RxEric

Okay got so this is what im working with for the air box

RxEric

This is the ssv "gold silver" thing youre talking bout?

RxEric

Just me or does that not look seated well ? ( was like that when i got her)

RxEric

Update update update I cleaned the throttle body and cranked it for 7 seconds and no start so i prayed to the rx8 god in the huge drift track in the sky and to my amazement she turned on after 4 seconds of cranking and she idled !!!! It was jumpy as she leveled gradually reached 800 held there for a few then got jumpy again once fully warm i went to test drive her ( shes parked on a hill ) I reversed her pretty smoothly then i got too excited stalled in first gear so sad right ? and i tried cranking her twice ( 8 seconds each with 45 seconds pause in between) and no luck so i just rolled back into the old spot and left her there all I really want is for her to run well enough for me to get somewhere for a compression test ten face my fate

ECS

Your belt is not seated properly.

RxEric

Okay and how do i go about re seating it i dont wanna have to take off my whole eccentric shaft

ECS

Loosen the 17mm nut on the tensioner pulley.
Turn the adjuster bolt counter (12mm?) clockwise till you can get the belt back on.
Tighten the belt with the adjuster bolt.
Tighten the 17mm nut.

RxEric

Yea but dont they got specific torque specs is what i really wanted to know tbh

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

We were all noobs here once, and the members here are a lot more patient than they used to be, but, you really need to try searching for answers.

They are not hard to find.
Took me a couple of minutes to find it doing a Google search for "Rx8 Club belt torque specs".

RxEric

Lol i mean if someone was willing to give me info id kinda hope they would give me all the info feel me and from reading to these other forums i was prepared for the noob bashing tbh lol doesnt bother me none its a part of the hunt for knowledge but thanks to everyone for all your support in my journey im still working on all my solutions il update my findings as i go

RxEric

Btw guys i tested my coils ( was already gunna change them anyway but tested them to see if i wasted my money or not) my results were 1 function coil for the leading plug in chamber one the trailing coil was faulty from ports a/c= 3.6 a/b= 8.9 kiliohms c/a= OL
Leading coil chamber 2 a/c= 2.9 a/b=11.1 c/a= OL
Trailing coil 2 a/c= 4.1 a/b=7 kiliohms c/a= OL

Didnt test the wires cause I bought new ones anyway so **** it

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Testing the coils with a meter is hit and miss....works better to get a HEI spark tester that makes a large gap to jump. That is more accurate. Although if the coils flat put fail a metered check it is obvious. Replace the coils and plugs and wires and let us know if it idles better. I'm Sure it will

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

I'm not bashing you.
If you make an effort to search for answers to basic questions, you'll get more help when you're really stuck.
Otherwise, members tend to ignore new guys who ask a lot of basic questions.

RxEric

Question i was playing with that ssv ( with out uninstalling or unplugging the vacuum lines and the car was off and cold ) and she moved but like i had to give her a little force isnt she supposed to move freely when off? ... Idle problem? Should i have taken the vacuum line on the actuator off ? Time for cleaning / replacing?

RxEric

Update on my idle progress sorry for all the talking made a quick video before school when i get out il make a video with the cover off any questions il make some videos to show where i stand and you can make your assumptions and il run with them

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The actuator has quite a bit of resistance. If you can turn it you should be good. If you have a vac pump you can use that to activate the valve. Just hook it to the Vac nipple on the hat and pull a vac on it...and the valve should open. I think there are specs in the FSM for the amount of vac that it should take

I would look elsewhere for the idle isue first.

Did you change out the coils yet?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Something you could try if you have an OBDII scanner, monitor the STFT and LTFT fuel trims while the car idles, especially when it drops idle. If you have a vacuum leak, the trims will be way off. From that video and from seeing your intake, that's possibility.

In fact... how is the cone filter even attached to the intake? There is no tube to clamp to inside of the intake you already have, which means it was modified or there is unfiltered air getting in... either of which could mess with the MAF sensor and make for a wonky idle.

RxEric

I go to lincoln tech in new jersey and recently she just hasnt been in conditions for me to drive her there to throw the scan tool on her but now that she idles il be doing it soon and as for the airbox il be honest that **** says mazda speed im assuming he just grabbed a mazda 3 cone filter and slapped a rubber boot to the end and clamped her in cause shes came apart before (the filter) had to put her back together and re install but she seemed and drove fine until recently

RxEric

Gunna try a seafoam treatment to loosen up all the gunk in the ssv and apv ( if any ) and hopefully she runs a littttllllleee better and gets me to school to strap her to the scan tool and get her checked out fully but that funky noise you hear sounds like its coming from around the center back of the engine bay in under and/or around the plastic intake manifold il make another video get closer today after class

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The noise is pretty normal, don't worry about that.

RxEric

You watched the video right? Cause that noise bothers me tbh lol makes me feel either shes getting too much air or not enough btw which seafoam do you recommend out of these two

RxEric

Btw sounds dumb but whats the STFT and LTFT

ECS

You really need to do some reading in the new owners threads to figure some this stuff out on your own. Members's on this site will start to bash you shortly for a lack of effort on your part.

RxEric

Hey im asking cause it wont just benefit me but those who have my same problem and want more information not my fault mazda chose to take everything a piston has and just change the acronyms so in a sense im doing right ... Plus if someone is gunna give you info vagueness doesn't do anything but bring confusion into the mix

ECS

Short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim relate to both rotary and piston engines alike. Not something Mazda just made up. They are both important measurements used in diagnosing engine driveability.