally bolt in the motor/tranny assembly the throw-out bearing had to be finished i had to use the heavy duty much larger 1jz throw-out bearing

the 1jz's inner diameter was i believe 45mm and the Rx-8 6speed's throw-out was 36"

here is a pic of that



now the solution was a spacer I had it machined 36mm.id. x 45mm.od. allso I had a washer/fork base made 5mm x 45mm.id. x 56mm.od.



here they are together the 5mm washer allows the forks to have a greater surface area to connect only to the non rotating section of the bearing leaving the outer side of the bearing to rotate freely against the pressure plate



here is the assembly installed with minimal tolerances




tomorrow I reassemble everything for the last time and get my mounts made!!

 

custom engine mounts!!!

 

this will be the assembly of the motor mounts,,,, Im doing this wrong but it's the strongest easiest cheapest way i can make it work, the drawing is not to scale or exact in placement all final fitting will be done in person wit the materials in place

 

here is a picture of the mounts assembled, and the motor fully installed.

 

Man I would box that rectangle stock and at least weld them to the car. I welded my stand on and they are made out of 3/16" steel. But they have short faces and are boxed so very sturdy. What are you gonna do for steering? I used some Hinson drop down brackets but they mount to the factory rack mounts which you cut off. Lol

 

Yes everything is getting welded as a finishing step,,, also I was going to make a drop down braket and just extend the tie rods,,, how much is the hinson and can you post a pic?

 

Hinson sells fhe rackrelocation brackets(you cant use now bc you cut the stock rack mount off) and bump steer kit which drops the tie rod ends with the rack. You could use a manual rack or Mazda rack and make up alot of room. I kinda regret going with the EPS. Should have used a miata or RX7 rack.

 

is the miata rack almost a direct boltup?

 

Well I intend to use the rx-8 rack and connect it to the rx-8 harness,, I also intend on mounting it with only 3 bolts and 2 exhaust clamps with rubber bushings I cut the item mount the motor lower about a 1/4" from the k member

 

Another guy who sells the rack relocation kit & bumpsteer ends is LSConversions - V8 Rx8 Conversions

Obviously the rest of his parts are useless to you, but those guys may help you.


Progress looks good! Good to know another swapped RX8 is going to be prowling the GTA streets!

Are you desiring the electric steering stay? For what its worth, I'm swapping a hydraulic rack into my LS swapped '05 as I am not a fan of electric steering, the fact that the rack is jammed down below the subframe, and since the LS1 has a hydraulic pump fitted to it, I see no reason to keep EPS.

Also I have my LS1 sitting much lower then everyone else it seems as I am trying to make the least impact on the moment of the car that I can, my oil pan is pretty well flush with the bottom of the subframe, and I had to notch the subframe in the front between the old rack mounts for clearance, so even with a smaller diameter body on a hydraulic rack it is still low.

 

NC Chassis is fairly close to bolting right up, only issue is the bypass lines on it come vertically out of it which may or may not be a clearance issue depending on how low your motor is sitting in the car.

For myself, I would still have to space down a miata rack for clearance, I ended up buying a Mustang rack which is proving optimal for the way it mounts allowing maximum ground clearance, forward facing bypasses gives more clearance to bottom of the pan, and the tie rod ends are same diameter/thread, just need shortening.

 

excited about this swap picking my 2jz up here soon and starting this same swap except i will be doing the 2jzge-t

 

If I understand it correctly, the original steering rack can be converted without going to all that fitment trouble ...

RX8 - Power Steering Conversion - V8 Roadsters

 

make sure to get your hands on the rear sump pan lol

 

Its in the process at the moment!

 

In their picture appears they have a NC miata rack???

 

You'd have to discuss it with them. That picture may not be the actual RX8 fitment for all I know. Just throwing it out there that they claim to offer a bolt-on solution.

Edit: reading it again it's not clear what rack core they require.


.

 

fitment of the rear sump oil pan with 5/8ths inch tranny adapter just barley slips behind the k member while the tranny is in the oem position with drive shaft attached









turbos are all reattached and plumbed in




working on the intake manifold an deleting as many coolant and vacuum routes as possible also had the BOV adapter welded on to the throttle body "because reasons"

 

Looks good!!

Are you still planning on running the EPS rack? Looks like it will be tight!

I opted for a mustang steering rack for mine, looks like it will be a dream to fit in!

Did you have to cut the firewall behind the turbo's?

 

yup Im going to try my best to reuse the EPS rack and I had to cut and hammer the firewall,, one the engine starts up im pulling it all out again to weld any holes shave the bay and tidy it all up with a few more coats of rustoleum blue

 

so Thanks to 9krpmrx8 i know know what I am looking at in terms of hooking up fuel to the 1jzgte the answer being one is the fuel supply and one is just a fuel tank vent

I may just run the return fuel down the vent and have a vented gas cap ill dig in more tomorrow

original post