Winter storage question
11-04-2019, 12:33 PM
#1
Winter storage question
I dont have a garage so it will be covered on my driveway. Battery will be disconnected. My question is flat spots on tires from sitting all winter. I have Continental Extreme Contact which has a max psi of 50 plus. Right now they are at 32 psi. Would it be best to inflate the tires with a higher psi to avoid flat spots? If so, how high would you go?
11-04-2019, 01:03 PM
#2
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
Posts: 3,606
Received 649 Likes
on
510 Posts
You aren't going to prevent flat spots with 50 psi. You probably won't even do it with 100 psi (assuming the tires and valve stem could take it).
I've heard that you can use many layers corrugated cardboard but that will probably only work if stored inside.
The flat spots should only last until tire is driven on while warm.
That said, I don't recommend storing the car outside in the winter on summer tires. If possible, put the car on jack stands and pull the wheels off for storage indoors.
I've heard that you can use many layers corrugated cardboard but that will probably only work if stored inside.
The flat spots should only last until tire is driven on while warm.
That said, I don't recommend storing the car outside in the winter on summer tires. If possible, put the car on jack stands and pull the wheels off for storage indoors.
11-04-2019, 03:28 PM
#3
I appreciate the thought but putting it on jacks or removing the tires is not an option for me. Too old and too out of shape for that. 😩
But if I understand you, the tires will rebound from flat spots so it is not a permanent condition... Right?
If thats the case, I can live with that.
But if I understand you, the tires will rebound from flat spots so it is not a permanent condition... Right?
If thats the case, I can live with that.
11-04-2019, 03:45 PM
#4
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
i would over inflate my tires for winter storage so in the spring you can just let the excess air out and it will help somewhat with flat spots. the cold weather will lose some pressure in the tires over the winter but i never had any issues with tires going bad from sitting till spring. theres a few other things i would do before storage. i would change oil, fill gas tank, steel wool in the tail pipes and keep an eye out for critters nesting under the hood
11-04-2019, 06:56 PM
#5
Thanks for the other suggestions. Why fill up the gas tank? Fuel degrades. Wouldnt it be better not to have too much gas sitting for months. And I'm guessing the tailpipe thing is for critters?
11-04-2019, 07:48 PM
#7
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
yep
11-04-2019, 11:22 PM
#8
You can and should put fuel stabilizer. Along the lines of using cardboard, you can use dense insulation foam under each wheel.
You also want to make sure the car doesn't accumulate moisture from the bottom up, so around here, where winters are hard, the premium solution are fully enclosed car pockets. Like a cover except it also has an undercover such that you drive over it and zip it together with the car cover to create a sealed pocket.
Moisture from the ground is absolute murder on the underbody. Do all you can to make sure it's either sealed or well ventilated. The snow that falls around the car will seal moisture underneath.
You also want to make sure the car doesn't accumulate moisture from the bottom up, so around here, where winters are hard, the premium solution are fully enclosed car pockets. Like a cover except it also has an undercover such that you drive over it and zip it together with the car cover to create a sealed pocket.
Moisture from the ground is absolute murder on the underbody. Do all you can to make sure it's either sealed or well ventilated. The snow that falls around the car will seal moisture underneath.
11-05-2019, 06:40 PM
#9
I started using Pri G instead of Stabil when needing a stabilizer. They claim it will keep gas good for years if you add it once per year unlike Stabil.
Here in Colorado we have low humidity. While we have snow, it melts quick. We have 300 days of sunshine and are a mile closer to the sun.
Here in Colorado we have low humidity. While we have snow, it melts quick. We have 300 days of sunshine and are a mile closer to the sun.
11-07-2019, 05:52 AM
#10
RX-Heaven
iTrader: (6)
This is from Stu Aull on rx7club. I felt that it was an excellent writeup on winter storage and would be beneficial to share. Some of the stuff is carbureted RX-7 specific, but most of the information is excellent!
"been storing mine outside for 11yrs in Alaska.
Take a Breathe. Ready?
My pointers:
1) buy a cover, an _actual_ car cover. It MUST be a breathable material! (all car covers breath) Anything else will trap moisture and ruin your paint.
An exposed car will collect all sorts of trash in the sunroof and rear hatch troughs. Recipe for moisture trapping when the drains plug up (and they WILL), then rust-o-rama!!!! This is a big deal!!! Sun damage to paint goes without saying.
