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New parts! Question about the coils

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Old Jul 4, 2018 | 07:49 PM
  #26  
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Ok, thanks for the info.
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Old Jul 5, 2018 | 10:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by UnknownJinX
As far as a stock RX-8 is concerned, they are as good as the D5a 85 coils.

If you want to be more technical, D585 coils do make a more energetic spark, but that spark lasts shorter. The stock coils make a weaker spark but that spark lasts longer. 1GN seems to be somewhere between

You need to change the dwell setting to fully bring out the potential power of any aftermarket coils.
So how much extra power would I be looking at if I took my 8 to a tuner and got the dwell adjusted? I know 230bhp is bullshit to begin with and its actually more like 200 just about. Oh and I bought the polish coil bracket in the end. I'll just put it on credit.
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Old Jul 5, 2018 | 10:18 PM
  #28  
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From: BALLS DEEP
it wont yield any power gains if your coils plugs and wires are good, maybe 1-2hp but doubtful. if your ignition is shot ive seen 10-12hp difference on the dyno with new stock ignition
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Old Jul 6, 2018 | 12:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Surasonac
So how much extra power would I be looking at if I took my 8 to a tuner and got the dwell adjusted? I know 230bhp is bullshit to begin with and its actually more like 200 just about. Oh and I bought the polish coil bracket in the end. I'll just put it on credit.
232 BHP is about right for a stock, completely healthy 8. I mean, stock S2ks usually get around 180~200 WHP on the dyno, just like a healthy 8.

And even with a tune, you can't get that much more power out of the car without going forced induction. You can get maybe 10 more HP and that's it.
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Old Jul 6, 2018 | 01:32 AM
  #30  
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From: BALLS DEEP
232 whp is unlikely even with a healthy stock 8
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Old Jul 6, 2018 | 07:18 AM
  #31  
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200whp, which is not unheard of on a mint engine, plus 15% drivetrain loss puts you right around 230bhp.
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Old Jul 6, 2018 | 09:27 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Loki
200whp, which is not unheard of on a mint engine, plus 15% drivetrain loss puts you right around 230bhp.
Oh, I was misinformed then. I consider my engine to be in a decent condition. It never hesitates, starts cold and hot and no white smoke comes out the exhaust. Since I bought it i've been premixing. Once I get my new coils, plugs and wires I'm hoping I gain a bit of horsepower back since I don't think its ever had an ignition system change. Maybe i'll be making 200+ horsepower with any luck.
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Old Jul 7, 2018 | 08:29 AM
  #33  
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You can't know how healthy your engine is without having it compression tested or dyno'd. <--- Fact thataway


A healthy engine puts down right at 200HP at the wheels. The typical range is ~175 to ~205. Cars with the usual bolt-ons tend to cluster near the lower end of the range, IIRC, much to the consternation of their owners. I recently saw a car that cold be described just like yours (doesn't smoke, starts cold and hot, idles well) put down a very disappointing 170 on a DynoJet. That car might have even barely passed a compression test.


.

Last edited by Steve Dallas; Jul 7, 2018 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Jul 7, 2018 | 10:22 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
You can't know how healthy your engine is without having it compression tested or dyno'd. <--- Fact thataway


A healthy engine puts down right at 200HP at the wheels. The typical range is ~175 to ~205. Cars with the typical bolt-ons tend to cluster near the lower end of the range, IIRC. I recently saw a car that cold be described just like yours (doesn't smoke, starts cold and hot, idles well) put down a very disappointing 170 on a DynoJet. That car might have even barely passed a compression test.
I see. I'm not gonna compression test or dyno my car, its not nessesary to get done. But the butt dyno says its pretty quick Maybe ill do it some day.
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Old Jul 7, 2018 | 11:40 PM
  #35  
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Dyno's vary quite a lot from unit to unit. Even from the same manufacturer. They are considered to be a relative measuring tool.

One concept that is hard for most enthusiest's to understand is that all IC engine's cylinder pressure vary with it's speed. This is the reason to adjust the compression pressure for the rpm that it is checked at. The difficult part is what the effect of speed has on the result. 200 to 300rpm might mean X and 200 to 4k or 9k might have a substantially different result. Almost always the difference at higher speeds is much smaller. Eg. If an engine is down by 10% @ 200rpm it might only be down by 1% at 9krpm.
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