One-time, extended cold start?
01-29-2017, 07:28 PM
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One-time, extended cold start?
As the title states I left my car outside tonight for a few hours and when I got back in, the gauge was definitely fully cold. When I went to fire it up, I was surprised at how long it took (about 3 seconds) opposed to the immediate fire up. I have a 04 with 11k miles, new plugs / wires / coils.
The only thing I changed recently was the intake. I installed the AEM intake the other day, and the car was driving excellent and pulling hard. Today I played around with it and cleaned my MAF, straightened the screened couplers, etc. During yesterdays install I unplugged the battery and reconnected it. I proceeded to reset the NVram and do the 20 stomp reset. I had no issues earlier today.
On the way home, after the longer than usual start, it drove fine. No lights, pulled fine, etc. I even stopped right before my house to give it a hot start test - fired right up as it always does. Any idea what would cause this, especially on a cold start? I figure my starter is still healthy, so perhaps the PCM reset / AEM intake install could've affected it? I did fill up with new gas today too but it's 93 oct. Thoughts?
The only thing I changed recently was the intake. I installed the AEM intake the other day, and the car was driving excellent and pulling hard. Today I played around with it and cleaned my MAF, straightened the screened couplers, etc. During yesterdays install I unplugged the battery and reconnected it. I proceeded to reset the NVram and do the 20 stomp reset. I had no issues earlier today.
On the way home, after the longer than usual start, it drove fine. No lights, pulled fine, etc. I even stopped right before my house to give it a hot start test - fired right up as it always does. Any idea what would cause this, especially on a cold start? I figure my starter is still healthy, so perhaps the PCM reset / AEM intake install could've affected it? I did fill up with new gas today too but it's 93 oct. Thoughts?
01-29-2017, 08:11 PM
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Just wanted to add - the only other thing I played w today was the alternator tensioner screw - I tightened it just a wee bit. Not sure if this would effect it, but either way I loosened it back to where it was.
Battery was replaced when I bought the car 2.5 months ago. I'm hoping it was just a basic PCM relearning experience thing and not something else -__-
Battery was replaced when I bought the car 2.5 months ago. I'm hoping it was just a basic PCM relearning experience thing and not something else -__-
01-30-2017, 09:27 AM
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Lol, I think you're right. It fired up fine this morning. I guess I need to get used to these kinds of things after I install something and let the computer reset. The first time I did the battery disconnect reset, I let it idle for like 25min after - no issues. This time I did the same thing, and let it idle for around 15min (I also accidentally left the headlights on during this process, which they recommend not to do) . Drove it, seemed fine. Pulled great. On the way to work this morning the idle fluctuated a little at one point, but many said it takes a few drive cycles for it to relearn. O well
01-31-2017, 02:22 PM
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After I first installed the intake the car drove great, esp. at high rpms. It screams and pulls hard. On the way back I noticed that when going up a hill in a higher gear and at low rpm I would get a "sputter" effect. Almost like quick mini backfires like pftpftpftpftpft you hear in the exhaust. No CEL, no codes, and never experienced before. Def a MAF / AEM intake screen issue.
Right now the idle is pretty steady; every now and then it'll do a little dip but other than that there's been no stalling, etc. Car starts up immediately again, etc., drives fine, pulls fine, but like I said every now and then I'll be at lower RPMS (and on a hill) and notice the sputter. Like trying to pee after sex or drinking a lot. I will reset it again and see what happens.
02-01-2017, 07:40 AM
#7
40th anniversary Edition
Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure