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rebuilt engine new coils wires and plugs. checked for vacuum leaks none found. does not matter on rpm will die at idle or 3000 rpm. no cel. help please searches dont turn up exact problem.
What problems were you having before the rebuild? Did you do the rebuild yourself, or have someone else do it?
Have you tried clearing the ESS profile? Its like a crankshaft sensor, but for the rotary. Each engine is unique, meaning if your ECU is using your old ESS profile, it wont work very well on your new engine.
i rebuilt it. i got it with broken apex seal. it does smoke a little when running. it will run longer if i unplug maf. but will still just die. all wiring done using manual . put new fuel pump in and bypassed resistor. if i am holding at rpm it will just die like ecu shut off. has to cool down before it will restart.
Start by rechecking all your electrical connections to ensure it is all wired up correctly. A common error is the injector wiring. It is easy to miss wire the rear part of the injector harness. It will make the car run like crap and idle poorly
when its running it runs pretty good has a little vibration at idle and about 2700 rpm. i triple checked injector wiring. still has fuel pressure in line when it dies. i will check spark but when it dies it is the same as turning off key.
yes. when i started cranking rear leading coil had no spark for about 2 seconds then the timing light would flash steady after it started then would skip a flash here and there
Don't trust the vacuum reading in torque. It was showing about 5 psi of boost at highway speed on my stock motor. Then i got to thinking and realized I'd never seen a MAP sensor during my rebuild. Turns out there is no sensor and torque is just guessing at the boost/vac values.
Now, after I rebuilt my engine it too would run for a few minutes and just die like someone turned the key. After verifying my fuel pump wasn't overheating etc, finally I had to just drive it. Fired it up cold, dove in circles for about an hour at 3000-4000 rpm, and that's what it finally took. After that it was fine. Holding it at 3k in neutral didn't work but having the car actually in motion did. Just don't stop and don't put it in neutral.
And fwiw there's no actual sensor to read vacuum, it's inferred, badly I might add. Torque shows about 2psi of boost at cruising speed and up to 10 on throttle.
In the stock location the barometric sensor mounts on the air pump bracket. In the RX-8 it is a barometric sensor but the sensor itself is a common MAP sensor used in many cars.