You def get what you pay for! You can spend under $100, but you will be buying a replacement every 2-3 yrs. Cheapies are frail and if varments are ANY issue (mice, squirrels) they tend to fall in love with these as sources of nesting materials. I came out to one cover in the spring, that, from the window (I could see the front of the car, it looked fine). The back WAS GONE! Little bastids had taken it ALL away piece-by-piece!!.
After MUCH (3 covers!) trial and error I bought a Covercraft Weathershield HD. $300. NUKE-proof. Custom fit for RX7. Its super lightweight (almost like a ballistic nylon), completely weatherproof AND sunproof (yeah, cheap covers bake away under big sun) AND, unlike some if the cheaper, heavier materials that require large industrial washing (so, a laundromat), this can be done at home. My cars comes out from under these LOOKING LIKE WHEN THEY WENT IN in the Fall, which is what you want.
Finally, on covers. If you park in a high-wind area, the cover must be tied down! Flapping covers = beat paint! I bought some cheap adjustable webbing straps and wrap one around each end of the car. (The Weathershield has fitted bottoms and a mount to run a strap under the car at the center too, but this is not enough to keep it flapping in winds. It just means it will stay on the car.)
2)Mechanical Prep:
-wash and WAX. Vital under a cover esp. Dirt will be ground into paint under a cover. Add wind = sandpaper.
-new oil and filter. Sitting all winter with old oil and all its contaminants = bad idea.
-tires inflated to 45-50PSI. So they won't Flat-spot.
-do NOT apply hand brake. Can seize over winter. Wheel CHOCK the car.
-Park in _2nd_ gear. On my SA this is the shift position that applies LEAST tension to underlying rubber shift covers over transmission, which eventually fail and tear. ****? Sure, but rubber covers cost about $75 a set. + the car is held in place too.
3) engine prep:
-FULL TANK OF GAS: I mean to the brim. Any air space left inside is an opportunity to create moisture. =rust. And that is a world-of-hurt when the rusty tank starts dropping grunge into the fuel lines and causing all sort of driver headaches. ("Why does my car run so poorly, and stall?") Been there! Pulling and cleaning and relining gas tank? PITA!!
Some RX7s tanks have a DRAIN. 79-80 SA does NOT. Draining is a PITA. But would work too.
-Add a can of SEAFOAM to the fuel when you do the final fill. Does several things: (a) great gas preservative (yes, stored gas goes BAD), (b) is magic for the inside of the motor, removing carbon deposits, etc. best $8 tune-up you can spend.
Now, Park it in place for this:
and : PARK ON PLASTIC SHEET!
-ground OR concrete generate moisture up under the car = rust. Buy a sheet of 6+ gauge HD plastic and roll the car over it for the winter. Careful, VERY slippery to walk on in winter snow!! (you know, when you go out to brush off the baby...)
-disconnect the fuel pump for this (fuse in some models, in SA its a connection under the rear "seat" cover shield where the pump wires come up thru the floor board - I wired in a simple switch for this there on the shield). Why?
You want to RUN THE ENGINE till the carb starves out of gasoline. Again: Old Gas = bad gas. It evaporates over the winter leaving behind potential deposits of gunk in the tiny jets and orifices of the carb. You want gas OUT.
-remove air cleaner, pour about 4 oz of motor oil down each primary throat of the carb. I use a long screwdriver blade to hold butterflies open. This is lubing oil to sit IN the combustion chambers over the winter. This is ALSO why you don't want the fuel pump dumping MORE gas into the engine because…
-DISCONNECT ignition (pull plug wires at coils) and DRY SPIN (as in: No Gas, see?) motor several revolutions. To mix the oil around the Chambers.
-remove battery. It will need to be on a trickle charger in the house (or somewhere warm), or kiss it goodbye. Battery Tender makes a nice charger. Batteries GAS out, so not something you want cooking away under the hood all winter generating acidic gas to eat paint.
-remove air cleaner and place PLASTIC sheet over the carb mouth. Idea is to seal off engine block from external moisture = rust. Place air cleaner back over to seal.
-seal (baggies and zip ties) EXHAUST pipes. Same reason at that end.
-finally, I seal (baggie and zip tie) Battery cable ends. Spray with WD40. So they don't rust/ corrode over the winter, and moisture can't leach into the actual exposed cable wires. This eventually causes the cables to fail...
