Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

You can call any Mazda dealer and they can run your VIN to determine if a REMAN engine was installed at some point (If it was done under warranty). They should have that info in the database.

archwisp

iTrader: (1)

This could be due to flooding that was caused by trying to crank it with a mostly dead battery. Don't sweat it too much.

Onlyoneromeo

I vote for fuel pump and dirty maf sensor

Onlyoneromeo

you should have looked under the car for a clogged cat as well. See if u can get it started again and take it around the block and look underneath for a glowing cat.

Joe Elsleger

There is no CAT. It's been cut out and had a midpipe put in..nor have I seen any symptoms of clogged emissions. Also, I looked under the car just moments after stopping in the parking lot from the passenger side, mainly to make sure my oil pan plug was still there which it was (because I just changed the oil 2 hrs before leaving to get her) I didn't see anything glowing.
only other thing I can throw out is that I did notice at some points when I was parked or stopped the idle would sometimes bog down a bit to about 500 RPMs for a moment or two then go back to normal over the last past so many days before last night and it did it whether the heater was on or not. If I recall correctly, that's what happened last time just before the L1 ignition coil went except when that happened my battery didn't seem dead or could it possibly seem that way if 2 or 3 ignition coils and or plugs went?
I did also notice starting about a week ago not long after leaving the house when the car would go to shift from 3rd to 4th, instead of sounding low during the shift it actually reved a bit high tho my foot was steady on the gas.
now that I'm thinking about it, a few days ago when I was taking my gf to work we were going up a slight climb and applied just a little more gas so it held the same gear but when it reved up a bit it didn't quite sound normal. I now remember her asking me why it sounded it that way (which could've been a blown T lead?) But wasn't too far off from how it normally sounded so I didn't think much of it besides it was still warming up in a sense since we just left the house a few mins before that and yes I let it reach operating temp always before pulling out the driveway. Thank you all for insight and opinions and I'll be looking into all possibilities and will keep you all updated with my findings and progress.
I'll be looking under the hood tomorrow so I'll be sure to check MAF, coils, intake, and check fluid levels again though there was no signs of it running it hot. I'll also check into the battery, alternator and I know the plugs definitely need changed anyhow as I put almost 30k on them now.

Joe Elsleger

Ok I just got the car home. I'm going to take a look at some things now. I did try and crank it before loading it on the trailor. It cranked slow and I heard a small pop probably from a misfire.

Joe Elsleger

*UPDATE*
i checked the MAF it's clean

Also, the battery doesn't seem dead. Its cranking on the slow side and it's not starting now..I'm getting backfires or misfires and I can smell gas out the tail pipe. I did the deflood steps but still just getting backfire or misfire.
Any ideas??

UnknownJinX

So ignition components would be up next.

BTW, if you crank multiple times with your battery, you need to recharge it somehow. It could be damaged if you crank many times and the car doesn't start.

Lastly, unless you have a very special carbureted RX-8, you achieve nothing by letting the car idle to warm other than wasting gas. Start the car, wait for 15~30 seconds, put it in D and drive off gently. As long as you don't horse it when it's cold, there is no harm being done.

Joe Elsleger

Ok, I had the coils checked. One was completely dead and another was weak. The other 2 are ok.

The one that was dead was the L on the rear rotor and the weak was the T on the rear rotor.

So with that find, would that infact be why the car will not start and is backfiring? Thank you.

Also, I have a trickle charger and jump start box. The battery is on trickle right now. I'm just hoping I didn't damage anything in the motor that night I started it and had it running on one rotor

Besides that, it's look like I need 2 or maybe 3 coils and new wires and new plugs and hopefully that'll do it.

Thank you all again.

strokercharged95gt

Without a leading plug firing the car will make very little power because you trailing will be firing too retarded in the ignition/engine cycle.

A misfiring trailing coil will not be very noticeable (if all) if the leading is firing normally.

If the leading plug/coil is not firing and the trailing plug/coil is not firing well, then that rotor will be dead weight.

You can swap the good coils into the leading position on each of the rotors to see if that makes everything mostly better. If it does, then just buy two new coils and put them in the trailing position (to replace dead coils).....

I have literally been through about a dozen D585 coils on my car in the last few years so I have experienced it all....

Joe Elsleger

Ok, I'm testing all the harness plugs tomorrow morning and if all are good I'll try that and see what happens. Thank you.
also, will the popping and backfiring harm the engine?...I'm a bit concerned about that.

Also, one of my Plugs were broke at the bend on The L1 coil plugin..so I need new plugs or least one for sure I think before I test the good coils in the L positions.