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Spark problem?

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Old 08-05-2022, 03:19 PM
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Spark problem?

Hi i did buy a 2004 rx8 231hp that had bad stationary gear bearings so i did rebuild the engine with new seals and bearings and put it in the car and then trying to start it but wont start got a code for crank sensor so replace that and same thing, cleaned the trigger plate and that dident work it is like its trying to start but wont i did check for spark and it seems like it only sparks a few times? any suggestions? im lost..
Old 08-05-2022, 05:22 PM
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What do you mean by "sparks a few times"?
Did you reset the ESS profile (20-time brake pedal press)?
Was it properly rebuilt or you only changed the bearings?
Are you sure the correct coils are connected to the right spark plugs?
Are you sure the correct fuel injectors are connected to the right connectors? this is a very common mixup when reinstalling an engine
Old 08-06-2022, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Loki
What do you mean by "sparks a few times"?
Did you reset the ESS profile (20-time brake pedal press)?
Was it properly rebuilt or you only changed the bearings?
Are you sure the correct coils are connected to the right spark plugs?
Are you sure the correct fuel injectors are connected to the right connectors? this is a very common mixup when reinstalling an engine
yeah i did reset the ESS and i changed bearings and seals and coils are connected to the right spark plugs im pretty sure the injectors are correct to and i mean with sparks a few time that i checked with a timing gun when i crank it wants to start when the gun flashes but then its like it just cuts ignition
Old 08-06-2022, 03:02 AM
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Here is a video of it but the light dosent show that good on camera..
Old 08-06-2022, 07:11 AM
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I did measure my coils today and i got from a-b=1,6k ohm and b-c=0 and a-c=0 and i dosent really understand that because what i have read should it be from b-c some resistance or am i wrong?
Old 08-06-2022, 07:32 AM
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Do all the coils do this irregular rhythm? If so there's still a timing /ESS problem.
Focus on the coils running leading plugs, the trailings don't always fire at startup.
Old 08-06-2022, 09:43 AM
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Yeah all do the same and i dont know why becuse i cleaned the timing plate and it has no damage to it and there is a new sensor and the plate dosent even wobble so what more can it be?

Last edited by Danne1127; 08-06-2022 at 09:47 AM.
Old 08-06-2022, 10:06 AM
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When you reset the ess do you need to turn engine so the arrow on trigger plate is straight up before you reset?
Old 08-06-2022, 12:30 PM
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No you just push the brake until the oil pressure gauge does a sweep.
Is the new sensor OEM?
Old 08-06-2022, 12:49 PM
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Okay yeah the gauge moved.
No its not a oem sensor but could it really be that?
I have read a bit now and it was one that had something similar and for him it was the knock sensor that was bad could it be the same here?

Last edited by Danne1127; 08-06-2022 at 01:41 PM.
Old 08-06-2022, 03:04 PM
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Are there any codes to help narrow it down?
Yes a non-OEM sensor could totally do it.
Old 08-06-2022, 03:29 PM
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I only get P0336 code for the ess sensor not any other codes.
Okay but i think it’s weird because it reads rpm on the obd scanner?
Old 08-06-2022, 04:19 PM
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And the rpm read out is nice and consistent? Does p0336 come back if you clear it?

One other thought is to clean the grounding points, battery terminals, etc. P0336 doesn't strictly mean the sensor isn't working, just that it's not staying in the expected range. So it could read good enough to get an rpm signal (+/-) but not well enough for accurate spark triggering if that makes sense. Spark needs to happen at certain ES position. RPM just needs it to do complete circles.
Old 08-06-2022, 04:40 PM
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im gonna check the consistency of the rpm and yes the code comes back directly when i crank it and i have cleaned all the ground wiring spots but i start with checking the consistency of the rpm and then i come back
Old 08-07-2022, 04:26 AM
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I did check rpm today and it was steady but i did also check voltage and it locked like this dont know if it has something to do with it the dip is where i cranked it.
Old 08-07-2022, 07:32 AM
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If the starter isn't spinning the engine fast enough it can trigger a shaft sensor code and cut spark.
Old 08-07-2022, 08:23 AM
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The dip is normal while cranking, you're putting a big load on the battery.

Good point about turning too slow, what rpm was the starter giving you?
Old 08-07-2022, 10:56 AM
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It was spinning something around 260rpm
Old 08-07-2022, 11:57 AM
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Did the wire to the ESS get pinched or damaged?

or the plug?

I would check continuity back to the ECU pins to make sure that makes sense
Old 08-07-2022, 12:25 PM
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Yeah im gonna check that tomorrow but it had no damage what i could see
Old 08-07-2022, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Danne1127
It was spinning something around 260rpm
I think it takes 300 rpm + to get an accurate reading from the trigger wheel for spark. Don't quote me on this.
Old 08-07-2022, 08:38 PM
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It should be able to read fine at typical starter speed ~240+?
If the battery was dying and the starter couldn't get over 150, I could see it.. but 260 is normal starting speed for a healthy but not upgraded S1 starter.
Old 08-07-2022, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Loki
It should be able to read fine at typical starter speed ~240+?
If the battery was dying and the starter couldn't get over 150, I could see it.. but 260 is normal starting speed for a healthy but not upgraded S1 starter.
Your probably right but they did upgrade the starter for a reason. Maybe 260 is fine but at the minimal end of the spectrum for the ess.
Old 08-08-2022, 09:14 AM
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Okay so i did check the wires to ess sensor today and it was good connection. Im gonna take of intake and check the injectors connectors that they are in right place to be 100% sure
Old 08-08-2022, 04:40 PM
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From the video and my extensive experience listening to that sound. I believe you are spinning fast enough.

The trigger wheel, unless you drilled your own holes, can only be put on one way. Anytime you change the sensor do the brake pedal stomp 20x reset.

For fueling some idiot decided to mark the different injectors with very similar colors on tape that fades and falls off. These being hooked up wrong will certainly give you these issues. (I'm not sure if the E shaft timing code gets kicked due to the car seeing that the ""timing"" is off between the fuel and spark.) I had the same code happen to me and went through 3 sensors, all were good but my injectors were hooked up wrong.

For spark you should ensure your plugs are clean(check for gas/flooding) and make sure your coils are plugged in correctly and your plugs into the rechecked coils.

Has the engine run at all since the rebuild? Compression test the engine before going crazy replacing the rest of the car.
-------------
One trick I have used in the past is to hold your gas pedal to the floor which cuts fuel. Try to start the car for 4-5 seconds and then release the gas pedal to try to introduce fuel while spinning. You can also try this as a quick deflood procedure holding the gas and starting for 7s.....wait....repeat. Then trying to start. Note that this does not clear out the fuel/oil that could stay on the spark plugs and foul them.


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