4) Varments:
-in addition to above cover warnings
-buy 2 bars of IRISH SPRING soap. Cut in 4 pieces and use 4 INSIDE car (I put on a piece of plastic or in an open dish). Mice HATE the smell (google it) and will not nest in the car, with the stink and chewing damage that comes with it. And they WILL find a way in!!
Leaves a nice smell in there for you in the spring too.
-2nd bar: do the same in the ENGINE compartment! Place on block to protect engine harness, another under the brake Master to protect main harness, one each under/by each headlight motor. THEY WILL EAT YOUR WIRES - cause they love building nests in there...
-don't recommend mothballs in passenger area because they do leave a smell! Engine? sure!!! Just make sure they are in a container as I have heard they will damage paint if placed on a metal surface directly.
5) Moisture:
This can build up IN the car over the winter depending where you live. Esp high-humidity environments like SE, NE, NW (Alaska winters VERY dry so not an issue). If the car is not ventilated in some way, expect rot and MOLD thru-out!!! This can be EPIC.
-crack door windows VERY slightly (obv with a cover this is a snap. No cover? then rain/snow gets in.)
-Buy DESSICANTS:
Griotts sells large, re-useable bags specifically for this :
Storage Desiccant Bag, One Pound - Griot's Garage
Buy 2, one for front driver footwell, one in back hatch.
SPRING:
-remove pipe and carb plastic covers!
-remove soap/mothballs from motor
-connect fuel pump (or flick the Switch if you cleverly have wired it. Also makes a nice anti-theft device BTW)
-car will smoke like a Bastid on start up (!!!) burning off the engine oil. Neighbors will not be pleased
-DEflate tires!
-CHANGE FUEL FILTER!!! Can't tell you the number of mystery engine issues I had till I figured this out. Annual change a 'must' and this is the best time to do remember to do it.
-wash your cover! Or grind in last winters dirt into next winter's storage!
11 yrs and this has never failed me.
'luck.
Stu
80GS
Alaska"
"been storing mine outside for 11yrs in Alaska.
Take a Breathe. Ready?
My pointers:
1) buy a cover, an _actual_ car cover. It MUST be a breathable material! (all car covers breath) Anything else will trap moisture and ruin your paint.
An exposed car will collect all sorts of trash in the sunroof and rear hatch troughs. Recipe for moisture trapping when the drains plug up (and they WILL), then rust-o-rama!!!! This is a big deal!!! Sun damage to paint goes without saying.
You def get what you pay for! You can spend under $100, but you will be buying a replacement every 2-3 yrs. Cheapies are frail and if varments are ANY issue (mice, squirrels) they tend to fall in love with these as sources of nesting materials. I came out to one cover in the spring, that, from the window (I could see the front of the car, it looked fine). The back WAS GONE! Little bastids had taken it ALL away piece-by-piece!!.
After MUCH (3 covers!) trial and error I bought a Covercraft Weathershield HD. $300. NUKE-proof. Custom fit for RX7. Its super lightweight (almost like a ballistic nylon), completely weatherproof AND sunproof (yeah, cheap covers bake away under big sun) AND, unlike some if the cheaper, heavier materials that require large industrial washing (so, a laundromat), this can be done at home. My cars comes out from under these LOOKING LIKE WHEN THEY WENT IN in the Fall, which is what you want.
Finally, on covers. If you park in a high-wind area, the cover must be tied down! Flapping covers = beat paint! I bought some cheap adjustable webbing straps and wrap one around each end of the car. (The Weathershield has fitted bottoms and a mount to run a strap under the car at the center too, but this is not enough to keep it flapping in winds. It just means it will stay on the car.)
2)Mechanical Prep:
-wash and WAX. Vital under a cover esp. Dirt will be ground into paint under a cover. Add wind = sandpaper.
-new oil and filter. Sitting all winter with old oil and all its contaminants = bad idea.
-tires inflated to 45-50PSI. So they won't Flat-spot.
-do NOT apply hand brake. Can seize over winter. Wheel CHOCK the car.
-Park in _2nd_ gear. On my SA this is the shift position that applies LEAST tension to underlying rubber shift covers over transmission, which eventually fail and tear. ****? Sure, but rubber covers cost about $75 a set. + the car is held in place too.
3) engine prep:
-FULL TANK OF GAS: I mean to the brim. Any air space left inside is an opportunity to create moisture. =rust. And that is a world-of-hurt when the rusty tank starts dropping grunge into the fuel lines and causing all sort of driver headaches. ("Why does my car run so poorly, and stall?") Been there! Pulling and cleaning and relining gas tank? PITA!!
Some RX7s tanks have a DRAIN. 79-80 SA does NOT. Draining is a PITA. But would work too.
-Add a can of SEAFOAM to the fuel when you do the final fill. Does several things: (a) great gas preservative (yes, stored gas goes BAD), (b) is magic for the inside of the motor, removing carbon deposits, etc. best $8 tune-up you can spend.
Now, Park it in place for this:
and : PARK ON PLASTIC SHEET!
-ground OR concrete generate moisture up under the car = rust. Buy a sheet of 6+ gauge HD plastic and roll the car over it for the winter. Careful, VERY slippery to walk on in winter snow!! (you know, when you go out to brush off the baby...)
-disconnect the fuel pump for this (fuse in some models, in SA its a connection under the rear "seat" cover shield where the pump wires come up thru the floor board - I wired in a simple switch for this there on the shield). Why?
You want to RUN THE ENGINE till the carb starves out of gasoline. Again: Old Gas = bad gas. It evaporates over the winter leaving behind potential deposits of gunk in the tiny jets and orifices of the carb. You want gas OUT.
-remove air cleaner, pour about 4 oz of motor oil down each primary throat of the carb. I use a long screwdriver blade to hold butterflies open. This is lubing oil to sit IN the combustion chambers over the winter. This is ALSO why you don't want the fuel pump dumping MORE gas into the engine because…
-DISCONNECT ignition (pull plug wires at coils) and DRY SPIN (as in: No Gas, see?) motor several revolutions. To mix the oil around the Chambers.
-remove battery. It will need to be on a trickle charger in the house (or somewhere warm), or kiss it goodbye. Battery Tender makes a nice charger. Batteries GAS out, so not something you want cooking away under the hood all winter generating acidic gas to eat paint.
-remove air cleaner and place PLASTIC sheet over the carb mouth. Idea is to seal off engine block from external moisture = rust. Place air cleaner back over to seal.
-seal (baggies and zip ties) EXHAUST pipes. Same reason at that end.
-finally, I seal (baggie and zip tie) Battery cable ends. Spray with WD40. So they don't rust/ corrode over the winter, and moisture can't leach into the actual exposed cable wires. This eventually causes the cables to fail...
4) Varments:
-in addition to above cover warnings
-buy 2 bars of IRISH SPRING soap. Cut in 4 pieces and use 4 INSIDE car (I put on a piece of plastic or in an open dish). Mice HATE the smell (google it) and will not nest in the car, with the stink and chewing damage that comes with it. And they WILL find a way in!!
Leaves a nice smell in there for you in the spring too.
-2nd bar: do the same in the ENGINE compartment! Place on block to protect engine harness, another under the brake Master to protect main harness, one each under/by each headlight motor. THEY WILL EAT YOUR WIRES - cause they love building nests in there...
-don't recommend mothballs in passenger area because they do leave a smell! Engine? sure!!! Just make sure they are in a container as I have heard they will damage paint if placed on a metal surface directly.
5) Moisture:
This can build up IN the car over the winter depending where you live. Esp high-humidity environments like SE, NE, NW (Alaska winters VERY dry so not an issue). If the car is not ventilated in some way, expect rot and MOLD thru-out!!! This can be EPIC.
-crack door windows VERY slightly (obv with a cover this is a snap. No cover? then rain/snow gets in.)
-Buy DESSICANTS:
Griotts sells large, re-useable bags specifically for this :
Storage Desiccant Bag, One Pound - Griot's Garage
Buy 2, one for front driver footwell, one in back hatch.
SPRING:
-remove pipe and carb plastic covers!
-remove soap/mothballs from motor
-connect fuel pump (or flick the Switch if you cleverly have wired it. Also makes a nice anti-theft device BTW)
-car will smoke like a Bastid on start up (!!!) burning off the engine oil. Neighbors will not be pleased
-DEflate tires!
-CHANGE FUEL FILTER!!! Can't tell you the number of mystery engine issues I had till I figured this out. Annual change a 'must' and this is the best time to do remember to do it.
-wash your cover! Or grind in last winters dirt into next winter's storage!
11 yrs and this has never failed me.
'luck.
Stu
80GS
Alaska"
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rotary-RX8
Series I Wheels, Tires, Brakes & Suspension
9
04-19-2014 09:06 AM
WhiteDealershipRice
SE RX-8 Forum
1
10-08-2006 10:48 PM